Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Gordon Gould]

^^^^^ Thanks for the explanation and pics. Long as it works for you is all that matters.

gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

You do have a fair amount of slop there. It's hard to tell if that would be enough for some of the places I go ??

gg

 

[WinterDeere]

You do have a fair amount of slop there. It's hard to tell if that would be enough for some of the places I go ??

gg

Your solution definitely provides for more extreme travel. I'm guessing mine probably handles 99% of all needs, but you're in the 1%'er class.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Your solution definitely provides for more extreme travel. I'm guessing mine probably handles 99% of all needs, but you're in the 1%'er class.

That's me - down at the 1% level

gg

 

[John_Mc]

Moved more wood up to the house this morning, so grabbed a photo of the wagon hitch for Gordon and anyone looking at these wagons.

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Uppy-downy is achieved by hinge back at wagon, shown below. Side roll by looseness of small pin in large tongue hole, and wide spacing of tangs on drawbar.

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I just could not get away with that type of hitch for my forwarding trailer. It does not have a hinge on the tongue, but even if it did, that would not prevent the binding I was getting as I drove through ditches or waterbars. When the tongue is pointing down to the bottom of the ditch, but the tractor is climbing up out the other side, the pin gets in a bind. There is enough force that it was damaging hitch on the trailer tongue. when I was pulling it using a receiver insert, as you show in your first picture, I actually had problems with bending the tongue of that insert.

 

[WinterDeere]

You're probably right. But if your terrain is that bad, then the hitch probably wouldn't be your biggest problem, with this trailer.

It's a ladder frame design, not apt to handle maximum loading with one wheel off the ground, etc. This thing is made for fields, lawns, etc. Not perfectly flat ground, it handles my rolling hills and lumpy areas just fine, but not anything anywhere near as extreme as you're describing.

 

[ning]

I cut a good fir today that didn't have any well developed stump rot. One of very few I have found in a couple decades of cutting them. I don't know why I get excited about this stuff. Anyway, it had a good lean to the the left but there was good holding wood anchored in the root buttress on the right.


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The hold wood did it's job and the tree fell per plan.


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Got it limbed out


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I decided to pull it out in two pieces. And cut it where the crook was and at the top of usable wood (6" dia).


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When I got up to the road I considered using the power pole for a bumper and skidding the logs down the road side 200' to the left to my log pile. But good judgement got the best of me and I made up the saw logs (a 14' and two 12's) right there.


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Then grappled them down to the pile.


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gg

Would you mind explaining the way you cut the fir? I'm referring to what looks to me like a plunge cut from the middle of the face cut through the hinge.

Thanks!

 

[Gordon Gould]

Would you mind explaining the way you cut the fir? I'm referring to what looks to me like a plunge cut from the middle of the face cut through the hinge.

Thanks!

It's a method I use a lot. I use wedges for directional felling. Most of the fir I cut are not large so getting a wedge into the backcut before the tree can tip back is iffy. Also the butt wood is of questionable integrity because of but rot. So I like to get a wedge in right off. I make the face cuts to form the notch then bore straight back so the bar exits the back of the tree. It gives me a place to set a wedge and allows me to feel what the wood is like. I set the wedge then cut the two sides.

Here is a 10 minute video where I used that method if you would like to see.

gg

 

[Runner]

It's a method I use a lot. I use wedges for directional felling. Most of the fir I cut are not large so getting a wedge into the backcut before the tree can tip back is iffy. Also the butt wood is of questionable integrity because of but rot. So I like to get a wedge in right off. I make the face cuts to form the notch then bore straight back so the bar exits the back of the tree. It gives me a place to set a wedge and allows me to feel what the wood is like. I set the wedge then cut the two sides.

View attachment 2088134


Here is a 10 minute video where I used that method if you would like to see.

gg

I have noticed that this gentleman uses the same techniques as you. He will often make his back cut starting from one side, put in some wedges, then do the other side. Also does the plunge cut in notch from time to time.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I like the method. It is especially useful to me on smaller trees because there is a clear path for the wedge. It won't bottom out on the hinge. Try it on a 6,7, or 8 inch tree someday and see. On big trees when the cutter makes a bore cut from the front he is often trying to cut out the center wood before the tree goes over to prevent fiber pull which would reduce the value of a good log.

gg