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If it came with a Mahindra loader, then closed center, load sensing it is NOT. It will be simple open center, power beyond capable, but that's it. I can't think of a Mahindra model with closed center load sensing hydraulics. Maybe someone else can.

You're not just "the lucky guy". Quality control on "new" tractors is dismal, and in too many cases, so is the predelivery service done on many of them. The starting/clicking problem could be from a number of things. Battery, cable (or other related) connections, or an actual defective part...

Just curious, what model year was this 40C? The early ones were built by Shibaura, the later ones, again, by LS. Totally different tractors.

The Workmaster series tractors were (at one time) a pretty good machine. In 2015 that changed. They are now an LS based machine, and an absolute train wreck. Nothing in common with the older tractors except four tires and blue paint No doubt the salesman was eager to help. I'm sure they find it...

My experience, a GOOD hose supplier won't crimp new fittings on an old hose. If that's your plan, it's your plan. Not something I would nor recommend. As for the reusable fittings, unless the removing the bad hose is a three day job, using them as a "temporary" fix is a waste time and money...

You switched which couplers? The suggestion was to switch all four couplers. Move the lift cylinder lines to the present bucket cylinder spool and see what that brings.

It's a battery cable. Doesn't matter what brand it is. You can get one at any parts house. Just don't get a lightweight cable for automotive use. Get one at least 2 gauge, nothing smaller than that.

Go back and try again. You either crossed the controls or the hoses. If it works, only backwards on the controls you haven't damaged anything, just crossed something up.

How about control cables? When you move the curl/dump lever from end to end does the resistance feel equal and stroke feel equal both ways? A cable giving up could be as likely as anything else in this case. Switching hoses from the A spool to the B spool might tell you something. If the problem...

Is this a hose or a steel line? I think some are confused on that. Steel line, if the leak is at all accessible, I would probably try just brazing up the hole. Have done that many many times and most are still out there running. Unless the hole is on the bottom, I wouldn't bother taking it off...

Revisit "Plus the tach does not work". With most computer controlled transmissions they monitor engine RPM (input shaft speed) and output shaft speed. If the computer doesn't like the two readings at any given point it can default to neutral. Or in some cases, just never actually go into the...

Yes, it could be any/all of the above. Experience tells me if the shift lever "feels" right, and one can feel the detents for both neutral and "engaged" then it's not roll pin or shift linkage related. Much more likely it's some chewed up gears on the inside. I've seen and repaired far more of...

Yes, the seal is leaking for a reason. The most likely reason is that it's fifty years old. Once you get off into the seal replacement, you will have a better idea of how much fun replacing the bushings can be. I've done the seals a few times, but have never changed the bushings. I doubt I would...

The short answer. Live with the leak until you're ready to pay someone to fix it.

You did all this BECAUSE it doesn't start, or you did all this and NOW it doesn't start?

Have you given any thought to the hydraulics? Cold oil is a well known parasitic load on any starter. Are you sure you have a low enough viscosity fluid for cold weather use? Does it have a destroke solenoid valve on the pump and is it working?

It's inside the tractor. It's part of the PTO clutch valve package...

This is by no means a "normal auto trans". Once the engine is unbolted from the clutch housing (bell housing in automotive terms) it will simply slide forward. Nothing inside needs to be unbolted, as it just has a transmission shaft (or two) splined into a clutch disc or drive plate. The engine...

That's one opinion. Here's another. Personally, for me it's a moot point as I don't do engine work any more, but I still pull a few motors for rebuilds. I wouldn't split the tractor either, and certainly wouldn't attempt an in frame overhaul on that size tractor. I would strip the sheet metal...

All those answers up there yet still no answer to your question. As always, the devil is in the details. You have an open station tractor, we know that, but there (at least) three different transmissions it could have (which one, we don't know yet) so a leak in that area could mean at least...

If you're new to this game, be careful when pushing the gland into the cylinder. I usually use a hammer and brass punch so as not to nick the shaft. Also don't push it in any farther than it takes to deal with the inner wire ring. If you go too far you can block off the oil port which will trap...

John Deere is the only cylinder that I've ever seen requiring that stupid tool. If it has an external snap ring, remove that and try pushing the gland in to see if that exposes another internal ring. That's how most cylinder of that style are made.

Then start with a pressure gauge and see what pressure it has when loaded. Then you'll know more about what you need to do next.

Question is what does the first, neutral, second gear shift feel like? Like normal, but it's always in second whether the shifter is in first or neutral?

Assuming it does the same thing in first gear as well? My take is this. If in neutral it acts like it's in second gear, then it IS in second gear. So what happens when you actually put it in second gear? Or does it not feel like it will shift into second gear? I'm curious about the first gear...

