Recent content by Harry in Ky

That looks like as good a choice as any.

That is simply a diverter valve, not a control valve. It has only one supply and one return so flow will only be in one direction. You will need to run that flow through a separate valve to change directions.

You unplugged the quick connects, started the tractor with nothing connected? You didn't turn the spool in the diverter valve before starting the engine? If so, the three point won't work but the system relief valve will get a workout.

You saw smoke and vapor out of the breather while cranking? If that's the case, added to the "no start", it's a bad sign. I'd pull the hose off the intake manifold and look closely for signs of dirt ingestion. A compression test would confirm your suspicions, but it probably isn't necessary...

A 4WD tractor w/loader for that price is going to have problems somewhere, and it looks like you found one already. I'm ASSUMING here that you bought this long distance and never heard it run? If it's a gear drive tractor you might have better luck tow starting it considering the circumstances...

If you have a Workmaster 60, it's a whole different system than the Workmaster 55. I can understand your frustration with it. All of the newer (2015 and up) Workmasters are a POS from bumper to drawbar.

I'm a firm believer in "simpler is better". That tractor is at least ten times less complicated than anything sold today. 320 hours (if that's accurate) is as close to new as you can get with a used tractor. Even if you could find something similar new for that price, you're still better off...

I won't say I blame you. I was never overly impressed with Mahindra over all, and not just that model. I was with a dealership that had Mahindra as one of their tractor lines when the 35 series was first sold new. There were a few problems with the Nimco valves that were commonly used on...

You mentioned "both filters". Is one of those the water separator under the right side ladder? I've found numerous problems with those and have eliminated many of them because of air leaks into the system. That said, another common problem is the inlet fitting on that filter. The banjo fitting...

I'm not suggesting the couplers aren't properly connected, I'm saying one of them could be bad internally, and only allowing flow in one direction. I've seen that before, and have replaced a few because of it.

Does your setup have quick couplers between the loader valve and the lines leading to and from the loader cylinders? Your symptoms could well be caused by a coupler that's not fully open to flow in both directions. Not a given, but possible.

Well I must admit you've had more than your fair share of failures with that hub. I've been through a number of them and have never had repeat failures to that degree. A few problems where I didn't get the nut tight enough, but none resulted in any gear failures. In the case of the photos just...

A "little wiggle in the hub" is no good. You can't run it that way or you risk more damage. Are those photos from the first failure or the current situation?

You asked for opinions. You have three already suggesting you stay away from it, (four now actually) but it sounds like you really don't want them. Remember, there is no free lunch, but if you're all that intrigued by it, then by all means, go for it. You might make a big score.

When I do it I split the tractor between the transmission and rear housing. I don't think it comes out the top.