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Not familiar with that model , but generally speaking, if you don’t want to spend money on a new cylinder (assuming that’s the problem), maybe just chain it in the up position (or mechanically latch it somehow while it is raised).

Like Yander describes above, just unload it partially at a time (get one side on the ground, then the other). No need to lift the entire mower by itself.

I’ve got a MF1540. I change the outer air filter every year, but I have not had to change the inner air filter in years; it is still pristine clean. Nothing to worry about with it not being in there. Just put one in and forget about it……

It’s always a gamble nowadays - either the price goes up, or what you need isn’t in stock. I generally stock up on stuff if I find it on sale. That way I don’t have to worry about running out for awhile. Even if items become more available, I doubt prices will come down for a few years. I...

I’m jealous of that boom arm (the yellow one)…..if you ever want to give it away, feel free to contact me (ha ha). I had a used sickle bar mower that I bought in 2018 that I used around the pond; worked well, but unfortunately the bearings burned up and it wasn’t worth fixing (the nearings...

I get the tall grass (easily 8’+) and cattails growing around the edges. At the end if the summer, i use a battery powered hedge trimmer to cut them down to about waist height. Later, I use the brush hog to cut the “stumps” lower (I back the mower into the pond edge) I have to...

Similar thread from a few months ago for a Mahindra - same kind of issues were described…….you’re not alone…… https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/5145-50-hour-service.453710/#post-6311432

I’m a homeowner on about about 7 acres in Upstate NY. Had a 4 ft 3 pt tiller that I ran for my wife’s garden every so often, along with landscaping projects when I first moved here. Used a MF1540 hst (40 hp). Can’t remember the tiller brand (didn’t use it for a number of years, so sold...

Just list it for sale online (ie: Craigslist) and maybe at the end of your driveway. If you would be happy with $1,000, list it for “$3,000 obo” and see what counter offers you get.

Similar recent thread - may give you some ideas….. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bush-hogging-8-acres-pricing.454515/#post-6323339

Buy some of these - only set you back about $16,000….., https://www.sidebysidestuff.com/michelin-x-tweel-airless-radial-tires-4-156.html

No pictures, but I was headed southbound last week on a three lane highway, and saw the northbound lanes at a standstill. Evidently a large roll of insulation (industrial size roll) had fallen off a truck and a car in the middle lane drove onto it. Could see the front end of the car lifted...

Years ago when I upgraded my tractor I traded it in. I remember that I had to convince him to take the trade. He had a bunch of older stuff laying around on his lot. It was a family business; nice guy. I gave him lots of business. Agree with the posters above though - you would probably...

Don’t even see any straps on it He probably took the freeway home too….

I blew out the control panel to my relatively new furnace one time because the whole house generator was running too high (above 60 mhz or whatever it is supposed to be). Could see that the lights were a little brighter when the generator was running, but I’m no electrician….. Have the...

Nothing has ever worked for me on my zero turn. I just jack it up every once and awhile and scrape the caked up mud/grass off. Works good enough for me. Relatively quick and easy. After the last mow of the Fall, I power wash the underside (and the whole mower)

You should see the modifications that I did to my pool/pool heater pvc piping a few years back…….looks like blue pipe with a little bit of white here and there…….

Just get a new piece of pipe to use as a coupler. Can get that and the purple pipe dope at Home Depot. Just cut the old piece out with a hacksaw (or anything - it cuts real easy). Turn the water off first though……

I’ve had wet spots in my leach field lines ever since i moved in back in 2001. House was built in 1991. Never has caused a problem. Can dmell the poop smell occasionally when mowing over it. Had the line from the septic tank to the leach field distribution box replaced three years ago; it...

As an add on to this, you can also google an actual picture that you take - try that too, might get a hit.

Does the engine rpms change at all when you put it in gear (ie: does it start lugging at all)? Maybe they locked the brakes? Might have kicked some lever somewhere

Best bet is to put a tarp under it and scrap off the caked on stuff. Then remove the tarp with all of the caked on stuff. After that, just pressure wash it. There won’t be enough oil, etc to create any environmental damage. You can’t really pressure wash it with the tarp underneath...

