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https://www.gundogsupply.com/hound-heater-dog-house-furnace-plus.html This is the brand I use in outside insulated dog houses for mine for the past 15 years troublefree. I have the older style with only 150 watts thermostatically controlled with no fan but a dry insulated dog house with a...

Yep, haven’t advertised in over 30 years. Just crossed over 45 in business and we are still slammed with work.

If you don’t have a local dealer for that tractor then best would be to high tail it to your nearest competent hyd repair shop with all parts in tow and have them matched up.

If the seal is getting pushed out then you have too much wear in the pump housing, gear set and wear (thrust) plate. Time for new internal worn parts or a new pump (which is cheaper most times)

https://www.pentalift.com/what-is-a-velocity-fuse/#:~:text=A%20Velocity%20Fuse%20is%20a,cylinders%20of%20the%20lift%20table.

Velocity fuse is another technical name for hose break valves, they are rated in gpm for the specific condition of extreme flow due to hose or fitting failure. Most anything that lifts a person and forklifts have them built in to the base of the lift cylinder.

More than likely the OP is referring to the four port steering unit (aka steering valve) that controls the steering cylinder. Very common to leak at the input shaft seal. And yes they can be resealed as long as the main shaft is not pitted too bad. Standing water at the outer wiper seal is...

Looks like too much return line pressure, maybe something added downstream without using PB port for a second valve or 3ph?

Case uses standard JIC flared fittings and regular steel tube. The tee will be special, if you can’t find the materials locally I have the materials to make it from our stock.

Glad it worked out

If you can’t find anyone locally to source these parts PM me.

Typically the number of turns is for new tubing and fittings, 1 to 1 1/8 turns is usual from finger tight. Nuts can be reused but replacing only the ferrules is problematic cuz the original ferrule distorts the tubing to give it the bite. It’s worth a try, the ferrule may be split. If you can...

Check your 3ph control lever, it might stuck in the up position, not allowing any return line flow out of your FEL control valve.

Getting the wrong seal kit is becoming more common as equipment manufacturers change suppliers that make cylinders. Hyd shops usually don’t carry prepackaged seal kits but make them up from bulk stock.

If DIN they will look like this. Although this tubing is larger (22 x 3.0mm)

While yes, they only might be need to be tightened, but resist the urge to over tighten, I’ve seen known good DIN fittings removed, cleaned and they leaked after.

Measure the OD of the tubing, they look like DIN fittings and metric tubing. If tightening doesn’t work you will need to pull it apart and find tubing and matching fittings avail at the dealer or a good hyd shop.

The delayed gush would definetly indicate a suction leak and oil draining back to reservoir when its not used

The proper flow/load meter temporarily installed inline just after pump (or before the first valve) would tell you instantly if it’s the pump or something else downstream.

What is the OD of the tubing? If a new tube isn’t in the cards the best approach is to cut out the bad section and sleeve over the existing tube, then silver solder, braze or tig weld. Where are you located?

Yes rScotty, the external relief valve would only be temporary enough to find the real problem. Generic direct acting relief valve and a few fittings are a great alternative to having another pump blow up. And it doesn’t have to be tee’d in directly at the pump outlet, but needs to be before...

The best after you repair/replace the pump is to put a direct acting relief valve tee’d into the pressure line coming directly out of the pump and run the discharge hose from relief valve to an empty clean 5 gal bucket. Preset the relief valve using another hydraulic source about 100 psi over...

Orezok, I have all those metric din fittings and tubing if you can’t find anything local to you.

Bnold…….did you post this on the wrong thread? Edit: yep, I see post #12 now.

A while back I picked up an 8-ton swaging press. I use it for swaging thermoplastic hydraulic hoses (bucket trucks etc). It originally was made for swaging 1 and 2 wire rubber coated Couplamatic hyd hose but all my Synflex type pushers and dies fit perfectly. Pretty neat system but I think...

