New Member With Implement Questions

[Dranrab]

Hi folks. Great forum and great group of members here. I have been reading fairly extensively here over the past several days and have been learning quite a bit. My newbie questions are going to be about implements rather than what tractor to buy. I am slowly closing in on the right tractor for me.

I have 10 acres in South MS. About 2 1/2 are cleared in some fashion. The parcel is pie shaped with intermittent creek beds along the edges. It's high and dry in the center. The soil is somewhat sandy with some light clay. The land had been mostly clear cut about 10 years ago. Some nice hardwoods were left along the edges, so it's going to be pretty when I am done. Some pines up to about 12" in diameter were left scattered about. I had a forestry mulcher come in and clear about an acre at the back. He cleared about a 20'x 300 foot driveway leading to about 3/4 of an acre cleared house pad in the middle. Then I had him clear about a 6' wide walking path completely around the perimeter. It's right at 1/2 mile long. I also had about a 30x100 strip cleared off to the side so that if I decide to bring in a shipping container or build a metal building I will have a place to kind of hide it.

The land was a tangled **** of yaupon and other assorted brush. I can walk through anything, but this stuff was impenetrably thick. I mention that to give you an idea of the root mess that lies beneath the surface of the cleared areas. That and some decent size pine stumps. With the walking path, I just want to level it off and smooth it out. some grass will eventually grow back in. I want to haul in some gravel or lime rock and distribute it out over the driveway. I will also need to install a small culvert in the driveway at the road's edge. I want to smooth out the house pad area and eventually get grass to grow there. The house won't be built for five or so years. The back acre will be planted in food crops in the spring and summer and a food plot in the winter.

For leveling gravel and dirt, am I better served with a grader/scraper or box blade implement?

For preparing the back acre for a crop, will a disc harrows cut the yaupon roots up well enough or would another implement be better. Do I need a tiller if I have a good disc?

If I bring in a container or build a garage, I'll have some red dirt brought in to firm up the foundation. I'll need to scatter and level it. Is a box blade or grader/scraper the best tool for the job?

When I shop for a bush hog for the walking path and the house pad, since I will likely hit a stump every now and then, do I need a bush hog with a clutch? If I get a tiller do I need one with a clutch?

The soil at the road's edge is fairly soft. I know it isn't ideal, but is the FEL on a 25 HP tractor capable of trenching enough to install a 12 inch culvert?

Any other suggestions?

I am brand new to all of this and still very ignorant, so if my terminology is incorrect or I seem confused about something, please clear me up.

Thanks, Paul

 

[jeff9366]

I know it isn't ideal, but is the FEL on a 25 HP tractor capable of trenching enough to install a 12 inch culvert?

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to identify potential tractor applications first, then determine bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second and (narrowly) rear wheel ballast third.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

Twenty-five horsepower tractors vary from 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight to 2,800 pounds bare tractor weight. A 2,700 pound bare weight tractor will be enough for maintenance on your land if you are a patient operator.

Clearing stumps and trenching for a culvert is work for an excavator. The wear and tear you will inflict on a 2,700 pound bare tractor weight tractor will exceed the cost of bringing in an excavator which is designed for this work. Have all the stumps removed from your paths. Twenty-five horsepower can only spin a light-duty 60" Bush Hog. Hitting stumps with a light-duty Bush Hog regularly will have it in the shop for new, straight blades every six months. Nor will the light-duty Bush Hog gearbox survive repetitive stump contact.

Tractor Loaders on 2,700 pound bare weight compact tractors are designed primarily for lifting. Tractor heavy work should be accomplished via Three Point Hitch mounted implements. Tractor are designed to PULL.

I want to haul in some gravel or lime rock and distribute it out over the driveway. YES

 

[jeff9366]

The land was tangled yaupon and other assorted brush. I can walk through anything, but this stuff was impenetrably thick. I mention that to give you an idea of the root mess that lies beneath the surface of the cleared areas.

I do not understand the past tense 'WAS' used here. Is Yaupon a problem or not?

A moldboard plow, either a single 14" or a double 12" will turn up all roots. Another option would be a three tine or four tine Field Cultivator, which will comb out considerable trash. PHOTOS

MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/339095-dirt-dog-all-purpose-plow.html?highlight=

You will probably need to use Southern Ag Herbicide's Crossbow, Rural King's Crossroad or Gordon's Brush Killer in a one gallon sprayer to kill regrowth after six months. These are combinations of 2,4-d and Triclopyr.

Then go over the plow rutted land with a PTO-powered Rototiller to smooth it in preparation for seeding. For the light tractors you are considering a Rototiller will be more effective than a Disc Harrow. A Rototiller is also heavy, compact Three Point Hitch counterbalance for heavy FEL lifts.

 

[Dranrab]

I do not understand the past tense 'WAS' used here. Is Yaupon a problem or not?

