L3301 snow chains

[Wideglide]

Need suggestions on correct chains. Have r4 tires and cannot get enough traction to plow. Granted 24" of heavy snow is a problem, had a 30 year old tractor before with r1 tires a d never a problem plowing. Pretty disappointed in lack of traction.

 

[Topesrule]

You're going to need spacers.

 

[Wideglide]

You're going to need spacers.

Installed kobota spacers. Not sure if ladder chains will be sufficient for better traction

 

[Garandman]

I haven't bought chains for my L3200: after seeing a thread here I grooved my R4's, which works well on the driveway but not deep woods.

 

[Fallon]

I have the same tractor minus the emissions stuff...

I have both front & rear chains for my R4s. I got the rear chains just after getting the tractor over 2 years ago. Finally needed em this year & got motivated to put em on. Only to confirm what I'd figured out by then & as others have posted... They won't fit without spacers. The R4s aren't adjustable & are to close to the fenders.

I picked up a set of 2 link Vbars from tirechains.com for my fronts. Those kick *** & I can finally steers while plowing. They kick enough *** I'm no longer thinking about spacers or trying to get chains on the rear. I'm happy with my width & have no stability issues, so spacers would make it less maneuverable & the only benefit would be chains. Also I have a 61" blower on the 3pt & the R4s have a 60" track...

 

[Oldtink]

I like Fallon's idea of V-bar chains on the front. They'll be cheaper than rears and two steering becomes a real problem plowing with a front blade or bucket.
These chains Aquiline Tire Chains work well on my R4 tires with 2" of clearance between the fender and sidewall of the tire but steering is still a problem on a side hill unless I ride a brake which I dislike doing.

 

[s219]

I am thinking about chains for the front of my L3200 also. The rear blade can really "rudder" the tractor when moving heavy snow with a slippery base. The tractor doesn't run out of traction so much as it runs out of steering capability. So I think chains on the front would be a great improvement.

I think the only hassle for me is that I'd need to remove them before clearing snow on the concrete apron by my house, and at the street, and before driving into the barn. So it might take some planning -- use them for the initial passes to clear the drive and then take off.

 

[Wideglide]

I am thinking about chains for the front of my L3200 also. The rear blade can really "rudder" the tractor when moving heavy snow with a slippery base. The tractor doesn't run out of traction so much as it runs out of steering capability. So I think chains on the front would be a great improvement.

I think the only hassle for me is that I'd need to remove them before clearing snow on the concrete apron by my house, and at the street, and before driving into the barn. So it might take some planning -- use them for the initial passes to clear the drive and then take off.

I was wondering about that. I have loaded rear tires and counterweight. But putting chains on front may be the way to go. I have macadam drive and need to get into my paddocks to feed horses and cattle. Not sure which chains would be best.

 

[Ivan49]

How are you trying to move the snow? I have the same tractor and we had around 20 inches of wet heavy snow a few weeks ago and I had no problem moving it. I agree that the r4 tires are not as good as the ag type which I had on my other tractor but that is what I bought so that is what I will have to live with. I went a /2 mile yesterday thru about 15 inches od snow after it had settled and in a few places the wheels were spinning but it went ok

 

[Fallon]

I was wondering about that. I have loaded rear tires and counterweight. But putting chains on front may be the way to go. I have macadam drive and need to get into my paddocks to feed horses and cattle. Not sure which chains would be best.

I have loaded rears as well. Previously I had a back blade as well as my SSQA truck plow. They has different dynamics to be sure, but despite hanging way out front, the truck plow didn't push me around much more than the rear. Any extra leverage was offset by the much better visibility.

The gnarly wet pre-Thanksgiving snow in up to 3-4' drifts was the nail in the coffin. Neither plow could hack it. Heck I couldn't drive though it with both plows raised. After that I sold my rear blade & got the blower (wasn't expecting to find the deal I did until this summer, otherwise I'd have waited for the summer).

Both the front & rear plow would send me sideways with a similar push of snow. The front chains help a lot & I can now steer, but I'll still stall out on traction or go sideways on a big push.

I wanted some more gnarly chains, mesh or an H pattern, but they call my fronts lawnmower tires & only make ladders for them. Others make H pattern ones, but they are $300+ & I only paid $100 for my 2 link Vbars & tensioners I think. After seeing the traction I got I'm happy & wouldn't pay $75 to upgrade mine if I could. Some people wory about drivetrains strain running fronts only on a "front wheel assist" tractor. I think I'll be fine, but figure why push it with to gnarly of chains anyway.

The blower weighs more than the back blade by a fair bit & helps, especially if I pack it with snow (I usually try to to some degree when I start). But I think chains give me a fair bit more traction than an extra 1,000lbs of ballast would.

 

[motocephalic]

I have an l3200 and have loaded R1 tires. I recently put chains on hoping that it would end the traction loss on heavy snow days. I put on a new set of duo chains and I cannot believe the difference it made. I can now push any amount of snow with a tilted plow blade and keep it in any gear I desire without losing an inch of traction up hill. It took me two seasons to figure it out. If I had R4's, I would get a set, and I can safely say you'll be impressed. Last year I had 800# of wood in my carry all and I can say that chains easily out pushes that set up. I no longer need any weight at all.