That's the first step. The factory cables are too short to reach the engine block. Try using a jumper cable with one clamp on the negative battery post, the other clamp on the tractor frame or engine block. If that makes ANY positive improvement in your issue, then get/make a longer ground cable...

Cable colors aren't nearly as important as where they go. Is the ground cable long enough to bolt to the engine block or does it bolt to metal framework on the battery tray. The latter can be a major source of problems with carrying sufficient current to operate the starter.

Dry clutch tractor? Pedal free play checked/adjusted recently?

Tinkertoy tractor/backhoes have their share of problems too. And I doubt this one will still be running/working when it's fifty years old..

Actually, those links can indeed fail for no particular reason, and going crazy looking for a problem that doesn't exist can be counter productive. I usually hook up a quick jumper wire in its place and start turning things on. If everything works and no problems appear. I replace the part and...

Lots of opinions out there on using (or not using) readymade hoses, for various reasons. Are they the greatest product available? Hell no! But are they worth what they cost? I think so. I've used them many times in many applications, loader hoses included. Have I seen one fail because of...

I think you need to do a better job on your explanation. You had the seat off, and possibly part of the tinware below that to access the fuel tank? None of which SHOULD impact the hydraulic system in any way. What part of the hydraulics are you having problems with? What works and what doesn't?

Have you checked for a fusible link? It would be near the battery cable post on the starter. All power to the system would have to go through it, so if it blows nothing works.

Not suggesting the seller, merely pointing out the product and it's features. It has all the features I look for when installing a loader valve. Not that it matters, but I failed to see your location listed anywhere.

Yes indeed. No shortage of them. This is one I have used many times. I've had good luck with them. There are many others as you have seen, at many prices. This too is available from other suppliers at varying prices. It's features check all the boxes I look for in a typical small tractor loader...

Any 10 GPM valve should work for you. Dozens of them out there to choose from.

Can you post some photos of the system you have? How to test the primer pump? If I were doing that, I would not remove it from the injection pump. I would simply remove the pressure side line from wherever it goes (probably the filter base inlet) and work the hand pump. Does it pump any fuel? If...

You're on the right track, but missed the point on the fuel lines. Are they still the original lines wrapped in steel braid? If so, that needs to be changed before changing anything else. Cut through the crimp sleeves, remove and replace all the hose sections with good quality rubber fuel hose...

Here's a long shot, but have you replaced the fuel lines yet? I would be amazed if it still has the original braided steel covered lines. Those were problematic even when that tractor was new, so they should have been discarded years ago.

Yes, water can settle under the oil, provided it's not mixed first. Cracking drain plugs might help in many cases, but only if the water is discovered BEFORE starting and running the tractor.

I've seen this suggestion mentioned more than once, so I can't help but ask. Have you actually done this with any success at all? My experience with water contaminated transmissions has shown the fluid can be drained, refilled, drained, refilled, possibly four of five times and watery oil is...

Sounds like it needs cable attention more than another battery.

So what exactly is it you disconnect that makes the lift work as it should?

I have never seen that valve setup before, so I have no idea how it could be affecting the lift system, but it sure seems like this is where your problem is coming from. With both valve spools in neutral there should be no effect at all on the lift system or any loading up of the hydraulic pump...

What type remote hydraulics is the tractor equipped with? What and how does your attachment figure into the remotes? Sure sounds like a possible conflict there.

Just exactly what is that? You're claiming this is part of some power steering kit?

I can't help but ask. Does your loader valve have six lines or seven? It SHOULD have seven. If only six, that might help explain PART of situation.

I can understand the frustration. Not asking for specific names, but I'm curious as to the size of this dealership, and what (if any) other tractor lines they sell? I have my own views on Mahindra as a whole, and how well they work with their dealers when it comes to service issues and parts...

That's a relief valve, flow control, possibly flow divider type of thing. I doubt there's any strainers in there.

What information do you nee that you can't find? I think the 238 was made for slightly larger tractors, but If you have both tractor and loader on site, you should be able figure out fairly quickly if it's too big. Brackets can always be modified if you have (or know someone who has) the...

Not exactly. That may eliminate the backhoe hydraulics from the equation, but it still leaves the tractor's rear hydraulics in play. (three point, and whatever else might be there) I can't see how all the plumbing is laid out, so I can't speak to specific lines, fittings, or hoses. All I'm...

One more thing that comes to mind. You stated there is another fitting somewhere on the valve. The two ports I can see in one photo are marked in and out. Is the the third port marked as well? If so with what? I'm wondering if it's BYD or something similar. I see three hard lines in one photo...