I wouldn’t think it would be the glow plugs or pump, but I’m no mechanic. Your description sounds like what happens to me when it’s below zero out and the fluids are thick from the cold. Runs rough until I’ve let it warm up for awhile. Is your oil and oil filter relatively new? Probably...

Age and life learning lessons lead me to suggest that you wait for the experts…..they presumably have the knowledge, expertise, and equipment to do it. They should also be able to tell you if it’s not possible too. May be cheaper and less of a headache for you in the end. That’s my...

Older thread that might provide some ideas….. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/snow-blower-attachment.353421/ Have you checked with local dealers for used ones?

If you are happy with the replacements that you put on, just buy the same ones again (if they are available). That’s what I would do at least - don’t mess with success……

It will, but it will be slow going. An alternative that i have done is to use a brush hog and back it into the field edges (under the trees). Also takes awhile, but it will do a better job thsn the sickle bar. With the sickle bar, I would leave the cuttings on the ground and then go...

I top off the fuel in my zero turn mower rifgt after I’m done mowing. Earlier this summer, i was getting ready to mow and saw that i had forgotten to put the cap back on the mower tank. Had rained during the week too. Just put the cap on and ran it; no issues You should be fine.

With the internet though, it’s pretty easy to search the part and find prices. Most dealers, in my experience, are not yoo far off from the lowest price i find on the internet. I buy stuff on Amazon (general household supplies, etc) and it’s amazing how much of a difference in pricing...

Air hose nozzle pressed directly into the hole may dislodge some of it. Probably never be able to get rid of all of it.

Are you using the correct grade shear pins? Has it always done it, or did it just start doing it?

I had a path going into a back field that would be wet/muddy until july or so each summer (live in central ny). Had dug a pond in the back field; dug up lots and lots of shale and mud. I used all of the shale/mud mix to build a good road over the muddy area where i wanted the path. I just...

Gee…..that ain’t no station wagon or SUV…..

May sound simplistic, but is the coolant level good? Maybe there’s a grounding issue that’s causing bad gauge readings - look at all the wiring and grounds.

Google can be very tricky in my experience in that you can click on something, and they’ll be some little question thats hard to see that says if you continue, it will install Chrome. My guess is that you clicked something somewhere to consent to install it without realizing it Not a big deal...

I run my bush hog a full rpms. I just adjust the tractor speed as necesssary - slower in thick stuff, faster in thin stuff.

Even with the loader down, the rollback operater should be able winch it and drag it (in either direction). Worst case, just loosen the hydraulic hoses a bit on each side to let the loader “float”; will drip a bit of hydraulic fluid, but not a big deal.

According to a Google search, it can be tripped that way……evidently quite common/normal - interesting. Never had it happen to me though.

Whoops….sorry - didn’t catch that in your original post. Here’s a general article on what to check; https://poweredoutdoors.com/your-belt-keeps-coming-off-your-husqvarna-mower-solved/

Central NY - just renewed propane contract for 2022/2023 at $2.18. Paid $1.70 this past year. I’m actually happy - i was expecting $3+

Had a belt jumping off my Ferris mower two years ago. Put a new belt on and no more problems. The old belt was stretched just enough to be loose enough to cause the problem So….stick a new belt on and keep the old one as an emergency spare. Worst case if that doesn’t solve the issue is...

Make sure all of the battery/starter wiring is clean and tight, along with any grounds.

Can’t answer your questions about rock hammers, but what I did with a pile of large rocks/boulders that i had piled up over the years was to bury them. I had a large used excavator (Hitachi ex60-urg) with a manual thumb. I wanted a pile of dirt instead of a pile of rocks, so i dug a big hole...

Experience the same thing with my MF1540 hst. Brush hog about 5 acres once at the end of each summer. Usually on a hot sunny day when it’s nice and dry. Takes about three to four hours, full rpms, and slow speed. At about 2.5 hours, the engine temps continually climb into the red...