The crimping mechanism is the easy part of hose making, whether it be a simple shop press or a dedicated crimp machine. Having the right fittings and hose materials in hand when needed is another whole different animal when you have a breakdown and in a hurry. Field attachable hose ends are...

Yes, it can with a positive displacement pump with no pressure controls built in. More than likely as others have said it will be some other form of mechanical failure before it reaches extreme. May years ago (35 plus years) in a hydraulic class the teacher said “every hydraulic system has a...

Having two control valves in series without PB and both actuated to full relief will double the pressures of both control valves. The diagram and video show only a few hundred psi to show theory, but using control valves with thousands of psi is dangerous. I personally was called in to...

front end loader

Just to show this came from a Vickers training manual. Same principle of multiple resistance in series valves.

Cylinders, valves, hoses, tubing do not care what oil you use. Pumps do. Usually it is the pump/hydrostat system that determines which oil to use in certain temps and conditions. Best to price out new pumps on your Kubota before using non recommended fluids, then ponder about prices of...

Having two control valves in series without PB circuit makes problems. The orings on the spools in valve number one will directly see any backpressure downstream resulting in premature oring failure. And if both control valves in series are operated to max relief pressure the pressure is...

Maybe it’s an issue with adhesion if the rod flexes under extreme use? Even chrome chipping off can be a real problem but I’ve only seen it on hyd rods with super heavy chrome.

Lol……I’m not trying to bash JD, just OEM’s using cheap alternatives to increase their bottom line. Yes, the nitriding is more eviro friendly during the manufacturing process, but so is using equipment that has a longer life expectancy instead of replacing early. My Dad used to work for Buick...

…….

Three more this week.

I’m seeing more newer plow equipment and a few refuse trucks using nitrited rods.

I see Brendon Casey talked about it https://www.hydraulicsupermarket.com/hydraulic-cylinder-rods.html

Years ago I was at a seminar about hyd rod materials sponsored by Fluid Power Society. It was an in-depth discussion about nitrited vs industrial hard chrome plated. Several points were brought up about nitrited rods. The Nitrite process is cheaper to produce hyd rods but removes the...

Dealer should be doing a flow/load test on the pump. Pressure gauge only is not a complete test. Pressure alone with a no flow condition doesn’t move a load. The proper pump test would only take a few minutes with no guess work. If it’s good then move on to another component. “Dealer says...

I like the water instead of using hyd oil as it is messy. Sometimes using heat before ruins the rod seals and makes it difficult to contain the water so another trick is to use greasy paper towels to pack in below the gland if the water gushes out, then slam the rod in. If the special removal...

……and, oh yea, before you fill with water reach in and push the piston head and nut to the bottom of the barrel. You don’t want to damage the piston, I’m sure the nut is already junk.

You’ve already sent in the gland to install the plastic removal ring right? Pull off the cylinder barrel from the tractor, stand it up on the ground, plug both ports, pour water in the gland hole nearly full, insert the hyd rod and pound it in with a dead blow or heavy hammer with only a few...

Hydraulic gear pumps are close tolerance thru mechanical interference between the housings, gear sets and end plates, during startup they undergo a breakin that wears the gear tips and housings to establish a running clearance barely worn. Smaller gear pumps have tighter clearances to achieve...

Seamless black iron pipe avail in hardware stores is only schedule 40 rating. Schedule 80 (aka extra heavy) or schedule 120 (extra extra heavy) has sufficient wall thickness for medium pressure hydraulic uses but understand although they have the same outer thread dimensions they will not couple...

Look close, it’s probably filled with crud. The factory needs the hole like you. If not, drill one, but don’t go too deep….:poop:

…….and here’s the finished spool just before final polish, ready to go back together.

And another weld up on a valve spool. This pic shows the corrosion before.

Here’s one of many I’ve done this past couple of weeks. This bucket cylinder rod today from a 88k lb Cat machine. 130mm rod x approx 7’ long. It’ll be going back together in the am. Edit: from a 145k lb machine (Cat 365)

BillRich, any new progress made?