From what I see in the photos, that valve is probably well past it's prime, but in any case spool valves are not effectively "rebuildable". Just look for a ten GPM loader valve and plan to swap it out. Those valves are easy to find and pretty cheap in most cases.

Usually when someone has problems with either the lift or curl functions and wants to determine if the valve is part (or all) of the problem they can set the loader down, shut the engine off, then work both levers back and forth a few times. When everything stops moving, unplug the couplers for...

The parts breakdown I found doesn't even show any of the hydraulic parts. It sounds to me like maybe you bought yourself a problem. If other tractors like it do the same thing, it may leave you with few choices. (none of them very appealing) 1) Live with it. 2) Adding an extra reservoir and...

You say the "bucket" is the part with the problem. Assuming that's the bucket/tilt circuit, and the boom up/down circuit works just fine? Also assuming then, you have tried swapping the lift and curl circuits between valve spools just for effect and found what? The same thing occurs with that...

I see four work ports, and one probable return port. Assuming the pressure in line is on the left side (out of sight) and the protrusion on the right side may be a power beyond sleeve with another port (also out of sight) ? If that's the case, that would be a total of seven ports. Yes/no? If so...

Somehow I find those sales numbers hard to believe. I have no facts to dispute the claim, but 500+ LS tractors a year is more than I wrap my head around. How many outlets does this dealership have? Sounds like they must be bigger than Walmart. On the loader valve oil leaks. If it's a common...

These manufacturer websites with online parts books are as handy as a shirt pocket. Particularly for those who work on a variety of stuff where service manuals are unavailable. Once you learn to navigate on them, they can be most helpful.

https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com003tc/4-cyl-compact-tractor-north-america/operators-platform-cab/hand-throttle-assembly/cn/021FACC1-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/910EAD4F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 Item #1 is the adjustment. As you tighten the nut it...

Nothing "new" is really worth having if you plan to use it, not just look at it. No matter what the description says, everything out there today is just cheap cast iron with shiny paint. Look around for something old. Yes, Wilton would be a top choice, but hard to find at a decent price. There...

Excellent starting point. Don't worry about air filters, fuel filters, coolant levels or motor oil type, or any of that. You already know those don't enter into this. The air is coming in between the oil in the reservoir and the hydraulic pump, one way or another. Only so many links in that...

If you're hoping for any meaningful help, you might start by identifying which transmission you have. The hydraulics between the two will be similar in some respects but certainly different in others.

A few possibilities come to mind. Transmission case pressure? Have you located and checked the vent for the main housing? Not necessarily a common problem but you can't rule it out without checking. Another is the seal itself. Is this a mostly rubber backed seal without a metal jacket on the...

I would DEFINITELY stay away from that mechanic. His imagination may have stretched, but your rods haven't.

Welding up the splines and grinding them to fit won't last long, but you have little to lose but your time and effort. Same with a jury rigged extended coupler to reach undamaged splines. Might work for a while, but not for long. You need to consider the cause of the problem, not just the patch...

Many DPA pumps do indeed have a plate on the side where this one has a fitting. They also have a dedicated return line with a restrictor fitting of one sort or another on the pump body which this one does not. There needs to a path for fuel to escape the pump so case pressure is present but not...

I agree it doesn't look like you have any return lines open on the pump, and (possibly) none leading back to tank. That's a starting point. While timing could be suspect, after market replacement parts are even more so. Personally, it would take some major coercion to get me to purchase a new...

Later models do have electric shutoff, but they have a Bosch VE (more emissions friendly) pump than the earlier tractors. If you have one with the cable shut off you're much better off. That said, no one can tell you what's stopping your fuel flow. (though some will try) It's matter of trial...

Not all tractors were created equal. Simple question. Does your tractor turn off and on with the key switch or do you shut it off with a lever, rod, or cable? Maybe you can't find a shutoff solenoid because it doesn't have one.

Let's begin at the beginning. The hand primer pump has a glass bowl under it? That says you have a tier 1 tractor, and the injection pump is an inline model. Yes/no? You have a fuel problem? You've been fighting what you think is probably a fuel supply issue? Been through the tank and outlet...

If you're concerned about lemons, be aware ANYTHING 2015+ has yellow all over it, and can easily leave a sour taste in your mouth.

It seems to me I've seen similar pins before in other hydrostats I've had apart. I think they went (three each) in the center of the rotating groups. They fit (equally spaced) in the splines between the cylinder and the shaft. They butted up against the back side of a spherical bearing (which I...

Where did that information come from? Who supplies that kit?