In my travels, i have passed by Amazon warehouses where they have a sign on the road saying something like “truckers ignore gps” and additional directional signs for them.

Put a sign at the road entrance saying something like “GPS Wrong - Go Back”

I do on call courier driving - choosing “shortest route” has taken me through some pretty bad back roads. I don’t use that option in the winter.

Maybe this tractor organization…… http://www.earlydaytractoriron.org/Apages/Donate.html

I just google whatever part I am looking for and see what pops up. I think Messicks is one site that I have purchased from. There is no central Agco site that i am aware of, presumably because they want you to go to the dealer

After it cools down, open the hood and look around to see if you can see what may have burned. Possibly some wiring. Could be something simple (but usually not) - worth it to at least look around first.

I’d start by checking the hydraulic fluid level - make sure it is full. Do all of the other hydraulic functions operate properly?

Nothing really being done wrong in this picture - just thought it was kind of funny that his car was so small that he couldn't fit it inside snd had to strap it to the back to carry it.

The only way I know is to call a professional bee exterminator; that's what I've had to do. It may be a lot bigger than you think.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kubota-4310-will-not-turn-off-with-the-key-new-relay-and-solenoid-voltage-problem.406973/

It's probably not a fuel quality issue, since you've already drained it twice. I had a truck that had an ethanol issue, but the engine didn't just slowly lose power but rather bucked and ran really rough. Ethanol treatment and then using non-ethanol gas fixed the issue.

Does it bog down if you don't have anything attached? Just unhook the pro to the brush hog and then start the pro at whatever speed you set for brush hogging and see what happens.

I did a lot of dirt moving, smoothing, etc when we moved to our property 20+ years ago. There were many instances where I would raise the front wheels off the ground when doing it. Never hurt anything. Usually it was when smoothing areas - would have the bucket angled at less than 45...

Yes - always lower everything (collapse all cylinders). Then just loosen the nut on the hose you are removing a little bit slowly to let any remaining pressure escape. Shouldn't be much. The pinhole probably has released any pressure in that hose anyway.

I'm going to suggest what I have seen many others suggest in similar seemingly fuel starved situations - maybe the fuel cap is defective. The next time it starts stalling, remove the fuel cap and see what happens. Hopefully it's that simple.

No clue what model it is, but most parts on mowers like that are relatively generic - get parts most anywhere, online, Tractor Supply, etc. , including blades and belts (which are probably the only things on it you'll ever need to replace). Just grease it adequately, and change out any gear oil.

Use my gas leaf blower only once or twice a year - can never remember which lever/button should be in what position to choke, then run, so have to play with it for ten minutes until it starts running. Then I say to myself - "remember that for next time" - and I don't.

Post #6 in the linked thread has a picture of a wiring schematic, but I can't get it to focus on my phone, so I have no clue if it will be of any help to you...,. https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/mf1250-wont-start-is-pto-switch-on-the-safety-circuit.1261106/

The linked thread is old and has a really dark picture of the seat underside.....not sure if it helps you, but worth a shot. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/bx2660-deluxe-reclining-seat.139638/

Good idea here. I had an old Hitachi EX60-URG excavator. I would have to do one function at a time, or the hydraulic power would be too weak/slow.

At the end of each summer, I would brush hog roughly five acres of field with my MF 1540 HST. First cutting in low range most of the time (the wetter areas of the field grow thicker and taller than other sections - about 50/50 though, so it averages out). Takes 3-4 hours. Probably used...

Another option would be to build a little wooden platform with regular steps that you could park the mower real close to, and then step to/from the mower to/from the wooden deck.

My brush hog (MF brand) is over 15 years old, and I've never changed the blades or done anything underneath it. Have never oiled the blades. If you can get under it again, look closely to compare the two blades connections to see if you can detect any differences between the blade that...

I mean when he parks it for the winter - park it elevated on something.

