Recent content by BigGG

That looks like a heavy one. You might not be able to cut a bunch of the biggest saplings it's rated for, but we use a 6' cutter behind a Ford 3930, which is 47 hp I think. You should be good. You'll need a loader or front weights.

I've found 2-4d+triclopyr CrossBow more effective against broad leaf stuff than glyphosate. Surfactant also helps.

I'm not a Kioti guy so I don't know what your set up looks like. But you could use a multiplier to use your existing valve. You'd have a selector switch, and the switch setting would determine which connection your lever controlled. Summit-Hydraulics.com is one vendor.

I would use J B Weld or aluminum solder. Then see if you can find a place or two to place a cross rod or two without interfering with the valve train. If you could get an all-thread or two from side to side, it could take the spread load from tightening the nuts.

Then plant kudzu for good measure.

Sounds like you have the 8x2 transmission? Maybe the vent is plugged. I didn't have that problem when I replaced the switch. But the vent drips, just like the dealer warned Dad it would, 30 years ago.

What does 'messing around with the air pressure' mean?

Yes, that's my thought. As for why more air in the water heater, I'm thinking the line to the water heater may be coming off the top of the main line.

This is a submersible pump, correct? Just a note, there are two different type air volume controls in the referenced article; the first is a diaphragm admittance type used with jet pumps. The other, which you have, is a bleed type first used with piston pumps that had a small air pump which...

Depends on what you have to work with. I once used the forks to loosen up a tough patch, then we cleaned it out with shovels.

I use 40:1 in all my 2-stroke engines. I think 2-stroke oil has improved since the 20-32:1 requirements were set. My Dad's old McCullough called for 30 wt motor oil at 16, maybe 8, to 1. I could be wrong, but I don't think the engine metallurgy has changed that much.

I see Lowes is trying to sell the LS MT122.

Pull the connector off. Then stick a u-shaped solid wire in to short across the contacts. Use a little tape to hold it and keep it from shorting to anything else. This is for just long enough to diagnose and confirm the problem.

When our 3930 started getting intermittent, I jumped the contacts in the connector. After a few starts proved it, I replaced the switch. Easy replacement. Be extra cautious while it's jumpered.

I have the drill and recip saw. They were bought from Damark, remember them?, in the mid-80's for $99 each. They have tiny engines, the drill has hammer but no reverse. Mine has a 5/8? conventional chuck.