Tractor chains for snow and ice advice

[North to Alaska]

Hello and thanks in advance.
Just looking for advice on what to get for my tractor this winter…that won’t cost me a fortune
I have a fairly steep and approximately 15’ ridge to climb while hauling logs out. Logging my property for past couple years and selling firewood as I go. With a pto winch I can do so through the winter too and just plow the logging road I made.
The land is mostly flat but this ridge is going to a pain this winter.

I will be bending my fenders out to make enough room for the chains. But chains need to be tight or it could end badly. So i am particularly worried about the ladder style and any slop from them.

Definitely looking for advice from people with experience dealing with different chains in snow and ice. We get about 12’ if snow average around my area.
Here are possible options at this time:

My local Branson dealer has these for $643
Ladder style from Quality Chains

2615 - Loader / Grader Chain

Quality Chain Corp snow, ice, mud tire chains are high quality traction devices. The feature better durability, lower wear, and longer service time. These tire chains utilize cross cables made up of alloy steel rollers and can be easily installed.

qualitychaincorp.com

Glacier Chain Supply in Anchorage has these for $877
Aquiline MPC (Multi Purpose Chains)

Aquiline MPC 16.9-24 Tractor Tire Chains

www.midwesttraction.com

I can get these Piedmont Duo style from Tirechainsonline for $600 with free shipping to Tacoma Wa where Carlile MyConnect shipping can ship it to their Anchorage terminal for around $60.

https://tirechainsonline.com/part-no-duo260/

 

[CalG]

Any chain is good!

If you are counting on a tight fit to clear hard parts, You need to rethink, chains loosen!

I studded the tires on the Hurlimann, because there was just no clearence for chains. (I'm not disappointed!)

A day ago, I added to a set of light weight chains to fit the tires on the B2601. The heavy chains that were supplied by the dealer were Great for traction, but really tear up everything they cross. The "new" chains were repurposed from a garden tractor application. V bar in a smaller chain size.

Your need?, hauling out wood, in the woods, I might consider ring chains for economy.

If you want the "best", go with the "Euro/ logger style studded chains.

But where are you going to get the space?

My B2601 has wheel spacers to keep the chains from fouling the fenders.
Rubber tensioning means nothing if you travel at 30 mph.

 

[North to Alaska]

Any chain is good!

If you are counting on a tight fit to clear hard parts, You need to rethink, chains loosen!

I studded the tires on the Hurlimann, because there was just no clearence for chains. (I'm not disappointed!)

A day ago, I added to a set of light weight chains to fit the tires on the B2601. The heavy chains that were supplied by the dealer were Great for traction, but really tear up everything they cross. The "new" chains were repurposed from a garden tractor application. V bar in a smaller chain size.

Your need?, hauling out wood, in the woods, I might consider ring chains for economy.

If you want the "best", go with the "Euro/ logger style studded chains.

But where are you going to get the space?

My B2601 has wheel spacers to keep the chains from fouling the fenders.
Rubber tensioning means nothing if you travel at 30 mph.

I plan to bend the fenders back if needed. A crow bar will do
I looked at studs but they just won’t have enough traction on this hill.
I’m looking strongly at the aquiline mpc even though they are more expensive.

 

[hayden]

These cleated Trygg chains are excellent, but not if you need to run over pavement or concrete.

 

[BlueKnife]

I will be bending my fenders out to make enough room for the chains. But chains need to be tight or it could end badly. So i am particularly worried about the ladder style and any slop from them.

Do you need more clearance for the sidewall or the tread side of the tire? If it's sidewall, you need a spacer to bump the wheel out. If it's the tread side, you're asking for damage, regardless which style chain you choose. If you don't care too much about chewed up fenders then that might not matter. The pattern of chain isn't going to make a difference as far as that goes. The V bar or studded chains will cause more fender damage than non studded.

Studded chains give the best traction, followed by V bar, then square link, then standard.

I highly recommend getting cams on your chains. It makes getting them tight far easier.