How Hard to De-Green a Kubota MX5200?

[CloverKnollFarms]

Given that the emissions stuff can cost thousands to repair, how do you check a used tractor to see if it's going to fail soon? Running it for 200 hours to check is not practical, so what do you do?

You don't. That's a risk

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

Glad I asked.

 

[Torvy]

If you're mechanically inclined, the pre-emissions tractors are said to be easy to fix. I can't verify that because I'm not.

The only way I buy used on something mechanical is if I really know and trust the seller. Sometimes with cars you can use your mechanic to check it out. I guess if you have an independent or small dealer, they may be willing to do that. We have one here.

 

[scootr]

Buy low hour machines that have grease in all the fittings and show no sign of abuse.

 

[Midniteoyl]

I also was apprehensive about the DPF, but as I said above, I up my RPMs to a 1200-1400 'idle' and use the 'Linked Pedal' from there that raises the RPMs to whatever is needed when I press the Go Pedal with my foot, unless I'm mowing/hogging, obviously..

I use the loader with forks and grapple *a lot* and this method has been working since I bought it in 2020, with my first regen at ~70hrs and then every 70-90 hrs after that. All but 2 have been when I was using the tractor and never even noticed that it was regen'ing except for the light being on. The 2 I did notice were because I was parking it while it was still going. No big deal at all..

 

[5030]

DPF = Dummy's poor filter...lol Don't ever expect to get a deal on a pre 4 tractor as they are selling for top buck today.

My dealer told me that both of mine are worth at least what I paid for them new.

 

[deserteagle71]

How high do you keep your RPM's in normal use?

Normal use for me means that there is a piece of equipment on the 3 point hitch and connected to the PTO. And to get 540 rpm at the implement I have to run the engine at just over 1800 rpm. The hydraulic system (front loader, 3 point hitch, remotes, even the steering) is also happier at higher rpms.

Running higher rpm on the emissions equipped machines doesn't mean you can't ever let it idle. Having the engine at idle for a few minutes while you are hooking up a piece of equipment, or doing something else, is no problem. Just don't let the tractor run at idle for an hour or more at a time. That lets the exhaust system cool way down and soot builds up quickly, causing buildup in the DPF and early regenerations.

 

[deserteagle71]

Given that the emissions stuff can cost thousands to repair, how do you check a used tractor to see if it's going to fail soon? Running it for 200 hours to check is not practical, so what do you do?

No way I know of. But then, if these systems were failing all the time you'd see posts complaining about it on the tractor forums. Do a search and see how many you can find. No moving parts to go bad in the emissions system. The DPF system works by injecting extra diesel into the exhaust which gets it really hot and burns off the soot to clean out the DPF. That's all it is. As long as they are operated per instructions in the owners manual they will last thousands of hours.

 

[jyoutz]

I haven't noticed myself getting a faceful of soot with my current diesels, but then I sit in the seat while I use them instead of climbing underneath and putting my face next to the exhaust pipes.

So far, I have not had to deal with any of this unneeded equipment. Do people really have to sit around and do nothing while their tractors eat their own waste? That has to be a drag. Like charging a Tesla.

The whole "limp mode" business scares me. A buddy of mine has a worthless Mercedes that went into limp mode over and over for something like three years, and no mechanic could figure it out. I don't recall who finally fixed it.

It would be neat to find a pre-BS tractor, but it turns out other people were smart enough to hold onto theirs or buy them from other people as soon as they came up for sale. They are not easily found.

I'm one of the people who held on. My tractor is 25 years old, and if it had 45 or more PTO horsepower and a decent loader capacity, I would never replace it. It's kind of remarkable that Kubota thought 1500 pounds was enough for a loader. A less-powerful TYM lifts 45% more. Big difference when your main use for the tractor is moving logs.

My feeling about buying tractors with expensive, unnecessary gadgetry is like my feeling about buying used German cars. No matter how cheap they seem up front, they could be sources of huge regret when repairs are needed. And German cars and tractors often need repairs. If someone gave me a BMW for nothing, I'd sell it ASAP and buy a Toyota.

Nobody sits around during a regeneration. Just up the RPMs and keep working. In fifteen minutes it’s over. Never experienced limp modes and the other MX owners here are saying the same things.

 

[Suburban Plowboy]

DPF = Dummy's poor filter...lol Don't ever expect to get a deal on a pre 4 tractor as they are selling for top buck today.

My dealer told me that both of mine are worth at least what I paid for them new.

If DPF is so trouble-free, how come pre-emissions tractors cost so much?