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I would look this thread over as the originator got it working. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc45da-ignition-switch.195255/

My FiL had to different disc seeder he had built for farming to plant wheat and soybeans. He also raised rice a few years and I think he used them to plant rice too. The first he had a seed box from a grain drill mounted on a disc about 20’ wide. It had a ground drive system from the disc...

I just put new belt on it. I guess it may be worth dropping out and changing the oil and maybe sanding the mating surfaces.

I don’t know for sure but I mow in low range with the electric shifter in high which maxes out at 5.95 mph and I try to cut with the hydro pedal all the way down. I am trying to to match my lawnmower height settings of 1.75. We typically cut this area with the lawnmower beyond that I don’t...

Well we bought a Husqvarna YTH24K54 back 2013 and mow more than two acres in SC so mowing season is long and it has 623 hours on it. It has only been used for mowing no towing or implement work period. It has started not being able to go up hills after it has been mowing for say 20 to 30...

Here is a picture of yard mowing with the Y knives. I put my last two new Y knives on, so it won’t be too long before I need to switch them if I keep losing them.

You might get a hydraulic hose made a bit cheaper at a hydraulic shop, but most of them keep Monday to Friday operations and 8:00 - 5:00 hours. So if you need to have a hose made after hours or weekend you stuck with who’s open. If you need a hose with 90 degree swivel fittings, specific...

And have get up and go than I do!!!

Don’t know of any compact tractors that have a suspension. That said big MFD farm tractors can be purchased with a front suspension now and likely for around the past ten years or so.

I have used three different flail mowers: 1. An old 74” cut Ford 917 with duck foot blades (2010 to 2019) and I paid a $100.00 for it. 2. Alamo SHD96 = 96” cut with heavy Y blades (2020-2021) 3. A later model Ford 917 again with a 74” cut and it has the same heavy Y blades as the SHD96 has...

No power steering is an issue for most people these days.

Thanks

I don’t see part # 161 on the picture you posted. Can you post where said spring # 161 goes?

One thing I have a question about is how the RPM of the blades compares to the blade speed of engine driven mowers? I think high blade tip speed equals cut quality.

I have a PAS 225 and I would say it’s not enough power especially when I use the blower on it.

IRCC I called Baldwin Filters about that filter that’s also on my TC45DA and they had a cross reference for it. I’ll look for the number of the filter this evening.

I’m guessing you have an air leak in your fuel supply system between the pickup in the tank and the fuel injection pump. The leak allows the fuel to drain back into the tank.

After using compressed air to clear the line supplying fuel from the tank to the filter mine ran fine. However, this past winter I pulled the tank off and cleaned it. If you take the tank out and pull the tank exit fitting out and it’s grommet it makes cleaning it easier. Also I replaced the...

I also carry a IR temperature gun in my truck and check my hubs regularly.

I also used my IR temperature gun on the u-joints. The back one which was running the straightest was about 5 degrees cooler than the middle u-joint at 114 degrees which had the most amount angle with the mower shifted.

I tried mowing with my drawbar shifted to the left. It shifts the mower to the left 4” 5” and I noticed my PTO shield rubbed the yoke on shaft yoke so it can’t move farther than that. The left tire track shifted to the right of the deck by about 4”. It didn’t make a real difference on the...

Making sure you have access to a good quality dealer for your equipment brand is important.

Around here there are at least two or more shops within 20 miles that will do it. The closest one will NOT do anything with more than a 24” diameter wheel and I have 17.5” tires on 24” wheels on my TC. If I have to replace them on my IH 424 with 13.6 x 28 I will have to go to the other shop.

The cab mount point was just an example of something outside of the PTO system and linkage that might cause the issue. Most newer Farming sized tractors use electric over hydraulic systems. They decrease cab penetrations, helps HVAC l, thus make it quieter and as less ways for dust to enter.

I want to get a TTPS and that GM system seems nicer than the Ram version, but not enough to switch trucks.

