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Assuming you have something like Craigslist in your area, maybe post an ad for a diesel mechanic in there.

This is exactly what I have to do with my 2007 1540......when the radiator is cool, I run the garden hose through the fins both sides. It's amazing the amount of gunk that comes out of what looks to be a clean radiator.

Thumping and bumping and shaking is all normal for these. You can always give it a good look over when its off to see if you see any evidence of something else, but my guess is that it is fine. if there was something wrong with the blades, i'd think you'd notice it while you were actually...

If you have the manual, there is usually a diagram in them showing all of the zerk locations.

just give it a firm whack......that'll stop the loop.....

Hammer on the brakes to break up the corrosion bond possibly.

If it were me, I'd see if the hoses are switched around (even though you've already checked). Pull them off and swap them.

Watched one of those History Channel (or whatever) "Amazing Ships" type show maybe six years ago.....was a ship of condos being built. People pay $2 million or so for a custom condo on a fully serviced ship and just cruise around the world forever. Obviously not the same as a basic cruise...

Never had to buy any parts. Everything is original. I do touch it up with a rattle can every few years - if I'm in the mood to pressure wash it.

Depends on many things.....good discussion here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1628697-6-2-vs-7-3-fuel-mileage-question.html

This thread will give you the answer......if it doesn't, just give your computer a whack.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/can-anyone-link-me-to-a-definition-of-a-firm-whack.451106/

My opinion.....I have learned over the years to buy only oem oil/fuel/hydraulic filters. Much cheaper in the end. Have had similar experiences to yours with non-oem filters.

Looks pretty much the same as my MF2006, which I purchased new around 2006. Use it on my MF1540 HST. Strong cutter, never had any issues with it. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking......

https://www.lawnsite.com/

Blade bolt is probably not tight; just get under it and tighten it. If you have not replaced the blade or blade bolts in years, it may be too worn to tighten again

i accidentally put same gas into my diesel tractor years ago. Probably had half diesel/half gas in it. Starting running really rough and stumbling pretty quick. That's why I asked at the beginning if it was stumbling or running smooth. It doesn't sound like you have gas in the system...

Google the filter number(s) and see what pops up. Usually dealer sites show up, and they are generally inline with other online pricing. That's what I do at least. My local dealer never has what I need in stock anyway.

No personal knowledge, but this video might help

https://reliancepowerparts.com/catalog/documents/tech-tips/parts-and-service-bulletins/kubota/fuel-systems/REL-KU2.10-2.pdf

I've never bent my brush guard (MF 1540). Just curious what you are running into/over with it? I'd be worried about whatever it is bending under the tractor and ripping out lines, wires, etc from underneath. If I'm brush hogging tall growth, I keep my loader on at a lower level to bend...

I use one of those. The trick is to not put any pressure on it, like you otherwise would with a bow saw. Just let the blade rest on the branch and start sawing. The course blades will start biting; just keep sawing ( fast and shorter bites seem to work better - use just about half of the...

Make sure all of your safety switches are in place - gears in neutral, pto off, etc.

Look at post #18 in this thread - he found his problem to be a piece of cardboard for packing purposes in the fuel filter. long shot, but worth looking at your fuel filter just to check. https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/diesel-runs-great-for-1-2-hour-then-very-low-power.13414/

you never know....sometimes the simplest thing can cause the problem. if it were me, I'd put a proper plug in there before doing anything else. Also...is your oil low?

When you say that the engine slows way down, is it still running smooth (like it would if you intentionally reduced the throttle), or is it sputtering/missing/rough?

How about your air filter? I always check that each spring before starting it due to critters nesting in it over the winter (and shredding the filter). Maybe it is clogged up.

There are many threads on this, even one with posts today. Yes - weight will certainly help, but there will be many instances when you have weight in the loader that the tractor will be light in the rear. You just have to work around it like you did.

I'm nearsighted, and have to take my glasses off in order to see things up close. Try to put them in a spot where I will remember, but it's harder than it seems when you can't see without your glasses. I keep a spare set in my car (because I figure my car will always be where I am), so I've...

