Tractor chains for snow and ice advice

[North to Alaska]

Hello and thanks in advance.
Just looking for advice on what to get for my tractor this winter…that won’t cost me a fortune
I have a fairly steep and approximately 15’ ridge to climb while hauling logs out. Logging my property for past couple years and selling firewood as I go. With a pto winch I can do so through the winter too and just plow the logging road I made.
The land is mostly flat but this ridge is going to a pain this winter.

I will be bending my fenders out to make enough room for the chains. But chains need to be tight or it could end badly. So i am particularly worried about the ladder style and any slop from them.

Definitely looking for advice from people with experience dealing with different chains in snow and ice. We get about 12’ if snow average around my area.
Here are possible options at this time:

My local Branson dealer has these for $643
Ladder style from Quality Chains

2615 - Loader / Grader Chain

Quality Chain Corp snow, ice, mud tire chains are high quality traction devices. The feature better durability, lower wear, and longer service time. These tire chains utilize cross cables made up of alloy steel rollers and can be easily installed.

qualitychaincorp.com

Glacier Chain Supply in Anchorage has these for $877
Aquiline MPC (Multi Purpose Chains)

Aquiline MPC 16.9-24 Tractor Tire Chains

www.midwesttraction.com

I can get these Piedmont Duo style from Tirechainsonline for $600 with free shipping to Tacoma Wa where Carlile MyConnect shipping can ship it to their Anchorage terminal for around $60.

https://tirechainsonline.com/part-no-duo260/

 

[CalG]

Any chain is good!

If you are counting on a tight fit to clear hard parts, You need to rethink, chains loosen!

I studded the tires on the Hurlimann, because there was just no clearence for chains. (I'm not disappointed!)

A day ago, I added to a set of light weight chains to fit the tires on the B2601. The heavy chains that were supplied by the dealer were Great for traction, but really tear up everything they cross. The "new" chains were repurposed from a garden tractor application. V bar in a smaller chain size.

Your need?, hauling out wood, in the woods, I might consider ring chains for economy.

If you want the "best", go with the "Euro/ logger style studded chains.

But where are you going to get the space?

My B2601 has wheel spacers to keep the chains from fouling the fenders.
Rubber tensioning means nothing if you travel at 30 mph.

 

[North to Alaska]

Any chain is good!

If you are counting on a tight fit to clear hard parts, You need to rethink, chains loosen!

I studded the tires on the Hurlimann, because there was just no clearence for chains. (I'm not disappointed!)

A day ago, I added to a set of light weight chains to fit the tires on the B2601. The heavy chains that were supplied by the dealer were Great for traction, but really tear up everything they cross. The "new" chains were repurposed from a garden tractor application. V bar in a smaller chain size.

Your need?, hauling out wood, in the woods, I might consider ring chains for economy.

If you want the "best", go with the "Euro/ logger style studded chains.

But where are you going to get the space?

My B2601 has wheel spacers to keep the chains from fouling the fenders.
Rubber tensioning means nothing if you travel at 30 mph.

I plan to bend the fenders back if needed. A crow bar will do
I looked at studs but they just won’t have enough traction on this hill.
I’m looking strongly at the aquiline mpc even though they are more expensive.

 

[hayden]

These cleated Trygg chains are excellent, but not if you need to run over pavement or concrete.

 

[BlueKnife]

I will be bending my fenders out to make enough room for the chains. But chains need to be tight or it could end badly. So i am particularly worried about the ladder style and any slop from them.

Do you need more clearance for the sidewall or the tread side of the tire? If it's sidewall, you need a spacer to bump the wheel out. If it's the tread side, you're asking for damage, regardless which style chain you choose. If you don't care too much about chewed up fenders then that might not matter. The pattern of chain isn't going to make a difference as far as that goes. The V bar or studded chains will cause more fender damage than non studded.

Studded chains give the best traction, followed by V bar, then square link, then standard.

I highly recommend getting cams on your chains. It makes getting them tight far easier.

 

[North to Alaska]

It’s between the tread. My one side has already been bent up due to a logging jack handle, which was hanging off the skidding winch, getting caught by the tire. While bending the fender up is not something I want to do, it is something I am willing to do to make it work. This tractor is a work tractor, not a show tractor. 5 years old and already has a few dings from working with logs and brush.

Why I am considering the more expensive aquiline mpc which is available locally. Those square bars might help with traction and it is a lower profile chain.

Even at $877, the aquiline is still considerably cheaper than most other types like it…especially the studded, v bar, etc. I don’t have $1,000 to just drop on a set of chains but if I plan to work through the winter, I will need to.

I am here to hopefully not screw up by wasting money on a set that won’t do the job.

 

[North to Alaska]

These cleated Trygg chains are excellent, but not if you need to run over pavement or concrete.

View attachment 4341656

And too expensive for me

 

[BlueKnife]

It’s between the tread. My one side has already been bent up due to a logging jack handle, which was hanging off the skidding winch, getting caught by the tire. While bending the fender up is not something I want to do, it is something I am willing to do to make it work. This tractor is a work tractor, not a show tractor. 5 years old and already has a few dings from working with logs and brush.

Why I am considering the more expensive aquiline mpc which is available locally. Those square bars might help with traction and it is a lower profile chain.

Even at $877, the aquiline is still considerably cheaper than most other types like it…especially the studded, v bar, etc. I don’t have $1,000 to just drop on a set of chains but if I plan to work through the winter, I will need to.

I am here to hopefully not screw up by wasting money on a set that won’t do the job.

Is this the tractor you have? Branson Tractors 4520R Should be plenty of room for chains if it is.

 

[North to Alaska]

Is this the tractor you have? Branson Tractors 4520R Should be plenty of room for chains if it is.

Yes but with larger tires
Pictures
My hill
One fender was bent upward already from a logging hack getting caught.
The other two pictures show what i am dealing with.

Like i said, the fender is getting bent up or cut if necessary.

 

[LouNY]

The Aquiline MPC are the better of the chains you listed, The Aquiline Talons will work much better then any you listed, the same with the Trygg studded in post #4.

At normal working speeds the chains will not stand up and sling out much.

This is the clearance on my IH 574

And my Branson all chained up

And notice no tighteners or bungee cords, even when roading at up to 17 mph no issues. Also I have not had any issues with pavement this tractor has been roaded several miles several times while chained with no excessive wear or tear on the chains or the road.
On the farm chained up tractors have road traveled at 12-16 mph for many years on paved roads with no road damage. They provide enough grip that it's not necessary to spin and chew on pavement.
No conventional style of chain will provide any-wheres close to the traction and with decent ride quality.