Dust Boots on Tie-rod ball joints

[RayIN]

Something happened today I've never experienced. I was brush-hogging tall, thick Multi-Floral Rose bushes. When I stopped and returned the tractor the the garage, I used a leaf-blower to remove the pollen, leaves, dirt, and trash from my equipment. Then something shiny caught my eyes, it was both ball-joints. At first I though they were failing so I shook the tie-rod and it was solid.
Then I realized the thick brushy, thorned, bushes have torn off the rubber dust boots from the ball-joints.
I suspect this happened because I used the FEL bucket to push the stuff down and find hidden obstructions. I know replacement boots are sold, I just have to find where and the price.
I never did like replacing ball-joints, now I have 2 to remove and replace.

 

[5030]

Pull the cotter pin, back the nut off and leave it on but proud of the top of the thread's and give it a good tump with a 5 pound drilling hammer and it will pop right out.

 

[Tinhack]

I like to turn the castle nut over and whack the flat side.

 

[5030]

Good idea as well, not sonething I considered but I've never had to hit them more than once and not overly hard either.

 

[CalG]

Your not the first.

torn tie rod dust covers.

This past weekend i tore one of my tie rod end dust covers or boots as i call them. has anybody else torn one and has anyone come up with a guard for them. i am working on figureing out how to build some. the part to fix it only cost $5 bucks but it's the hassle of having to fix it. why kubota...

www.tractorbynet.com

They come in all sizes, I got some from "Energy -Suspension" but that was many years ago.

This search string on any engine will return way too many options. ;-)
"tie rod rubber caps"

 

[1Mech]

I never pound on the stud when removing a ball joint, unless I am replacing the ball joint. Don't want to distort the threads.
I always whack the side of the joint where the stud goes through, that usually will pop it loose after a few good whacks. I leave the nut on loosely in case I miss and hit the threads.

 

[not2old]

I never pound on the stud when removing a ball joint, unless I am replacing the ball joint. Don't want to distort the threads.
I always whack the side of the joint where the stud goes through, that usually will pop it loose after a few good whacks. I leave the nut on loosely in case I miss and hit the threads.

You can also buy a specialized puller to put some pressure on the stud when you hit the side. This can be necessary on the occasional stubborn one. The pullers can be obtained inexpensively.

 

[5030]

I never pound on the stud when removing a ball joint, unless I am replacing the ball joint. Don't want to distort the threads.
I always whack the side of the joint where the stud goes through, that usually will pop it loose after a few good whacks. I leave the nut on loosely in case I miss and hit the threads.

The taper on most tractor tie rod ends is short and yes, wacking the side of the casting also works but a sharp wack on the threaded end with the castle hut installed so as to not deform the threads. ALWAYS works.

Far as boots go, I also had that issue some years back and I replaced the boots with sections of bicycle innertube cut to the correct length and zip tied to the joints. Still intact and working years later and a cheap fix. Recently replaced the OEM no grease ends with new OEM greaseable joints.

 

[RayIN]

O'Relliys auto parts store has a huge on-line selection of dust boots. Now I have to go measure so I but the correct size.
I have a 3# brass hammer that will work fine.. I use it when I don't want to mushroom something; plus it's a deadblow action. I've had it for perhaps 50 years, couldn't afford a new one today.

Had I not still used the preventative maintenance taught me in the army, i might not have noticed the missing dust boots as soon as I finished with the tractor that day.
That reminds me, I gotta lube them with silicone before next use. That's what Reyco-Granning front suspension mfgr. recommends for their HDT front suspension sealed ball joints when the boot is compromised.

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

Great timing of your post. I just saw that my tractor has the boot split. Had no idea you could just replace the boots. I will get me two and do just that.

 

[nyone]

I never pound on the stud when removing a ball joint, unless I am replacing the ball joint. Don't want to distort the threads.
I always whack the side of the joint where the stud goes through, that usually will pop it loose after a few good whacks. I leave the nut on loosely in case I miss and hit the threads.

I do this too but pry the joint appart while hitting. Messed up way to many ball joints hitting the stud/castle nut..and 1 is to many. The other way is way less risky.

 

[rScotty]

You can also buy a specialized puller to put some pressure on the stud when you hit the side. This can be necessary on the occasional stubborn one. The pullers can be obtained inexpensively.