I usually just use my brush hog as a counter weight. You have any attachments you can just stick on?

I'm no expert, but it kind of sounds like it slowly was losing its fuel source. if loosening the fuel cap as suggested above doesn't do anything the next time it starts sputtering, I'd put in a new fuel filter, even if the old one visibly looks good. Nothing really to lose with a new filter...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/draft-control-how-does-it-work.351630/

Wife had a 2013 Taurus that came with 20" low profile tires.....and a tpms i didn't drive it much, but would just kind of look it over as I was getting into my car. Rear tire looked a little "squished", but not too much. Checked the air - 9 psi. Found a stick in the tread. Asked her...

same here in the northeast......I use Google maps to search gas prices where I am. It's unexplainable how wide of a variation there can be. I got gas at $4.15 yesterday; the majority of stations are around $4.70.

Since it seems to be electrical related, I'd start by checking the fuses.

If it were me, I'd put it in neutral and pull it with a truck or something for a few feet to see if that magically releases something. may have no effect, but it's worth a shot. will have to have the engine running I assume since it's an hst

If there's not much room to move the wrench handle, if enough of the handle sticks out, try whacking it with a hammer. Usually that can break the bolt loose. That's the same concept as an impact wrench, but just a lot slower.

Sure it's not just a safety switch issue? In neutral, pto off, etc.....,

That happens to everyone..... Mowed for the first time this summer a few weeks ago with my zero turn; stopped to relieve myself. Could not re-start the mower. Started getting annoyed that it broke down on the first mow of the season. Then realized that I forgot to disengage the blade...

I would definitely recommend chains on at least the rear tires. I have loaded tires and 4wd, but chain up every winter. Last thing you want to worry about when you're working in a snowstorm is getting stuck. Having chains on gives you added traction/digging/grip in deep snow. Gives me...

I'm no mechanic, but I wouldn't think a dead battery would cause all of that. Maybe when jumping it, a fuse for the safety switches blew. my suggestion would be to check all fuses; might be more than one fuse box. Manual should list them. Surprised the dealer did not do that when they came...

Just told someone this afternoon that I was ready for some snow.....

i keep a Bernzomatic around; comes in handy, including in the winter when I need to melt ice on my snowblower fan. you say that yours doesn't stay lit- do you have it turned up all the way?

This thread might be of some help/insight...... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/gc2610-four-way-signals-not-working-one-side.326632/

Just an average homeowner here, but rather than try to vacuum up the clippings, wouldn't it be better to just mow frequently (every day?) so that there are basically minuscule clippings?

If you're blowing snow with the loader on, for the larger densely packed snow/drifts, you can always break it up (fluff it up) with the loader first, then blow it away with the snowblower. Takes some time, but sometimes it's the easiest way.

It's so clean and new looking, it may not have come from the tractor, especially with the washer still intact on it.

https://www.kubotausa.com/contact/faq/where-is-the-serial-number-for-my-tractor-located

Same general experience as Richard's post above......only hoses that have leaked/cracked were the loader hoses for the dump/curl on my 17 year old tractor. First one leaked maybe two years ago; another one last summer, so I replaced the remaining three at the same time rather than wait until...

Used a 5 ton dual axle equipment trailer with a 16' wood deck and flip down ramps to haul my tracked skidsteer. Trailer capacity was 4 tons, which was just about what the skidsteer weighed with the bucket on it. Handled it fine (towed with a 2011 F350 6.2l)

Used to store it in the garage and then wheel it outside to run it. Preference would have been to keep it in a little shed by itself with openings at the roofline for sufficient ventilation

Sometimes the mower deck or mower itself will have a sticker somewhere (under the seat) that provides part numbers for any belts. If not look in the manual. It's possible that a piece of the belt is missing from the old broken belt (so maybe it was really 146"). one you determine that you...

I'd leave them on; keeps them nice and clean inside. Should be able to release any pressure by just wiggling the joystick around. Even if there is pressure, it's not going to cause any problems.