My Woods C114 has at least 11 grease zerks (recounted today it’s 13) and it gets greased each time I use it. My 917 flail has six and gets every major use. Tractor more than a few and gets greased about twice a year except for the SSQA that needs it four to six times a year. If I had a big...

Sorry I wasn’t clear what I suggested was to separate the two linkage systems and then test just the tractor part. Since in your first post you said the linkage wouldn’t move. Testing in the manner I mentioned would tell you if it is a problem in either side cab linkage or internal to the...

I have a TC45DA that I pull a 9.5’ rotary cutter since 2022. I have not had any PTO issues. Mine has to be shutdown to rotate the PTO shaft for alignment with implements. I would recommend unhooking the linkage between the tractor and the cab and see if it will shift then.

If you add baking soda to it it’s gritty like fast orange hand cleaner. ;)

What kind of oil do you use in your grease gun for your mill?

The line on the top of the fuel filter is allowing air to be sucked in to the filter bowl see the below thread for details. I capped mine off and no issues since then. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/new-holland-tc45d-wont-start-fuel-supply-issue.393685/page-2#post-6930092

I’m using the on mine 7k.

I’ve had good luck with Goodyear trailer tires first the marathon and now the endurance.

I had either my PTO or gear range selector engaged when mine wouldn’t start. 🥴

Cool However, battery cables have been going bad basically since the year after they were invented due to corrosion.

I just realized shifting to the left will be easier than I thought. I forgot that my center drawbar can be moved left or right until I scrolling through some TC45 photos I had saved see attachment. I will try that next mowing. Hopefully the u-joints won’t scream too much.

I would bet that the online picture has been generated or touched up to smooth it out.

Here are some more pictures and the last one has measurements written on it with black marker. - the tire path from center of mower/ PTO shaft 18” out to 34” - streak is in the tire track and out to the center of that spindle In the last picture the blade rotation at the front of the mower...

I run a Wood C114 pull type cutter that has a 9.5’ cutting width with my New Holland TC45DA that has about 39 PTO HP. If the grass is really tall it causes me to slowdown to less than 3.5 MPH.

I found that to be true with the valve on my TC45DA. The only rebuild able parts were the detents and the joystick connections to the spools.

He mentioned lifting the implements higher which would be kinda okay. However, he also said lifting logs to move them and if that involves the snatch block then I agree no.

You haven’t been in a new tractor on a farm lately have you they are really nice. 😊 Even in the late nineties my father in law had lots of trouble getting someone to operate the one old IC 1466 left on his place without a cab.

I am trying to understand mounting the winch that high for recovery purposes. It seems mounted that high could tip the tractor backwards unless an implement is on the 3pt. Note the lifting the implement higher may be useful at times that the OP mentioned. Does the winch have any tendency to...

I believe it can happen if say one takes a gallon jug and tips it into the fill point. However, I don’t do that and I do pull the dipstick out like the service bulletin says to do.

Sorry it was not clear. From center of the PTO stub shaft on my tractor it measured 18” to inside of the left tire lug and then from the PTO center it’s 34” to the outside of the tire lug (lugs are the parts of a R1 tire that grip and press the grass down). Also it is 37” from the center line...

I haven’t hooked it up yet, but had time to measure it and the mower. From center of PTO it is 18” to the inside tread lug/bar of the left rear tire. Attached are some pictures of the mower with black tick marks from center of gearbox to 18”, 34” and the center of the outside spindle on that side.

Sorry hadn’t had time to hook it back up and measure it. It is a 114” wide mower 57” to center. On my TC45DA the left tire measured from the center of the drawbar is 18” to inside and 34” roughly to the outside edge. The streak seems be from almost the outside edge of the left tire to say 30”...

I was thinking about that very thing making a temporary extension to shift the hitch position to the left. The term you used is back sweeping which I think means the blade is moving forward (ex., as the tractor is mowing) which is the same direction that the tires push the grass down. Which...

My tires are not adjustable per the ownership’s manual, so the baffle first?

We used to do that too, but I don’t miss manual locking hubs at all. Having to pull them apart is grease them with a really lightweight grease and if you forgot to turn in it was almost always below zero and you were trying to turn them to lock them in. I’ve had five 4wd since my late...