That's exactly what I use. A tie rod/pitman arm "puller" puts pressure on the taper joint and protects the threads as well as the joint at the far end. I still use a light hammer blow if necessary, but often it is not.

Puller kits sure have changed in price. When I had my shop, mechanics always brought thier tools along when they applied for a job - and rarely did any of them have their own pullers. Pullers were expensive "shop tools" and usually not privately owed. The same went for floor jacks, transmission stands...etc.

Now I see complete puller and seal tool sets selling for under $100. Thereis simply no reason not to use them. BTW, noone has mentioned the ball joint "pickle fork". I don't think mine has left the bottom drawer of our roll around tool box in years. Someday some young mechanic will wonder what it was used for.
rScotty

 

[not2old]

I only use the pickle fork if the tie rod end is shot and will be thrown away. I didn't know you could buy replacement boots. They weren't available when I was an automotive parts sales rep in the 1980's.

 

[rScotty]

I only use the pickle fork if the tie rod end is shot and will be thrown away. I didn't know you could buy replacement boots. They weren't available when I was an automotive parts sales rep in the 1980's.

I guess it is possible to damage a ball joint with a pickle fork - but a person would have to work at it. Basically all we are doing with any of the ball joint removal tools is releasing a taper. The taper is then cleaned up and the new ball joint self-centers as it is installed.

In the 1960s, mom used to sew up our replacement ball joint boots out of old glove leather - there are lots of those around any farm. My favorites were the ones that had a zipper in them.
rScotty

 

[not2old]

I guess it is possible to damage a ball joint with a pickle fork - but a person would have to work at it. Basically all we are doing with any of the ball joint removal tools is releasing a taper. The taper is then cleaned up and the new ball joint self-centers as it is installed.






It wouldn't necessarily destroy the ball joint but you wouldn't have any chance of reusing the rubber boot.

 

[not2old]

Just look at how my reply looks and you will know why I hate computers.

 

[nyone]

Now I see complete puller and seal tool sets selling for under $100. Thereis simply no reason not to use them. BTW, noone has mentioned the ball joint "pickle fork".

Pickle forks rip boots..in this case it dosnt matter. But they can also damage ball joints. There are reasons why you wouldnt want to use a ball joint press/puller. For instance your not taking the wheel off.

 

[RayIN]

That's exactly what I use. A tie rod/pitman arm "puller" puts pressure on the taper joint and protects the threads as well as the joint at the far end. I still use a light hammer blow if necessary, but often it is not.

Puller kits sure have changed in price. When I had my shop, mechanics always brought thier tools along when they applied for a job - and rarely did any of them have their own pullers. Pullers were expensive "shop tools" and usually not privately owed. The same went for floor jacks, transmission stands...etc.

Now I see complete puller and seal tool sets selling for under $100. Thereis simply no reason not to use them. BTW, noone has mentioned the ball joint "pickle fork". I don't think mine has left the bottom drawer of our roll around tool box in years. Someday some young mechanic will wonder what it was used for.
rScotty

Yep, I'll use a gear puller I have, it has the capability of using 2, 3,or 4 jaws. Spartan motors( bus and MH chassis mfgr.) specifically states to never use a pickle fork on ball joints.

 

[CalG]

I back up the joint eye with a heavy hammer. a 12# maul works most times depending on space. With that "anvil" in place, the distortion caused by a blow or two from a shop hammer has always been enough to pop the taper. Banging on the threads has never left me with pleasing results. Let the taper pop it's self!

 

[rScotty]

I back up the joint eye with a heavy hammer. a 12# maul works most times depending on space. With that "anvil" in place, the distortion caused by a blow or two from a shop hammer has always been enough to pop the taper. Banging on the threads has never left me with pleasing results. Let the taper pop it's self!

Yes. The trick I learned was to back up the taper joint from the side with a heavy weight or sledge head so it won't move, and then make the joint eye ring with a sharp blow from the other side.....using a single quick smack from a light hard face hammer. The taper was momentarily distorted by "ringing the taper" like a bell. I would often try "ringing the eye" first ....once.... then if that didn't work, go get the puller and put a little lateral force on the ball pin. Then ring it again and chances were the joint would literally jump apart.

I can't imagine a mechanic ever beating directly on threaded surfaces....not twice anyway.

But this sort of trick of how to separate a taper - once a common skill in any mechanical shop - needs to be kept alive, and if a little discussion here helps, it seems worth the effort.