I'm not familiar with this, but if there is actually room to raise the deck to the level that you want, a work around may be to simply chain it up somehow at that height. There would be consequences, of course - mainly that the deck would not be able to follow the ground contours as well.

I clean out a little detention pond every few years when it gets dry enough; has great soil. I just put it in a pile off to the side to dry good and let stuff grow on it. When I need some, I just turn it over and fluff it up with the loader.

I buy cases of the Brake Cleen (I think) spray. Usually each can comes with the spray straw taped to it. Latest case came with no straws at all. My guess is that, due to supply shortages, that may now be the norm. used to throw the straws away; now I have to scrounge and save.

and tires......don't forget the tires......(ha ha) Looks nice; you will enjoy it. I wouldn't have had the patience to wait that long.

Sounds to me like a safety switch issue; that's where I'd start at least. make sure everything is in neutral - move the levers around. Check all of the wires that you see - actually look at them; move them around a bit. I had a seat safety switch wire on my zero turn break apart on me; no...

same here - use the same grease/grease gun on all of my equipment - mowers, snowblowers, etc. i just buy a case of the red tubes of heavy duty grease at Tractor Supply

Interesting; I always wondered how the heck that was done (multiple quotes).......good to know. Unfortunately I will probably never remember how to do it when I want to do it......

Just a quick comment regarding the filter - if it were me, I'd use oem filters for oil/fuel/hydro oil - there can be minor differences with after market filters. I think it's worth the little bit of extra money. just my personal opinion of course.......

Can you temporarily remove the ball valve (put it back the way it was) to see if that eliminates your problem? It's always possible that something else may be the cause, so best to at least rule out the ball valve.

I don't know about that specifically, but having just dealt with removing a spindle lock on a zero turn mower deck that, in theory, should have popped right off, my suggestion would be to soak it with penetrating oil (PB Blaster) for a day to possibly loosen it up. It may be that you are...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/pressed-in-zerk-fittings-removal.360152/ For new ones, they basically just tap in gently. There are videos out there to see how it's done

This thread may provide the general solution..... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/mahindra-3540-3-point-control-issue.410586/

i got the Dewalt one a few years ago too. Very strong; like it better than the gas ones. Battery seems to last about 45 minutes. Bought extra batteries to have extras ready to go.

In general (not specific to your brand), I personally find that it is easier to do that type of work with implements off. Just easier access to everything. Just my preference.

The linked thread posts other links to manuals for the American model - might find a part number in there and then Google it. if nothing comes up, look in Tractor Supply for something similar. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/yanmar-ym2000-manuals-green-tractor.150493/

they do come in handy though if you're out somewhere and someone needs a jump; safer to use a jump box vs jumping vehicle to vehicle. Also handy in case the dead vehicle is in a tight spot that jumper cables wouldn't reach.

doesn't show up in this link, but looks to be early 70s based on the "9a" prefix......just a guess though https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/tractor-serial-numbers/massey-ferguson-tractor-serial-numbers

I'd check the fuses...,

agree....I have them in all my vehicles and in the garage for my equipment. They maintain a charge a long time, are powerful, and can do multiple jump starts between charges. They are also compact and idiot proofed. They are expensive, but eorth it.

I have no knowledge about that equipment, and am not a mechanic......so here's what I would try as a simple residential user. (1) shut it off, and then re-start it. (2) maybe loosen the couplings as you mention, let a little fluid dribble out, re-tighten, then start it up and try it. (3)...

Agree with setxjefff above - most large truck shops have a full size hydraulics shop that can make you a new hose if you don't have a tractor repair shop near you.

What is it that you will be lifting? Just wondering if what you need to do could be done with a chain(s) or strap around the bucket instead of heavier forks; that would help reduce the weight limitations a bit.

agree.....I stopped responding/trying to help the ones that have just one post. Occasionally they'll come back with a second post, and I'll chime in if I can be of (potential) help.

Diagrams here.... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/belt-diagrams-kubota-z122r.412115/ Belts can stretch over time too and not stay tight. Had that happen on my zero turn last summer - belt would pop off occasionally on rougher terrain, or if I bumped the deck into something...