Woods makes three types of blades for the C114 straight, twisted and high fin. I have the high fin (lift) blades. I have thought about adding more to the fin to increase lift. Would you recommend adding the baffle first or increasing the blade fin/wing?

Thanks I’m going to need a bit of translation. What does these mean: 1. “just into the wing region axially” mean? 2. “pre-heat 5150”

I really love my TC45DA the only thing wrong with it is it needs another 10 more HP. Remember they are all good when running, they all breakdown and all of them suck when broken down.

I love my pull behind mower it doesn’t bounce around like a three point does with a cutting height of 6” to 8”, so the ride is better. I do wish it was a batwing so the deck followed the terrain better. Backing into fence corners it not as easy and lifting a 9.5’ mower would be difficult for my...

It’s 3 spindles (114” cut) and the stripe is from the left tire to the far left side.

The TC series is affected by pouring oil into the engine to fast see this thread for the information and service bulletins on it. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc40da-oil-change-nightmare.188532/

Here’s a picture of the factory driveline on a C114. I can turn so tight the rear tractor tires hit the tongue and the driveline is fine. There are three u-joints in the driveline. Here’s a link to one with the cover removed. What did I just buy?

To the original poster that’s some great fabrication work. I have a Woods C114-1 that is a bigger version of the D80 Woods. It streaks on the left side. I am thinking about adding steel to smooth the air flow out and hopefully increase the lift. Here are some picture of it. Do you think just...

Got a link and part number for those pads?

I have not had an issue but I do pour slowly about a quart poured over say a minute.

I wish that the online truck configuration tools would show what both the payload and towing capabilities based on the options selected. However, I also think they should maintain the configuration capacities by vin for at least 20 years so they can be looked up later. Ram use to have one that...

With it having a backhoe on it I doubt 18’ or even 20’ is long enough with a pull behind trailer. It may work with a gooseneck trailer. My trailer is 18’ long (16’ flat and 2’ dovetail). The loaded setup is 6,250 pounds and the trailer is about +2,500 pounds. That 4520 with a backhoe is both...

The transmission, rear axle and hydraulic system are all one sump and use the same hydraulic fluid. The front axle if 4wd and power steering system are both separate systems.

I think what is in your favor is you are working your truck pulling heavy loads often rather than just getting two bags of chips at the grocery store. These diesel’s need to work enough to get fully warm to avoid issues and you do that and that’s how they’re supposed to be run.

I think those are the same as the New Holland TC series tractors and they are know to get corrosion inside the battery cables. Cleaning the clamps does NOT fix the internal corrosion issue only replacing the cables does. If you look on the New Holland sub forums you will see multiple threads...

I wonder how hard it would be to make hydraulic driven brush like system to pull the grass up after the tires but before the mower?

Yes the TC45DA is available I just bought one this year. When I replaced it I asked about the repair kit but it is the detent parts. If the valve spool(s) or body is worn it’s replacement valve time.

Yes it did meaning the same valve had the issue with both sets of cylinders so the valve is the common denominator and is the faulty part. Also the fault now is happening on the other set of cylinders.

If one has two circuits #1 and 2 and number one is on valve number one and two is on valve two. If you move the lines from one to valve two and the issue goes with the lines the valve is the same and so it is the issue. Think of it this way valve one is the boom lift circuit and valve two is...

I’ve got no input. However, what are the pipe plugs on the trailering arms for the tires used for?

Prince said there’s nothing rebuildable in my valve.

I left out switching the lines (in pairs) is a great way to know if the valve is the issue. If the problems follows the lines it’s the valve. If it doesn’t then it another issue.

I went through a similar situation but with lowering the loader boom. It wouldn’t lower except for when I put it in the float position. When I call the valve manufacturer Prince they said that the couplers could be the problem. However, I swapped the lines to lift the boom with the bucket till...

I like that welding cart.

Not drainage issues I wonder if something like 2” foam board on the brick would be good enough insulation? We have new ductwork that’s insulated. Do I leave the ductwork insulated? Should I remove the floor insulation? We also have a heat pump water heater in our crawl space that removes...