Okay, I see the pressure listed. I still maintain an air check would be helpful. I too suspect an internal leak, but I'm not sure there's any easier way to confirm that. If the leak is indeed internal, it really doesn't matter just what it is, it has to come apart one way or the other. Yes a...

So you've established there is 30 PSI charge pressure (until you stroke the transmission) but do you know what it SHOULD be? That seems pretty low to me. Where does the charge pressure enter the transmission? Is it simply a line threaded onto a fitting in a port on the case somewhere? Can you...

What you're doing with the clutch has it's downsides, yes, but if you're also having noticeable issues while operating, you had better check your pedal adjustment before using it again. It may well be at the point where further damage is just around the corner. It MUST have some free play in the...

I guess you can. I don't do it that way, but it does work. I usually crack the easiest ones I can get to. It isn't usually necessary to crack them all, it just helps a little if you can.

Okay, that's not working for you. Try this. Put the manual away. Bleed the filter firsts then bleed at the thumbscrew (or bleed vent valve) on the injection pump as you have been. Crank until fuel looks solid at the bleed screw, tighten it down and leave it alone. Have you been loosening inject...

A simple tractor without all the electronics. This isn't it. The same tractor in the SL model would be far closer.

It's an SLE. The E has multiple meanings. Extensive Expensive Electronics. 8000 hours tells me it's been through some problems and changes in the electrical systems. They were no bargain to begin with, and probably won't be all original at this age. Then finding someone with any experience...

I have a similar background. I rebuild all sorts things too, just not injection pumps. That's best left to someone with proper test stand equipment.

Spend the $700. Watching videos isn't how you rebuild injection pumps.

Yours is by no means the first tractor to ever do this.

Seems to me if it were any sort of filter problem it would affect everything involved with that filter, and you would have noticed it much sooner. My guess is the problem is with the PTO solenoid valve itself. Some of the "moving parts" in there aren't moving when they should.

No offense intended, but sometimes people learn the hard way ($$$$). Small tractors (and I think a B series Kubota qualifies as small) don't like mowing tall stuff. They're too low to the ground and first knock over most of what they will eventually mow. This puts a lot fluff in the air which...

My money is on crap in the fuel tank. You ran it out of fuel. The tank was empty (in theory) when you poured fuel into it. That fuel spilling in stirred up whatever is on the bottom, which then found it's way to the outlet fitting. Now nothing (or very little) comes out of the tank so no fuel to...

It probably does slide in as easily as it slid out, but you probably need to slip a pipe or something over the shaft so you can counter balance the weight of the other end. It has to mate up with the collar on the inside (which you can't see while doing this) and match the splines as well. Can...

The parts diagram shows a splined coupler that connects the shaft you pulled out to the shaft that drives it. It looks like the lever to engage/disengage the PTO slides that coupler back and forth between those two shafts. Can you shine a light through the hole and see that coupler?

So much for Bundy Bear. Get yourself a proper manual. You need to take a few things apart down below before the shaft and control valves will come out the top.

I can't tell from the photos, and not knowing the B series line much at all, I don't know how long it should take to get that axle housing off, replace the $30 seal and put it all back. An $800 (plus fluid) quote indicates to me the shop is guessing at seven to eight hours involved. Without...

Check your PM inbox.

Well you learned a few things today. You learned that drive shafts have splined couplers. Most similar tractors do. You learned that yours has snap rings holding them in place. (Some have a hole through the coupler and a roll pin installed that does the same thing.) You learned the snap rings...

You might look to see if the clutch pedal has any free play. That's typically where most people start. (assuming of course, it has a clutch) What does the HST mean?

Agreed the cylinder should not leak. The hoses though, are a different matter. The male tips are prone to leak when left dangling like that. Some more than others, but none can be trusted. It always helps to tie them up so the tips are higher than the cylinder.

More likely the shaft seal is causing more problems than the filter. The filter actually does nothing in this system.

That doesn't apply at all. His friend has a 2020 model. After 2015 they are a totally different machine, made in a different country, to different standards. They have nothing in common with 2014 or older machines but the color.

I, for one, agree you need to do some experimenting to confirm the operation of the fuel shut off solenoid. Parts book shows what appears to be a three wire circuit. If that's what you have, one will be ground, one will be start and one hold. I would start right there. Figure out which is which...

I find that with a steel line with a style of fitting I can't (or choose not to) match, I can cut the line, make a fitting that's easy to work with and braze it onto the line. From that point on standard, easy to find fittings and/or hose ends can be used.

It requires a whole different valve. You can't just swap some parts.

Assuming you have tried "jumping" the starter signal terminal with straight battery voltage during one of these "no start" incidents and confirmed it to be a starter problem and not just low voltage from the signal circuit?