If it lasted since 2008, I'd get the same one if they are still available.

Make sure that you are in low gear. Sometimes just have to go slower, even with larger tractors, or even make multiple passes.

Just saw this driving down my road this morning at a neighbors house - as I drove towards it, saw what looked like a utility truck working on some wires Turned out to be a pick up truck pulling a trailer with a tractor with a backhoe on it. The "elbow" of the boom and stick had snagged and...

Agree with KennyG - if you don't know if it was full to begin with, you don't really know how much you lost. I'd just fill it, check the fill level before you put it away next winter, and then see how much, if any, you really are losing over the winter. obviously if you fill it now, and it's...

Can also use a pry bar to maybe line up the hole a little better. my pins have a slightly tapered end, which helps. If you happen to have another tapered pin/bar that's long enough to go through that, try using that pin just to get it in line. I've also moved the tractor ever so slightly to...

May sound simplistic, but after you cleaned the tank, did you fill it with a new source of fuel (far using what you had in hand)? Just in case the fuel you have is contaminated.

Diagram in this link shows it https://www.manualslib.com/manual/881820/Mahindra-2816-Hst.html?page=121

Skidsteer with a snowblower - when I'm done blowing snow, I lift the blower up high and tilt it all the way down and shake it to knock off excess snow before putting it in the garage. Was too close to the house, and when I was shaking the blower, the back end slid into the side of the garage...

To put the pins in my loader pin holes when it wasn't lining up nicely, I'd just use a 10 lb sledge hammer to pound it in. Always worked fine.

Maybe to stop it from swinging open while carrying it.

understood.... In my case, the guy I bought the house from had a 50 gallon hot water heater. Was in poor condition and very inefficient. Unique situation, of course. I measured the savings based on my year to year propane purchases; was easy to track and measure. Regardless, they are...

about 15 years ago I remodeled my basement and got rid of my hot water tank and put in a tankless water heater (both on propane). That tankless water heater cost about $2,000, and I think paid for itself within two years due to the savings. Plus nice long hot showers. I always advise...

Purchased a new skidsteer in 2009; dealer said to keep the battery disconnected when not in use or else the battery would drain. He was correct. Put a quick disconnect on and did that for about five years; worked fine. Alternator died in year six; put a new one in. For the heck of...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/how-to-read-the-dipstick.434105/

Look at post #17 in this thread - maybe it's those shims? Wouldn't be oily though. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/xg3025-recall.389084/page-2

I didn't see it in your list of things you did, so try a new belt. worst case is that you end up with a spare belt, which you'll need at some point anyway. belts can slowly stretch over time. Even just a tiny bit will affect it.

Assisted living or nursing home? I've dealt with both. Have to keep an eye on both; visit every day and basically take control of things in a nice way. One thing to note about Assisted Living facilities is that they do not provide any medical care other than a nurse dispensing...

yes...I understand. worst case is use the BFH.......that'll stop any blinking and beeping.....

You can buy smooth turf tracks for skidsteers

Assuming the 50 hour service includes an oil change, just write the date and hours on the oil filter. Or.....keep a new oil filter on your shelf and write it on the filter box (just May be easier to notice/remind you)

Some local dealers might still have the old part in stock; just call around and ask. I've found that the local dealer pricing on parts is generally quite close to internet pricing.

Nothing wrong with giving it a good cleaning. Not something you have to do each year. Maybe that's ten years worth of gunk after a lot of hours. I have to remove a belly pan/skid plate on my skidsteer to change the oil. Usually scrape the crud off when I do. Otherwise mine is pretty...

offer him $1,000; nothing wrong with that. If he wants to get rid of it, he might accept it. If he doesn't, say "ok", then maybe check if he still has it for sale in a few weeks at a reduced price - if he does, offer the $1,000 again.

I just put that new dangled cap/funnel on the ground and use a regular funnel. I don't know how you could make the funnel that comes with the gas can work in any position other than straight down (like into a push lawn mower). The fuel fill spout on my skidsteer is chest high on the side.