So, back up a few notches. What led you to have a pump rebuilt? What symptoms was the tractor doing or not doing.

In order to definitely blame the pump you need to get the tractor to a shop that has a load/flow meter. Just pulling pumps apart to look inside and throw in a seal kit is not rebuilt. Get it tested first, if it fails buy a new pump, rebuilding a worn out pump is more than just replacing seals...

Adding to what Oldnslo said……a bad pump shaft seal can suck in air to lead to air entrainment and foamy oil.

Probably too embarrassed to say he bent them back dragging;)

Don’t start messing with your hyd valve till you test your lift cylinders, with those exact symptoms one of your lift piston seals are blown.

Don’t guess what the seals will be, strip it down and send them UPS to a hyd shop to match. If you had water in oil and the lift has been idle for a spell don’t forget to inspect for water damage as the oil and water will separate and rust the barrel from the inside from the water. If you...

Knock, knock, knock…….did anyone read post number 39? You could’ve saved yourself $250. I do this stuff for a living so I’m not just guessing. (……and don’t throw out your old valves, you’ll need them to help adjust the new ones proper when testing off the machine)

Lenny, you’re probably heading down that road to just cut the pins and deal with the pieces. Pulling the barrel off the rod is going to be some tough sledding, it will be a bear to work on under the truck body to do it right.

I’m my experience any air entrained into a hyd system after the pump would be caused by a suction leak at shaft seal or before the pump in suction lines, which leads to foamy oil, then when machine is idle the air separates. Air theoretically could be sucked in by a bad hyd rod seal but usually...

OK, I’ll check out the USPS rates and PM you

Only the cost of shipping. You want small slugs to practice on? I could do a USPS flat rate box. Larger rods could get pricey to send….lol

So, these valves are adjusted and tuned to suit manufacturers requirements for each direction. Two choices when replacing these, buy the preadjusted OEM cartridge valve from the lift manufacturer and plunk them in, or pretest existing valves on your existing cylinder (with known good new seals...

No contamination issue, go right over it. I did three more rods this afternoon. I have lots of scrap rods, too bad you are so far away.

…….and I’m pretty sure I have those valves in stock.

I quick way to find out if it’s the counterbalance valve or the piston seals…..raise the unit up off the frame, get it into the creep down mode, turn off the engine, then immediately support the structure with another piece of equipment just off the truck frame, remove the two cylinder hoses...

After polish Not the same rod as above, but you get the idea

Easy Peezy

TIG weld, get in and get out of the puddle and it won’t hurt the chrome. Fussy file and polish, good to go. Anything beyond this repair requires a new hyd rod fabricated, easily done with the right equipment.

Strip the cyl down to individual parts, walk in to your local hyd shop with the seals in hand and the rest of the parts in a box (in case they need to size up a groove ect), walk out with your seal kit and get after it.

Let’s not forget manufactures don’t make money on old cars/trucks, their only interest is vehicles making past the warrantee period. If you take a sample of oil from changing your oil at 5k vs 10k and compared it visually at 10k you’d think 10k might be too much (brown vs black). I change...

Good to hear JJ all is well, Glad retirement is good to you:)

So, your V packing (chevron) sets are very peticular about stack height. Too much and it squashes out too much, too little and they don’t seal. V packing needs to have just a smidge of correct tension to perform right. Most OEM seal kits with V packing sets have the correct squish up...

Yep, thermoplastic non conductive hose only if it’s going thru the boom. If its on the lower controls it’s ok to use wire hose but most bucket trucks are hosed with the same material to make it easy to rehose.

Yes, there should check valves after both pumps to prevent back feeding thru the pump you are not using. This assuming both pumps are feeding a separate set of control valves.

Those are known for eating motor brushes if running for long periods of time, they were designed for momentary use. The suction line fittings look skimpy, the pump may be having a hard time trying to pull oil from the reservoir, thus starving the gear pump and shortening it’s life. They made...

