Lower 3pl arms quick hitch options?

[ptsg]

Now I'm curious as to what category this one is, and for lower arms or top link? I bought a pair of these (by mistake as I soon discovered when I got back to the farm) but never got around to taking them back for exchange.

View attachment 5833398

Not sure if it's for a top link either as the top link balls typically have like a lip extending out of each side of the ball.

 

[ptsg]

My dealer has asked if I want the CBM Cat.2s (small) or the 2 size.
The bar itself just before it becomes thicker for the socket is 17x60mm (A). Does anyone know where these are supposed to be cut ie before they become thicker (A) for the socket ie just plain bar or incorporating part of the thicker socket area (B)?

Should I oversize so as to get a better chance of hitting the implement target or should the hook and bar weldable area be as closely matched as possible.
CBM Cat.2s=Welding area: 32x80mm. Working length of hook:105mm, Outer Ø (mm):56mm
CBM Cat.2=Welding area: 35x100mm. Working length of hook:130mm, Outer Ø (mm):56mm
Walterscheid Cat.2 dimensions:
View attachment 5834158


View attachment 5830170

Cat 2s offer a smaller hook size so it can still work with Cat 1 implements. If you use cat 1 implements, that's something to consider.

As far as welding the hooks, I would just measure the distance between pins on your current arms and put the hooks in the same place, which will require to cut a but more of the arm since the hook is longer.

 

[tractor240]

Cat 2s offer a smaller hook size so it can still work with Cat 1 implements. If you use cat 1 implements, that's something to consider.

As far as welding the hooks, I would just measure the distance between pins on your current arms and put the hooks in the same place, which will require to cut a but more of the arm since the hook is longer.

I don't have any Cat.1 implements and if I ever do, I can use the ball inserts to reduce the pin diameter.
There is quite a big difference between the weldable height of the 2s and the 2. Bearing in mind my bar is about 60mm even a bit further back from line A, I'm not sure which would be a better fit. I suppose once welded it probably doesn't make much difference except the taller one looking like a bit of mis-matched afterthought.
The Walterscheid looks like it's sized between the CBM 2s and the 2 but they don't give the weldable height measurement.

Still not decided between the CBM and the Walterscheid.....the latter has gone to the trouble of a brochure/dimensioned diagram (which is usually a good sign) but their repair kit is very expensive, the CBM kit is much cheaper though I can't see why you can't just replace the spring which they sell separately.
I wrote to CBM in Italy about where theirs are cast and no reply which may or may not indicate that they have something to hide. I can't find any brochure or other info on theirs either so they may lose the deal based only on the lack of info they provide.

 

[ptsg]

I think you're overthinking this a little bit, regarding different brands and how they're made. Don't get me wrong, I understand trying to buy a quality product. You'll be perfectly fine with any of the 3 brands and I doubt you'll ever need a rebuild kit any time soon.

The Cat 2s or h as Walterscheid calls them, is rated up to 74HP and the Cat 2 are rated up to 95HP.

Anyway, here is a bit more info about welding the hooks. Maybe it helps you some: https://www.walterscheid.com/out/pictures/ddmedia/tas-a-04-01-gb.pdf

 

[tractor240]

Anyway, here is a bit more info about welding the hooks. Maybe it helps you some: https://www.walterscheid.com/out/pictures/ddmedia/tas-a-04-01-gb.pdf

Thanks. I think that pdf has sold me on them. Got to love a manufacturer who goes to that sort of effort.

 

[LouNY]

Now I'm curious as to what category this one is, and for lower arms or top link? I bought a pair of these (by mistake as I soon discovered when I got back to the farm) but never got around to taking them back for exchange.

View attachment 5833398

Many years ago both Ford, Oliver, MM, Cockshut and others offered a quick hook on the lift arms. They are a different size then the "newer" Euro hooks.

 

[Cycledude]

Removed the extendable links from my LS and shipped them to board member MtnViewRanch out in California to have category 1-2 Euro Hooks welded on , he does excellent work and I’m very happy with the results. Makes it much easier hooking-unhooking heavy equipment.
For some unknown reason LS sells tractors in other countries with Euro Hooks but not in the USA. My dealer even attempted to buy Euro Hooks from LS but they say they are not allowed to ship them to the USA.

 

[Bentrim]

Many years ago both Ford, Oliver, MM, Cockshut and others offered a quick hook on the lift arms. They are a different size then the "newer" Euro hooks.

Not sure about adapters or what fits but Case used a similar link end.

Deere used a ball and hook on the top links starting with the 20 series

 

[Mudfarmer]

I've used Pats on three tractors over the years. My only complaint is the L-shaped swivel intended to keep the latch open when disengaging from the implement isn't strong enough (on each of the three generations of the "Pats" I have). They invariably bend out of shape on the first use. Thus, to disengage one has to get off the tractor and pull the latch on both sides by hand, but you have to get off anyway to undo the top link. I used the balls for years and then tried a full frame quick attach. So far, the best combination i've found is the Pat's with a hydraulic top-link. I would estimate about a fifty percent frustration improvement over the other two methods.

 

[ptsg]

What brand of hooks are they in the pic?

After a long time searching around, turns out my tractor does have the Walterscheid hooks, but it's the older version where the top part of the latch is fabricated instead of forged and it's an entirely different shape. This was what was throwing me off.

This is good to know if I ever need a repair kit.