My chains came with cross links to keep them from sinking in between the lugs. These keep more than enough chain above the links to provide traction. Maybe add these to your chains.

If it were me, before messing with anything on the tractor, I'd take the attachment off the 3 pt and then see if the arms go down further with nothing attached. That would eliminate that at least. You would have to push down on the arms after the leer is in the lowered position.

Or maybe mix in some Quikcrete with the stone you put into the pothole to help hold it all in place

agree with 5030 here....get rid of that quick hitch. i tried one of those many years ago; could not get anything to attach correctly. Big pia...... the quick hitch has been sitting in the weeds ever since I didn't read thewhole thread, so maybe this was already resolved.

As high up as possible with no obstructions is always the best, at least in my opinion as a driver on the road and being able to spot it. For example, I'm in snow country, and it's easy to spot plows working in driveways with snow banks when they have a bright orange light flashing on their...

I'm no mechanic - just a tractor owner (Mf1540 now) for about 20 years. Just do the basic maintenance myself though. what I would do is fill up the hydraulic fluid to the full point first and see what happens. It could be just that simple. I have a skidsteer that I was having problems...

I grease whenever I'm in the mood. Tend to go around and do all of the equipment in one shot. definitely do summer equipment (ie: mower) before I put it away for the winter and before I use it for the first time in the summer. grease winter equipment (ie: skidsteer with blower) on a day...

I do about three acres with my zero turn in about an hour. If the land was smoother, could do it in about 45 minutes. Have a Ferris diesel with suspension. used to take me close to 3 hours with a 3 pt finish mower on the tractor. both have (had) six foot mower decks.

Since it's used, maybe somebody replaced them at some point. doesn't answer your zero question though. Can you use a needle point on the grease gun to get some grease in them?

Maybe one of the safety switches is bad or their wiring has come loose. I'd check those out first if you haven't already done so.

I'd wait for them to service it since it's brand new. If you try to fix it, they may say you caused it. it's possible that something wasn't tightened/installed properly when they set it up and has come loose. things happen with new stuff. It's annoying, but once it's fixed, you probably...

Or just wait for a Tesla tractor........

Any piece of equipment is prone to breakdowns, repairs, etc. my personal experience with tractors (just 20 to 40 hp "homeowner" tractors) over the past 20 years is that I did not have any "brand" related issues. Just normal repairs (hoses, alternators, etc - wear items, I guess you could...

Machines make life so much easier......it's like when you're moving dirt with a loader, and one clump of dirt isn't cooperating so you get out to move it by hand and you discover it's too heavy to move manually.

just to add to this - put heavy wood blocking down on at least four points and rest the mower on those to make it more stable. Even though it is heavy, when you're below it pulling on the wire , it could still move. best method may be to flip it over with a loader, or tip it up on its side...

If everything was working fine before you changed the hydraulic filters and oil, then I would start there. While it may be a pain, the possible simple solution may be to replace the filters and oil with ones specified for that tractor. That is what I would do at least.

Check with various dealers (any brand) in your area in case they took in a used one as a trade. They usually list used equipment on their website, but it's never a complete list of what they have.

I pour the fluid into one of those pour cans with a spout first, then use whatever funnel I have that fits best into the fill hole. Then pour a little bit, check the level, pour some more, repeat.....

Agree with Mikester above.....give it some time and you will get used to how it works before you modify things. I increase/decrease the throttle as needed for better hydraulic response too.

Same experience here.....bought the same quick hitch many years ago when my tractor was my primary equipment and I had to change implements alot - could not get it to work with any of them; it actually made it more complicated if I recall. Ended up never using it. It sits in my junk pile...

Depends on what you are hauling. Maybe lay some long tow straps on the deck from right to left (not front to back). Then lay a tarp on top of the straps. Then put all of your stuff you are hauling on top of the tarp. Then tarp/strap everything down as you normally would for the drive. At...

Similar recent thread..... https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/kioti-zero-turn-mowers.447685/

it depends - just go slower it it is rough ground. Raise the deck if necessary. it's very easy to get stuck in slightly wet/muddy areas with zero turns (in my experience), so just make sure it's dry enough. When I get stuck, I just pull it out with the tractor.

