Hinge for folding bale tines

[madtowneast]

I am trying to design some bale forks with folding bale tines. I got as far as the general structure.

I am somewhat stuck on the details. The square tube are sized according to other bale forks I checked out (3x4x1/4, 2x4x1/8). The plate used is 3/4" right now, which may be overkill, but they are meant to handle up to 3000 pounds.

The big thing I am stuck on is how to design the hinges. Looking at other examples of bale tines with moving tine bar, the pins they use vary between 1/2 - 1-1/2". I was thinking about using some off the shelf 25 mm excavator bucket pins, but they are usually housed with bearings, etc. which seems overkill to other examples I have found: Example 1, Example 2, Example 3, Example 4

Anybody have inside into how to design the hings?

 

[zzvyb6]

1) You haven't defined the bale size or weights expected.
2) Why folding ? Can't you just do a QA tine rack and pick up or drop off as needed ?
3) If you insist on fold down tines, use a locked down type hinge that you release with a pin? When in bale holding position let the spikes be sitting on the stops.
4) Whats the weight carrying capacity of your loader or 3 point hitch ? This looks very heavy for just a round or large square bale.
5) Were you thinking hydraulic deployment ? Individual spikes aren't that heavy.
6) How many bales do you want to carry at 1 time ?

 

[madtowneast]

1) You haven't defined the bale size or weights expected.

Up to 3000 pounds, with 2 large square bales of alfalfa.

2) Why folding ? Can't you just do a QA tine rack and pick up or drop off as needed ?

When stacking over 3 high in my barn, pulling out the tines gets dicey. They tend to "stick" to the bales and want to pull the entire stack down. With the hinge you can "push off" without needing hydraulics.

3) If you insist on fold down tines, use a locked down type hinge that you release with a pin? When in bale holding position let the spikes be sitting on the stops.

I designed stops into the back, so the tines can only tilt towards the upper portion. And some 1/2 holes for a pin if needed

4) Whats the weight carrying capacity of your loader or 3 point hitch ? This looks very heavy for just a round or large square bale.

2x large square bales of alfalfa, so about 1200-1300# each.

5) Were you thinking hydraulic deployment ? Individual spikes aren't that heavy.

No

6) How many bales do you want to carry at 1 time ?

2-3 depending the size and type.

 

[zzvyb6]

What do you think of some sort of 'push-off feet' ? My stack wagons have various versions of 2 plates that extract the machinery. Could be dangerous, though: max height and you on the brakes.

 

[madtowneast]

What do you think of some sort of 'push-off feet' ? My stack wagons have various versions of 2 plates that extract the machinery. Could be dangerous, though: max height and you on the brakes.

True, I found a few manufacturers that make a bale spear with a hydraulic push off bar. My concern with that is how to coordinate driving back and pushing things bales off the tines at the same time.

Retracting tines or hooks are a better option. And I have found those as well but those are really expensive.

 

[jwmorris]

These are stronger than the hinges on my FEL's with spikes, will likely out last them too and they are simple.

What hinge you might want depends on the rest of the design.

 

[Hay Dude]

I am trying to design some bale forks with folding bale tines. I got as far as the general structure.

View attachment 3853190


I am somewhat stuck on the details. The square tube are sized according to other bale forks I checked out (3x4x1/4, 2x4x1/8). The plate used is 3/4" right now, which may be overkill, but they are meant to handle up to 3000 pounds.

The big thing I am stuck on is how to design the hinges. Looking at other examples of bale tines with moving tine bar, the pins they use vary between 1/2 - 1-1/2". I was thinking about using some off the shelf 25 mm excavator bucket pins, but they are usually housed with bearings, etc. which seems overkill to other examples I have found: Example 1, Example 2, Example 3, Example 4

Anybody have inside into how to design the hings?

There’s a company in Lancaster County, PA that already makes a similar set up
The spears are rigid when pushing into the bale, but when you back out, they move vertically a little, to ease the sticking problem.

I have the same issue, but even with 100% rigid forks I have, I came up with 2 methods of helping them release.

1. I stack my 4x4x8’s four layers high (16’). I bring the bales in from the field to the stacking spot (2) bales at a time. The first 2 are easy since they are on ground level. I would then bring in the 3rd bale, place it on top, then bring in the 4th bale and finish the stack. That was the hardest one to stack since it had the tendency to pull the whole stack over towards the tractor when withdrawing from the bale. Many years ago, I discovered it is much easier to bring 2 bales in, and stack them on top of the lower (2) bales. That way the spears are in the 3rd bale from the top, not the 4th bale. This lowers the spears’ center of gravity and adds the weight of a 4th bale on top. Makes it real easy to withdrawal.

2. In the event I do still encounter resistance withdrawing from the bale, I “wiggle” the loader curl function up and down with the spears fully immersed in the bale. This creates “slots” in the bale and the spears pull out easily.

 

[Hay Dude]

True, I found a few manufacturers that make a bale spear with a hydraulic push off bar. My concern with that is how to coordinate driving back and pushing things bales off the tines at the same time.

Retracting tines or hooks are a better option. And I have found those as well but those are really expensive.

I’ve wanted to try one of these, but I don’t really need it anymore with the steps I use now.
I bet if you put one bale on the floor, then stack the next 2 together on top of the single, you’ll find it’ll withdrawal much easier with the added weight of the 3rd bale on top.

 

[madtowneast]

These are stronger than the hinges on my FEL's with spikes, will likely out last them too and they are simple.

What hinge you might want depends on the rest of the design.

Those look like just flanged bronze bushings. Or are they something else?

 

[madtowneast]

There’s a company in Lancaster County, PA that already makes a similar set up
The spears are rigid when pushing into the bale, but when you back out, they move vertically a little, to ease the sticking problem.

I have found that company as well. I contacted them about a video to see how much theirs move and haven’t heard back in over a week. Honestly, it seemed like a recipe for something to wear out quickly or get stuck in a weird way.

I have the same issue, but even with 100% rigid forks I have, I came up with 2 methods of helping them release.

1. I stack my 4x4x8’s four layers high (16’). I bring the bales in from the field to the stacking spot (2) bales at a time. The first 2 are easy since they are on ground level. I would then bring in the 3rd bale, place it on top, then bring in the 4th bale and finish the stack. That was the hardest one to stack since it had the tendency to pull the whole stack over towards the tractor when withdrawing from the bale. Many years ago, I discovered it is much easier to bring 2 bales in, and stack them on top of the lower (2) bales. That way the spears are in the 3rd bale from the top, not the 4th bale. This lowers the spears’ center of gravity and adds the weight of a 4th bale on top. Makes it real easy to withdrawal.

I usually do 5 3x3x8s and do put the last 2 ontop of the bottom 3. I still have a lot of issues. I also tried putting another stack of 3 in front as stop to keep the stack from moving the same issue.

2. In the event I do still encounter resistance withdrawing from the bale, I “wiggle” the loader curl function up and down with the spears fully immersed in the bale. This creates “slots” in the bale and the spears pull out easily.

I will need to try that.