Hydraulic Top Link OR Tnt without the t!

[OkieG]

After discovering what an hydraulic Top Link was a year and a half ago (thanks to TBN), and just over a year of slowly collecting parts, I finally pieced an hydraulic Top Link together for my little JD 855.

Here's a view of the plumbing. The valve is Prince and mounted on the right side of the ROPS.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

This view is at a slightly different angle. It shows the quick disconnects a little better. The disconnects (4) mount on a bracket that bolts to the Top Link holder. It's part of a JD kit.

I had the JD parts guys make up the hoses.

The hyd. Top Link is not mounted in this picture.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Here's the Top Link cylinder, in place. I heated and opened up the OEM clip to accomodate the larger diameter of the hyd. cylinder.

The cylinder is also Prince. It came as just a cylinder, with no Cat 1 swivels. I bought a manual Top Link at Tractor Supply and cut the ends to length to weld onto the cylinder. I wanted the weldable end to be round, but the only weldable Cat 1 swivels I could find were on flat steel, to be welded onto a lift arm. I expected the welding to be trouble, but it wasn't. It went pretty smooth. I welded with the rod extended to keep heat as far away from the seals as possible. The rod was wrapped with a dampened cloth. The base of the rod, down by the cylinder never even got warm. Closed length of the OEM Top Link is 18 1/2". I cut the swivels to match that closed length...and the rod will extend 8".

Welding to the base of the cylinder barrel was done with the hydraulic quick disconnects connected. Whenever I paused while welding, I released pressure (built up from the welding heat) by moving the valve lever. Removing the hyraulic line from the cylinder would probably work OK, too. When welding was done, I started the tractor and ran the cylinder rod back and forth several times to circulate the hyd. fluid to help cool the cylinder base.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

With BoxBlade attached. Here's a shot of cylinder fully extended.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Here's one with Top Link fully retracted.

OkieG

 

[GaryM]

Nice job. And it looks as if you have plenty of movement too.

 

[mountain_man]

Thanks mucho for the great pictures and text. It's one of the projects I have on my list... Any idea of the total cost?

 

[OkieG]

My record keeping is not very good. I think it breaks down about like this:

Rear hydraulic kit- setup for 4 quick disconnects... $250
Rear aux hydraulics were installed a few years ago
for backhoe. Can't remember what that kit cost.

Additional hyd. fittings, crimping of fittings, etc....$150
I opted out of the compression mount type flatface
o-ring fittings that camewith the Rear hyd. kit and
used crimpable JIC fittings instead.
So, much of this cost could be eliminated by using
fittings supplied in the kit.

Prince Valve- handles two cylinders, one with float...$150

Prince cylinder-not including Cat 1 swivels, 8" range...$70

Tractor Supply Top Link-Cat 1 swivels cut and welded
to cylinder...$20

Valve mounting bracket-home made, mounts valve to ROPS,
welded from scrap...$0

Prices are approximate, but within a few dollars, I think.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

The OEM hand-crank type Top Link is 18 1/2" minimum length and extends 8". I was lucky enough to find a cylinder with 8" rod extention that I could make 18 1/2" when fully retracted. So, the new hyd. Top Link has the same range and throw as the original.

OkieG

 

[Rch]

OkieG, what is more critical; how short the toplink will go or how long you can extend it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif It sounds like the Prince cylinder you found perfectly matched the excursion of the original hand-cranked toplink. I see deals on hydraulic cylinders that don't quite match the excursion of the original toplink (usually they don't collapse as short) and I'm leery of buying it. With my present hand cranked toplink I'm always running it short and can't ever remember having it nearly fully extended.

I realize different tractor/implement combinations are important and even a quick-hitch could change the picture but, in your experience, is the toplink excursion adequate and, if not, is it the "shortness "or the "longness" that is limiting /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Welding on your own ends seems pretty critical as to what you end up with the length. I know a year or so ago Bird did a T'n T and keeping the installation short seemed critical to its optimal functioning.