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Battery cables need to more than just tight to function. That's not the only criteria. Unless you hit something you're not aware of at the time, it's probably unrelated. Just a glitch somewhere that was going to happen sooner or later anyway.

The manuals won't cover that. Look for Any additional hoses and couplers on the back that aren't factory. If you can't figure it out post some photos of that, where they connect on the tractor, etc. Someone will help you sort it out.

If you have no electrics, start there. Battery cables or main wiring/fusible link. That sort of thing. Not safety switches.

How do you know that's what it is, and how many times has it gotten out before?

The parts list shows it right on top of the rear axle housing. Sometimes they're covered up with hydraulic lines, valves, etc and you have to feel around for it. Not uncommon for one side to be somewhat accessible, and the other nearly impossible.

Power beyond would come from the diverter block on the right side. Square block looking thing with three steel lines attached, one coming directly from the hydraulic pump. You would tap in there by removing the plugs and adding fittings. What "third function" are you considering? A spool valve...

Sounds more like a clutch issue than a "won't go into gear" problem. Maybe you're a little short on pedal free play?

It seems your machine has power steering as well as the hydraulic deck lift? If so, I have no doubt that what you're asking about can be done. Whether you can "do it yourself", I can't say. That depends on your knowledge of hydraulics, your tools, materials, and skill level. It would be an...

Just opinion here, but the Perkins 236 is hands down a better engine than the gas AC motor. Unless there's major problems with the 175, I'd seriously try to go that way.

So you're saying you think the leak is the gasket between the two housings of the hydrosatat unit? If so, the unit needs to come out of the tractor and be disassembled down to said gasket. Probably not a homeowner project, but then again some homeowners are better at this sort of stuff than others.

They don't move easily. It may take some effort to get it loose and get an end out of the groove, but it should come out. Before I put anything back in I polish the inside of the barrel around the groove with a die grinder and one of these...

So unplug the solenoid. Replace the fuse and try it again. If the the fuse blows without the solenoid connected then the solenoid is not the problem. Look elsewhere.

Looks like a standard wire ring to me. I think you need to pick that out first before attempting to pull the rest out,

I'm not sure how much of that would apply in this case, because I believe he's trying to do this without removing the footplate, If so, access is going to be quite limited and I'm not surprised he's having so much trouble. Having replaced a number of them without near this much problem, I can't...

The system relief valve is in the diverter block that's now supplying the loader valve. That relief is in effect no matter what happens downstream, and has a path to sump when it opens. Pump output flow goes there first, so it's in play regardless of what you add anywhere else on the tractor...

Have you ever replaced the brake boots on one of these tractors? Reading that list of directions leads me to believe you've never seen one.

Your sheet metal screw trick isn't new. Truth be told, my old F350 has one in the bottom of one of the fuel tanks. I found a rust related pinhole one day (found it the hard way) and the only practical "temporary" solution was a sheet metal screw and some gas tank epoxy. Liberally applied. Must...

Bear in mind that pulling the line off won't really drain the tank. The outlet fitting is slightly above the bottom. A layer of water and crud will remain below that. Look for a drain plug. The tank SHOULD have one. You will have better luck rinsing with that out than with just the hose off...

I've seen the metal inside the fuel cap eaten away. Fuel gauge senders nearly rusted out completely. Fuel outlet fittings as well. All that can contribute to rusty buildup as you're finding it. I would certainly work on emptying the tank, removing anything I could from the bottom and rinsing it...

Also I suggest you remove the inlet banjo fitting from the lift pump when you get time. Pull the fitting out of the hose and clean both the fitting and the holes through the bolt itself. That's always a gathering point for debris when the system has this much trash in it.

That's a lot of crud. I don't often see that much rusty buildup coming from a plastic tank. Most often I see it on tractors with steel tanks that are in bad shape. Don't pull the injectors. That won't help, and certainly taking them apart and "cleaning" them will just make things worse. Were...

What do I think? I think air gets into a system because the pump pulls it in. That's most always because of an issue between the oil reservoir and the pump. Whether caused by a screen, a joint, a filter, a hose or tube, or some other connection. It's hard to get air into a system from a loose...

Hey, I don't see anything offensive. Hell, we all get things wrong often enough while attempting to get things right. That's nothing new, granted. I base my opinions on facts as presented. Far too often here we don't get all the facts, just bits and pieces of them. Then people offer comments...

You're truly dedicated to that theory, aren't you?

Best guess would be to plan on splitting the tractor for a clutch repair. After sitting all that time It's probably stuck too tight to break it loose by the usual techniques. If there is an access from top, side or bottom that allows you to see a portion of the clutch disc itself between the...

That's the control valve for the power steering cylinder. Better research parts availability before getting too carried away.

Update. I just got an E mail stating my order has finally been completed and shipped. I guess someone is still alive in there after all. Given the fact i've received virtually no response to repeated attempts to contact and confirm the status, it may be a while before I decide to place another...

