The same hitch should work for both. However you may need different spring bars for the different weight trailers.
On mine you can change the # of chain links you put in the cam to change bend on the bars for different weights. I just did a 3.5hr tow(15k lbs) for the first time with the wd hitch that I've done without a few times before without. So much more pleasant, there are some undulations on the Chesapeake bay Bridge tunnel that really got it unpleasantly bobbing up and down without the wd hitch. It was comfortable with the hitch and I didn't have people flashing high beams at me since I got home after dark.
Yes, as mentioned above, you just don't tighten the chains up as much with a light load or empty trailer.
I have the 14K https://www.equalizerhitch.com/ which uses bars for my RV and sometimes we use the RV empty or with the ATV's or a TJ loaded so the weight varies but I have never needed to adjust anything because the it's all about the tongue weight, As long as the bars are strong enough to provide enough force/weight transfer of the heaviest load it will provide less when the RV/hitch weight is lighter.
That's a solid design. I would attach the sway control though. Either bolt it on or weld it on, you'll want it when it starts to wag back there! Otherwise you could have bought the TruTrack by Curt, that one requires no trailer drilling and uses active sway control, preventing sway from starting.OK, so I move slow. I'm the OP and this is what I bought. Got it on Amazon for $318 and I'm ready to use it soon. It seemed like the best $$ and it was the type that would not interfere with my chain basket.
It has a sway control bar that I probably will not mount because it requires drilling into the side of my trailer frame and I'm not sure I should do that.
It's a CornPro UT-18H open trailer as shown below. I usually haul 7,000-8,000 lbs but sometimes 10,000.
UT-H - Corn Pro Trailers
Corn Pro Trailers is Your Source for Horse Trailers and Livestock Trailers for Sale Across the US! Shop UT-H for Sale Today.cornpro.com
Thank you all for your help and guidance.
V-5 is an old standard for testing this hitch. The industry has gone to SAE J684 for receiver hitches and SAE J2638 for gooseneck/5th wheel hitches. Really the whole "class" system is a joke as you'll find "class 3" receiver tubes on 2,000 lb rated hitches for vehicles "not rated to tow". Remember, it's always follow the lowest rated component of the towing system. If the car's not rated to tow, your overweight.
Curt also has their industrial class 5 hitches with a 2.5" receiver tube. Class 5 hitches are tested with extrapolated numbers to the higher ratings. There is a SAE 20K taskforce in the works but nothing has been published yet for test requirements. They should bump it up to 40K as Ford went ahead and jumped their darn ratings yet again!