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If you have a fireplace or barbecue that you have ash in, it is the best for a mess like this. The ash is almost the same color as concrete and it is so dry that it sucks up the oil, just cover all the stains with 1/8-1/4" layer of ash and let it sit for a couple of hours, then sweep it up. I...

Maybe only the one axle had brakes?

That's right, and most shafts that look square probably aren't, they may be 1" by 1 1/8", so that they cannot be assembled out-of-phase. If somebody modified a shaft or yoke to make it work, that could be part of the vibration problem and if you need to replace the shaft or yoke, most good...

A lot of drive lines look square but aren't, check the measurements of the shaft. They are made that way so that they can't be assembled out-of-phase. Possibly yours had a damaged yoke at one time and somebody put a replacement yoke on it out-of-phase. Hard to do, but with a good grinder and...

Stand off a couple hundred feet from the base of the tree with a pencil. Hold the pencil in your hand and extend your arm fully. Put your thumb on the pencil at the base, with the pencil point at the very top of the tree with the pencil exactly vertical. Then turn slightly away from the tree and...

I know, I only weld aluminum occasionally and when I bought the liner for aluminum, I ordered an extra one, so I could just leave the teflon liner in for my regular welding. I won't put the other liner in until I need to weld aluminum again, then I will switch them when I switch metals, the...

I have run aluminum in my Lincoln MIG welder. It has a Tweco gun and I ordered a Teflon Liner from my supplier and it worked well. If I remember right, I think I also changed my contact tip to 0.040" to get a little more stiffness. If you don't have a lot to do or only use it for Aluminum...

I don't know about your particular machine, but most tractors use the transmission/differential housing as a hydraulic reservoir, and on those machines there is almost always a screen on the suction line to the pump. If you are operating in a dirty environment, or the machine is older, or...

Looks like a segment from a Lilliston rolling cultivator, used for cultivation and weed removal of row crops in California. There are righthand and lefthand units, can't see this good enough to tell which.

Get a TYM with a Kukje engine in it and you will be happy! Easy to work on, no computer, no DEF, and way cheaper than Kubota or John Deere!

A third option would be to line the pond. It would probably cost less than a well.

Disassemble the drive shaft by taking the cross out of the yoke, then just use a bearing puller hooked onto the yoke and pull against the PTO shaft. It should come off easier than it went on.

I bought a Century 2635 about 20 years ago which became equivalent to a Branson 3625R and can still buy any part I need. As a result, I recently bought a TYM/Branson 4820R as part of a California environmental program to replace older diesel engines. I looked at John Deere and Kubota, but for...

This is most likely caused by an internally leaking valve in the hydrostatic steering circuit. Leakage is caused by age or continuously holding the steering wheel against the mechanical stop in the steering axle. Replacing the valve may help or turning the steering wheel in the opposite...

The solenoid is just an electrically operated switch, so usually, it either operates or doesn't. However, there could be a problem with the contacts inside the solenoid, so it seems to me that the easiest way to identify if the solenoid is the problem by restricting current flow to the starter...

Block heaters are probably better than those in the hoses. If the one in the hose is in the top hose, it probably will not help at all, the thermostat will not open and the heat is radiated out by the radiator, they should be installed in the lower hose so that the heated water can get into the...

I would too! V the crack out carefully, get everything clean, weld with E 7018, may take multiple passes, then I would run a couple of beads at least 8-10 inches long perpendicular to the former crack to make the weld-affect zone (the weakest part of the weld) longer. You could also reinforce...

Hire someone with a big excavator that has a thumb attachment, that can clean and stack all the slash quickly! Dry and burn what you don't process, then buy a tractor for farming!

Call a local house mover, they can safely jack this building up, repair the spreaded rim joists/corners, and set it back down correctly (I wouldn't put pier blocks under the middle of the floor because there is more weight on the edges of the building and later you might end up with a bowed up...

I agree with aircommuter, but I would place a culvert across the road after excavating the mud and before putting in dry fill material to compact. That fill material can have larger chunks of broken concrete and rocks if necessary and place enough to get the road base up above the level it is...

Grind the weld a little to make a flat spot, then use a tek screw with neoprene washer - screw it into the leak directly (you could add some epoxy or JB weld to the screw before seating it). It will be sealed immediately and when the level gets below it or the tank is empty, you can fix it...