Looks to be a Monarch dc drive pump (Bucher Hydraulics now). The orange thermoplastic line would be your pressure output, the other with the elbow suction line, the smaller tubing line the return to tank if the built in relief valve bypasses to tank. These units I’ve seen used for emergency...

“Easy to fix for me, just cut off the end and silver braze a common end on and crimp a new hose on it. Yes it should have an Oring on it.” I use female braze ons to make crimp hoses if clearance is an issue.

I have conversion adapters for those, it will allow making standard hoses, measure the thread dia, TPI and pm me for more info.

For me….a tractor without a FEL is just a slow ride to the mailbox :ROFLMAO:

Mike, that’s exactly what happened to me but it was in the frigid cold weather, I suspect some snow/ice froze it or the rusty spring return was a bit sluggish. Which reminds me, time for another good dose of WD-Fixall.:ROFLMAO:

“I assume these cylinders can be repaired. Is that right? My little John Deere was made with a cylinder that was welded shut at both ends.” Yes, assuming your local hyd shop is capable and ambitious

Yes

If the spools don’t bind when the bolts are loose you need to get that apart and do it right. If they bind up after loose they ruined some of the housing sections or bent spools (check with dial indicator)

Common issue from a fresh repair, if any rust (very common) or grit between the sections will warp the valve section during torque up. The spools are machined to super tight clearances (less than .0005” sometimes) and one small speck of sand can bind up the valve. We use a new flat stone...

Just now seeing this…….bring the rod all the way out, then tap the gland (and the piston will follow) in about 1-1.25”…… you’ll see a around retainer in the groove, take it out…….then slam the whole rod assy out using a chunk of steel stock in the rod eye.

Joea99, if you were closer I could bend and flare steel lines while you wait, I have .250” to 1.500”. Some types of stainless tubing doesn’t like to bend or flare, you would need to specify annealed tubing.

https://www.psifluidpower.ca/customer/docs/SKUDocs/v20-service-and-parts-manual.pdf V20

In my work crossover relief settings on elec plow pumps (Meyers, Western, Fisher ect) are set at 3000psi. Main system relief only needs 16-1700 psi to do lift and angle functions

They are used for top links in case of valve spool internal leakage. Using that pilot operated check valve will do you no benefit in this application.

No, what you need is a cushion valve, aka crossover relief valve. But it doesn’t work very well with a single double acting hyd cylinder unless the cyl has a double rod. A pilot operated check valve is used primarily for work holding when a hose blows.

I’m still having the same issue on my iPad, for some reason my iPhone is not affected (yet). I get the “You’ve won…” add and it makes viewing TBN unusable.

Check to make sure your 3ph lever is not in the extreme raise position. It’s easy to bump it getting on/off seat.

Same here on my iPad. Really annoying

Hyd gauges are most accurate in the middle of the scale, I like 5000psi for most systems but add a quick connect to change guages.

The guy just won’t give it up. About the only thing he learned is how to take in free money.

Along this thought…….there’s a sign I’ve been wanting to post in my shop. “We love all our customers going through our door, some when they come in…..others when they leave” :ROFLMAO:

Navvet, after you get it out have your hyd shop cut at piece of hyd rod stock for a pin. It’s made from 1045 medium carbon stock and will work nicely. You might get lucky and he has a chunk in the scrap bin.

First I’d try the sawzall blade between the cyl and frame, using another person to constantly dribble water on the blade. Lennox makes a diamond grit blade if its hardened but doubt that one is. Second I would try a 90 lb pavement breaker and lots of air (1.00” air hose). Third, an Oxy-lance...

Those are used on several good sized engine lathes. The 5MT will fit the larger 26x120, 20hp. The 4MT works for the 21x60 15hp CNC lathe. Used mainly for opening up solid stock to make glands and collars before boring/threading etc...

I hate regrinds too, but sometimes you just need to get the job done at the moment. I have worn out two drill doctors, not sure but seems like the plastic housing wears and cuts the point wrong. Years ago I picked up a Sterling drill grinder and it works awesome above 1/2” to 2 1/2”.

