Mower idler pulley

   / Mower idler pulley #11  
Mower deck pulley's are all planned obsolence parts, I just replace them as required. Least my front mount deck on my Kubota diesel only has 2 and they guide the flat belt as the spindles themselves are drive shaft driven. 40 bucks today is chump change.
Sticker shock should of went out the window a few years ago. Was just looking at a 42" Cub Cadet this morning with the manual pto engagement. Needs new engagement idler arm, but the little brake pads that rub the spindle pulleys to stop the blades when the deck is shut off are worn down to metal. I am going to replace the pads and install new rivets But the little brake bracket assembled is $87.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #12  
Mower deck pulley's are all planned obsolence parts, I just replace them as required. Least my front mount deck on my Kubota diesel only has 2 and they guide the flat belt as the spindles themselves are drive shaft driven. 40 bucks today is chump change.
For me it's the hassle of getting them.

Far more dicking around than the $40 .
 
   / Mower idler pulley #13  
... and those little brake pads are there just to stop blade rotation sooner. Problem is, whent they wear away, they start to scream. Wife's CC ZTR had them at one time as well. They are extreme planned obsolence.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #14  
Sticker shock should of went out the window a few years ago. Was just looking at a 42" Cub Cadet this morning with the manual pto engagement. Needs new engagement idler arm, but the little brake pads that rub the spindle pulleys to stop the blades when the deck is shut off are worn down to metal. I am going to replace the pads and install new rivets But the little brake bracket assembled is $87.
Amazon has the basic arm for 10$ I bought one of those and then repad them ahead with the good pad and rivets. We get to do these a lot. PPD
 
   / Mower idler pulley #15  
I had a pulley like that a few years ago on a friends deck that wasn't available. so I drilled out the rivets, the halves separated, popped the bearing out and installed a new one. Bolted it back together and it lasted until he junked the mower several years later.
I think it used a standard 6203 bearing, or something like that, which I had on hand.

Did the same except I used steel rivets to reassemble. Bearing was cheap compared to the assembly.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #16  
Did the same except I used steel rivets to reassemble. Bearing was cheap compared to the assembly.
I didn't have any rivets (then), but had a bin full of bolts, so I used them. I considered staggering the rivet holes and plug welding the halves together, but went with bolts.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #17  
Amazon has the basic arm for 10$ I bought one of those and then repad them ahead with the good pad and rivets. We get to do these a lot. PPD
End grain poplar makes long lasting friction material.
 
   / Mower idler pulley
  • Thread Starter
#18  
... and those little brake pads are there just to stop blade rotation sooner. Problem is, whent they wear away, they start to scream. Wife's CC ZTR had them at one time as well. They are extreme planned obsolence.
I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #19  
I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.
The brake pads that Randy refers to, are frankly a money grab by B&D. They wear way faster than typical deck brakes due to the design. They can easily fail in under 100 hours. If you don't replace them, the tension arm comes back far enough, which makes the belt way loose and the idler /engagement pulley hits the deck spindle pulley. Just one more reason, you can pay a bit more earlier- or a lot more later.
 
   / Mower idler pulley #20  
I wouldn't characterize brake pads as "planned obsolescence" - some things wear specifically as part of their function.
Bearings aren't meant to wear, but they do; the wearing isn't actually a feature (the wear in brake pads provides the friction, which is good in brakes; wear in bearings is bad).

If you made bearings out of a material that's known not to stand up to the purpose, and you do it on purpose because you want it to wear out sooner, that is planned obsolesence.
This is the brade pad I am referring to.
1752054103799.png


The picture is turned 90 degrees so the rivets holes would be installed horizontal. The spindle pulley brake edge will wear a 1/4 inch groove above and below the rivets holes and will start on what would be the vertical edge and wear until the grooves reach about the 1/2 way mark across the pad before the pad is worn through and the metal spindle pulley starts making contact with the metal backing plate.
 

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