I've had a snowblower on my skidsteer since 2009; used it for my paved driveway (600' long, 2,000 sf in front of my garage) and my neighbors paved driveway (double the size of mine). I use down pressure too quite frequently to scrape up ice/packed down snow from cars driving on it. The...

If the issue is that you could not physically access the rusted brakes to hit on them, if you could park on some ramps (two or three 10" wide by maybe 3' long boards for example), that may give you enough access room.

From a Google search https://dmcoffee.blog/what-causes-split-pits-in-peaches/

Fwiw - I keep a spray can of WD40 with the tractor. I spray everything that moves, rolls, hooks together with it before attaching anything. Really makes it much easier.

May be best to ask the person you bought it from, only because they look like after market pieces since they aren't still freshly painted.

No experience with tractor backhoes, but maybe there is a hydraulic pressure relief valve on it that is set too low.

Do you mean the pro is turning off, or that the pro shaft from the implement is physically becoming detached from the tractor?

No - it should be oozing out of both sides of the pin/joint that it is greasing

A few older threads that might help https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/cub-cadet-z-force-60-pto-belt-issues.173929/ https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/z-force-48-low-hour-pto-belt-breaks.245096/

No personal knowledge, but post #5 in the link shows the pages from the manual https://www.greentractortalk.com/threads/deere-110tlb-transmission-calibration-help-getting-desperate.191924/

It most likely just pulls out (I'm just guessing); generally air filters are just pushed in place vs being secured by a bolt or something. If you have a new filter already, look it over, as that should give you an idea as to what is on the part of the filter that you can't see. If it's been in...

Could it have been the side panel making the noise? Put the panel back on and see if the noise returns.

I therefore humbly beg your forgiveness...... Sheesh......try to help.....

I had a 3 pt finish mower - Massey Ferguson - can't recall the model. Don't think that it had an anti scalp roller on it. It had four wheels on it, so it really was unlikely to scalp (vs a deck hanging off a mower).

I'd say the bolt is unrelated. Threads are full of grime, so it has probably been laying around for awhile. Wouldn't think a carriage bolt would be used on a tractor (maybe on a 3 pt implement)

Based on a Google search, it looks like that filter has a rubber gasket. If that is correct, did you install the gasket when you put in the new filter? Did you make sure the old gasket was not still in there (so you don't have two gaskets)?

https://www.etrailer.com/question-327027.html

If your fence posts are far enough apart, try backing the end of the mower under it. Pain to keep repositioning, of course.

Recent related thread, just different brand....may help https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/atv-tires-on-a-zero-turn.453530/#post-6308899

It is usually detailed in the users manual. Generally, it is engine oil and filter change, grease, etc. Nothing major. Since it's brand new, should double check/tighten bolts and such all around.

By the way, I had a bucket hose bust on me one time when I was brush hogging. I just raised it up to about level and didn't use the bucket; I was able to still drive it without fluid spraying out. I mention that in case you need to drive it. I don't recommend using it with it leaking -...

I don't think he was criticizing...... It was just kind of humorous that a small item came in a large box.

Make sure that it just doesn't need to be tightened. I had that happen once - connection had slowly unscrewed and started to leak. Just tightened it and it has been fine since.

I have a MF1540; previous tractor was a Kubota B7500. Neither had this "down" function on the 3 pt. That's why I was wondering about it.

I have an ASV PT50 - there is no bleed procedure for the hydraulic fluid. Just drain, change filter, fill and go..... Maybe somehow a fuse blew - check your fuses.

Not sure that I understand the issue - are you saying that , with no 3 pt attachment hooked up, the 3 pt arms don't go down by themselves? If so, that is how they are supposed to work; there is no down pressure. I have to push mine down. Maybe I'm missing something.

Cars back then were tanks; even with all that weight it probably only squatted about an inch..... Our neighbors back around 1975 had a four door Mercury sedan; don't know the model. I do remember that you could practically stand up and walk around the back seat area because there was so much...

I normally run it at 2,500 - right on the green/red line - when snow blowing or mowing.