What I do ....... after it's hooked back up and working correctly, put your own color coded zip ties on the matching lines, then also take a picture to keep on your phone for future reference (just in case) I do that before I take stuff apart (phone picture); has made life easier when putting...

When you say the deck falls off, does the entire deck come off, just the front, just the back end, just the right side, just the left side......?

I have clamp on forks that use basically the same tightening method. I've only used them a few times, but to help reduce the side to side movement and loosening issue, I put a piece of wood between the clamp and the bucket so that the clamp tightens onto the wood instead of the bucket directly...

I learned my lesson years ago. whenever I change tires (ie: summer to winter tires), I spray a liberal amount of WD40 on both the hub and studs (lug nut threads) before putting the tire back on. Never had any problems since. breaker bar works though in situations like this; just tap/hit the...

it all depends on the track pattern. If they have the larger block style pattern, they will be terrible. The tracks with the straight line treads are much better; zig zag pattern even better. They're all terrible on ice, but manageable (just slow the revs down to get a better grip...

This is the site glass on my MF1540 - that gold colored thing circled in red it's "gold" colored because that's the actual fluid you are looking at

Can't answer your question about the water pump, but if it were me, I'd first go around and make sure everything is nice and tight (ie:hose clamps, bolts, etc), just to eliminate the potential simple fixes first.

I initially used a tractor with a 3 pt finish mower. Bought a zero turn maybe five years later to take over the finish mowing; love it. Also used the tractor with a 3 pt snowblower. Decided to buy a tracked skidsteer with a heated cab and front blower; love it. still have all the...

I don't, but this video shows up in a search if this helps at sll

Briggs & Stratton makes the Ferris mowers now I believe.

I'd try to sell it first, especially this time of year (Spring soon). people do have funds; I've sold a number of large ticket items the past few years - cleaning out years of accumulated stuff. It's surprising (to me) how much actual cash people must be stashing.

have the is5100z - pre emissions 33 hp (I think) diesel

No experience with Kioti zero turns, but I used to mow about 3 acres with a 3 pt 5' finish mower on my MF1540 - took about 3 hours and killed my back. bought a Ferris zero turn; can mow the 3 acres in 45 minutes (also 5' deck). It has suspension springs on it too. Being able to mow so quickly...

i see do you know if the spindle is not damaged? Maybe you need the spindle too.

Make sure you are in neutral? sounds like a safety switch preventing a start. Wiggle all of the levers.

manual with parts diagrams https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1525/0052/files/Wright_Fence_Mower_Manual_060518.pdf?13424849061123318114

If you have the machine in your possession, either just measure it, or take it off and take it to any tractor or mower shop around you to see they have a replacement. Pulleys are generally common items, so it may be easy to find one.

Try searching on here.......if I'm trying to find a part, I usually look at the parts diagrams on sellers sites if I have nothing else available. https://www.propartsdirect.net/wright-mower-parts.aspx

Crude futures up about 10% right now.....not going down anytime soon. I top off the tanks every day to avoid the next days increases - easily $.20 a day.

If it works, that's all you need. Just pushing snow around. Anything is better than shoveling....... boards may warp after awhile due to the snow melting/freezing, but easily replaceable

Glad you got it working. good that you posted the solution too - that helps the next guy searching the same issue.

My gas supply.......now worth 20 billion rubles.......

Comparisons....... https://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/for-sale/deere/325g/track-skid-steers/1072

yes - backing up is safer/more stable. Put an attachment on your 3 pt to add rear weight. If you hook the strap to the loader (that's what I would do), keep the loader as low as possible when actually dragging. just go slow and low.....may take longer, but in the end it is safer.

With your tractor at the top of the slope, maybe use long straps/chains to tie onto the log. Then back up as far as you can, stabilize the log, re-set the strap/chain and back up again. Just keep doing that until the log is at the top.

good point re: the caster wheels. the video he posted shows it in operation; maybe it's meant for just those slower warm weather jobs (not for snow clean up)

Agree with Roustabout above.....try swapping the hoses. If the connections are different, might have to swap the connections on the mower side.

