Recent content by RancherGuy

There is a saying here in Texas, "If you don't have a hog problem, you will have." I am on the river and have one. For years my initial solution was hunting, 120 to 150 per year, but when they didn't stop and I got tired of getting up at night and looking for them, I changed tactics a few...

They are extremely useful for finishing. You don't need a tall blade or high ground clearance. If the plan is to move large amounts or cover a large area, more capacity is needed. But for working a driveway or parking lot, they are great. A front or rear blade must have extra wheels in order...

Agreed - I would keep both. Sounds like they are non-DEF. If you are buying a new 25+ hp tractor, you would be getting into DEF, which would only be a continuous headache, especially as much use as you would give it. As pointed out earlier, HP determines your rate of cutting, either in width...

Another approach to your neighbor's $1200 hydraulic hose issue is to (1) only repair what fails, and not everything possible, (2) specify and shop around the complete replacement list, looking for a source that responds to "give me your lowest price for the whole", (3) buy a used...

I don't believe that the "3 point thing" (adjustment) will do what you need. It doesn't matter if a 3 point is at the bottom or somewhere in the middle. It is designed to not go lower than what you set it at, but it can go up. Therefore bottoming out has no benefit. Regarding land planes...

The pictures help a great deal. Being a paved road, suitable for automobiles, makes road slope seem to be a non-cause. From the picture of road departure, makes me wonder if the tractor operator had a medical issue.

See if you can determine the tire type. Most of my tractors have radials, but some are bias. On mine, the radials say 25 is max. I assume max only if carrying maximum load, otherwise I back off the pressure. All radials will squat - its just their design. What I do is put them on flat...

Have you found the right timing to tell him that you are using his tractor?

Did he also add the label "The exhaust may be hot"?

I didn't see a response, so try the unsplit, if you have left & right locked together. With the tractor in low, test the left and test the right brakes separately. You should be able to make the wheel skid with the brake. Once upon a time ... I bought a used L3800 with HST. Had 69 hours...

Depending on how much "modify / fabricate" abilities you have, ideas I might think of: 1) Create wheel spacers so set the tires out wider than factory? County mowers have some really wide settings. 2) Use a long pole or beam of some sort that is connected to the tractor on the "uphill" side...

Gotta say that I thought I knew what you were saying, and I agreed the first time around, until I re-read it. I thought you were saying, or intended to say, that the tension was adding to the bending load on the trailer bed. The reason I was thinking that is because I have seen that happen...

Want another idea to ponder? 25 years ago, we bought country acreage then sold our subdivision house. With the wife and the two kids still at home, we moved onto the place. Living was in a small 900 SF place for prior-owner workers. Those owners lived off-property. My wife and I agreed that...

Some ideas. This is the setup that I dreamed about for years. I started with the 25 gallon Fimco sprayer from TSC for the bed of my Mule. Legs broke after a while, so I salvaged the Fimco pump and wand and bought a 65 gallon poly tank from TSC. Custom added that setup to my non-FEL tractor...

JD X749: JD 997: