Recent content by wdchyd

So, your V packing (chevron) sets are very peticular about stack height. Too much and it squashes out too much, too little and they don’t seal. V packing needs to have just a smidge of correct tension to perform right. Most OEM seal kits with V packing sets have the correct squish up...

Yep, thermoplastic non conductive hose only if it’s going thru the boom. If its on the lower controls it’s ok to use wire hose but most bucket trucks are hosed with the same material to make it easy to rehose.

Yes, there should check valves after both pumps to prevent back feeding thru the pump you are not using. This assuming both pumps are feeding a separate set of control valves.

Those are known for eating motor brushes if running for long periods of time, they were designed for momentary use. The suction line fittings look skimpy, the pump may be having a hard time trying to pull oil from the reservoir, thus starving the gear pump and shortening it’s life. They made...

Looks to be a Monarch dc drive pump (Bucher Hydraulics now). The orange thermoplastic line would be your pressure output, the other with the elbow suction line, the smaller tubing line the return to tank if the built in relief valve bypasses to tank. These units I’ve seen used for emergency...

“Easy to fix for me, just cut off the end and silver braze a common end on and crimp a new hose on it. Yes it should have an Oring on it.” I use female braze ons to make crimp hoses if clearance is an issue.

I have conversion adapters for those, it will allow making standard hoses, measure the thread dia, TPI and pm me for more info.

For me….a tractor without a FEL is just a slow ride to the mailbox :ROFLMAO:

Mike, that’s exactly what happened to me but it was in the frigid cold weather, I suspect some snow/ice froze it or the rusty spring return was a bit sluggish. Which reminds me, time for another good dose of WD-Fixall.:ROFLMAO:

“I assume these cylinders can be repaired. Is that right? My little John Deere was made with a cylinder that was welded shut at both ends.” Yes, assuming your local hyd shop is capable and ambitious

Yes

If the spools don’t bind when the bolts are loose you need to get that apart and do it right. If they bind up after loose they ruined some of the housing sections or bent spools (check with dial indicator)

Common issue from a fresh repair, if any rust (very common) or grit between the sections will warp the valve section during torque up. The spools are machined to super tight clearances (less than .0005” sometimes) and one small speck of sand can bind up the valve. We use a new flat stone...

Just now seeing this…….bring the rod all the way out, then tap the gland (and the piston will follow) in about 1-1.25”…… you’ll see a around retainer in the groove, take it out…….then slam the whole rod assy out using a chunk of steel stock in the rod eye.

Joea99, if you were closer I could bend and flare steel lines while you wait, I have .250” to 1.500”. Some types of stainless tubing doesn’t like to bend or flare, you would need to specify annealed tubing.