New Tractor for buyer new to tractors

[generic farmer]

I just looked at the LX2610 a couple of others recommended. That does look like a nice choice in this size range. I se they also have an LX 2620 out. Not sure what the difference is.

Different lights and transmission. The 2610 is way louder and whiny. 2620 is. Ice, but my feet were so big, it was uncomfortable. I loved the lx3520, but the stupid deck flexed when my ass climbed on, I didn't like it

 

[DenmanBC]

How new of a machine would require you to pay a tax on the import? Could you buy a lightly used, 10 year old machine in Washington say, for $16k US/22,260CD? I don't really know anything about Canada, but I believe Mexico, vehicles over 10 years old aren't/weren't subject to the import tax?

Good questions. Will have to research that. Canada typically wants its share of taxes on anything though, so will be surprised if they don't charge tax.

 

[DenmanBC]

Have you considered the L2502?

It's on my list for sure. Right now I think it is between the B2601, the L2502, or one of the LX models.

 

[DenmanBC]

Have you considered the L2502?

Quick question. Looks like the L2502 has lower engine HP and lower PTO HP than the B2601. Why choose a lower powered tractor?

 

[jyoutz]

Quick question. Looks like the L2502 has lower engine HP and lower PTO HP than the B2601. Why choose a lower powered tractor?

It’s a heavier framed, more robust machine and will outperform a B series in actual usage. 1 extra HP in a lighter, smaller framed machine will not matter.

 

[DenmanBC]

It’s a heavier framed, more robust machine and will outperform a B series in actual usage. 1 extra HP in a lighter, smaller framed machine will not matter.

Makes sense. Thanks

 

[redman135]

Some food for thought.
1)ERGONOMICS: sit on several brands of tractors and see what it take to adjust things so you are comfortable. ie is your arm stretched when operating the loader controls, if so you quickly get a sore arm. Can you get on and of easily? Put your boots and rain gear on, is it still easy to operate the controls and got on and off?
2) budget: is a low hour used tractor OK for you or are they so expensive it is better to go new?
3)impliments/attatchments: backhoe, hire a mini excavator when needed and put the money saved into attatchments. Others have said how litttle their backhoes are actually used.
4)loader: get 3rd sevice on purchase as they are expensive to retro fit.Note there a 2 types of 3rd service. True 3rd service and electric change over valve on the crowd/curl function on the joystick.(button operated)
5) tiny front wheels find every hole and make for an uncomfortable ride.
6) carryall/tray/transport tray: very useful and under rated.
7) SAFTEY: Get a 2 piece rim so you can widen the track to reduce rollover risk. Tractor in the size you are looking at are horribly tippy compared to 100 hp tractors.
Loader: should be kept low to reduce roll over risk. ie loader high(bucket empty) and sudden sharp turn and you can roll on FLAT ground easily. It is worse with a full bucket.
8)Ballast: fill the rear tyres, AND get a 3ph ballast box to put on for loader work. Ask other members for their ballast box designs as there is a wide variety and many members set theirs up for other work as well. eg reciever hitches.
Re ballast, ask locally what works best in tyres. ie where Ilive the winters are mild and water ballast is used. In other places water can't be used as it freezes.
Good Luck

 

[DenmanBC]

Some food for thought.
1)ERGONOMICS: sit on several brands of tractors and see what it take to adjust things so you are comfortable. ie is your arm stretched when operating the loader controls, if so you quickly get a sore arm. Can you get on and of easily? Put your boots and rain gear on, is it still easy to operate the controls and got on and off?
2) budget: is a low hour used tractor OK for you or are they so expensive it is better to go new?
3)impliments/attatchments: backhoe, hire a mini excavator when needed and put the money saved into attatchments. Others have said how litttle their backhoes are actually used.
4)loader: get 3rd sevice on purchase as they are expensive to retro fit.Note there a 2 types of 3rd service. True 3rd service and electric change over valve on the crowd/curl function on the joystick.(button operated)
5) tiny front wheels find every hole and make for an uncomfortable ride.
6) carryall/tray/transport tray: very useful and under rated.
7) SAFTEY: Get a 2 piece rim so you can widen the track to reduce rollover risk. Tractor in the size you are looking at are horribly tippy compared to 100 hp tractors.
Loader: should be kept low to reduce roll over risk. ie loader high(bucket empty) and sudden sharp turn and you can roll on FLAT ground easily. It is worse with a full bucket.
8)Ballast: fill the rear tyres, AND get a 3ph ballast box to put on for loader work. Ask other members for their ballast box designs as there is a wide variety and many members set theirs up for other work as well. eg reciever hitches.
Re ballast, ask locally what works best in tyres. ie where Ilive the winters are mild and water ballast is used. In other places water can't be used as it freezes.
Good Luck

Thanks for all that great advice.
Based on the feedback I am getting - "buy the biggest machine you can afford", and the fact that I will get more bang for the buck by skipping the expensive backhoe attachment, I am leaning toward an L series tractor with FEL, 3 function grapple, and a bush hog. Later I will likely add a box blade. Given that my primary applications are brush control (broom and heavy brambles), rough grass cutting, moving branch and small log piles, + driveway maintenance (12 acre property), which of the L models will likely be best? A local friend and colleague has 50 acres and he says I would be crazy to go less than an L4802 or L4760. That seems like a huge leap when I started think a BX or B2601 might suffice.
Thoughts?

 

[DenmanBC]

Bx is to small
Backhoe is wasted money
Buy a grapple and add a third function, you will use that 100x more than a backhoe
My suggestions would be
2032/2038r Deere
L3302/lx3520 or. 2601 Kubota. All nice machines, I almost recently bought the lx3520 but I went with 2038r. I really liked the 3901, but hated the loader position.....found it stupid.
Kioti cs or ck series
Or
Tym 2515

Good luck. Fill those tires, use ballast.

Your are gonna need a grapple, best implement ever for brush and tree moving

Skip grass cutting and buy a small tractor or zero turn

Based on all the good advice I am getting, I agree that I will get more bang for the buck by skipping the expensive backhoe, and I am leaning toward an L series tractor with FEL, 3 function grapple, and a bush hog.
A local friend and colleague has 50 acres and says I would be crazy to go less than an L4802 or L4760. That seems like a huge leap when I started thinking a BX or B2601 might suffice. I agree that the Bx is too small but I only have 12 acres....
Thoughts?

 

[Torvy]

How far to find other brands? Kubota make a good machine, but they (and John Deere) are considerably more expensive than others. Many of them charge extra for details that are standard elsewhere. Brand options can also help with negotiation.

I rented a mini-excavator for $300US. More capable than backhoe and much cheaper. Check around.