Brush Grubber

   / Brush Grubber #71  
Brush grubber
I have one of the barbed chain style
1742218975461.png
It works great! However, as others have posted, it is labor intensive - every pull requires an off-tractor set up. But it is effective! Only put a clevis in your towbar off the back of the tractor and chain to that. OP had mentioned drawbar and, if by that the bar across between the3pt hitch arms, that will not likely withstand the pull forces.

And related to that statement, if anyone has use for a drawbar shaped like a shallow letter C, let me know!:rolleyes:
 
   / Brush Grubber #72  
OP had mentioned drawbar and, if by that the bar across between the3pt hitch arms, that will not likely withstand the pull forces.

And related to that statement, if anyone has use for a drawbar shaped like a shallow letter C, let me know!:rolleyes:
I'm sure the OP was talking about the REAL drawbar, the strong bottom one meant for pulling.
 
   / Brush Grubber
  • Thread Starter
#73  
When I refer to the 'drawbar', I'm referring to the one below the PTO stub that is securely connected to the tractor frame. Don't even know what the one between the lift arms is and I'd never want one anyway.

Two attachment points I NEVER pull with is, either of the lift arms on the back or any attachment point on a front loader. I only pull with the drawbar as that is what it's meant for.
 
   / Brush Grubber
  • Thread Starter
#75  
I tried the BG a few years ago.
I was always fighting the clevis and the chain hook keeping it connected, so stopped using it.
I went back to my 14ft 3/8" chain that is hammer-loked into a circle.
I sling the chain around the base(twice on smaller stuff), pull it through the circle and pull.
It just seems to go faster when I'm by myself that way.
Though I have not used it yet (weather has not been conducive), my plan is to out a clevis on the drawbar and use a grade 70 chain with hooks on each end, but safety wire the hooks to the chain so they don't come unhooked.
 
   / Brush Grubber
  • Thread Starter
#76  
Somebody tell me why a stump bucket wouldn’t
be the more efficient tool here
The Brush Grubber costs substantially less for starters and I have no need for another implement I would not use much.
 
   / Brush Grubber #77  
IMG_2621.jpeg

Danuser Intimdator. Pull, pile, transport and repeat. No getting off tractor. Great for evasives like privet, multiflora and Russian olive. Pushing trees away from cab versus pulling toward cab with chain.
 
   / Brush Grubber #79  
Somebody tell me why a stump bucket wouldn’t
be the more efficient tool here
Maybe there isn't enough room to get the tractor in the area and you don't want to disturb surrounding trees?
 
   / Brush Grubber #80  
Seems as though I have a ton of weed tree saplings that are too small for the chainsaw but large enough to yank out so I ordered the 'Brush grubber.. Anyone use one? Do they hold up? Gonna use it behind one of my M9's on the drawbar to yank them out. Got the 'heavy duty' model. Is it heavy duty enough for my 8K pound, 90 horse FWA Kubota or will I destroy it?
I got the medium duty one from Northern Tool to use with my 33 hp Case. Its not so much the machine as it is how hard the sapling wants to stay put. I've been able to yank some that were 2"- 3" diameter with no issues - the thing works great though!
 
 

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