Does it click in 4wd when going in reverse? Have you been greasing the zerks along the front drieshaft and any other front end zerks?

Do you know if the 4wd is actually working (ie: are you in mud or something where you can see the front tire working)?

Check carefully at the places where you disconnected the loader from the tractor to make sure something wasn't pulled out or whatever accidentally. Check that the fuel cutoff valve usually by the fuel filter wasn't pushed shut (if you have one).

If nobody is able to provide the info, a suggestion would be to take the broken section to a farm/tractor dealer near you to see if they would be able to match it generically.

I had a brand new skidsteer in 2009 that the dealer told me to keep the battery disconnected, or else it would drain. He didn't say why. He was correct, so I kept it disconnected. Maybe five years later, I had to replace the alternator. For the heck of it, I stopped disconnecting the...

Grandmother used to make home made fudge.....would melt in your mouth just looking at it. Way back in the '70's.

Your body is also ten years older.......those rides just get worse as the years go on.....

I just bring them all over and then see which one fits.....

Not sure if this is your exact model - if it is, page 3-4 shows the zerk locations http://www.hillbillyhobbies.com/tractor/NH-TC35-40-45DA-Manual.pdf

Echoing what has been posted above....remove those three bolts and put them in the other three holes. You then slowly tighten the three bolts - do about a 1/4 turn on one bolt, then go to the next bolt and do the same, etc, etc. that will slowly push the pulley down and release everything...

I'd check it anyway just to make sure. What was it in for at the dealer? That might be a clue. Maybe something was put back together loose and whatever it is came apart. Took a car home from a dealer one time after some brake work. Got home, popped the hood to take a quick look. Saw the...

Is it hydrostatic or geared? Check your hydraulic fluid level if it's hst

I had some of the little gallon (I think) jugs with the sprayer on it for homeowner usage in my shed for two years. Eventually used it to kill the grass around my pool and it still worked fine.

I use one of these - keep it behind the tractor seat when mowing the field. When the engine temp starts creeping up, just brush the chafe/seeds off of the radiator fins and screens without any damage.

For all my equipment, I try to stick with oem filters for oil/fuel/hydraulic fluid. Air filters I don't worry about since I can see the insides. Oil is basically whatever is on sale. No tractor manufacturer has their own oil refinery anyway......they just sell rebranded big name oil at...

If the filter was wrong, you probably would have noticed it right away. If it only started after 4.5 hours of use, probably something happened. Is it foaming out the cap, or is it straight fluid? Any fluid coming out at the filter (ie:did the filter come loose? Did you install the gasket...

I have absolutely no clue, but in general, if something's working fine, and then doesn't work after disconnecting and reconnecting, then something most likely was not reconnected properly. If it were me, I would disconnect everything again, inspect all of the connecting points closely...

Wonder if the hairline crack was already there, and maybe the piece of wood pushed it just enough to start the slow drip. Usually those lines are pretty durable re: things hitting them. If the line is hard to get to, maybe check your other lines while you're working in there. If they are...

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=705033

If it's stuck in the woods and you're just trying to get it back to your garage (or wherever), and the leak is minor, just top it off and drive it back. If it's a more substantial leak, to accomplish the same thing (get it out of the woods), dry the leak off as best as possible, wrap a rag...

Last post in this thread https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/2810-hydraulic-level.254671/

But that's how they get your palm prints......

I don't see why you can't try to straighten it - slowly and carefully. Really have nothing to lose. May not be successful, but worth a shot. Maybe check on Craigslist for used ones as a donor. Farm equipment places might even have old partial ones laying aroun.

After you do the initial clearing of the land with the tree cutter, you can just sell it and get a basic brush hog. Might even make money in the resale the way prices are going.

I don't know.....I've heard that if you read a post on rfid scanning on an Internet forum, that it is really a guise for electronic waves to spread out through your house to gather information on your credit cards...

But in their minds, they will have no cost of ownership, so if they sell it for $1,000, they will feel that they "gained" $1,000. That's why estate sales can sometimes yield great results for buyers.