A moldboard plow, either a single 14" or a double 12" will turn up all roots. Another option would be a three tine or four tine Field Cultivator, which will comb out considerable trash. PHOTOS

MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/339095-dirt-dog-all-purpose-plow.html?highlight=

You will probably need to use Southern Ag Herbicide's Crossbow, Rural King's Crossroad or Gordon's Brush Killer in a one gallon sprayer to kill regrowth after six months. These are combinations of 2,4-d and Triclopyr.

Then go over the plow rutted land with a PTO-powered Rototiller to smooth it in preparation for seeding. For the light tractors you are considering a Rototiller will be more effective than a Disc Harrow. A Rototiller is also heavy, compact Three Point Hitch counterbalance for heavy FEL lifts.

The mulcher took the yaupons and other brush down to ground level. Now I have to eliminate the root network. Last weekend I spent some time spraying brush killer on some of the regeneration growth. I'll do some reading on a moldboard plow. Thanks for that info.

 

[jeff9366]

Moldboard Plow will INVERT the soil. Everything deep will be brought to the surface, with the deepest soil/roots on top. There the sun will dry out the roots, killing about everything. Almost nothing but trees have roots growing deeper than 6" to 8".

Downsides:

Land will be rough after plowing.

Dig a pilot hole to determine how deep your top soil is. You do not want to mix infertile subsoil into fertile top soil. Moldboard plows for compact tractors come in 12", 14" and 16" increments for this reason. 12" is the classic "sodbuster" plow. But if thin top soil is not an issue another 2" does not hurt.

It takes some experience to become a proficient plowman. Faster to learn a single-bottom plow than a two or three bottom plow.

 

[Jchonline]

I agree with Jeff and second the decision on an excavator for stumps. It sounds like you could use around a 5-10 ton machine. The bigger the quicker it will pull up stumps. If you have the room for it, a 20 ton will pull them out in seconds. It is all about weight and counterbalance...these huge machines have all you need. If you dont have room for it, then a smaller mini-ex at around 5-10 tons would get the job done. If it is really tight you might get by with a skid steer and a tree stumper, but they take a bit to get used to as well.

For tractors Jeff has you set. You need weight for moving dirt/plowing. You need HP for a mower. Do you need/want a cab?

I would say somewhere around the Kubota L series size. Other brands include Deere, Mahindra, RK, LS, Kioti, New Holland (its an LS), Massey Ferguson, Branson...and I probably missed a few. As Jeff mentioned find a good dealer that has in house service and longstanding business.

 

[jeff9366]

Dranrab

For leveling gravel and dirt, am I better served with a grader/scraper or box blade implement?

A Box Blade is for transporting dirt short distances and leveling where you deposit dirt. (Cut off high areas, transporting spoil to fill low areas.) Moderate to long learning curve but skill worth having. Good in both fields and dirt roads. Final smoothing often accomplished via backdragging FEL bucket. Good Three Point Hitch counterbalance for heavy FEL lifts.

Land Plane/Grading scraper transports material only incidentally to leveling. Very short learning curve. "Recovers" gravel as it levels gravel roads.


For preparing the back acre for a crop, will a disc harrows cut the yaupon roots up well enough or would another implement be better. Do I need a tiller if I have a good disc?

Plows invert soil.

Disc Harrows and Rototillers do not invert soil, both mix soil, re-burying a portion of Yaupon roots. Light tractors operate Rototillers much better than Disc Harrows. Sometimes fresh roots wrap around Rototiller tines. Research 'L' shape tines Vs 'C' shape tines.

Parabolic tines on a Field Cultivator actually pull out roots, corms and other trash which then must be disposed of, usually my burning. Short learning curve. Deepest potential penetration, controlled by operator. Levels a little during operation.

If I bring in a container or build a garage, I'll have some red dirt brought in to firm up the foundation. I'll need to scatter and level it. Is a box blade or grader/scraper the best tool for the job?

Foundations do not comprise large areas. Backdragging FEL bucket for smoothing will suffice. Have the ROPS up and seatbelt fastened.

 

[3gunr]

I recently put a 12 inch culvert at my daughters house the driveway had been in for 2 yrs so it was hard packed rock .I was able to dig it out with the fel by starting at one side and take small bites took about an hr and i was surprised my 2810 was able to do it. so it can be done.

 

[3gunr]

Ifh you get a box blade you can use it to rip out roots also by lowering the shanks and tilting forward ,not ideal but it will work and your only buying one implement.

 

[3gunr]

Ifh you get a box blade you can use it to rip out roots also by lowering the shanks and tilting forward ,not ideal but it will work and your only buying one implement. I would get clutches on tiller and brush hog much easier than shear pins. Older cultivaters around here are fairly cheap so that is an option.