You did all this yourself? So now it doesn't work right, and the tractor system makes noise? I see (at least) two possibilities here. 1) You can try to explain what you have, what you did, how and where you hooked into the tractor system. Maybe post some detailed Photos of what all this...

I've seen that before. One solution is to remove the vent plugs from the wing cylinders, add another set of hoses, and use the hydraulics to lower the wings. The valve you're using to raise the wings no doubt has down pressure available too, you just aren't using it. That does limit the float...

I got the name of a dealer in New York somewhere, McFadden and Sons. They may be of some help but will need to wait until Monday to contact them. Anyone ever heard of them?

So here's another fine mess I've gotten myself into. Looking for information (and most likely some parts for) a Landini Powerfarm 95 tractor. 4WD, 4 X 3 mechanical shuttle transmission, open station, platform type tractor. About a 2006 or 2007 model we think. It currently has a shuttle problem...

Or less.

If you manage to make that work please post some photos and show us how you did it.

Actually that's pretty much worthless in this situation. It's merely the basic tractor layout, and shows the pump output going straight to the three point. It shows absolutely nothing in regard to all the valves, changes, and additions that you have. The one component labeled "outer connector...

So just what does that mean? It's all fixed now, shifts and moves in all speeds again?

I think all you've managed here is to get everyone else as confused as you are. Some of us out here may be familiar with your particular tractor model, some not so much. You're the only one looking at it, everyone else is just guessing at what you actually have. It might help some if we were all...

"A bit of trash in the system" won't cause it to not drive in two out of three ranges. (if indeed that was the case) The tech is blowing smoke at you. If you can feel all the detents, then the lever, linkage, and shift rails are all moving when you shift. Problem must be deeper than that.

That depends on the problem. The rockshaft is supplied with fluid from the power beyond port of the loader valve. At least that's the standard way of doing it. We can't see from out here just how yours is set up. If your three point won't raise there's a good chance it's not getting any fluid...

If one spool and it's related lines work, the return system from valve to tractor is working. As I see it you narrowed it down to a problem between the work ports on the one spool and the tilt cylinders. Not much there other than hoses, fittings and couplers. If you swapped all that out and...

I saw the point about switching hoses. What I suggested was actually removing and switching some of the couplers. You know that switching functions between valve spools makes a difference. Changing the couplers but keeping the hoses in the same order should tell you something.

I find it interesting that people come in with problems and/or questions concerning possible drive or transmission concerns, yet don't bother to mention what transmission version they have. The details DO make a difference.

I agree it "acts like there's a block". MOST likely one of the quick couplers in my opinion. Since they're most likely all the same, I would trade places with one pair at a time (between the tilt spool and the lift spool) an see what affect that has on the situation.

How big of a job? I couldn't say, as I've never been into it on that model. It looks like it would be under retainer (36) on the first diagram below, but how that comes off is a good question. It might well require first removing cover (23) on the second diagram. All in all it could be quite a...

I don't think you have anything to worry about with the wear sleeves, split or no split. I've done hundreds of cylinders, some have sleeves, some don't. It won't make a nickel's worth of difference one way or the other. As for the piston seal, I don't bother heating them unless it's freezing...

When it "doesn't work" -- What happens? Do the hydraulics load up and lug the engine down? Is there absolutely NO movement at all from the cylinders connected to that valve spool? No hose flex or sounds of any kind? Give us something to work with here.

This MAY be what you have. I can't say for sure without more details about your tractor and transmission options. I guess bearing (#12) could be a possible, but the problem could also be deeper than that. I wouldn't think it's anything do do with the clutch, but I can't hear what you hear...

The fact it moved in high range says the issue would probably be in the range portion of the transmission. No low or medium range, right? So what do you "feel" when shifting the range into low, neutral, medium, and high? Can you feel distinct positions where the detents hold in place? If so then...

I doubt a video here would be of much use. The sound you hear on the tractor has a location. On a speaker out here it's of little help. What was the leak involved?

I guess I'm lost here. If you had this noise to begin with, (whining sound with clutch pedal up) why would you suspect a throw out bearing? When the pedal is up the bearing should not be in contact with anything, therefor should make no noise at all. It only comes into play when the pedal is...

Again, a relief valve "squawk" is to be expected when a cylinder reaches the end of stroke and a valve is still active. No matter how many functions you have going on, as long as there is somewhere for oil to flow things should be quiet. When that ends and a valve is still active, something has...

Your description of your symptoms seems a bit vague to me, but then again sometimes I catch on a bit slow. It almost sounds like a simple relief valve squeal and you don't recognize it as such. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Does your tractor plumbing look anything like this? If yes, can you...

