Hardie Board Siding?

[not2old]

Computers drive me crazy. My last post was supposed to show as a reply to Eddies comment. I have no idea what I did wrong.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’ve had a few glitches lately where entire posts vanished and TBN is asking me to log in and when I do TBN says so am already logged in…?

Appreciate the replies… if I just improve the “L” portion of the house siding where the worst of the problem is I will be happy.

There is a Home Depot and Lowe’s in Carson City and Meeks Building Supply in Tahoe… so different when Tahoe was isolated when the home was built 60+ years ago.

Meeks set me up when I did the roof with contractor pricing when I said I was going to self haul material from home…

Maybe the same deal can be made for siding?

 

[newbury]

I've used Hardie board panels and they have stood up very well to Virginia weather with 1 coat of latex pain for about 25 years.
I just use a mask when cutting panels with circular saw.
I just attached 15lb roofing felt to the studs then screwed hardie panels to the studs. No plywood base. This is a 10x15 shed.
/edit then painted it

 

[scott_vt]

Good Afternoon Ultrarunner,
I did the front side of my barn 3 years ago and went right over the T111. Like Eddie stated it is brittle but my walls are pretty flat. I did not use a vapor barrier, but as far as I can see it’s not an issue. Barn walls are 6” with insulation
Hope this helps !
I plan on doing the house and the rest of the barn when I eventually have time !

 

[Racer4]

I did a large house with both hardiboard lap siding and the 4x10 panels. All were pre-painted, which I think is the better way to go. The surface needs to be flat. Regular building wrap is ok to use for the lap siding, but for the sheets, self draining building wrap must be used. And that is expensive stuff.

I installed it with a siding nailer. The nails are skinnier than roofing nails, and they don’t damage the siding as much. I used strips of aluminum behind any butt joints. Cut edges need to be painted before installation, and hardi has a kit with applicator that makes it quick and easy. I used 5/4” pvc trim for all trim. It’s much easier to use and nail than the hardi trim. I used the hardi trim boards only for the board and batten sections over the 4x10 panels My trim nailer did not like driving nails through the batten strips.

I used the leftover material I had to do one wall of this cabin:

Unfortunately, I don’t have any pics of the house we did.

Well I found the house pics on my old android phone , but can’t share them with my new I phone.

 

[paulsharvey]

Just my opinion; so take that as you want...

Tyvek house rap over the existing; vertical 1x4 "nailers" every 16" on the studs; then hardi plank and trim; nailing (or screwing), only at the nailer. I would use an aggressive, 2.5" ring shank nail for my nailer board, (2x4 might be better), so we are sure we have are nailer into the studs. My worry is nailing hardi directly to the existing siding; we want our hardi tied back to the structure, not the veneer.

The other route; blast the siding and a Good epoxy paint System on the existing siding. Not some home depot primer and exterior paint; i do mean a proper epoxy paint system. This isn't 1970 anymore; and the world of coatings have come a long way. With that; the epoxy paints aren't cheap, and they have a specific methodology for applying that Does need to be followed. Some dont play well with others; some require a specific surface prep; ect

Edit: My worry with even the nailer method; I worry you will get a Wave kinda effect between nailers; and if we are going to do 2x4 nailers, and 1.5" foam or dense glass; we might as go down to studs and build back....

 

[LouNY]

^^^ That was asbestos and no more dangerous than hardy BUT back then they cut them with a guillotine type shear. Saw cutting requires the same precautions for inhalation.
LP "Smart Side" blows away Hardie's so called fibre "cement" siding.
The big players have moved to LP Smartside from hardy and their big book of excuses as far as them covering anything in their warranty.

Interesting take on Smartside comparing to Hardie.
I had several hundred square feet of Hardie Lap siding put up last year including all the 1x4 door and window trim, 1x6 Fasia and the soffit which involved cutting the panels to to a 20 inch width.
I had looked at the Smartside and decided I didn't want chip board with a thin coating. The Hardie was much more money and likely time as every cut was primed and painted.
Sure as heck to care of the damned carpenter bees.

 

[ponytug]

Thank You… location Tahoe.

Well, check it with your zip code, but at a guess HZ 5.

Hardie™ Zone System | James Hardie

Hardie® siding products are Engineered for Climate®. Enter your zip code to find more information on your Hardie™ Zone.

www.jameshardie.com

Installation guide for HZ5;

https://downloads.ctfassets.net/dzi2asncd44t/1QlIBbVJYK7IskazmHqxmH/1fb870c50bdc8f5640bca662c6d672c2/Best-Practice-Guide-HZ5-US-English.pdf

General guidelines (including the above, and its HZ10 equivalent)

Installation Guidance | James Hardie

Access installation guidance and resources from James Hardie for a successful siding installation.

www.jameshardie.com

And yes, always use a fiber cement blade, or a diamond concrete blade, and take adequate precautions for the dust (silicosis).

All the best,

Peter

P.S. as it is Tahoe, I would not use wood, OSB, or vinyl, or vinyl trim due to fire risk.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’m hoping I can use the guillotine for my cuts…

If it works it should help a lot.

2019 pulled a permit to remove a number of trees… was not sure how it would go but inspector came out and suggested adding one more… I had missed the defect but he saw it right away.

