Lawn Tractor - JD vs Craftsman

GaryS · Jun 13, 2006

I have 8 acres and a MF 1428 and I was going to buy a RFM for it but when I saw the prices I decided to buy a lawn tractor instead.

I surprised at the complexity -- Gear, CVT, Hydro just to start. I'll be using the tractor on 2 acres of hilly land.

I don't want anything fancy - I simply want to mulch cut the grass. So far, I've looked at the JD 100 series and Craftsman but I'm lost in all the variations.

What's going to be the best lawn tractor for hills? What are the pros/cons of CVT vs. Hydro? With the hills, would I be better off with a gear tractor?

bontai_Joe · Jun 13, 2006

Is your hilly 2 acres wide open land or lots of trees and landscaping? Are the hills few and big or many and small and how steep? are we talking Nebraska hills or Pocono hills? With this info we can suggest what width deck to use to avoid scalping, and what drive train might be best to use.

Mike_Lipke · Jun 13, 2006

CVT is just another name for a hydrostatic.

cokeman · Jun 13, 2006

Don't think so.
CVT- continuously variable transmission ie belt drive
Hydro- uses pressurized hydraulic oil

I don't recommend CVT

Dean

Mike_Lipke · Jun 13, 2006

If someone is making a belt drive CVT, not a hydrostatic (which is also really a different type of CVT) tractor/lawn mower, I would give it a wide berth as well.

dieselsmoke1 · Jun 13, 2006

See this thread regarding the Sears hydro.

In my situation I'm satisfied and bear no grudges, you may consider the info informative and think differently.

GaryS · Jun 13, 2006

Most of what I'd cut with the tractor will be open. I'll use the push mower to get in and around stuff. I live in Western PA so the hills are more like Pocono hills!

It sounds like I want to avoid CVT. My Massey is a Hydro - I wasn't sure if this was the same system. It is the same hydro as on the bigger tractors, right? So, now I have to decide between gear and hydro.

What is the main differences between the Deere 100 series and the x series? The cheapest x series is like $2700 and I see decent 100 series for $1700.

beenthere · Jun 13, 2006

You will get what you pay for. No two ways about it, in my opinion. Buy cheap, get cheap.

Extra care and attention to keeping things fixed, and avoiding bumps and bruises will go a long way to keep the cheap ones running. Keep an eye open for down the road if you want to have some trade-in value, and parts available. All can be important to the owner of a machine.

Good luck. Sounds like this is your first-time buying yard tractors.

Fordlords · Jun 14, 2006

It's tough to find a really good LGT with gear drive anymore- I think Toro still has one GT with a gear drive. It is a get what you pay for game, and as long as you buy enough tractor for your work you'll be OK. Hilly land can be taxing on the inexpensive belt driven sealed (non serviceable) type of hydrostatic transaxles found on the JD 100's and Craftsmans and many others. I tell everyone this humble opinion of mine a lot-- the transmission truly makes the tractor what it is or can be. To get a good LGT with a cast iron, serviceable transaxle with external filter that might last 20 years or so look to spend at least $3000. Or, you go the inexpensive route and buy a new little LT at $1500-1800 every 8-10 years.

-Fordlords-

Gatorboy · Jun 14, 2006

Isn't comparing a JD to a Craftsman like comparing a BMW to a Kia?

ovrszd · Jun 14, 2006

( Isn't comparing a JD to a Craftsman like comparing a BMW to a Kia? )

Pretty close.

DmansPadge · Jun 14, 2006

( Isn't comparing a JD to a Craftsman like comparing a BMW to a Kia? )

Maybe if your comparing a Craftsman with an upper end JD.... not an L series.

Shimon · Jun 14, 2006

I've been shopping around for a lawn tractor for about a year now and have driven a bunch and have done a lot of research. I'm not an expert but I have formed some opinions. The L series JDs are a small notch better than the Craftsmans and I don't consider them "real JDs" (just my opinion). You need to get at least an X series to get a real JD. The quality difference is very evident and the fact that a you get real engine (Kawasaki vs B&S or Kohler Courage). The engine in the tractor tells you a lot about how well it's built. It's a quick litmus test for quality (not perfect...but pretty good). I always though I would spend $1500 on a lawn tractor but now it looks like I'll spend twice that to get one that would last.

DmansPadge · Jun 14, 2006

No doubt when you step up to an X you are getting a better machine. But I'm comparing the average $1500 mowers out there. To me there is little difference between any at that price range. It's not fair to say that a JD X300+ is a better machine than the Craftsman... because they don't even make a machine to compete with it. You can spend 12k+ on a top of the line JD GT. As for the entry level machines, regardless of brand, they are all pretty equal. And to be honest... with a little maintenance and care... they can hold up for a long time. I hear a lot of folks talk about buying one that will last "20 years." I've seen a bunch of old inexpensive mowers last 15+ years. And by that time, no matter what I paid for it, I'd probably be ready for a new one anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

DmansPadge · Jun 14, 2006

( How does an entry level mower today compare with the cheap mowers that are 15 to 20 years old now?)