Taiwan machines are great. My second one getting it’s official re-commissioning from the factory boyz this next week.

I don’t mind back dragging at all…it’s good for business😉 this one was bent in two directions, and even needed some gland work too.

KWentling, also the IHCP comes only in higher tensile strength at 100ksi. Many non hardened is 50k, 75k and 85k.

Case 580’s and other heavy equipment manufacturers use hyd valves with work port reliefs set at different values to protect the cylinders from induced loads. Although they can still bend a hyd rod it’s not as common compared to tractor cylinders with no work port relief.

Japanese (and British) 1/4” and 3/8” pipe threads are 1 thread per inch off. Be wary of accidentally mixing them up, it could be a thread crash. (1/4”-18 vs 1/4”-19….etc)

A test for the pump with a proper flow/load meter will tell you quick if your pump is ok. You could have a relief valve problem but having to rev up to make any pressure usually leads to a worn pump on older equipment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=51551+wix+micron+rating&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS673US676&oq=51551+wix&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i512l2j0i22i30l3.4578j0j7&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 it’s a 10 micron filter element, that’s pretty fine when used for a suction filter anywhere. Older Gear pump...

FWIW, I have seen some old Gresen spin on filters that were actually 100 mesh screens internally when opened up. Maybe someone down the line mistakenly replaced one of these with a paper type normal everyday return line filter element. That said I don’t like paper element filters used on the...

Might have blown the piston seal in that cylinder. Maybe time for a repack job.

BTW, turning the shaft by hand easily usually indicates a worn geroler section, not good

Fancy test machines are avail but unlikely to be cost effective for testing small low speed high torque motors individually. Testing on the lift with flow meter at the exhaust/return port and inducing a torque load should show adequate results (this assuming main pump is good and efficiency...

Yep, I see why they are not repairable, they crimped the two base covers on the barrel. I see plenty of air cylinders with the same setup.

Any pics of said accumulator?

Hmmm, never seen or heard argon used for this application. I’ve only used dry nitrogen when doing recharges.

FWIW, I believe they are not suppose to ship precharged nitrogen accumulators via mail or ups for safety reasons. (?) Compressed gas (in this case dry nitrogen) is considered hazardous or dangerous and either restricted or prohibited. So your local recharge place might be handy when the new...

Depending on where you are, there are deals to be had if you know what you want and willing to jump in the truck and drive asap to look and put a deposit on decent mills. I bought this Sharp 3hp, varispeed, R8, Mitutoyo DRO, power feed on table, Kurt vise ready to work for $1500. It was running...

Metal work is like simple arithmetic: Add……..welding subtract……machining Multiply…….cnc Divide……….cut off saw A decent vertical turret Bridgeport type mill and a metal lathe will help with the subtraction. And once you have a mill your old drill press will become a dust collector. Lots of...

Pixguy, we have an opening in the welding bay….;)

In July I signed up for A, B, D and G. When comparing price my new monthly costs to my previous BC/BS plan at work it’s a $800 month raise for me. And I won’t need the $3500 deductible out of pocket if the fit hits the Shan. That’s more fishing money:ROFLMAO:

Ya did well Jim, Happy Splitting

Best to practice with similar scrap metal before making any welds on your project. Always easier to weld it only once, Unwelding and redo can be a uuuge nightmare. Grinding out inside corners and inside 90’s is a great way to make more scrap. Always tack things in areas easy to grind out if...

One of the best ways to tweek your welding is get behind another experienced welder with your own shield, have them explain while welding to show you what it should look like. Then you can visualize in real time and see their welder settings.

I have those seals and lock wires if you have any trouble finding them. The lock wire material I buy in 6’ length.

Was the wire .125” square? Or .093”. Or round?

The original ring was bent in at a 90, enough for about 1/4” to go in the gland. If the bent piece wasn’t broke it would’ve followed the gland around when turning. The intent was for the square ring to rotate and come out of the slot in barrel. Find the end and pry it out enough to grab it...

