Same here. I go just slow enough ground travel and engine/broom speed appropriate for the gravel amount.
Landscape Rake to get gravel back onto road?
- Thread starter Kubota Dave
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- gravel landscape rake
FERLING
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2018
- Messages
- 331
- Tractor
- New Holland WorkMaster 50
Works for me and saves on not having to purchase additional gravel.
Angle 45 degrees and throw gravel back to center. Then straight (no angle) and two swipes down center of gravel driveway. Repeat when necessary.
ismilelots
Bronze Member
I used my landscape rake for that for a while. But then I got this heavy duty dethatcher from Good Works Tractors. It works much better and is also better at maintaining my gravel driveway and cleaning out the goat pen.
Heavy Duty 3-Point Dethatcher Rake (60") CMP Attachments
The HD 3-Pt Dethatcher from CMP Attachments is perfect for collecting thatch, seed prep, raking pine straw, grooming arenas, and even raking leaves!
www.goodworkstractors.com
TORQUIN
Silver Member
Another possibility would be this: Driveway Scraper - Driveway Scraper
It pulls the dirt/gravel from the edges towards the center. It works well to level everything out since the landscape rake creates windrows in the gravel.
I still use the angled landscape rake on my driveway also, though, usually first, then switch to the driveway scraper.
Chris
It pulls the dirt/gravel from the edges towards the center. It works well to level everything out since the landscape rake creates windrows in the gravel.
I still use the angled landscape rake on my driveway also, though, usually first, then switch to the driveway scraper.
Chris
BufordBoone
Gold Member
I have a 1 mile gravel driveway. I also have hydraulic top and tilt.
I use an angled landscape rake to bring gravel back onto the road. I adjust it so that it is slightly above the crown and then float one side. That makes it follow the crown while bringing the gravel back up.
It does an OK job. Usually takes 2-4 passes each way to get most of the gravel back in the road.
I then switch to a Land Plane Grading Scraper. I run it with one side in float so that it also follows the crown.
That system works well for me and I've not needed gravel in about 5 years...but I do now. I figure I'll need 4 loads every 5 years?
I have a scrape blade but it drags too much dirt with the gravel. Landscape rake is not ideal but it is the best I've found.
I use an angled landscape rake to bring gravel back onto the road. I adjust it so that it is slightly above the crown and then float one side. That makes it follow the crown while bringing the gravel back up.
It does an OK job. Usually takes 2-4 passes each way to get most of the gravel back in the road.
I then switch to a Land Plane Grading Scraper. I run it with one side in float so that it also follows the crown.
That system works well for me and I've not needed gravel in about 5 years...but I do now. I figure I'll need 4 loads every 5 years?
I have a scrape blade but it drags too much dirt with the gravel. Landscape rake is not ideal but it is the best I've found.
TugHillDog
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2011
- Messages
- 66
- Location
- btwn Canada and the Adirondack Mtns
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2645 Cab
I also have a quarter mile gravel roadway to maintain. I started out with a York rake to maintain it and when I upgraded tractors, I bought a used land plane from the dealer. This animal is the one! Even for someone like me!! I adjust the left/right cant with the lift arms on the 3point to match the crown I want and drive down one side of the road and back on the other. Even the best of potholes and occasional washboarding have no defense against this device. Just make sure you grade down through the bottom of any pothole otherwise you are just filling a hole with gravel ( and will soon have it empty again).
Landscape rake with gauge wheels is very good for getting in gravel from the sides of the road. Set rake tilt to match crown and angle rake from outside in to center to help move gravel in. Important to fill wheel ruts in. As another has commented, you have to cut down far enough to loosen material in potholes not just push material into them. Any pothole which catches water will drill itself deeper and deeper into road as cars drive through it. If you see potholes, best to do a quick rake whenever potholes start to develop. Don't let them get big. Hydraulic angle and tilt for rake is a real timesaver.
Problem is that any leaves and trash which have settled on the outer foot or so of the road are balled up and brought in, too. You have to stop and fork them out, so organic material is not mixed into the road, making it soft.
10 years ago I bought a very powerful 13 HP Billy Goat blower. Now, in the fall I make a pass up and down the road after most leaves fall but before they get so much rain they are waterlogged. I leave the ditches completely clean. Much better for winter storm drainage, and prevents washouts when plugged ditches force water back onto road surface.
When I rake, I get more clean gravel and road material back and I don't get as much leaves and trash in what I bring back. If I am raking at other times of the year, I usual spend an hour blowing the road sides clean before starting if they aren't completely clear. I haven't had to buy as much additional road material since I started blowing off trash.
When raking, it sames me time if I don't pick a day when road is completely dry and hard. You don't want a wet, soft surface, but a couple of days after a rain when the surface is still not fully set up will save time and rake passes. Gauge wheels on the rake prevent surface washboards caused by tractor nodding over bumps.
Problem is that any leaves and trash which have settled on the outer foot or so of the road are balled up and brought in, too. You have to stop and fork them out, so organic material is not mixed into the road, making it soft.
10 years ago I bought a very powerful 13 HP Billy Goat blower. Now, in the fall I make a pass up and down the road after most leaves fall but before they get so much rain they are waterlogged. I leave the ditches completely clean. Much better for winter storm drainage, and prevents washouts when plugged ditches force water back onto road surface.
When I rake, I get more clean gravel and road material back and I don't get as much leaves and trash in what I bring back. If I am raking at other times of the year, I usual spend an hour blowing the road sides clean before starting if they aren't completely clear. I haven't had to buy as much additional road material since I started blowing off trash.
When raking, it sames me time if I don't pick a day when road is completely dry and hard. You don't want a wet, soft surface, but a couple of days after a rain when the surface is still not fully set up will save time and rake passes. Gauge wheels on the rake prevent surface washboards caused by tractor nodding over bumps.
alpha&omega
Bronze Member
I use a Stihl KW-KM power broom. It works better than any landscape rake setup I have ever used. Also does a good job at not tearing up the grass. It works for both the driveway and the road frontage - especially for those of us who live on a gravel road.