Not much history or detail here. Was the noise there BEFORE the split? What was the reason for the split? The bearing was the ONLY thing replaced?

I guess I'm just ignorant, but I don't see a "top photo" anywhere. I see three photos, all side by side. The first two are of a solenoid valve. I'm going out on a limb here and calling it a standard diverter valve. If that's the case, is it tied into the loader lift cylinder circuit? If yes...

Again with the terminology. I see two valves. I'd call one a joystick valve and the other a solenoid valve. I guess either one (or both) could be considered a remote valve.

Assuming again here, your problem valve is the joystick valve you're calling a remote valve? The hose leak is the hose with only straight fittings, no 90 degree elbows? If so, that looks like it should be the sump return line. There should be near zero pressure in that line. Where does that hose go?

I tend to agree it could be a classic case of misrouted hoses, but as we all know things aren't always what they seem. It might also help it you identified which port/hose/joint is "spewing out" the oil. I didn't see anything noticeable in the photos. Maybe someone else did.

I would certainly replace those discs. No question there. For the amount of effort and expense involved, why would you NOT replace the piston O rings? As for the retractor springs, I've been tempted myself to do that very thing, but have not. I'm curious to learn how that works out down the road.

I don't know what others have experienced, but I've installed a lot of bearings in all sorts of stuff over the years. In the last few of those years a good number of those bearings were made in China. I've yet to see one fail from what I would consider poor quality.

You haven't gotten any responses from those with this model tractor, and just guessing here, I suspect that's because it's not a common problem. It might help if you clarified which version Powerstar you have. Power shuttle? Mechanical shuttle? Single speed 540 PTO? 540E? There may be some...

Only 48 hours on it and already two oil leak concerns, one requiring a split? How long is the bumper to bumper warranty on that tractor?

And so we have another opinion here. Maybe someday we'll find out what the problem was.

If you look at the parts breakdown for this model you can see very quickly how the pump and lines are laid out. It will answer many of your questions and narrow down your speculations.

Why would it not affect steering if it's a common suction causing the problem. That theory holds no water in my book. I'm betting he has a tired pump section, probably due to some sort of issue way back in time. Like a remote valve or three point control stuck on and gone un noticed for a bit...

You're half way there. And you didn't need an ammeter.

As I see it from parts lists you have a two stack pump. One section for steering and one for hydraulics. I don't see a flow divider anywhere. The piping shown looks like it could be separated easily enough and a flow meter installed to end all the guesswork as to whether or not the pump section...

I have a similar load tester. Take the ground cable off the battery. Clamp the black lead of the tester onto the negative battery post. connect the red lead to the ground cable terminal. The meter should read zero. If you see any voltage reading it indicates a draw that will eventually run the...

I for one, am aware of your question in the first post. That said, I merely offered my suggestion to save you from taking half the cab apart to get to it. As for where is it? Chances are nobody out here knows for sure so you haven't gotten that answered yet. Maybe you will. The heater valve will...

That sounds pretty close as far as I can see. The sensor and related circuit are PROBABLY not your problem. What makes you think it might be? Does the battery light on the dash work? That's part of this as well. Is this a Lucas or Marelli alternator? Both were used, and the temp sensor wiring...

Add product support. Too much of this Korengineered stuff has a problem of spare parts disappearing after just a few years. It seems these companies combine, then separate again, and the models produced during those years are discontinued, forgotten, and more or less orphaned. If you happen to...

Again, it's your tractor, your money, your choice. If you wish to "keep it all factory' then by all means, go for it. Most in cab valves any more are all plastic and prone to failure sooner of later. If not the valve, the cables that operate them. I've installed dozens of this type valves on...

You're right, a suspect heater valve is indeed a well known culprit in certain A/C problems. It comes up more often than people would think. It's your choice of course, you can go looking for it in the cab, (whatever that takes) or do what I do. Look for a spot on one of the hoses where it's...

The above suggestions may apply, provided the tractor has live PTO. It may also have independent PTO which is a hydraulic clutch pack containing a brake. Problems with either the clutch or the brake can cause it to spin whenever the engine is running. Without knowing how your tractor is...

The tractor has a two stage/dual clutch. One portion of which drives the PTO. The PTO lever and related linkage has been changed a few times on those tractors so I can't give you any specifics but the principal is the same on all of them. The lever (when moved to the PTO on position) pushes the...

I've recently gotten hooked on You Tube old movies from the forties and early fifties. We haven't had cable or satellite for years now, just internet streaming. Works well enough for us. My problem with the movies is the audio. It's often very poor quality and my hearing is so bad now I pretty...