The smooth surface you see is the lock wire, more than likely .125” square. You’ll need to get that cyl off and on a bench with the slot on top to see what’s going on with the lock wire.

Yes, a few. Look on the side for a slot, you’ll see an opening for a lock wire, the lock wire is suppose to come out when you turn the gland, unless the end of the lock wire is broken. Then you’ll have to get creative to pull it out while turning.

Maybe your talking about a Gates Quick-Lok?

Is your 3PH lever stuck in the raise position ?

Spanks, I use a waste oil heater at work but we generate about 2000-2500 gals of waste (mainly hyd) oil. The waste oil furnaces are nice but they are costly and use it up rather quickly. If I was using temp at a home garage I’d consider bullet type propane or kero heaters. YOuTube has some...

Here’s my contribution of Seat Time. Dusted off the Bota and had him digging to China. It was a workout for the puny BH.

Yep, standard double acting like you said. Maybe a bent rod? (Just guessing) The style I was thinking of doesn’t have the separate reservoir tank like your Williams PTO pump.

Mainly I’ll be using the lights for snow plowing. But lately it’s been getting dark when I just jump into action after a hard day at the office. My granddad used to say the only job that starts at the top is digging holes or gravedigger. He’d be proud of the holes I’m making with my tiny tractor.

Is there a breather cap on top of cyl at the rod end and another hose connected to a port on the bottom underneath also at the rod end? If so your cylinder is single acting and they are using the front half for a reservoir to feed the PTO pump. if the breather is gushing out at end if stroke...

Not sure, if not I’ll make something up with a piece of SO cord, fuse holder, hopefully a dash switch. I see TSC has a few LED choices I’ll check the local store

I figure the TBN Braintrust has lots of good advice, links and pics. Looking for any ideas on mounted LED lights on my ROPS bar for my Kubota B2320 TLB. I’m tired of the dark kicking out of my seat when things to do (digging, plowing etc). Preferably I need better lights forward and back...

Just look very close at the mounting flange, they seem to crack easily at the seal area

Seal kit #60540-000

I still have a hard time with you twisting fittings at all, those fittings should have almost shredded the hose before moving. I’ve been making hyd hoses since 1985, never once had fittings leak through the fitting. I’ll bet someone used the wrong crimp dies or didn’t have their adjustable...

You’re right about the outer cover not holding pressure and it’s only protecting the wire braid underneath. But the problem is the wire braid they all use is steel wire instead of stainless steel wire. The stainless steel wire has less tensile strength than steel. So yes in the long run it is...

Tinhack, what was the USA brand of hose and fittings did they use? A crimped end that is able to be twisted? That’s not right, I would’ve sent all those back if they didn’t know how to crimp using factory specs. They will blow off when you are in the middle of a big job. In the end quality...

Jim, hose fabricators have lots of choices. Yes there is a difference in cheaper hose assemblies, they can be 1-wire vs 2-wire, Asian vs North American. Some manufacturers are masking lesser quality with higher pressure ratings but still use 1-wire hose for more flexibility. At our repair...

No problem for the right repair shop if they are set up. This cyl was previously professionally welded and failed after a few months after the crack migrated. Here’s the before, during and after of the right repair.

Yep, those are not SAE ORB ports.

The right way to do it is pull the cyl apart, machine off the buttplate, tig weld the root and cap weld the outside. If you weld it only on the outside only it will only be a temp repair cuz the crack will push its way out eventually.

X2…..and maybe he’s mixing up pipe thread and oring boss port fittings and hoses popping out?

https://store.usesi.com/hubbell-wiring-073041282-bus-drop-grip-1-1-25-inch-kellems-reg-63128 I like these, they do make different sizes

Best to ask your local rental and construction companies who they go to most. There’s tons of good small shops and the best ones don’t need advertising but are well equipped for their repeat customer base.