Different sweeper, but the general concept should be the same......page 20 of this manual shows how to change the rotation direction via the gearbox. http://www.sweepsterbrooms.com/manuals/RHFA%2051-4150.pdf

Check the manual; I'd think that would be a common question that would be addressed in it. I have never used one myself, so have no clue other than mechanically reversing something along the pto shaft

If you wipe it off, does it re-appear? maybe clean it off and put a vinyl repair patch (or gorilla tape) over the spot and see what happens

I don't use mine much anymore either, but like to change the engine oil at least every two years. I just use regular (non-synthetic) oil. takes me a year of telling myself "just do it" to get it done......

Note that hour meters can be replaced, and start at zero. Not saying that applies in this case, but just keep that in mind. General comparison (two years ago)...

If there are no tractor dealers with a shop to make hydraulic hoses around you, look for a truck shop (dump truck, tractor trailer, etc - not a pick up truck shop) - they have very well equipped hydraulic hose departments.

I think, in general, there are going to be good and some bad tractors within each model series for any manufacturer. Sometimes it depends on the dealer. most reviews on the internet will be inherently negative because people usually post when things go wrong vs when everything is working...

It's not too large for light snow days. you always have the option of shoveling if you don't want to use the tractor.......(ha ha) can keep the utv for another season as a backup; if it turns out that you don't use it at all, then sell it at that point.

I would always put it all of the way down on asphalt and let it float. note that you can/should adjust the angle of the blower (up or down) via the top link. As you lengthen the top link, it pushes the snowblower down at a slightly sharper angle so that the scrapper edge digs in more (or the...

that's what I do too; just look at new posts first. I'm up at 3 am and skim through them while having my coffee. There were alot of those CBD posts this morning. They are gone now.

I use an IPhone 8+ with an ad blocker. I don't get any spam or ads on my phone. I do see, of course, the spam postings on the forums.

I assume all of those CBD type posts are done by bots......probably have to start using Captcha to eliminate them

Not sure if this helps since it's a different model.... https://www.conequip.com/serial-number-kubota-backhoe/ This thread from a few years ago may help tooo https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/l35-bt900-cylinder-parts-seals.376011/

If it were me, I'd put a cloth over it, then use pliers or vice grips (just snuggly tightened) to get a good grip and then gently wiggle/twist back and forth while pulling up.

I don't, but if it were me, I'd wait until you get your specific loader and then take the measurements yourself. That will ensure that it will be exactly correct. I say that because it's possible that someone else's measurements/holes my be just slightly different than yours, enough so that...

How are you determining that it's not in 4wd? it can be hard to tell with a tractor; it's not like a truck. before you "fix" anything, I'd make sure that it's definitely not working The second post in this thread describes a way to check if the 4wd is actually engaged...

If there are no rollers to rent, including a 3 pt roller drum (that you fill with water or sand), an option is to just slowly drive a heavy vehicle over it. Kind of a pain since the tires have a small contact area compared to a roller, but 300' isn't that huge. If your friend has the...

Agree with Priberc - I've never taken apart/cleaned the water separater on any of my diesel equipment. I also know that if I fix stuff that doesn't need fixing to begin with, then things will likely go downhill quickly...... if you see that something is wrong with it, then obviously fix it...

Don't know if this helps - just from a Google search...... https://spare.avspart.com/catalog/newholland/673313/1425351/

Agree with ^^ at least take the fuel filter off, check it and the bowl and the o ring and then reinstall it. Maybe it didn't go on right the first time and air is getting in. Doesn't hurt to try.

Many threads on this....here's one https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/forks-bolt-on-do-they-work.430811/

Many threads....here's one https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/is-there-a-need-for-a-coolant-overflow-tank.373163/page-4

Once you have the specs or a part number, just Google it. The results should give you a good idea as to what they are generally selling for. Then call your tractor dealer and ask for a price; if he's in the general ballpark with the prices you found, just buy from him. Good karma.....

