I bought a Fire Truck

[D&D]

Looking like I'm going to have a really hard time finding an operation or maintenance manual for this King Seagrave QSMF body.

Yep, they're almost one off productions.
This might help, I'll dig through some piles and see if I have anything better

https://www.montgomerycountymd.gov/mcfrs-psta/Resources/Files/Driver/20150325/UnitKBAerials/Twr703%20Seagrave/AT703%20chassis%20ops%20manual.pdf

 

[WinterDeere]

So this is not to debate anyone, I respect all comments, but when everyone was debating over if it's a fire truck or fire engine or apparatus....is this a regional thing?

In Cleveland, it's "fire truck".

 

[RjCorazza]

So when the fire chief and I pumped the tank off, he told me to open both these two valves I circled BEFORE I engage the PTO.
I know how to engage the PTO and use "Drive" on the transmission once engaged.
Anything else?

Those are capped discharge ports on the other side of the engine. To pump water off of the tank, you will need to open the tank to pump valve (green arrow) and open the discharge valve of your choice. Uncap the discharge obviously, and be aware that when throttled up a significant and potentially damaging stream of water is produced. Things get potentially more dangerous when you attach a hose line. I got a broken leg, thumb, and concussion from an over pressurized handline... It was quite a ride.
It's been a long time since I operated a pump, but the rule in my area (US) is that anything above the impeller of the pump (large master intake) is a discharge, and anything below the impeller is an intake.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Congats; Long time firefighter and owner of a 1952 Mack pumper here.

Love the Detroits. Only thing ever made to turn diesel fuel into noise! Plus they are really good at marking their territory with leaked oil.

You obviously need to drain the pump and lines to prevent freezing.

Don't forget to drain the tank.

If it has a booster reel (a spool with red rubber hose on it) you will need to blow it out to get the water out. Some rigs have an air nipple on the booster piping, if not pull the hose off of the reel, disconnect the hose and drain it or blow it out.

There should be a small line connecting the pump to the radiator with a valve labeled "Engine Cooler" or something similar. This sends cool pump water through a heat exchanger in the radiator to cool the engine while sitting stationary pumping at a fire. Make sure you find the drain for this line as it is small and will split easily if frozen.

Do not open the "main drain" while the pump is pressurized. It has "O" rings in it that will be blown out.

Pull the blind caps from all discharges and inlets and open their valves to make sure they are not air locked when the pump drains. Or open the bleeders if so equipped.

 

[Topzide]

I'm sure that you'll be able to find all the "goodies" needed to make it complete. Must be a bit speedy, but doable.

 

[Fxfymn413]

One other thing: Ground ladders have a heat detection sticker affixed. If the sticker indicates the ladder was exposed to high heat it is placed out of service. My department's shop had a stack of these ladders that looked fine, but could not be used. Your local FD may have the same and could be a source for a replacement ladder for you.

 

[Engineer42]

So thanks a lot everyone!! I'll try and get into everyone's responses here with a few questions and answers.
Yes, unfortunately it won't be in a heated building this winter as I tried all summer to get someone here to build and all I got was promises and no-shows.
So we pumped tank off, then when I got home I opened these two valves...one says pumps multi-drain and the other is the gauge drain. Lots of water came out both.
Is there anything else I'm missing? Should I leave any other valves open or pull plugs out of anything, or blow all the gauges out?

Hale pump? Open all drains. Close the valves. Gauges are your weak points. Plus the copper lines running to them.

 

[WinterDeere]

All the talk of freezing pumps and tanks in this thread has made me question how our local FD's fill their pumpers in winter cold. Most drop a suction line into the closest lake or reservoir to fill, I've seen them do it countless times, refilling trucks after a fire. But our lakes do freeze over part of each winter.

I'm guessing that each fire call in that weather has the chief sending one of his volunteers to the lake, to start augering a hole, to be prepared in case they need to refill a pumper right-quick?

The FD's all store their larger equipment indoors, excepting the occasional field truck, so no issue with storage once filled.

 

[repete]

I just bought a fire truck, LOL Why? Well when I was a kid I started out driving many Ford dump trucks with Detroit Diesel power. 6-71, 6V53, 8V53, 8V71. I don't know ANYTHING about fire trucks.
But when I saw the chance to save a 1980 Ford L9000 from getting trashed I bid on it.
My plan was originally to pull the body and put a flatbed on it to haul my antique tractors because I just wanted a cool old Ford. But once I saw it, I don't have the heart to take it apart. So it will be preserved as is.
It has 162,000 KM (100,662 miles) and is powered by a 6V92TA Detroit Diesel with an Allison automatic.
Everything works, and it was still in service, it just now aged out to be re-certified as a front line pumper.
What a sound going down the highway!! Reminded me of why I'm deaf after a life of driving 2 stroke Detroit's and trucks with straight pipes.

Did they provide you with the annual pump test data? Like RjCorazza says, do not run it dry and if you do run the pump, crack open the "Tank Fill" or "Recirculate" or "Pump Cooler". They may labeled in multiple ways but they all run water from the pump back into the tank to keep the pump cool.
56 years and counting running fire pumps here. Done hundreds of annual pump tests and a lot of acceptance tests.
Feel free to throw questions my way as well as RJ's.

 

[repete]

Some overlook the anode in the pump. This anode can come in many forms including intake strainers at the large diameter intakes. Check that they are intact as they are, by design, going to erode.
If you want to look for leaks in the pump, get a garden hose and a 2.5" cap or plug and put in a garden hose adaptor and charge it up. Close all your lines to the tank as well as drains and remove all caps with the exception of the large 6" intakes that do not have valves in your picture.
I would love to be standing at that pump panel with you....