I placed these underneath all of our raised bed’s and I have not had any freeze issues in the other Carolina. I forgot to add the link. Auto drain valve https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-irrigation-Auto-Drain-Valve/999930392 Our lines (water, phone and electrical) are just a few inches under...

Wonder if they ran it out of diesel and used the starter to get it going without bleeding the air out?

Thanks I didn’t know them made those.

We’re considering encapsulation of our crawl space, but I have some questions. What does one do with the foundation vent holes? If one doesn’t insulate the the foundation walls how does it save on HVAC costs?

I called Flailmaster first to get the skids and they said they no longer have them. I don’t doubt the demand for them is low likely very low.

My tractor’s (no quite 20 years old) loader hoses are very weathered to the point the steel braiding is showing. I have been replacing them as they blow. It’s a pain as they’re are so expensive. I really should just bite the bullet and replace the rest at the same time.

Looks like my Husqvarna 54” deck belt routing.

Can’t force them. I would limit a circular saw to 1/8 sheet material due the length of the cuts. For something like 1.5” strap I would likely do 1/4” thick.

I wanted a AGM battery an Walmart has a good price on them. I looked this up in my printed manual (Europe version) and it lists group 47 however, the PDF I have lists the 24F (both manuals are for the DA with the vertical headlights). I thought maybe it was just a quirk of the European manual...

Do you have existing battery operated tools if so I would get one the uses them as a first choice. We have a RIDGID 18 volt trimmer for the above reasoning. While I don’t doubt it is NOT the best one it works good.

The reason they put those cables back to the drawbar is people pull the front axles off of tractors when they’re stuck. Pulling it up by the front axle on to a trailer even with flat tires should not be an issue as it’s being pulled not being yanked on.

Whatever you do I would use a pole saw to cut it so you are as far as possible from the trunk.

FYI 917 (aka the Bush Hog FH174 or FH188 also) the skid shoes that go on either side are no longer available. Here is a drawing of them. They come from the factory with 5/16” plow bolts. However I couldn’t get any, so I used a 3/8” flat head cap screw/bolt. I used 1.5”x.25 strap steel 36”...

FYI 917 (Bush Hog FH174 or FH188 also) the skid shoes that go on either side are no longer available. Here is a drawing of them. They come from the factory with 5/16” plow bolts. However I couldn’t get any, so I used a 3/8” flat head cap screw/bolt. I used 1.5”x.25 strap steel 36” long to...

Love the front hitch!! 👍 Do you have a front PTO too?

Nice and you have a great place and view. Is that a NH 1069 bale wagon?

My Ford 917 will do it but the true 2” chunks likely won’t be shredded.

I agree with all of this except the last statement. Cummins 903 is alive and well as every Bradley and Paliden has them. I am sure there are others too.

https://agrishieldllc.com/product/hydraulic-sickle-bar-cutter/

Thanks Do the reds come on as a brake light when you push the brakes?

Red and amber light strips (it looks like the amber ones are no longer available): https://a.co/d/hfp0kRc The front is two amber vs the rear a red and amber to mimic the factory lights. Work light(4 total two facing rear/front): https://a.co/d/7WZAmix The flood lights work good but the...

Bump to see if I can get a response

I sharpened the bottom of the duck foot knives as that is the factory sharpened surface.

Mine are that way too. I’ve wondered if they had say 6” or so of gravel below them if they would be better?

I’m using the M-108381 blades on my 917, but have used the duck foot ones and both work great. I think the M-108381 are more durable if you’re chopping up brush. I resharpen them on the mower (use jackstands) with a small angle grinder (4” or 4.5”). Just don’t get them hot enough to show...

My ROPS lights are in bad condition and I am replacing them with LED lighting. I labeled all the wires prior to cutting the factory lights off. My question though is do the red lights (on bottom and only facing to the rear) do they flash when the hazards are turned on?

Since most decks are belt driven the blades likely won’t in the same position after a couple minutes.