My timber from residential lot went to a mill… the tree guy said very marketable and he could justify the crane so it all worked out…

 

[4570Man]

I have one of these that works great for cutting hardie siding. I don’t like hardi siding though. I’d much rather use some of the higher end vinyl/fiberglass products.

 

[ponytug]

I have one of these that works great for cutting hardi siding. I don’t like hardi siding though. I’d much rather use some of the higher end vinyl/fiberglass products.

Out here, the great reasons to use it are fire resistance and UV resistance, but if it worked for everyone, there wouldn't be competing products, right?

All the best, Peter

 

[4570Man]

Out here, the great reasons to use it are fire resistance and UV resistance, but if it worked for everyone, there wouldn't be competing products, right?

All the best, Peter

This is the product that the local dealer carries that I like to use if budget allows. It’s not vinyl. It claims to be class A fire rated whatever that rating means. I’d have to disagree with hardie siding standing up well to uv. Maybe if you disregard looks but I’ve not had good experiences at all keeping paint and calk looking good and that was the point of the OPs complaint to start with. The composite siding eliminates that concern. For what the hardie siding cost plus the cost of painting it I’d just assume brick it for the best of both worlds as far as fire resistance and low maintenance.

 

[CalG]

Hardy board does not hold up in S. Vermont snow country.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’m thinking I should asked what is the preferred siding that performs well in alpine setting and fire resistant?

 

[paulsharvey]

I’m thinking I should asked what is the preferred siding that performs well in alpine setting and fire resistant?

Hardi, in shingles/sheets/planks is very fire resistant and works well. It also looks good, IMO. The other cement board brands do as well.

 

[LouNY]

Hardy board does not hold up in S. Vermont snow country.

I am surprised to hear that. What was the issue?

 

[ponytug]

This is the product that the local dealer carries that I like to use if budget allows. It’s not vinyl. It claims to be class A fire rated whatever that rating means. I’d have to disagree with hardie siding standing up well to uv. Maybe if you disregard looks but I’ve not had good experiences at all keeping paint and calk looking good and that was the point of the OPs complaint to start with. The composite siding eliminates that concern. For what the hardie siding cost plus the cost of painting it I’d just assume brick it for the best of both worlds as far as fire resistance and low maintenance.

I have no experience with this material, but the whole "Class A" thing bugs me as it is sold to us consumers as an indictator of fire resistance. Actually, it is a number comparing the amount of smoke generated in a test compared to smoke from a red oak specimen. We have a Class A deck sold to us, and signed off by a local fire agency as fire resistant, but if you put a flame to that material, the deck will burn. If you put a flame to it with wind, it burns even better. Unfortunately for us, the "flame plus wind" is a wildfire type event, probably our primary fire and home risk.

Having installed siding a bit, I would say that installation accounts for a lot of problems that get blamed on the material, and a bunch more are the fault of the architect. I looked at a roof yesterday that had a pair of roof planes draining together onto a patch of roof that had a 1:24 slope to the gutters. Yes, it had leak issues. Mixed blame in my book. The roofer didn't treat it like a flat roof, and the architect designed the section to look nice from afar.

@ultrarunner there's always the glazed enamel metal siding. (Think Harvestor(rm)) That won't fade and it is fire proof. It's not exactly cheap or widely available...Plus, I hear that it gets loud when it rains.

All the best,

Peter

P.S. here is a link to the Ascend material; vinyl over glass fiber;

Profiles - ASCEND Composite Cladding

ASCEND Composite Cladding offers a full selection of profiles and accessories including our popular 7" Plank and 12" Board & Batten.

ascendcompositecladding.com

 

[CalG]

I am surprised to hear that. What was the issue?

call it deterioration, paint fails, moisture gets in, freeze thaw breaks up the board.
When snow piles against the house is the worst. Either where it slides off, or where the melt drips and splashes.
My experience, that's all.

 

[D'oh]

This is the product that the local dealer carries that I like to use if budget allows. It’s not vinyl. It claims to be class A fire rated whatever that rating means. I’d have to disagree with hardie siding standing up well to uv. Maybe if you disregard looks but I’ve not had good experiences at all keeping paint and calk looking good and that was the point of the OPs complaint to start with. The composite siding eliminates that concern. For what the hardie siding cost plus the cost of painting it I’d just assume brick it for the best of both worlds as far as fire resistance and low maintenance.

I did this. WPC Tongue & Grove, Batten Under. Found it at Auction for the Cheap. Approx $3.50/8' Board.

Goes up quick, once the first run is layed. You could Batten over the Lap or remove and Wrap the Studs.

 

[2manyrocks]

ponytug has mentioned this a couple of times, but it may be worth repeating that you need to consider the work required to prevent water intrusion between the new siding and the old lap. Many installers do a good job on the visible outside, but not so good a job when it comes to flashing and the other work you don't see behind the new siding.

The amount of roof overhang protection for the siding also is important.

Been a few years, but I knew a guy who owned a roofing company that had a nice house overlooking the lake. He replaced all of the vinyl siding with either 4x8 or 4x10 sheet Hardie by himself. It still strikes me as an impressive feat considering the lake side of his house was two stories.

After his youngest daughter graduated only a few years later, she moved to Nashville. He sold his lake house and moved to Nashville after doing all that work.