Don't know how accurate this link is - based on a Google search https://www.napacanada.com/en/farm-tractor-parts/case_tractor/430/1962/replacement-parts/filters/201579374

Didn't read all the posts, so maybe this was suggested - after you get the front of the tractor onto the trailer, put some 2x4's in front of the front tires to drive up on the rest of the way. That may allow the ROPS to the angle/tilt back enough to clear the trailer top.

Many threads on the difficulty of getting info; here's a recent one though that might point you in the right direction...,, https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/chinese-tractors.438185/

Another interesting one today.....looks like pieces of metal - couldn't tell how secure they where, so I didn't get behind them in case everything slid out.....

On my MF1540, there is a lever to put the pto in neutral (so it will spin freely). Not sure if the same is true for a Kubota, but might want to check for that.

Maybe just the tightness of the bolts effectively seals them. I thought when I initially read your post that oil was leaking through the bolts.

No idea, but if you can find an exploding parts diagram online, that may give you an answer. Is it used? If so, maybe the prior owner did some work on it and did not replace the seals/gaskets (if they exist). Just a wild guess...... Edit: you beat me to it....

If possible, just put solid tires on it. I'm not familiar with sidewinder brush hogs, so I don't know why they use air tires instead of solid.

I would double check that you reconnected the hoses in the correct locations. Also check your hydraulic fluid level

I stick with Fords because they come with an exterior keypad to unlock the doors. Well worth it based on my wife locking her keys in the cars numerous times. I also keep a spare key fob hidden inside the car. To prevent it from sending signals out (and not be able to lock the car), I just...

Nothing to be embarrassed about. I guaranty you that, if it disconnects flawlessly, say, the next four times, on the fifth time, it won't, and you'll go nuts trying to figure out what the heck you're doing wrong this time.....and then it will magically release. Been there, done that on many...

Can't hurt....would probably help to keep it from spreading the tear further as the tire flexes

I would try whatever silicone you might have laying around the house. You're only using a tiny bit to seal at the top of the barb, so contact with the diesel will be minor Worse case is that the diesel eats through the silicone and leaks again, so you're back to square one. That's what I would...

Can you unscrew the barb a bit, then put something like a little bead of silicone around it, then screw it back in and let it dry?

Sometimes it just takes time to get it just right, but it should come off. Raise the phd so that the shaft is parallel to the ground (as little angle as possible) and then try to remove it. Make sure the pto is in neutral - that sometimes helps. Is your pro shaft in two sections? If it is...

Saw this yesterday......appears to have a bungee cord holding those white rods on the right in as close as possible, so she was evidently intentionally driving with those sticking out.

A bunch of sellers show up with a Google search.....Amazon, EBay, etc.

Put PB Blaster all around the top and let it soak overnight. That will make it much easier to pry off. When you do start prying, do it a little bit at a time, working your way around it (don't keep prying in the same spot) There should not be anything locking that key in place; shroud be...

This thread has links for various manuals.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/i-have-found-all-the-service-manuals-and-some-owners-manuals-branson-has-available.419226/page-2

On my zero turn mower a few years back, one of the wires for the safety switch simply broke. Was able to locate the break visually (luckily) and just splice it. I mention this just in case that is what is causing your issue - check all the wiring first.

Another possibility is a spindle or pulley bearing going bad, even though you've made sure it was greased. The belts can also wear/stretch. Maybe swap just the belts between the decks to see if anything changes. In the end, if it were me, I wouldn't worry about the noise. If it is a...

Simplest thing to check is the pto switch itself. Pull it out and check the connections, or maybe just stick a new one in.

If it's convenient, swap decks between each machine and see what happens with the noise. That will at least make certain that the deck itself is the cause or not. You never know.....

You mention the cost to replace the entire assembly, but what about just repairing it? Maybe that cost is relatively cheap. It's lasted 17 years, so a simple repair (vs entire replacement) might be the answer.

