Adding euro three point hooks

[HybridVigor]

how did you choose the length range of your cylinder?

It seems the cylinder travel will necessarily be less than my top-link's adjustability:

• the top euro hook reduces the available travel by an inch or three (it's just physically longer than the normal ball)
• a hydraulic cylinder is not simply going to have a shorter adjustment range, given the range taken up around the seals on each end outside the ports.

Further, unsurprisingly the available cylinder ranges are not "perfectly centered" around my particular average length (seems to be around 25", out of a total top link range of 18-30") - so I'll have choose the 7-10" travel I get from the cylinder either in the shorter or longer part of my current 18-30".

Complicating things, today my lower links (telescoping) are ~28" pin to pin, but I am probably going to swap in fixed stock links, which are shorter, I believe - so while today I generally keep the top link around 25", it seems I can/should bring that in some.

Solutions that provide the cake as eat it, too will get the most upvotes Thanks!


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(hope I'm not hijacking the thread, happy to make a new one to ask if that's better)

Most implements are designed to be operated when perfectly level. Obviously make sure you’re roughly centered around the length that gets you level, but I tend to bias towards a slightly shorter range vs longer if you have to choose. Making sure I have the right range on the short side means I can lift things higher for clearance. I can’t think of too many implements where you’d need to have the end furtherest from the tractor drastically lower than level, but I’m sure someone could think of something. Take a look at your implements and measure what it takes to be level. Then ask yourself if you want to bias shorter, longer or even for each one. I’d wait till you get your hooks welded up because it could make a difference, although I suspect a minorish one.

All things considered the top link was always the easiest part of the equation for me. I’d prioritize getting the lower link hooks first. I like the rapid ball hook on my hydraulic top link, but the return on that was nothing like first putting on hooks.

 

[LouNY]

Lou is that top link Cat 1 or Cat 2?

Mine is a cat 2.

 

[LouNY]

Cat 1 is what it says in the print with both ends having 3/4" holes. I doubt that the hook end has a 1 3/4" wide implement ball though.

The page linked is for cat 1's.

 

[orangetree]

The page linked is for cat 1's.

Its my understanding (per brian) that there is no dedicated cat1 top link hook - a cat1 arm would its ball/clevis end sized for (actual) cat1, but the hook is the same cat1 & cat2. The balls, then, share an OD but are sold with either cat1 or cat2 ID's.

Note that the ball overall width needs to be machined down IFF your implement adheres strictly to the cat1 width of the pin, although for instance none of my implements do, they all fit a cat2 *width* ball just fine on their cat1 diam top pin)

 

[LouNY]

Its my understanding (per brian) that there is no dedicated cat1 top link hook - a cat1 arm would its ball/clevis end sized for (actual) cat1, but the hook is the same cat1 & cat2. The balls, then, share an OD but are sold with either cat1 or cat2 ID's.

Note that the ball overall width needs to be machined down IFF your implement adheres strictly to the cat1 width of the pin, although for instance none of my implements do, they all fit a cat2 *width* ball just fine on their cat1 diam top pin)

Yes the linked page is for top links with the smaller Cat 1 tractor ends. The top link hook has the same OD for the ball with a different bore for cat 1 or cat 2.

 

[Hay Dude]

Mine is a cat 2.

The page linked is for cat 1's.

I thought it looked bigger than Cat-1.
Looks real handy. I don’t have anything 3 point except my spreader.
Price, even with shipping is cheaper than Amazon

 

[LouNY]

Same here my back blade and flail mowers are the only 3 point. The Discbine is a two point, most other implements are drawbar pulled.
It is quite handy on the back blade as I can adjust the cutting edge angle of attack easily which is nice during the winter especially when using it backwards on non frozen driveways.

edited; forgot the 8 ft brush hog, it lets me back into some places I likely shouldn't be in but am.

 

[RayIN]

If you didn't want to wait for Fite Rite, given his long delivery time, you could consider importing some from the UK. There are lots of companies selling them for about £80 each (perhaps about $100) upwards depending on not only pin category but the dimensions of your linkage arms. Shipping would add on quite a bit.

My Kubota came with those horrible turnbuckle type stabilisers. Last winter I sourced a pair of aftermarket telescopic ones, of the style that Kubota fit, from the USA. They were delivered to me in about 1 week at a total cost of about £210.
You could look at the online catalogues of: malpasonline.co.uk agrilineproducts.com gb.sparex.com

U.S.A. source for the lighting: Connix LED Light Set - Wireless, Magnetic - S.130977