Draw bar stabilizer

[NHmitch]

I was having issues towing a trailer behind my G154 because at some point before I owned the tractor, the draw bar attachment was removed. I bought a draw bar stabilizer and it works very well so far. It is the A fram that attaches to your draw bar. I painted the drawbar and the stabilizer to match. I have just been using it with my old trailer that was built on a the axel of what appears to be a model T. Anyways, I just wanted to pass along information about a product that works very well.
This is where I found it at:
"Functional Accessories For Work & Play"

 

[JoeBuyer]

Looks great. My G154 still has the original drawbar but I have a similar setup as yours for the receiver hitch. But not as nice as yours.

 

[284 International]

That's a handy addition. I bet it makes the drawbar much easier to use. I don't know if it causes you any trouble, but if I were regularly pulling a trailer from that type of implement (I have one, but it's a receiver hitch style frame, that takes hitches as a receiver would on a pickup or SUV), I would strongly look into running a piece of chain from where the drawbar mounts up to the top of the frame, to keep it from rising up suddenly if the load is unevenly distributed front to back.

I would be interested in seeing more shots of that trailer. The woodworking is awesome!

 

[NHmitch]

Thanks so much for the comments. It has been very helpful, and I am going to try the chain idea, I have had the trailer come up on me before when I had it loaded with grain. The trailer is an old barn find, that I paid $50 for. It has the axel from a model T with grease zerks, and the woodwork is probably as old as the axel. They use to use it for pumpkins a long time ago, and it had plenty of old pumpkin stems in it. I will post some more photos. Thanks again!

 

[chupacabra]

I have basically the same set up and I can't understand where a chain would go and what it would do. I have looked and looked and can't figure it out. Could you explain it for me a little more. YEs, I am dense!

 

[284 International]

I would run a chain from the drawbar to the top of the implement where the upper link attaches.

 

[JoeBuyer]

Typically the chain would connect from the (adjustable) 3pt drawbar's top link to the standard (fixed) drawbar itself or to the standard drawbar's mounts. Or anywhere solid on the lower frame of the tractor. At least two very dangerous things can occur with 3pt drawbars. First as described above, the load on the trailer can shift behind the trailer axle and raise the trailer hitch which creates an unbalanced condition when the 3pt drawbar raises up. Remember that 3 pt hitches on most tractors can raise freely. Second, if you pull a load with the 3pt drawbar too high (above axle) and the load catches on something, your tractor could flip over backwards on top of the driver. This is one primary reason for ROPS. I always pull heavy loads or stumps with the standard drawbar (below axle) and the loader bucket low. It only takes 1 tractor accident to be your last.

 

[chupacabra]

I have enclosed a picture. Is this where the chain would go? What good would a chain do. Please excuse me for not seeing and understanding what you are saying.

 

[chupacabra]

picture here.

 

[284 International]

The chain would attach at the top where you have shown, but the bottom would attach to the tractor drawbar under the PTO shaft. The goal would be to provide a limiting point to how high the trailer tongue could go when fastened to the tractor.

 

[chupacabra]

Ok, I understand now. I was not thinking about the fixed drawbar, I was thinking of the drawbar on the three point hitch.. I get it. On my tractor I don't have the fixed drawbar, and mine is the same as NHmitch, and I was trying to figure it out using my tractor. Very clear what you guys were talking about now.

Thanks

 

[pacerron]

I have enclosed a picture. Is this where the chain would go? What good would a chain do. Please excuse me for not seeing and understanding what you are saying.

What he is saying is attach one end of the chain to the tractor drawbar which you may have removed or not have. It is the large heavy bar that is attached under the tractor transmission with a pin and lock which goes through a choice of holes depending on the implement. The portion that sticks out back of the tractor has a large hole in it to attach balers, rakes, tedders and other wheeled equipment. It usually has an S bend in it so there are two specific height dimensions from the ground depending on how it is inserted in the tractor mount.
You could have put a ball on there and pulled your trailer but the front of the trailer may be too low and cornering could cause problems if your trailer tongue is too short.
With a two wheel trailer you should adjust your tongue height so there is some downward pressure on the ball but too much is bad.

 

[NHmitch]

That actually does make pretty good sense since there is not down pressure, and the weight of the trailer can make the arms raise up. I think that I will have to make that addition. I wonder if I could just place the chain attached to one of the holes in the draw bar near the ball hitch? Thanks for the suggestion.:thumbsup:

 

[pacerron]

That actually does make pretty good sense since there is not down pressure, and the weight of the trailer can make the arms raise up. I think that I will have to make that addition. I wonder if I could just place the chain attached to one of the holes in the draw bar near the ball hitch? Thanks for the suggestion.:thumbsup:

They really don't hurt anything, but I was wondering why you have the
2 rubber bungy straps pulling your bottom links together in the picture?