I used to use a snowmobile helmet when blowing with my tractor; works quite well, especially wearing glasses.

https://www.ehow.com/how_7891730_year-ford-555b-backhoe.html The 6m21c number appears to be the one to use - December 1986

If it's the bolt at the bottom, put a screwdriver where the red line is and push the end of the bolt in while you are trying to unscrew it. That may get it to catch the threads. The screwdriver will get leverage against the silver bolt to the left.

Not sure which bolt it is, but I've used an angle grinder to grind off stubborn bolts.

Curious as to why you replaced the fuel pump? In any event, if there was nothing wrong with the old pump, if it were me, I'd put the old fuel pump back on and see what happens. Otherwise, retrace your steps and make sure everything was installed correctly.

The oil extractor I have included a thin metal flexible rod that can be used inside the thinner extracting tube to keep it straight. To test which pan the extractor went into (emptied), stick that thin metal rod down and have someone tap it into the bottom while you are underneath listening...

Putting the loader back on after you've taken it off is like hooking up a trailer to the truck - it either goes on in two minutes, or it takes two hours....... Just go slow and be patient.

Don't know how you would be able to watch both sides though re: smashing into the solar panel bases. https://farmingwithhorses.com/sickle-mowers-for-tractors/

The site glass? That is most likely in the back by the 3 pt hitch. Can be hard to find - sometimes have to get in real close.

Wouldn't it just be the hydraulic fluid that powers the steering cylinders?

Or maybe just put a new end connector on it.

Agree with mrmikey above.....I'd just let it air dry for a few days before messing around with anything.

I think they just left out of the manual the instructions to turn the tractor upside down first if only the filter is changed.......ha ha Interestingly, the hydro filter on my skidsteer is on top behind the seat panel; it actually can be changed without having to drain the fluid.

This picture from an auction site on a 2003 model appears to show it facing up on the frame above the steering linkage. Probably not on your though since I am sure you would have noticed it. For what it's worth.....

As long as the fill plug is above everything (which it must be if it's a fill plug), I would just fill it to the top of the plug home

https://www.napaonline.com/en/farm-tractor-parts/ford_tractor/1200/1980/replacement-parts/filters/201579374

may want to still do as was suggested above re: jumping it. Or grab a known, good battery and try that. That should definitely rule out the battery itself being the cause. That's what I would do at least, as the person who checked the battery and said it was good might be wrong. It...

Not sure about out West, but in the East, we have several non-profit community farms. Maybe contact them and donate it. They could always sell it for cash if they don't need the equipment. Just a thought.....

Easiest thing to do is to take the hoses off and take them to a tractor dealer or truck shop to have them make new hoses for you. Also.....first check to make sure that your hoses aren't leaking just because the connections are loose.

Different model in this link, but it may work with yours. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/6065-reset-service-minder.426674/

It actually nice to download manuals to a phone if you can. That way, they are easy to "carry" and access when needed, plus they are (usually) searchable. you could also then just go to a place like Staples or a UPS Store to have them print it quickly.

This may sound simplistic, but are you sure that the rattling sound is not from something that is just lose somewhere? does the rattle change with the rpm's or tractor movement? can you pinpoint more precisely where the rattling is coming from if you walk around it, etc while it's idling?

Might be in one of the videos in this link? Not sure if the model numbers. https://www.midstatemower.com/branson-how-to-videos

Take a zerk off of the other pulley (if there is one) and use that as a reference.

Maybe check the hydraulic oil filters - possible they are a little loose and letting air in. Might be worth it to simply replace the filters on the off chance that they are causing the issues. Cheap test vs bringing it in for more expensive/extensive work. If the fluid is cloudy...

I have one of those on my skidsteer. Think I owned it for a few years before I realized it had that notch/pin on it - just knew that sometimes it would come off easily, and other times not. Was just luck having it line up after twisting and swearing..... the pin was on the downside (not...

For what it's worth, I've bent those on mine and have just manually restraightened it as much as possible. I bent mine accidently years ago with the loader - was trying to move it, I think, and I squished it. Never had any subsequent issues. But....my brush hog is connected directly to the 3...

