Hardie Board Siding?

[ponytug]

It would be a good solution, but decide whether you want planks or panels, and if panels, whether you want the 4x8/4x10 panels. If you go the plank route, I would recommend the accessories that hold the planks in place while nailing. They speed things up considerably.

James Hardie requires vapor barrier below it. If you do plywood, then vapor barrier, then panel, the barrier needs to be the type with a ridged or beaded surface that lets water drain down.

Try getting the Heat Zone 5 or 10 technical bulletin #19, and look at the accept ways of installation. (Check your location against their map for Heat Zone.)

There's a nice couple of Matt Resinger videos on YouTube on how to do them.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

The existing siding looks like tongue and groove. With the joint being horizontal, particular care needs to given to not allowing moisture to become trapped.

 

[ultrarunner]

It would be a good solution, but decide whether you want planks or panels, and if panels, whether you want the 4x8/4x10 panels. If you go the plank route, I would recommend the accessories that hold the planks in place while nailing. They speed things up considerably.

James Hardie requires vapor barrier below it. If you do plywood, then vapor barrier, then panel, the barrier needs to be the type with a ridged or beaded surface that lets water drain down.

Try getting the Heat Zone 5 or 10 technical bulletin #19, and look at the accept ways of installation. (Check your location against their map for Heat Zone.)

There's a nice couple of Matt Resinger videos on YouTube on how to do them.

All the best,

Peter

Thank You… location Tahoe.

 

[JJT]

I'd give paint one more try, unless you have a considerable amount of wood to replace. Good prep and two coats of quality paint should last for 10 years.

 

[ultrarunner]

The existing is 9 years old done after several days of hand scraping, feathering and prime with 89 square feet of boards replaced below kitchen window where the valley drains.

The other side not on the weather exposure side looks good… it’s just this side that gets all the exposure.

My grandparents farm has the entire wall on the exposure side covered with 12x12x24 tiles installed right after WWII and still good…

 

[2manyrocks]

I would put my time and energy into more durable siding instead of having to face this again in 5-10 years.

 

[Rustyiron]

^^^ That was asbestos and no more dangerous than hardy BUT back then they cut them with a guillotine type shear. Saw cutting requires the same precautions for inhalation.
LP "Smart Side" blows away Hardie's so called fibre "cement" siding.
The big players have moved to LP Smartside from hardy and their big book of excuses as far as them covering anything in their warranty.

 

[ultrarunner]

If I use tile I should be able to bring everything needed by car… which is good since the service truck is laid up.

 

[ultrarunner]

^^^ That was asbestos and no more dangerous than hardy BUT back then they cut them with a guillotine type shear. Saw cutting requires the same precautions for inhalation.
LP "Smart Side" blows away Hardie's so called fibre "cement" siding.
The big players have moved to LP Smartside from hardy and their big book of excuses as far as them covering anything in their warranty.

I bought a guillotine with nail hole punch years ago for $20 at an estate sale after just finishing a job… it’s been tucked away 35 years someplace and never had occasion to use.

 

[not2old]

Home Depot sells Hardie blades. They have a small one that's cheaper, and a 7 1/4 inch blade that's a lot more money. The big blade lasts forever, but it's impossible to cut straight with. I don't get it, but it's the biggest waste of money ever. I just buy the small blades now. I can do an entire house with a small bade if there isn't a lot of trim. I just use my 18volt Makita cordless saw to cut everything.


I wasn't aware of saw blades for this when I did the siding on my shop and used a guillotine to cut it, always putting the cut end where it would be covered by smartwood trim where possible. When cutting the pieces that butted up ,against the aluminum soffit on the gable ends, I clamped a piece of angle iron on the line as a guide and made the cut with an angle grinder and a thin metal cutting blade or a diamond blade, I don't remember which. The result was a perfectly straight cut that looked like a factory finish.