Good question. But its all relative. A cheap JD today is about like a cheap Craftsman today.

( I wouldn't expect a John Deere 100 series to last as long as some old Craftsman. )

I guess only time will tell. I just think a lot of people assume that because a mower doesn't cost $3000+ that it is a piece of junk that will only last one season.

Fordlords · Jun 14, 2006

In comparing entry level $1500-2000 machines from JD, Cub, Toro, Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc, its pretty much just a matter of choosing what color tractor you want, the working components are all about identical. You get either a Kohler Courage or Briggs Intek engine coupled by a belt to a Hydro-Gear sealed hydrostatic transaxle and another belt going to a mower deck. Everything else is just each maker's own recipe of the same basic ingredients that are, "economy," components. Just pick your color if it's this type of tractor you want. Often times the type of service you get with these machines makes or breaks if the tractor is good or not. During the warranty period Sears will come and fix a Craftsman right at your house, and most JD and CC dealers will pick your tractor up and leave you a loaner. With some of the other brands, you can be left out in the cold or be responsible for transporting the tractor somewhere for repairs.

When you move up the line and compare the medium price range LGT's, things start to change dramatically. For instance a JD X300 and a CC 2542 are quite a bit different beasts that go out of the league of the machines Craftsman makes.

-Fordlords-

bontai_Joe · Jun 15, 2006

The entry level Deere 102 offers a gear tranny for $1399, and comes with a 42" deck. Deere offers a snowplow and a snowblower for this model, but this is a pretty light tractor to be using for large snow removal jobs. The 42" deck would scalp less than the 48" or 54" decks some other tractors come with. In this price range, I'd be looking at this, or the Craftsman/Husqvarna clones and see which one fit me physically, had the best layout for controls, leg room, belly room (if needed) and a comfy seat.

gary1611 · Jun 15, 2006

I bought a mid range crapsmen a few years ago Its complete junk.
Had to rebuild deck first year and every year there on mower belts
brakes stopped working second year. Tranny (gearshift) and engine (brigs 19.5hp) is good. Had to replace front axle with cast iron one from older tractor. Comfortable ride easy to get on. I'm also in western pa about 1 1/2 acres. Way to much to mow for these lower end tractors 1/2 acre max. Lower end john deer look to be just as cheep john deere probaly doesn't even make them. On a small lot these would be fine but you will wear it out Quickly on two acres. I would definetly go with hydro Much easier to mow with. But I think your most reliable and fastest choice is a mower for the massey. I use A flail and it does a great job And no problems. Twice as fast as the lt. Plus less than a 1/3 the fuel with the diesel than the gas. So if your tractors diesel you can save the extra spent in fuel. Check out agri-supply.com they have good prices on coroni flail and finish mowers. If its a safety concern do yourself a favor and go to dealers and look at there tractors or at least the higher end models in the box stores. More money spent know will be less later. Plus the agravation of repair. Also the for sears to come to your house you have to buy a warranty plan. At least thats way it was when i bought mine.
Otherwise you have to take it to a service center. My 2c

garchib · Jun 16, 2006

I just bought a Craftsman YS4500 LE with 42" MMM for my second tractor for $1399, which is a heck of a deal. The low-end JD(s) are not any better than the low-end Sears, Cub Cadet(s), etc. They are all in the same class. I am happy with what I got from the Sears for $ 1399.

bontai_Joe · Jun 17, 2006

garchib said:
...... The low-end JD(s) are not any better than the low-end Sears, Cub Cadet(s), etc. They are all in the same class. I am happy with what I got from the Sears for $ 1399.

There is some truth to the above statement, after all $1399 buys only so much. What you need to do is evaluate the features of each machine you are looking at vs. what you want to do. If you see 3 tractors all at $1399, all seemingly similar, then it comes down to leg room, comfy seat, dealer that will service it, headlights if you need them, parts support, ease of reaching controls, ease of removing the deck for cleaning and changing blades, ease of changing the oil, etc. Brand "A" may be a nice machine, but have features that less meaningful to YOU than brand "B" which has a better seat for your bad back, or maybe brand "C" compares well with the others, but the dealer is a long established guy 2 miles up the road making getting parts and service MUCH better than the 30 mile trip to brand "B"'s shop that is never open after work. When at any given price range, these factors all become part of the equation. A personal example was when I recommended a 2004 Cub GT1500 series to my brother. Great little tractor in his price range and would do all he needs, but when he sat his 6'-5" frame in the seat, his knees were almost by his ears. Not nearly enough leg room, and it would have been a bad choice for him. A tall right hander is gonna have different needs in control placement than a short left hander. And thats why folks buy different machines for what might look like the same job.