Uncle's JD 4230

   / Uncle's JD 4230
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Only thing to worry about when going up the ramps is keeping the tractor centered on the deck and praying the cable does not snap.
Monday I am taking the trailer to get a 3 inch square tube welded all the way forward and on the deck, and a huge D ring welded to that.

I used a chain across the most forward stake pockets for the test and didn't like that. I tried hooking the cable off center on the right stake pocket, but the winch didn't want to spool up correctly. Thus a center mounted D ring. I could weld it myself.

But I can get a pro to do it for bartered 4x4s, and for this I don't want any weld failures. That is, I don't trust my welds with my life!
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230
  • Thread Starter
#42  
I would think with fully aired up tires and a freed up gear box, the beefiness of that front end axle and triple pivot points should be more than sufficient. I might be concerned about the front "raring up" with the winch mounted that high on the trailer when the back wheels hit the base of the ramps though. Might want to have a plan B to keep the winch cable 2 feet off the deck + or - at that point.
The winch had a snatch block on the cable chained to the trailer deck. So the snatch block effectively pulled the tractor up at half the height of the winch.
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Most of the newer really large tractors have tow cables attached to the rear drawbar.
But for winching or even towing or pulling that tractor the front axle is substantial enough.
You got to remember this is a 1973 year model.
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230 #44  
   / Uncle's JD 4230 #45  
The reason they put those cables back to the drawbar is people pull the front axles off of tractors when they’re stuck.

Pulling it up by the front axle on to a trailer even with flat tires should not be an issue as it’s being pulled not being yanked on.
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230 #47  
Now that your set on pulling it on the trailer make sure you put transmission in "TOW". From the pictures I believe it is a quad range. There is a tow spot for the range lever, gear lever in neutral. If you don't find the original owners manual, when you get one make sure it is the correct one. There is a serial number break for them.

1749981121480.png
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230 #49  
Excessive starting fluid can and can/will result in one or more of the following;
dished/tuliped valves,
cracked/broken piston lands and grooves,
broken rings,
these issues then cause more issues such as cylinder wall damage, and valve train damage.

I have not seen injector tips burned from ether, not to say it couldn't happen.

Moderate to light use of starting fluid is and will be a great aid to hard starting cold blooded engines.
I much prefer to see it sprayed directly into an intake with the engine being turned over. I have seen to many instances of a paper filter element getting ether soaked before the ether gets to the engine, then the running engine can suck way too much into it.
 
   / Uncle's JD 4230
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Now that your set on pulling it on the trailer make sure you put transmission in "TOW". From the pictures I believe it is a quad range. There is a tow spot for the range lever, gear lever in neutral. If you don't find the original owners manual, when you get one make sure it is the correct one. There is a serial number break for them.

View attachment 3618465
So it is this transmission shift pattern...
John Deere Quad Range.jpg


How can you tell from the photos?
I printed the page you posted from the manual. It's a big help if it is a Power Shift to know about the pin and lever!
 
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