If you don't have a battery jump box, maybe just temporarily pull a battery out of a vehicle and hook it up directly to the tractor (vs jumping).

Agree with mountainbuck above......my thought when reading your post was that maybe you were sent the wrong part, so double check that first.

I guess the first thing that I would check is to make sure the front axle/case is lubed or full of axle oil

I have a Generac 18kw whole house generator that runs on propane. Have the cold weather package on it (warms the oil and battery below 50 I think); I'm in the northeast installed around 2006; cost was about $6,000 I think. No issues other than the built in trickle charger went whacko one...

No annual inspections of tanks required by NYS. I purchased my tanks in 2008 from the company that supplied the propane to them for a few years. my guess is that, if you switch suppliers, the new supplier will inspect the tanks first though before filling them.

I always lock in pre -season; don't like surprises -up or down (very rarely down though during the winter). Average spot price in NY now is about $3.30 per the NYS energy board. locked in pre-season at $1.75. I own my tanks though.

Off hand I'd say try a shorter top link; not sure how short your existing one retracts to. you can also lengthen the lower links as you describe. Won't hurt anything.

Maybe the hydraulic fluid is simply cold enough to be ever so slightly transforming into a solid (almost a slight waxy look). I've never had that problem myself, so I'm just guessing. If it runs fine after the warm up, I wouldn't worry about it too much. when the weather turns warmer...

basically the same here.....I try to do the basic maintenance, hose replacements, etc, but leave the real repairs to the dealer. I don't mind paying someone who knows how to do it and do it correctly versus an idiot (me) that will just make things worse and cost more in the end. I'm old...

Don't know anything about the neutral safety switch. check your battery voltage first similar thread that might help: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc30-wont-start.328771/

Everything in neutral to start? Wiggle things around. usually you can't just unplug the safety switch; probably have to jump it after you unplug it - a wire connecting the two female slots.

https://kpad.kubota.com/books/2422/features/921 Or if that link doesn't work https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

I had to disable the seat safety switch on my MF1540. Seat was frozen and could not detect any weight in the seat, so couldn't use it to blow snow. Dealer told me how to disable it. I only hook it up if I let the neighbor use it to mow his field.

I don't know anything about that tractor specifically, but if it's the hst pedals, look up at them underneath the tractor and see if the return spring(s) are still there. Maybe they are hanging, fell off, or broke.

Did the pedal return to the neutral position? maybe a chunk or ice/snow jammed it temporarily. in general, sometimes I have to force the pedal back to neutral on my MF; just a little nudge with my toe or heel

I've had a 1540 HST since 2004; no issues. Good little work horse.....

Rather than dealing with finding a complete replacement seat, maybe just buy some foam padding at a hobby store and modify the seat and/or back support with custom cushions. Would have many more options that way. I did that for my car seat; I do occasional long distance driving and the car...

Maybe for the time being just scrounge up a rubber plug to stick in there until you get a new site glass. can make a rudimentary temporary plug by rolling duct tape into a plug shape - taper one end a bit and leave a good amount sticking out so that you can pull it out.

Different model discussed here, but same concept, so may help https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/gc1705-sight-glass.426104/

I'm not familiar with that tractor, but generally you can just stick in replacement LED bulbs. Just get your bulb numbers.

His manual that he posted a picture of does show it as B-73. Kind of odd that that model is not showing up in the Ber Vac info though.

sometimes if you Google the part number, info will come up regarding measurements, etc.

I used to use my tiller to break up the grass/soil, then scoop it up. The tiller not only cut into the dirt, but made it nice and loose. No big dirt chunks.

Can you just use the blower going downhill, then just back up (or drive forward) back to the top without blowing going uphill? Or just take maybe 1/4 bite if you snowblow going uphill. either that or gain 200 pounds........

Ber Vac list, but they don't show a B73 model..... https://jswoodhouse.com/brochures/Bervac%20shearbolt%20list-Updated-4.pdf

The fact "she" says "clear title" is the first red flag, because tractors do not have a title like a car does.