With just a single axle trailer you have to be careful of how you load it to keep the tongue pressure somewhat balanced but a little down.
This maintains your tractor drive wheels contact with the ground and the trailer socket on the ball even if it becomes unlatched.

 

[284 International]

One thing about especially a single axle trailer is that putting a load onto the back of the trailer can make it into a teeter-totter. On a tractor without the lift restrained, this means the tongue of the trailer goes skyrocketing upward, and the shovel fulls of manure, gravel, bunch of children or what have you go tumbling down the inclined trailer deck. A double axle trailer will do the same thing, just not as easily, because of the shorter lever arm off the rear.

A similar thing is used on the three point backhoes to keep things rigidly secure: (Image taken from Koyker KB660 three point hitch backhoe attachment)

 

[boggen]

something just looks out of place to me....

why not wire up the "top link" to the seat of tractor or remove it. then lift up the 3 pt lower arms. and just put a ball on end of tractor?

perhaps i am use to pulling wagons, that have a long narrow piece of metal that connects to rear end of tractor. vs a regular trailer that would attach to a vehicle.

but having things hanging so far back behind the tractor. any sort of weight on front of trailer = front tires lifting up off ground. and any sort of weight on rear of trailer = 3 pt hitch lifting up, or possibly rear tires coming off the ground. causing rear of trailer to hit the ground.

 

[chupacabra]

Ok, since I don't have a drawbar under the pto, i would have to hook some limiter chains as shown in the picture. I see your point about the traile ball being so far back. But what if the load shifts to the back and raised the tongue of the trailer to high? Would the limiter chains shown in my picture work for me?

I have 3 bolt holes (plugged with plastic plugs) right under the pto. Could that be for a draw bar? If it is , that looks very weak to me. Disaster waiting to happen to the differential. I think the easiest and safest way is to just have the trailer loaded securely, with a hundred or two hundred pounds on the tongue, lift the trailer hitch a minimun off the ground, and proceed carefully.

 

[284 International]

why not wire up the "top link" to the seat of tractor or remove it. then lift up the 3 pt lower arms. and just put a ball on end of tractor?

One handy thing about a ball mounted on the three point is it allows a trailer to be lifted into position with no force or exertion, and without getting on and off the tractor.

The weight is less troublesome than one may think. Even a cheap box blade for these weigh 300 lbs, and carries its weight behind where the ball mounts. My equivalently sized Yanmars will lift a 500 lb disk, with the weight far behind the ball. Brush mowers are similarly heavy and even longer. If the tractor is drivable with an implement like these on back, the trailer will be easily managed. Most trailers specify under 500 lbs of tongue weight anyway.

So long as your chains keep the hitch from rising up too far, it will work fine. "Too high" will be a function of the tongue height for the trailer and the ball used. I like to limit the free play so that the trailer can be loaded at the rear without tipping. If your uses don't call for it, there isn't really a point.

 

[pacerron]

Ok, since I don't have a drawbar under the pto, i would have to hook some limiter chains as shown in the picture. I see your point about the traile ball being so far back. But what if the load shifts to the back and raised the tongue of the trailer to high? Would the limiter chains shown in my picture work for me?

I have 3 bolt holes (plugged with plastic plugs) right under the pto. Could that be for a draw bar? If it is , that looks very weak to me. Disaster waiting to happen to the differential. I think the easiest and safest way is to just have the trailer loaded securely, with a hundred or two hundred pounds on the tongue, lift the trailer hitch a minimun off the ground, and proceed carefully.

It is a little hard to see in your pic but where I added the red arrow is either your drawbar in a collapsed storage position or the entry to where one goes.
It looks like from your pics that you are running the drawbar you added between the bottom links at about the same height and your trailer tongue is
down to apply weight to the ball. As was said, the center balance point of your single axle trailer is going to vary depending on how you load the trailer.
A drawbar on an implement tractor usually has two holes so that the end where the implement hooks on is either 14" or 16" behind the PTO.
Larger tractors that pull heavy equipment such as balers with 1,000 pound or more bales in them or big wagons have the drawbar secured by a pin that is often less than an inch in diameter, so if what you are concerned about being a drawbar mount weakness really is the drawbar mount, don't be concerned. Think how big (tiny) a semi-trailer mount is for it's capacity.
Check your manual or a dealer or the internet to get the specs on your tractor, what the load limits are, and how the bottom drawbar works.
The tongue on your trailer looks like it would be plenty long to operate and allow reasonably tight turns with your tractor if you had a bottom drawbar
that was 14-16" long in the "for use" position. Always check though; you don't want to catch the front of your trailer box on your rear tractor tire in a turn.

 

[chupacabra]

Pacerron, that is nhmitch's tractor. Mine is just like it but without the drawbar you are seeing! Sorry for the mix up. Mine is an orange one. Mitch has the 4 wheel drive and I have the 2 wheel drive. Same Iseki tractors except for the drives. I wonder if he has that drawbar because his is 4 wheel drive? Who know's.