What angle for weld-on Euro hooks?

[BCLoco]

I'm going to be making the switch to Euro hook ends on my 3ph lift arms. Question I have for those who currently use these, or do this conversion, is at what vertical angle should they be welded to the arm?

I'm removing my telescoping link ends and replacing them with a piece of 1" x 3" flat bar with a Euro hook welded on the end. I was just going to do a square connection from the end of the flat bar to the factory bevel on the Euro hook, but then I saw this guy's video and he cut the flat bar at an angle so the hook is more or less level at typical implement attaching height. Actually, I think he went too aggressive on the angle and the hook is pointed up slightly when the arms are lowered to that height.

I've never used these hooks before. Looking at other pics on the interwebs, it seems like the angle varies quite a lot with some arms looking like the hook is welded square to the arm like I originally intended. If I don't have to add another angle to the equation, I would really rather not.

 

[ptsg]

I would weld them with the same angle it comes with. They were designed to be welded on without angling up or down.

A bit hard too see but here are the ones in my tractor. It comes factory with them.

 

[jyoutz]

I'm going to be making the switch to Euro hook ends on my 3ph lift arms. Question I have for those who currently use these, or do this conversion, is at what vertical angle should they be welded to the arm?

I'm removing my telescoping link ends and replacing them with a piece of 1" x 3" flat bar with a Euro hook welded on the end. I was just going to do a square connection from the end of the flat bar to the factory bevel on the Euro hook, but then I saw this guy's video and he cut the flat bar at an angle so the hook is more or less level at typical implement attaching height. Actually, I think he went too aggressive on the angle and the hook is pointed up slightly when the arms are lowered to that height.

I've never used these hooks before. Looking at other pics on the interwebs, it seems like the angle varies quite a lot with some arms looking like the hook is welded square to the arm like I originally intended. If I don't have to add another angle to the equation, I would really rather not.

Wow, are you sure that you want to remove the fantastic telescoping function? Can you install these and still retain the telescoping functions? I find that feature to be far more beneficial than the pin attachment mechanism.

 

[BCLoco]

I would weld them with the same angle it comes with. They were designed to be welded on without angling up or down.

A bit hard too see but here are the ones in my tractor. It comes factory with them.

View attachment 2166472

No, that is actually a great picture. Thanks for sharing that. I see that yours is one of the ones that the arm is cut square, and that angle looks fine to me. The implement with the lowest bottom pins is my old box blade, and they're probably at least 4 inches higher than the height of your arms in the picture.

After watching that video, I realized that I do need to make sure the load is going to be pulling into the hook and not against the retaining bar.

 

[ptsg]

Found some more pictures. Hopefully it helps or gives a couple more ideas.

 

[BCLoco]

Wow, are you sure that you want to remove the fantastic telescoping function? Can you install these and still retain the telescoping functions? I find that feature to be far more beneficial than the pin attachment mechanism.

The telescoping function isn't necessary with the hooks. From everything I've seen they're pretty self-aligning to start with, but if your alignment is off more than a bit you just use the hook to nudge the implement back or drag it ahead a little.

I don't think it's worth the expense of having the flat bar slotted, plus it will weaken it a little. I just plan on using mild steel, so it won't have quite the same strength as the forged piece it's replacing.

 

[BCLoco]

Found some more pictures. Hopefully it helps or gives a couple more ideas.

View attachment 2172559

View attachment 2172560

Those are great pics. And you don't use any bushing or spacer with the ball? This system is incredible.

The more I learn about it, the more I don't understand why pin-and-eye is still the dominant system in North America.

 

[jyoutz]

The telescoping function isn't necessary with the hooks. From everything I've seen they're pretty self-aligning to start with, but if your alignment is off more than a bit you just use the hook to nudge the implement back or drag it ahead a little.

I don't think it's worth the expense of having the flat bar slotted, plus it will weaken it a little. I just plan on using mild steel, so it won't have quite the same strength as the forged piece it's replacing.

After having Pat’s hitch for many years, I can say that I value the telescoping function more than the hooks. Having them both would be perfect.

 

[ptsg]

Those are great pics. And you don't use any bushing or spacer with the ball? This system is incredible.

The more I learn about it, the more I don't understand why pin-and-eye is still the dominant system in North America.

Nothing at all. Just the ball. Mine uses 45 mm balls, being Cat 1, the hole is 7/8" if I recall correctly. This is truly a great system. More and more tractor manufacturers have been offering these as standard here in Europe.

My tractor came with a set of balls. I've since machined 2 more sets so I wouldn't have to move the balls around. They can just stay in the implements. I'm still one set short though but that's for an implement I rarely use.

Using my homemade ball turning attachment here.

 

[BCLoco]

After having Pat’s hitch for many years, I can say that I value the telescoping function more than the hooks. Having them both would be perfect.

That's the benefit of connecting to balls rather than pins. This system can accommodate a wider range of angles. From everything I've seen, it renders the telescoping function moot.