Splitting my Zetor 6245...again. Need advice.

[WFOMO]

I wore the clutch out on my 6245 a couple of years ago and split it for the repair. Put it back together (clutch plate, pilot and throwout bearing), worked fine, but long story short, evidently the transmission seal is leaking and it is now full of oil. I can drive it up against a tree with the clutch out and it doesn't even slow the engine.
So...as I go for my second time around, I'm planning on changing the transmission seal AND crank seal. Is there anything else I need to do while in there to prevent a third try?

 

[rScotty]

I wore the clutch out on my 6245 a couple of years ago and split it for the repair. Put it back together (clutch plate, pilot and throwout bearing), worked fine, but long story short, evidently the transmission seal is leaking and it is now full of oil. I can drive it up against a tree with the clutch out and it doesn't even slow the engine.
So...as I go for my second time around, I'm planning on changing the transmission seal AND crank seal. Is there anything else I need to do while in there to prevent a third try?

Congrats on splitting the tractor and having it work for you.

Some Eastern European equipment didn't have the best quality seals....yes, that is an understatement & you probably already know that. Just guessing, but how are the master cylinder brake seals???

However, many seals - like bearings - are standard metric dimension. You could look at a Japanese or US seal catalogue to see what else is if offered in that size. I use a Parker Seal & O Ring designer's catalogue when choosing seals. It's a big thick boring book. Also read what McMaster.com has to say.

Not all seal materials have the same resistance to chemicals or the same lip construction. Prices vary a lot. You may want to use a seal technology that would be too expensive for mass production.
There are also some interesting double lip seals available now for direct replacement. You might want to talk to some serious Formula 1 racers or high end hotrodders.

Stick with a known name brand dual purpose Trans/Hydraulic fluid both for seal chemistry compatibility and the additives. I like JD HyTran and NH Ambra Multi G. Others are good; all are expensive.
rScotty

 

[Zork]

Did you get it repaired?

 

[Harry in Ky]

No, it's still nosed up against the tree.

 

[Zork]

No, it's still nosed up against the tree.

Sorry to hear this. Make sure your rear vent is not plugged or restricted and make sure the surface of the input shaft where the seal rides not damaged or grooved badly. There may also be a drain in the clutch’s bell housing that may be restricted with debris. Good luck.