Massey Ferguson 135 input seal replacement

[Steady Eddy]

I am presently replacing the clutch on my MF 135 and noticed that the input seals are leaking. I have purchased new seals and would like to replace them while I have the tractor split. My service manual says that I have to also split the transmission from the differential in order for the pto shaft to move back enough to drop from the input shaft. My question is how far do I have to move the transmission in order for the pto shaft to drop and secondly do I need to take the transmission apart. Thanks for any advice you can give me.

 

[Harry in Ky]

If you have an eight speed transmission this is a piece of cake. If it's a six speed, different story. I'd say the distance between the the transmission and rear housing needs to at least a foot unless you are really good with your hands. I would need to have room to stand (or kneel) between the cases. The top part of the transmission needs not come apart. Shift cover, top shaft, gears and forks all stay in place. You have the manual, it (should) describe the process. Only the PTO shaft needs to move.

 

[Steady Eddy]

Thanks for the reply. My transmission is a 6 speed non multipower. The manual only describes how to dismantle and rebuild the complete transmission. Do I need to remove the the pto bearing housing shaft inside the bell housing for the pto shaft to drop enough to remove the the input shaft. Once I have the transmission split do I need to remove the planetary assembly at the rear of the transmission.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The planetary? I don't think so. I think once the transmission is split away from the rear housing you will see the bearing, snap rings ETC involved, but I think the front cover comes off, the small snap ring comes off the shaft and then the shaft can be driven back through the gear and the rear bearing may slide out with the shaft. It only needs to go back far enough for the gear to drop then the top input shaft assembly will come out the front. You might want (or need) to remove the front bearing support housing in order to get the gear back onto the shaft when you put it back together.

 

[Steady Eddy]

Again thanks. Your advice has been very appreciated. I will attempt to do this in the next few days. I may have more questions once I get in there. I will let you know how I make out.

 

[redman135]

When you have got to the rejoin stage, engage the pto and use a spanner on the pto shaft to rotate it to slide into the clutch instead of trying to rotate the gearbox input shaft. Save blue air and pinched fingers.
good luck.

 

[Steady Eddy]

I now have the clutch bolted to the flywheel. The 6 bolts are 5/16 grade 8 bolts. The service manual calls for those bolts to be torqued at 28-32 foot lbs. While torquing one bolt broke broke before I reached 25 foot lbs. I decided to replace all 6 bolts with new grade 8 bolts. Again while torquing one of the new bolts broke at 18 foot lbs. I again replaced the broken bolt and now the bolts are all torqued at 16 foot lbs and I am afraid to go any higher. 28 foot lbs on a 5/16 bolts seems high to me and all the charts I checked seem to agree. Any comments or suggestions would surely be appreciated. Thanks again

 

[Harry in Ky]

I don't think I've ever used a torque wrench on pressure plate bolts so I won't speak to what they should or shouldn't be torqued to. I use a long handled 3/8 ratchet and tighten them a little at a time until it "feels" right. Have never broken one and don't remember having one come loose later.