If your local shop doesn’t do honing you need to keep searching. All competent hyd repair shops hone cylinders. I can hone as small as .125” up to 12” bore x 18.5’ long. If your cylinder is binding then likely you have a dent or burr, or hyd rod or barrel is bent. Honing a significant dent...

Call me lucky or skilled, likely I’ve rebuilt more cyls than most people can count. I’ve only been rebuilding cylinders full time for the last 45 years. Heating the seal is only a waste of time and energy.

only thing I can add is we use a small square (1” x 1”) square of thin shim stock (.010”) or a piece of alum soda can to put under the worm on the hose clamp to protect the seal when tightening the clamp. Works perfect and quickly. No need for all this special tool stuff. While boiling seals...

You did good to catch it before it backed off on its own. The 6’ of pipe and 100 lbs is the best way to retorque if no other means avail.

Check the 3ph raise lever, I’ve seen a few that were stuck in the up position and the lever was trying to raise the 3ph not allowing any return flow from the FEL loader valve. …..or above suggestions

Is it what I call a crosshead? OD(?) x 1..0O” pin x 2.50” long?

Where are you located?

If they are gonna be cheaper to buy, maybe the glands are damaged and egged out? Maybe the barrel is scored from the piston canting sideways? If it’s just a bent rod plenty of good small hyd shops or machine shop that could make it reasonably. I’d do it if you were closer. Take it apart and...

I agree with Oldnslo. I make port blocks all the time to test rebuilt cylinders without the lock valves.

I’d say maybe your factory rep needs a refresher course on hydraulic troubleshooting. Your pump should be putting out full pressure even at idle (unless the pump is bad). If it requires revving up to produce full pressure then a flow/load meter will be needed to test pump properly. Even with...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPCFl_NHcsm/?utm_medium=copy_link Not sure if this shows up, but it’s a hyd motor similar to yours (different brand) under a pressure dynamic test using our 100hp Dyno

Funny thing is...Tyrone was originally manufactured in Corinth Miss 5 miles from the grandparents home. I remember as a kid in the 60’s my granddad bragging about Tyrone Hydraulics, long before I even knew anything about hydraulics. Lots of memories in Tn, I was born in Memphis.

It’s not gonna hurt, most places won’t use anything but #2 grease on the brass thrust plates, du bushings and seals while the hyd oil is priming. It’ll all wash away once it gets oil moving. Best run things slow at first without a load.

Looks like an M20 series Tyrone motor. Now owned by Parker.

That’s great, you’ve found the problem.:)

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=weighing+tongue+weight+with+bathroom+scale

If the dealer replaced valve and repacked cylinders I’d say they were guessing at the issue and didn’t do proper testing to rule out the valve or a cyl. I’ve seen the OEM seal kits that MF uses on their cylinder rebuild kits and they are plain Jane orings and backup rings. If you go to the...

Dm-in-mn, Try something for me: tractor at idle.......empty bucket...operate DCV to lift cylinders.....from full stroke of the valve spool, cylinders extend halfway up stop movement quick. Have someone watch the cylinders if you can’t see them. Do the cylinders?: A..........stop immediately...

“I had bad seals on the piston on one of the bucket cylinders on my Massey. The cylinder would droop down slowly when just mowing the field, and if you had a bucket of dirt it was so bad you would have to apply constant hydraulic pressure to the bucket to combat the drift. It would dump a full...

Sorry if everyone out there feels like I’m wrong on the piston seals being bad, maybe I should just keep things to myself. After all anyone with a keyboard is an expert in guessing. OP please enlighten us when you find the problem.

One of your lift piston seals are compromised, you’ll need to rebuild lift cyls

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393097025778 Gates makes the banjo crimp ons, I have both but prefer the JIC adapter if a choice is needed.