The FH series flail mowers are based on the latest version of the Ford 917 flail. Any bladed or knife that works on the 917 will work on it too and even the knives for the JD 25a. I have used both y knives and the duck foot knives and they both work great. Right now I have some forged y...

It should be easy since your Super C has bar axles, so if you move your current wheels in enough (may have switch the dish inwards) and add another set of wheels as duals. Just make sure the two tires don’t rub together. Note your wheel weights should be mounted on the inside wheel.

Thanks for explaining it.

Question what do you mean by turn direction adhered to?

I really like that hose holder in the 1st picture!! 😀

Hadn’t thought of using a post pounder like that. Thanks

Thanks for posting your finds and fix!

If you have eliminated the easy maintenance things like filters etc then start with other things. Try decreasing the amount you have pressed your hydro pedal down as you go up the hill which increases power but decreases speed. Questions: Does your fuel filter remain full when it is bogging...

I just re-read my Woods C114 owner’s manual and I think I have the front of my C114 to low (or rear to high). It says the maximum rake front to back is 1.75”.

I’m thinking about changing mine so what do you set it to? Is 1”, 2” or say 3” equal to slight?

I think the angle of the two sides of the disc makes a big difference in how hard it is to pull. In your linked video the disc is NOT angled much. If it was set to cut more with the outside ends of the disc much closer to the tractor (more of a V shape) it would be much harder to pull...

Ram uses an aluminum hood.

We had ditchers that were similar but the blades that cleaned the sediment out were much longer see attached picture. That one has two disc blades (great for not getting caught on roots) and is much heavier than needed for cleaning ditches.

I don’t have a Landpride flail rather I have a Ford 917. And I have swapped between duck foot and Y type knives with no issues. As long as each station/mounting point has a knife or pair of knives (based on knife type) I don’t see how there would be a balance issue.

We maybe some will come back. Did it wait until fall to germinate?

It is cereal rye so it’s no oh well. Thanks

I planted rye last fall in our pastures and it is headed out and drying. Once the seed drops will it lay dormant until fall and reseed itself?

Just block the cylinders in the up position and then unhook the hoses from the loader and connect your flail mower hoses. Just make sure the blocks keep the cylinders up don’t get knocked off and letting the loader drop while mowing.

That’s a firebreak plow.

Check your battery cables and clean them and your grounds first. The battery cables are known to have internal corrosion issues

Two more pictures

Here’s mine with some oak. We had five trees taken down because they were too close to the house three we knew were rotting/hollow one weren’t certain of but it was rotting inside, but the biggest one +32” was NOT rotting in the base, but there was some slight rotting in a crotch. These are...

When I use the Y blades I don’t typically sharpen them but I will reverse them. I have been using the heavy duty forged Y blades and they last good for me and they are reversible. That said if they are damaged I replace them. I have a set of the duck foot knives and in the past I have...

If you’re looking at ditch bank flails it’s more about the weight of the tractor. When a ditch bank flail is offset it has a bunch of leverage due to the offset.

That is the power steering system. The main hydraulic system fill port and dipstick is on the rear of the tractor.

I was just wondering the reason as have a Stihl one on my MS361. How long do compression release valves last?

What makes the Husky version better?

Thanks I was given a stump grinder and sharpening the teeth was on my list of things to do.

Muhammad got in the burger ad.

There are a few ways. Take a grinder/dremel tool with a cutting wheel and cut parallel to the shaft part way through that inner bearing race. Then take a cold chisel and hammer drive it into that cut and it will split bearing race and then it will pull off easily. If you can get a...

Here’s another one

Got a link for one of these drains?

Typically they are push connections but may have a small spring clamp. And yes they can be done without removing the injectors.

Are you sub-soiling new ground or previous cropped / worked ground?

You might look up higher on your tractor and see if the oil is running down there. Under the seat there are some fittings that can leak and make it look like it is from down lower. It’s much easier and less dollars to fix. I remember seeing a thread about it here.

Well didn’t get any answers, but yes you can install the first valve without removing the right rear tire. That dangling wire tie points right at the valve.