Seem to be a number of posts on various forums asking about the pretty much the same thing, but no real answers. here's one..... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/case-360-trencher-backhoe-belt-change.427287/

Looks like the blade is already spun around 180 - appears to be facing to the rear. the only thing I ever used a rear blade for was snow removal Looks in good condition. Price seems reasonable. Can always offer him lower. If you buy it, and then don't use it, can just resell it.

Different model in this video, but it might help you locate it

I did a Google search and it doesn't show a TV45 tractor (that is in your sig). do you have the manual? Fuse locations should be in there

Generic explanation in this link..... https://gmundcars.com/massey-ferguson-tractor-warning-light-meanings%EF%BF%BC/

Maybe a stick or something got jammed into the cable/mechanism and pushed it to full throttle.

Can usually buy it in bulk (around 8 lbs) for around $4/lb now (80% lean). I wait until they mark it down on the expiration date, then freeze it.

Looks really dry.....give it plenty of grease, PB Blaster, oil..... maybe take one of the tines off and take it to a farm store like Tractor Supply to match it with a generic. Might even be easier to replace all of the tines with new ones that match if you can't find an exact replacement...

Based on my simplistic homeowner skills/knowledge, since you're going to paint the interior side white, I'd put the black side facing up (out). Otherwise you'll probably need twenty coats of paint to block out the black.....

From the World Wide Web..... https://www.eoncredgroup.com/amp/what-is-Black-Film-Faced-Plywood-id8211963.html

You never know.....my brand new skidsteer in 2009 came with a bad alternator

I think that the position control lever is different than the 3 pt lever that raises and lowers the actual 3 pt hitch. i do not have a position control lever on my mf1540; just a 3 pt hitch lever. So.....it is possible that you are using the wrong levers to raise and lower the 3 pt hitch. I...

One other comment to the OP - if you have additional identical hoses, and you end up getting a new hose for the one that split open, you may want to replace the other ones in the same trip. Can just hang on to them until you need them (which you never will now that you have a new one standing...

For a field that I've mowed many times (so I know where any obstacles are), I take the loader off. It rides much smoother without the bucket/loader frame bouncing around.

agree with this; look at the alternator. Check the belts, etc. On my skidsteer, the rpm's and sometimes the fuel gauge would just start acting wacky. Eventually the alternator died. Put a new alternator in and everything worked fine. So....maybe it is indicating potential alternator...

i understood.....it's just that sometimes the best move is to take the time to get it fixed properly. Plus....I could not answer his questions regarding rerouting other hoses, etc. for the quick fix.

If you can take the whole hose off easily, just take it to a tractor or truck shop and have them make you a new one. Probably take them 15 minutes to do. Then it's done and you won't have to worry about ancillary issues.

I'd check Tractor Supply for gauge wheels - they seem to have a lot of generic parts like that

I have a DeWalt brand one - pretty much all the same, I assume. Works great.

How old is the fuel filter? Maybe change that first and see if it has any effect. I use Diesel Clean (silver container) in my fuel

even winter windshield washer fluid is expensive now - about $4 a gallon. I stock up at the beginning of each winter - paid $1.67 last Fall.

A trickle charger probably won't do much for a dead battery. if it were me, I'd stick a new one in. Nothing wrong with having an extra battery anyway. Batteries can be good, then not good a minute later - have learned that over the years.

If you are in high range, put it in the middle range instead.

I used a lawn roller like you describe to try to smooth out a rough yard; had no lasting effect. Neighbor owned a fairly large steam roller; borrowed that - same result. my advice is that they really don't accomplish anything. if you are smoothing out a rough area, best bet is to take the...

This has generic explanations of the light symbols....might help answer your question https://gmundcars.com/massey-ferguson-tractor-warning-light-meanings%EF%BF%BC/

This shows up in a search....not sure if it is the one you are thinking of https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/adding-a-right-side-grab-rail-on-an-l6060hst.383586/