.......and definitely do not have a new tractor delivered to your house on her birthday...she’ll remind you every year:ROFLMAO: BTDT

........oh yea, another thing......sometimes the person that is repacking the cyls scratch the inside under the rod seal with oring picks when removing seals. 🤬

I’d bring them back for a warranty repair or find a new shop. Either they were too blind to notice damage on the hyd rods or they didn’t polish inside the gland area to notice rust (more than likely the issue) or the glands are worn in excess or they cut the seal going in. Plenty of so called...

https://www.grainger.com/product/ENERPAC-9-7-16-in-x-6-13-16-in-x-7-46C557 Here’s the Enerpac version. Be aware most hand pumps available are capable of delivering 10,000 psi and the Magliner Trailervator uses two single acting 1.500” dia plow rams rated for 3000 psi. The Commercial and...

That’s a Commercial wobble pump, it was popular years ago cuz the pump action is up on both strokes on the lever. If the spool broke likely the rubber boot that is missing has been gone too long and allowed water to enter and rust up the pump piston (you called it a spool) Blackhawk and Enerpac...

Liberty, I’m just down the road from you, bring in some samples.

Cleanburn......IMHO Best on the market. The first one we had for 19 years with only minor repairs halfway thru (burner rebuild). Our second one (250k btu) is 6 years old and we have 5900 hrs on the meter and has only had a yearly cleaning in combustion chamber, never any issues, same nozzle...

We burned just about 3k gallons in our shop, in the dead of winter we are working in short sleeves with free heat.

Oldnslo, The TA1919 uses a wafer plate that is right or left, if it was his case the two wafer plates could be swapped around between the pumps. But as he says I seem to recall the TA15 pump rotating group is directly riding on the housing, similar to PVB series piston pumps. Not sure, but...

Lol.......not that kind of motor. It traveled from Billings MT and it won’t be moving anywhere soon. Electricians are wiring it this week.

Yes, ridiculous. I looked around my shop for a sample of the sleeve or at least a closed center conversion plug to use as a sample. I have the technology at work to make this adapter on a cnc lathe. The closest I found was a junk Gresen monoblock under a bench with the plug removed. We...

Three choices I see..........unless you want to rig up the bungy cord.

Pressure relief valve

Yes, the plugged spot is for changing that Gresen SP valve from open center, closed center or power beyond. The correct plug you will need will be longer with a seal at the bottom and a hole straight thru and threaded for a port connection to go to the next valve inline.

Glad it worked out for you. You may want to update the other two cylinder piston seals in the future. Some shops use compressed air, unfortunately it is not a proper and accurate test of a cylinder rebuilt. Our test unit is rated for 3000 psi but is capable of intensification of up to 5000...

Here is a good example, this and 4 others with the same issue was diagnosed as a bad control valve, when the new control valve was installed the previous two mechanics gave up. It took me minutes to diagnose and and all 5 cylinders had completely rotten seals. These were stabilizers on a...

Use a scrap piece of alum or brass to strike it with hammer straight in. Don’t ding the rod, the softer alum or brass will not damage the gland if you hit it straight in.

Correct me if I’m wrong Scotty (and others), but my take is the OP is talking about threads on the cyl barrels, not a fitting. Here’s what can happen if no one put neversieze or grease on the threads on an old repair. One cap came off hard, the other had to be cut off.

More than likely this is what happened.....and they smashed it back together and welded it.

That would explain you asking about the leather piston cups. Here’s what belongs in those two grooves, either of these two styles.

Here’s what they look like without hole

Box blades are awesome for plowing and slush touch ups, makes nice square cuts on the edge of driveway.

PM your address.....I can cut you off a piece of 30 x 3.0 mm tubing

Another option is to braze on a male JIC tube end and make a new hose to fit.

Or take cyl apart, cut off elbow and weld one of these on.

It would’ve been here ......if there was one. You may be better off trying your compression fittings cuz to only other way would be to remove the elbow on the rod end and weld it back together.

New Hampshire Muzzleloader Opening Day......... Went out at first light with a buddy to a spot in southern NH somewhere between here and there. A little brisk early, found myself on a pussyfoot spot and stalk still hunt. 2.5 hrs into the am I thought I jumped up a buck, but soon realized he was...