Serviced my TC45DA cleaned out the fuel tank and replaced the loader valve as it quit lowering the bucket. To do: Build a new light setup for the ROPs Add rear hydraulic valve Installation of switches in permanent location

Seems like it’s not operational per his post, so that’s likely on the high side.

Messicks is a good option if you don’t have a local dealer.

I would guess that fence had a snow drift or piled snow left on it. If was cows I think they would have popped those boards off as the posts are leaning from the inside.

I don’t think it’s currently happening. I purchased the tractor in 2022. I think a water separator like on a Racor type is a good thing since now I am using a 55 gal drum for diesel. My drum has a Racor filter on it that filters the fuel before it goes into my equipment tanks. I have always...

I bought my trailer new in 2003 I am just now needing to replace the deck boards and not even all of them must be replaced. I did treat the deck once, but it has never been parked inside. That said I keep it where it is in the sun constantly so it dries out regularly and I think that really...

I am thinking about adding the pre fuel filter under the tank on the right side of the tractor and attach it to the ROPs. Will having this new filter below the main filter be an issue? I would think the lift pump would still be able to draw fuel up to the factory filter.

I am going to disassemble the old one and see if I can see what went wrong.

Can this link in the New Holland Operating forum be fixed? https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=nhown&Number=89244&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

Has anyone tried to install the NH rear remote valve without removing the right rear tire?

I put the new grommet in and line with a valve in the line real close to the outlet. The valve is because I am thinking about adding a pre filter to keep the big junk out of the factory filter. Another big plus is it will have a water separator bowl and drain.

Well swapped in the new valve and the loader works like it’s supposed to.

I didn’t know about that .36” might save me someday. ;) And thanks for the quote.

I found out the valve is a Prince valve called and I talked to them. They said nothing in the valve is rebuildable other than the detents and the joystick connections. They stated off with it being a coupler issue but I had already swapped them out. Then a hose issue which when I swapped...

I thought it was more than 102”???

I was surprised by how little junk/sludge seemed to come out since the supply line to the filter had plugged up before.

What’s missing?

Another thought is to check with a Mahindra dealer as IH sold the design of this series to them and they build it. They started with the Mahindra 350/450.

Try take the damaged one to a hydraulic store/shop and see if they can match it. The price will still suck though.

Well I pulled my fuel level sensor and it tested at 250 and 33 ohms, so it seems like the float sensor is not bad.

I ordered a new valve.

Well I removed the valve this morning and checked #9 mentioned above. I turned a very slight amount light less than a 1/32 of a turn, so I don’t think that’s the problem. I’m thinking I need to get a new valve unless someone has another idea.

I see it most mornings starting around 5:00am.

Is this grommet just push into place? I’m guessing lube it with oil/grease if it is just pushed into the tank.

Once I got mine out on my TC45DA I used this to replace that valve. It threaded right in it also works great and it’s easy to drain my antifreeze. EZ-201(NPT 3/4-14) EZ Oil Drain... Amazon.com

We just have 2 peach trees, 1 apple tree and a pear tree. Could I just put the neam oil in a sprayer to apply it to our trees? I did see an add on to a leaf blower on Amazon. I wonder how it would work? https://a.co/d/9jVLtFV

That’s what I was thinking about doing that too.

Lube it up then take a chunk of say 1.5” pvc and use it and a hammer to tap it into place.

What type of valve is needed my a splitter do auto return of the ram hands free?

Looks like the inside one is for the lifting and lowering of the three point hitch. The outer one is the draft control for the three point hitch to regulate depth of a ground engaging implement like a moldboard plow. Someone else may have a better description of draft control than I do.

How long is it too please.

Nice setup! How much does that trailer weigh and what are it’s specifications?

I like your suggestion. Background my joystick was working loose when I first got the tractor. I finally got it stopped by adding a locknut to the bottom of the shaft. So it may have vibrated #9 loose and be worth checking. It will probably require removing the whole valve to get to #2 due...

It kinda kept doing on that day (more than a year ago), but it didn’t keep doing it.

