Recent content by Kschwennsen

The Equal-I-Zer is nice but when you grease the points that squeak/grind, your removing the sway control.

Cross winds will push that camper around. I'm not sure your tractor load is as heavy as you think though. My JD 4105 is only 4K so unless you have filled tires, you're lighter.

the reason OEMs require WD at a certain load is because of the lift effect on the front axle. The more weight on the back behind the rear axle, the lighter your front axle will get, lowering grip. One of the reasons Gooseneck and 5th wheels are mounted so that the ball/pin is 2"-4" ahead of...

Curt also has their industrial class 5 hitches with a 2.5" receiver tube. Class 5 hitches are tested with extrapolated numbers to the higher ratings. There is a SAE 20K taskforce in the works but nothing has been published yet for test requirements. They should bump it up to 40K as Ford went...

V-5 is an old standard for testing this hitch. The industry has gone to SAE J684 for receiver hitches and SAE J2638 for gooseneck/5th wheel hitches. Really the whole "class" system is a joke as you'll find "class 3" receiver tubes on 2,000 lb rated hitches for vehicles "not rated to tow"...

That's a solid design. I would attach the sway control though. Either bolt it on or weld it on, you'll want it when it starts to wag back there! Otherwise you could have bought the TruTrack by Curt, that one requires no trailer drilling and uses active sway control, preventing sway from starting.

You're fine to use the same WD hitch on different trailer weights. anything in the 6,000-10,000 lb capacity probably uses the same bars (same size, material, heat treat).

As an Engineer in towing, I agree with most of the commentary in the video. One thing to always keep in mind is your system is only as strong as your weakest link. In this case, the ballmount was incorrectly used (never use a ballmount for shock loading), even the hitch bolted to the vehicle...

Not really forks but I added a receiver tube to my mask and now I can move trailers with the front.

I use a 6' tiller behind my tractor. a couple of passes and it's velvety smooth!

Sorry to hear that bud. I had my shop collapse under a couple feet of snow and it took the better part of a year to just put a roof back up. I still had lost my first car, my wife's car, lawn mower and countless other things. I had to pack my tools up and store them until the new roof was up...

So, I have a Millermatic 211. With it, I've welded sheet metal plate, rebar, angle, channel, I-beam, tubing you name it. I've made cranes and yard décor. It can run on 110 which is what I used to weld the I-beam into place when I removed a support wall. I usually run it on 220. It's a great...

Having a narrow driveway myself, I'd go bigger if I redo it at some point. No point in struggling every time I drive in/out.

I got a cheapy set online or at HF. it works good for smaller pipe (1" ok) but to thread bigger stuff, you have too have a good handle on the pipe or it will just spin.

If I were getting into something like this, I would drive from dealer to dealer and "benchmark" (copy) what others are doing. Tell the dealers you're comparing models and measure the critical parts, thickness being one of them. I'm sure it can be done but it's going to take a long time to...