 

[Garandman]

What are people buying for spacers for an L3200?

 

[Garandman]

Update: purchased Bro Tek spacers.

 

[SDT]

I was wondering about that. I have loaded rear tires and counterweight. But putting chains on front may be the way to go. I have macadam drive and need to get into my paddocks to feed horses and cattle. Not sure which chains would be best.

Two link ladders will be fine and are less expensive than Duo Grip or Duo Grip/ladders. Not too hard on asphalt.

SDT

 

[LouNY]

Two link ladders will be fine and are less expensive than Duo Grip or Duo Grip/ladders. Not too hard on asphalt.

SDT

I will have to disagree with that, on any hard surface be it frozen ground or pavement ladder dou-grip chains are bouncy riding and while they increase traction some they will slip especially on pavement.
The European or Aquiline Talon type chains are much better and actually smooth riding, they grip so well they don't tear up pavement.
Tire Chains-Studded-Tractor

Once you use this style of chain you will know that they are the best working chain for most any purpose.
I have tried most every style imaginable.

 

[Garandman]

Getting ready to install spacers.

Rear tires are filled 15-19.5. Will I be able to move them by myself to do this?

Torque value for rear wheels is 160 lb ft.

 

[LouNY]

Moving any loaded or just heavy tire is a balancing act,
On level concrete it isn't difficult, it can be hazardous,
keep the tire up right, just rolling it back and forth with slow and gradual turning by twisting it while keeping it squarely upright.
If you let it start to tip you have lost it and need to step out of the way and let it go.
I have moved loaded 20.8-42's just go slow, twist to turn, roll slow, and don't let them tip.

That said the best way is with equipment, an engine hoist works well.
As does another tractor with a loader or forklift.

 

[Garandman]

Did one wheel this evening.

Bro Tek (which is in Canada, not the US, if you care) includes hardware for these spacers, which are 2.5”. Think anything over 1.5” would work for chains.

Getting the wheel off was pretty easy. We have an 18V cordless DeWalt impact gun, and it loosened the nuts but not the four bolts. Had a 24” breaker bar and 3’ pipe so once I got them started they came right off.

Moving the wheel was no problem: getting the studs lined up was. Used a tip from here and put the wheel on a polyethylene sheet and that let me man handle it enough to get one nut started.

One little “gotcha” was that you had to reuse two of the lock washers from the OEM bolts. They’re captive....Had to put the bolts in a vise and lever them off. Otherwise, real straightforward job.

Used red Loctite on the spacer bolts. My 1/2” Matco torque wrench maxes out at 160 lb ft, which is the required value.

 

[John_Mc]

My NH TC33D (with filled 15-19.5 R4 rear tires) is similar size and weight to your Kubota L3301. I needed more traction to get up and down a hill in my gravel driveway which was proving impossible when things got icy or in hard-packed snow. I started out with 4-link, Ladder Style chains with v-bar studs. My thought was that they were less expensive and lighter than the 2 link v-bar ladder chains. I'd give them a try, and if the ride proved too rough, I could add cross links, converting them to 2-link ladder chains. They were very easy to put on, once I learned the trick - just a couple minutes per chain. They provided the traction I needed to drive up and down the hill while pushing snow with my loader or boxblade (I don't own a snowplow or rear blade that angles). Surprisingly, the 4 link chains were smooth enough to drive on hard surfaces at high speeds. Their shortcoming was lateral traction: driving on side hills in my woods was a problem. The v-bars help a fair amount over the bare tires, and I suspect over ladder chains without studs, but it was just not enough to be comfortable in the woods.

My next try was DuoGrip chains with v-bars. These provided both good forward and lateral traction, and worked well in my woods. They also had plenty of traction for getting up and down my icy driveway when removing snow. My issue with them was driving at even medium speeds on hard surfaces. I thought I was going to shake myself or my tractor to death. Just going down my +/- 1/4 mile driveway at anything more than snow removal speed was out of the question. Since I need to drive my tractor 5 miles between two properties over the road from time to time, these were out of the question. They were on my tractor less than one winter season. Had it just been driving through my woods (where the combination of moderate speeds and softer ground were just fine) or the relatively lower speed of snow removals, they would have been perfect for my needs. I still have them, in like new condition, but have not used them since that first winter. (they are for sale, if anyone in my area is interested)


I finally went with what I should have gotten all along, but originally thought were overkill or too expensive for my needs: the "European style" studded chains. I got the Ofa Eko 8 chains for about $500. Great forward and lateral traction, while still giving a very smooth ride on hard surfaces. There are other brands with similar styles which are also good. In my opinion, you can't beat this style chain for excellent traction and smooth ride. The studs may be an issue on pavement, but that's not a concern for me. Even if I do eventually pave the loop in my driveway near the house, I'll still use these chains, and just try to be careful to minimize spinning the tires.

 

[Garandman]

Moving the tire and even leaning it didn’t prove a problem.

Practice makes perfect: installed the left side in 23 minutes start to finish.