Recent content by Midwesterner

https://www.valtra.com/blog/Tractors/how-to-customise-your-perfect-tractor.html

True. That, a soft face mallet, or a block of wood in under the hammer all work well

That's always a good sign. So, for future reference, it took just removing the bottom snap ring and a hammer to remove?

Very true, its worked for me lots of times

Glad to. Let us know what you find

Ok, that is different than I thought. There potentially is a snap ring higher up that is holding it together. I would say to take the case off first, it will make everything much easier. Also, on the WSM, it takes a couple of weeks to get a Kubota hard copy, but to could buy an online one for...

Ok, in that case the snap rings should be what is holding it on. As rScotty said, pulling the 4 bolts will give you a better view and better access to everything.

Being an electric switch, I would start by checking the switch to make sure that it is working, and that power is going where it needs to go. Being as it is a $40 switch, if you are uncomfortable testing electrical controls, I would say try swapping it out and see if that fixes the issue. Also...

Can you post a picture of the underside of the case?

It is easier if you remove the entire final drive from the axle where it bolts together. Check underneath of the gear case, below the lower bevel gear. There may be a cap covering another snap ring underneath of the bevel gear.

Yeah, that .02 inch change is not going to be noticeable at all. RC changes of an inch or more is where the change becomes noticeable. It looks like Kubota offers a 12-16.5 factory R4 option, so you should be able to procure the rims you would need pretty easily.

Ironcomps by Tractorzoom, MachineryPete, Tractorhouse, AuctionTime

This, but I wouldn't go below 10 in the rears. I run between 5-8psi in mine, but they are each rated for more than the tractor weighs. A radial tire has to be aired down to a level that lets it flex and bulge out on the sides, otherwise one of the radial advantages is wasted. Keep in mind that...

Could you run R4s on the front and R1s on the back, provided that the rolling circumference is the same? You might have to purchase different rims, but this would get you both the traction and lift capacity that you want.

You're easily going to get the best price on buying a tractor with a loader already attached. Between the loader cost, brackets, install and anything else, the overall price adds up fast. As far as adding a loader, aftermarket should be cheaper, but might not hold its value as well as factory...