Buying House with Septic System

[ejnichol]

If you have a salt based water softener system, do Not run the backwash discharge into your septic system if at all possible.

The salt kills the good bacteria which consumes your tanks waste.

The salt also eats away at your concrete septic tank, skimmer and baffles if your system uses concrete tank and fixtures.

Also want to add something several septic people have told me. Your bowel movement contains all the good bacteria your tank needs. No need to add anything to your system in the way of additional additives. Avoid anything going in except fresh fecal matter. No bleach, oils, salt or chemicals.

 

[paulsharvey]

I'm also new to septic and am curious about driving over the field. Should I avoid driving my 1800 lb UTV over it? How about my 4000 lb tractor? I've been staying off of it except with the mower but I'm curious how paranoid I should be. I also would like to level it a bit since it makes up the main part of my lawn and is a bit rough in spots. Any issue dragging a landscaping rake over it with the UTV?

In general, you should avoid crossing the drain field regularly with anything heavier than a riding mower or Zero turn. The tank, if you dont know the type, same. A concrete lid "should" be fine; But you never know if its a poly tank with poly riser and poly lid, or maybe the concrete lid has a crack.

On the drain field; two things your worried about; 1) crushing that thin perf pipe; 2) gradual compaction.

If I needed to get to the other side, yeah, id go across; but i would do it often. As a smarter method, if I Had to drive a truck across; maybe lay some 2x12s in the wheel path to spread the load over a greater number of Sq Ft.

Cranes, power trucks, delivery trucks; tree trucks; absolutely dont. Roofing material delivery, ect. Also, dont park cars on it.

The UTV, your likely less PSI than a riding mower. I wouldn't park on it, or drive over it weekly, but a seasonal dragging, I would not worry about.

 

[paulsharvey]

"Mound systems have been referred to as "turkey mounds", lol. I have seen some in the front yard due to I suppose lot size?"

Likely forced by well placement, either theirs or their neighbors.

 

[California]

I got on the backhoe and dug a separate leach line for the washing machine, which is in the barn. Just 20 ft of perforated pipe in gravel. No septic tank.

10 years now and it works fine. There isn't a difference in the grass above it, but I expect the adjacent Redwood tree likes it.

And a question - down in the apple orchard there are two huge walnut trees at the point where slopes converge and the ground gets muddy. I wonder if Grandpa planted those to try to dry out that region by taking up some of the ground water. Likely?

 

[JTKub]

I got on the backhoe and dug a separate leach line for the washing machine, which is in the barn. Just 20 ft of perforated pipe in gravel. No septic tank.

10 years now and it works fine. There isn't a difference in the grass above it, but I expect the adjacent Redwood tree likes it.

And a question - down in the apple orchard there are two huge walnut trees at the point where slopes converge and the ground gets muddy. I wonder if Grandpa planted those to try to dry out that region by taking up some of the ground water. Likely?

Tons of older homes in my area have a separate "system" for their sinks and laundry waste water. It ain't right, nor is it legal, but I don't blame them. I'd do it too if I had the infrastructure for it.

 

[ponytug]

If you have a salt based water softener system, do Not run the backwash discharge into your septic system if at all possible.

The salt kills the good bacteria which consumes your tanks waste.

The salt also eats away at your concrete septic tank, skimmer and baffles if your system uses concrete tank and fixtures.

Also want to add something several septic people have told me. Your bowel movement contains all the good bacteria your tank needs. No need to add anything to your system in the way of additional additives. Avoid anything going in except fresh fecal matter. No bleach, oils, salt or chemicals.

Actually, that might not be the case generally. The Wisconsin DNR did a study a while back and found no difference in septic system performance between homes with the salt from the water softener regeneration cycle added to the septic, and those that infiltrated the softener regeneration water separately.

I could see that if you have clay, or clay like, soils in your leach field all that extra sodium might not be especially helpful, especially if your soils don't get much rain. YMMV.

All the best, Peter

 

[ericm979]

I'm also new to septic and am curious about driving over the field. Should I avoid driving my 1800 lb UTV over it? How about my 4000 lb tractor? I've been staying off of it except with the mower but I'm curious how paranoid I should be. I also would like to level it a bit since it makes up the main part of my lawn and is a bit rough in spots. Any issue dragging a landscaping rake over it with the UTV?

The guys who put in the new conventional leach field at our house in Oregon said to keep all equipment and livestock off it, to prevent soil compaction.

The answer you get may depend on the soil characteristics, in addition to the type of leach field.

 

[BackRoad]

As Mr. WinterDeere mentioned, on our last house sale, we as the seller obtained the septic certificate before the 1st open house.

They found an issue with the distribution junction box, which we paid to resolve before the house was listed.

But the septic certificate is like having a "Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval". Septics can be one of the costlier buyer inspection failures, and often found late in the 9th inning.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

I have learned so much about septic systems in this thread, again, thanks for all the insight! We are definitely going to have an inspection if it goes that far. I am far more confident in my ability to manage a septic system after reading this thread.

 

[paulsharvey]

As much as it can be frustrating to a home seller; stuff like the survey, septic certificate, foundation, and roof, that will pretty much 100% be required, really should be done by the seller.

Reason being; the sale falls through, they still have the survey, certificate, ect. If the buyer gets it, and sale falls through, what use is a survey of someone else's property?

Maybe there is a way to sell the survey, septic/roof certificate back to seller is sale falls through.

When we sold; we provided the survey, septic certificate, and copy of the reroof permit (like 3 years old). Buyer #1 paid for foundation and general inspection. We then paid for foundation tie downs, and a water heater, based on those, and then it fell through. 2nd Buyer actually offered Buyer 1 50% of the cost for copy of inspection reports, but Buyer #1 was too butt hurt to get some of her money back