Not all tractors are created equal. With some the there is a PTO brake that works only when the engine is running. On some it's spring applied and only releases when the PTO is engaged with the engine running. Some have no brake at all. There is no standard that applies to all tractors.

In my circles it's usually called a drag link.

It might help some if you mentioned whether the tractor is old enough that it has an injection pump or not. Common sense fuel systems are easier to diagnose than common rail. Also specify if the problem is getting the starter to turn the engine or getting the engine to run. Possibilities could...

Much more common problem than you would think. The added relay is usually the answer.

If you haven't been behind the cluster yet you might just find a nice rodent surprise there. VERY common nesting site. They love wires and wire insulation you know.

As tight as your impact wrench will get it.

So much for the "easy fix". Now you need to hunt. There is (or at least there once was) an inline fuse holder behind the cluster. Two actually, one for the gauges and ignition related circuits and one for lights. Old style glass fuses. You could start there if you haven't been there yet.

Don't be surprised if you see it happen again some day. Only next time you'll be ready. If/when it does, don't run it so long waiting for it to prime on its own. Running any gear pumps dry is hard on the internals. Things get hot in there fast and pump life (and performance) can be reduced. The...

I have an old Weatherhead T 450 crimper I've had for many years. I never got the (optional) hand pump they came with, but instead I have an air over hydraulic pump that operates it just fine, and plenty fast enough for me. I doubt I would part with it as long as I'm still "in the game" and need...

Sure looks like a good candidate for a start relay kit. This has been covered extensively on many forums. It works! This is a bit over priced in my opinion, but the concept is what counts. You can DIY the same thing with parts house components...

Revisit the wiring at the starter. The positive battery cable attaches to the solenoid stud. There is also a smaller wire on that same stud that connects to the key switch and the charging system. Are you SURE that wire got put back on? If you missed it, that will give you the condition you...

Many tractor manufacturers go the "cheap route" and let the injection pump pull fuel from the tank through the filter(s) without supplying an actual lift pump. Yes, it does work, but sooner or later problems can/will develop because of it. For one thing, it's hard to keep air out of the system...

Most electric pumps run continuously to some degree. They may not all be the same as far as the sound they produce, but will only build to their predetermined pressure and then bypass. I doubt your new pump has a problem.

It's not uncommon for the pump to need a little help picking up prime, particularly so if the fluid is drained and the system left dry for extended periods. Removing the outlet lines and pouring some oil into the ports can help in that regard. Those fittings on the pump can indeed be a fight. I...

It's "normal" for cylinders that live out doors, have the business end pointing up most of the time, and probably have a weak or failed wiper seal. Just clean the rust and crud up the best you can before putting it back together. It will be fine.

No, the chrome rod stays in place. You can remove item 5 from item 6 and the rod without removing the tie rod end from the steering knuckle if you choose. You WILL need to jack the tire off the ground or you will fight the threads both coming off and going back on. I've never replaced that...

The chrome rods are part of the steering cylinder. If you wish to remove the tie rod ends I suggest you jack up that side until the tire is off the ground. That will provide the necessary movement.

Getting the cylinder unit out of the tractor is a project in itself. Then getting it apart is another challenge. Seals are available, both from Kubota or hydraulic supply houses. The glands are held in with an internal wire ring on each end of the barrel. Seems the preferred method of removing...

It's not really a bolt, but a bolt could be used. It's a plug, Massey number could be 731364M1 with a 731364M1 washer. .It is a 1/2" S.A.E. thread, so you could use a bolt if you can find one fully threaded and cut it short enough to fit. Any proper size copper or aluminum sealing washer should...

Not exactly the same thing is it? Some tractors use a standard automotive type slow blow fuse in that spot but it's much heavier than a simple blade fuse. They can be rated for as high as 80 or more amps. That type will support the starter energize circuit.

That's a cover. That hole being covered is where the factory power steering pump would mount. (if it had one)

You can buy new cylinders for not much more than seal kits from Mahindra. You might even find one with larger rods that won't bens so easily...

As you can see, much discussion on the subject, but in the end, no resolution. Sometimes (often much later on) the individual will come back and explain a bit about what the problem was. The ten minutes spent doing that can help others down the road.

It's hard to imagine what life must have been like working on things before videos.

You probably solved the problem, you just don't know where/what it was. Could have been any of the things you touched, but it wasn't the injectors.

Not much there but some O rings. What "supply junction" is that...

If it's a three cylinder Perkins engine the 135 steering pump is on the right side of the engine down low. It looks like this. The fill/level plug is on the can. If it's not there, then you "assisted power steering' is your two strong arms.

Maybe what you're getting is the "new and improved" version and that's all they make now?