Yes it would lift and curl before this happened. I forgot a detail that happened a year or two ago. I was lifting a load and it would drop slightly before lifting.

My service manual has the loader valve in the hydraulic section. The attached pictures show the relevant flow diagrams for the positions not working and the parts breakdown. It looks like in the first two flow diagrams the oil flow is not flowing properly as it is only lowering in the float...

I just got a used three point log splitter and I wonder how slow it will be. I’ve thought about a PTO driven pump and tank which would allow me to use my older IH tractor without remotes. This would also free up my loader tractor to move logs.

One other thing is they make a primer to put on concrete when applying a second layer to promote adhesion.

That’s the thing the valve’s movement and detents feel just like they always have felt. I am leaning toward just replacing it with a new one.

Well swapping out both (both sides of each too) the couplers on circuit that raises and lowers the loader arms did NOT fix it. It still only lowers when in the float position and still creeps up in the neutral (no movement position) at the same rate as when this started happening. So I guess...

Self leveling concrete works, but I have NO experience with it outside only with interior applications. We have used it on three different projects with once being in my garage. Self leveling concrete is not a true concrete, so not sure how it would work outside. I does work though, but lifts...

I did have to blow my fuel line back towards the tank as it was not flowing enough to keep the fuel filter full of fuel when mowing with my 9.5’ rotary cutter. Which is the reason to consider adding another fuel filter.

I wonder if twisting it would make it prone to leaking?

It looks like the fuel tank outlet on my TC45DA is a grommet with a barbed 5/16” fitting pushed into it. See attached pictures (#20 & 21). Has anyone tried turning that barbed fitting to point to another location? I am wanting to add a pre-filter to keep my factory filter from getting so...

What size are the WG24 teeth?

You didn’t I just wasn’t clear and didn’t have a lot of time to find the NH version. I’m glad I looked at TSC online as the local store had only 1/2” couplers and only one set.

I found them on Tractor Supply and they are Pioneer brand and they are a good price.

Sorry I was more referring to the size I’m having a hard time finding the male end for New Holland version (COUPLING 3/8" NPTF) Part# 9846343. I will look at the sites you mentioned to see what they have.

Does this look like the right size of couplers? My loader AG couplers look smaller than my 1/2” AG couplers for my remote valve. https://a.co/d/frxzJEz I need two pair anyway for a grapple.

No worries I’m just slow at getting it 🤪🤓

I guess they are just tight and being behind the loader mount mast only lessons have a bit of leverage. I’m thinking I may have to take the right floor board off and then take the line to the vice for removing the couplers.

If it’s inside the lid then the tilt cylinders are at maximum extension and that is a cylinder’s weakest point.

Are the couplers locktighted on as I can’t budge either the one at all.

I like those too. However, I wish each tooth had them so they could be used for raking backwards. By having the teeth at the back of the grapple the bucket tilt cylinders would be closed/retracted and in their strongest position. Thus keeping one from bending the cylinder shafts.

Should I look at getting both the male and female versions of the coupler or just the female side?

I loosened and reseated each of the four couplers, but it didn’t change the issue. I then swapped the lift and tilt lines (all four) and the symptoms switched in sync with the line swap. In others words the tilt position lifted the loader and lowered it without issue. The lift position which...

I’m going to try lubrication but the joystick moves freely just like it always has since I’ve owned it.

I’m thinking my first try is to disconnect and reconnect the loader hydraulic couplers securely. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/tc-29-da-hydraulic-problem.323869/

I think it was shuttering slightly in the lower position. Hadn’t noticed the hoses when trying, but will check them out. Also, in the neutral position (no movement position) the loader has started raising slowly like 1/8” to 1/4” per minute. I yanked on the couplers and neither pair felt...

It locks into the float position see first picture. Here are some pictures of the joystick connection and it looks normal.

I think so, but will have to check to be certain. My joystick has worked loose so it rotates, but it doesn’t affect its performance though.

If I remember correctly it is directly attached. The float position is in front of the lower portion, so you have to go through the lower position to get the joystick to the float position.