Yanmar 1401 Stuck Arms 3 point jammed

[sandman2234]

Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

I purchased a Ford 1210 from another member of TBN, who was gifted it from a good neighbor. I bought it sight un-seen, and paid what I figured was a fair price, all things considered. THIS IS NOT A RANT ABOUT THE PREVIOUS OWNER! I expected issues, and one that I am not prepared for, is the...

www.tractorbynet.com

The above link was a learning experience for me, as the head at top of the cylinder had been removed and installed 180 degrees out which basically blocked the return line that emptied the hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir. I now know a lot more than I ever expected to know about the 3 point lift systems of a Ford 1210!
David from jax

 

[JPS3]

Ford 1210 with 3 point that won't go down...

I purchased a Ford 1210 from another member of TBN, who was gifted it from a good neighbor. I bought it sight un-seen, and paid what I figured was a fair price, all things considered. THIS IS NOT A RANT ABOUT THE PREVIOUS OWNER! I expected issues, and one that I am not prepared for, is the...

www.tractorbynet.com

The above link was a learning experience for me, as the head at top of the cylinder had been removed and installed 180 degrees out which basically blocked the return line that emptied the hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir. I now know a lot more than I ever expected to know about the 3 point lift systems of a Ford 1210!
David from jax

Thank you for the advice and I will certainly give that a try.

If it doesn't work what is the best way to access the shaft through the control block just in case it is totally seized?

I have attached a photo and circled the area that I mean

 

[JPS3]

I thought I would provide an update regarding the stuck 3 point as I managed to spend some time on it today. Additionally I hope this will help others in a similar situation

Following the diagram Steve sent me we removed the screw valve assembly to see if there was any blocked ports or contamination but all was clean and clear.

Next, tried removing the complete unit head by removing the seat base, undoing the the 4 bolts that attach the head to the PTO Box that the piston would come out with it past the gearstick. Unfortunately it came out so far and stuck. Thinking that it may be attached to a conrod and crank I re-bolted back into place but it was clear to see that there was a lot of rust around it.

The next item we decided to look at was the the up/down 3 point selector as it felt it was not fully engaging when selecting the Up position.

I removed the front plunger bolt and noticed it was covered in a milky white solution so cleaned it and refitted it. Then removed the rear plunger bolt which was covered in rust and crap.
Also blew out around the selector block in case anything was trapped in there.

Tried the 3 point selector again but it didn’t feel much better.

Whilst at this point and investigating further I removed both plunger bolts as I had only tightened them by hand

Don’t do this and make the same mistake as I did because unfortunately if you remove both plunger bolts spring selector control spring and ball bearing pushes the selector fork out of alignment and it is practically impossible to get the bolts back in.

Fortunately for me we had already decided to remove the top of the PTO box to access the piston and see how it was connected.

Once removed you could see that the piston and the conrod are 2 separate items and conrod just sits in the recess of the bottom of the piston.

The base of the piston is severely corroded. Not sure if the Piston Sleeve is screwed or press fitted or whether it should sit flush to the inner sleeve? Maybe someone here can tell us.

Regardless this also allowed full access to the Port Block and Selector Shaft for the 3 point and could be cleaned and checked thoroughly.

I have added some photos so that you an see inside.



Tried slackening off the up/down gear selector and checking for contamination and found the 1st plunger bolt and rear one was rusted and covered in crap.