The impression I'm getting by our communications he's probably right. The problem is internal and the transmission will need to come out.

The clutch is in the tractor so the port to test will be there. I don't know about any button on the valve. As far as I know, you need 12 volts down there to energize the solenoid coil. There's nobody down there to push any buttons.

I think you're finally catching on here. That fuse had no business being there from the start. Whoever put it there didn't know what he was doing.

Well if that's the case, I don't have much more to offer that's homeowner friendly. If the PTO works then the shaft through the transmission must be turning, Other than an issue with the range transmission behind it, I suspect you need to get into the transmission itself.

No, we're not. Bypassing the switch to solenoid wire still relies on the feed wire with the fuse. Bypassing everything and going from battery to solenoid does NOT blow the fuse because it's not using the fuse.

I'm not sure how many charge pressure problems might come up? I'm just thinking of easy things to check. The diagram below shows a suction screen (item 4) I would probably look at to see what that shows. The diagram shows what appears to be all of the hydraulic pipes, lines, and such related to...

Then try blowing air into the port with the plug out and see what happens. Might have to energize the coil or maybe even remove the line entirely and blow into the fitting on the tractor.

Before anything else I would start by verifying there is charge pressure. Simplest way to do that would be remove the hydrostat filter and bump the starter and see if any oil comes out. I'm not an expert on that particular system nor do I have a book on it but most hydrostat tractors filter the...

I believe we're seeing this differently. My impression is the fuse and ignition switch work as expected UNTIL the switch goes to "start". That's when the fuse blows. The solenoid and starter work fine as long as it's NOT supplied through the fuse. Maybe I got it wrong.

Did you have the entire PTO valve off or just the solenoid portion? With the complete valve off you should be able to air check the clutch pack through one of the exposed ports. The parts list shows a steel line under the valve adapter casting but I can't tell if that's oil supply to the valve...

I can't answer that based on what I see from here, but since you have no movement, (possibly) no high pressure, maybe little or no charge pressure, you could be hearing some dry parts in the rotating groups.

"Make it work without the solenoid". Good luck with that. I can imagine a few different ways of using switch combinations mounted on the cable mounts or using the lever that don't involve a button you need to constantly push. Something that will close the circuit for you when you move the lever...

I know what he's talking about, but I'm wondering how he determined that. If it's not a clutch related problem or something external related to the pedal linkage and/or the shaft going into the hydrostat, about the only (simple) explanation would be lack of charge pressure. Beyond that, I'd be...

Maybe you're not aware of it, but there is a dry clutch ahead of that hydrostat. A problem there can give you the condition you described. Does the PTO stop when you try to move the tractor? That might tell you something...

If it's in the feed circuit, it's still in the start circuit. Any power coming OUT of the switch (no matter where it goes) has to come INTO the switch first. That's the wrong place for the fuse. And it's NOT just 10 amps to supply the solenoid. It's a great deal more. It only takes a second to...

As I see it, the solenoid valve opens to trigger the sensing line. The loader valve is plumbed closed center and must be tied into the same supply as the factory remote valves. Very interesting package. I don't think I've ever seen one quite like it. I don't see where you can use that valve...

I'm only half way/sort of following this, but in the original post I thought I saw where someone "added a fuse to the ignition switch feed from the starter solenoid". Am I reading this correctly? There is a fuse between battery and ignition switch that's not factory? IF that's the case, my first...

Are you here looking/hoping for a simple quick fix (as in this or that wire fell off) or are you willing to get your hands dirty and get off into it?

The parking brake is mostly inside the tractor. The handle under the seat has a rod going down to a lever. Pulling up on the handle moves the lever which rotates a shaft going into the transmission. There is an adjustment nut on the bottom of the rod, that can be reached from below. It's between...

Is it worth a few hundred dollars? Only you can decide that. Anyone attempted this repair? Probably a few thousand people. Its not an uncommon occurrence at all. there are two seals in each final drive on most of these 4WD front axles (most of which are fairly similar in design) One on the axle...

Connector or no connector, it's still a Kubota tech "whatever it takes" issue. What else is left? You've covered all the simple bases with no real results. It's one of the joys of owning computer controlled equipment.

I would say try bleeding that soft side. That might make difference. As far as keeping the pedals locked, I can't see where that will help anything other than make you feel better. Only the tighter side will be actually doing the braking.

Only that it's probably time to get a Kubota computer tech involved. Whatever that takes. The issue is probably out of reach for most of us common folk.

If you look at the fluid reservoir you see the lines to the pedal cylinders come right out of the very bottom of the tank. It needs to be near totally empty before any air should get into that line. If the fluid level was above the minimum line at the time then it should have been safe to...