If you've never used the three point, then what did you do with the tractor? What other hydraulic functions does that pump supply that have been used thus far? As for air in the system. I've seen all sorts of filter brands used with that style pump and the brand has never been an issue. The...

There are a number of places to get a hose made "in a pinch". That's not my intent here. I order fittings, adapters, and hose ends in quantity. Placing a large enough order to negate the cost (per item) of freight. This has been a good source to that end. At least it was until now.

I've been dealing with them since sometime in 2016. Last order was placed 9 / 28. All came through without a problem. Different world today.

So it's not just me. Too bad, they were a good source and fit my needs well. I guess I too will move on to other providers.

Have you considered that your fuel tank is mounted down low. You're relying on a ten year old electric fuel pump to pull fuel from it then push it up into and through the filter. You don't see a possibility of a problem there? Fuel pumps are inexpensive and easy to find. If it were my project I...

I considered that, with Labor Day weekend in the middle of this. Three day holiday weekends always disrupt shipping, that's a fact, and no denying it. This isn't just about shipping. It's about response period. Many businesses stop operations for vacations, holidays, etc, but most will reflect...

Has anyone placed an order with these people recently? I've ordered lots of fittings, hose ends, etc from them over the past few years. Have gotten excellent service (including customer service) without issue. Until now. It's like they've closed the doors and refuse to admit it. I placed an...

Excuse the ignorance on my part, but what's so complicated about this pump that requires all that?

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No brake lines or dif lock involved. Your tractor should be very similar to many other Asian compacts. Dry, mechanical brakes. The brake units will be just forward of the rear axles. Look under the tractor and you will see a rod connected to a short lever on the outer brake housing. Disconnect...

It might help if you explained a bit about what the problem is, what "the book" tells you to do about it, and why you think it's not working. Also helpful to know which version of your tractor model you have. Kind of hard to tell from out here just what's going on with so little to go on.

Not trying to add insult to injury, but what have you done so far in attempt to bleed the system out since all this took place? Have you confirmed power to, and operation of the fuel stop solenoid? Just generic opening questions.

I doubt there are any diagrams out there that will help, but you really don't need one. There aren't any true "tie in" points on that tractor. Basically, you remove the hydraulic pipe from the pump to the lift housing and redirect oil flow through your loader valve and back into the lift system...

Actually, it does indicate something is "not making contact". Just where to look would depend more on what other details are in play other than it "won't start". When this happens, do any of the headlights work? When you turn the key on do any gauges and warning lights come on? Does ANYTHING...

Does you manual show any photos of where said tabs are located?

Who knows? Are you just curious or are you searching for solutions to a problem of your own?

I got it off today. I don't see any tabs that need to be depressed. It is indeed just a friction fit between a couple of plastic stubs on the radiator tank that fit into two receptacles (for lack of a better word) on the bottom of the surge tank. Those are both on the opposite end from the stub...

I tend to disagree on that. I think it's more often done when hydraulic problems occur and nothing else seems to help.

I'm still curious about the problem that was recently "fixed' just prior to this incident. What conditions/symptoms were experienced and what repairs constituted the "fix"? We haven'r heard that part yet.

Sliding off is a possibility, yes, but it doesn't make sense that it's held in place by nothing more than friction. There must be more than that or sooner or later it would start to move on its own. I tried some "gentle persuasion" in all directs with no effect. There's nothing to pry against...

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/72706/referrer/search/pgId/737000716 I'm wondering if anyone has had to remove one of these plastic pressure/surge tanks from the radiator before? I monkeyed around with one today for nearly an hour and couldn't figure out how it's...

The symptoms indicated some sort of blockage. That unit doesn't show up in the standard tractor parts lists for the hydraulic piping. It might be an O.E.M. part, but it's an option, not standard equipment. It is however, a logical "first place to look" since it's located between the pump and...

So what is this "third function block"? Is that something added on? Parts list shows nothing like that. From your last post I think you found your problem.

It tells me you have a valve stuck somewhere, and oil flow is going nowhere. Just building pressure in the system (maybe going over relief) causing the heat, with oil flow not getting to the loader valve, remotes and lift system. Seems odd because the loader valve is usually first in line for...

Assuming the three point is dead as well? As I see it, there is a two stack pump on the right side of the tractor driven off gears in the transmission. One single inlet and two outlets. Since one section seems to be working that mostly rules out a suction problem. Typically with that sort of...

I doubt it's a cable type joystick, but somehow I suspect the joystick IS what you're having trouble with. Right/wrong? Explain the problem a little, someone will help you out.

So what part of the tractor's hydraulics supply the loader valve? I would assume the tractor has an auxiliary hydraulic pump, a remote valve or two with steel lines leading out and back into the side cover where the PTO control lever is mounted? Yes/no? Might be hard to see in there what with...

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What's a 1680?

To start with, some photos of the loader valve, how/where it's mounted would go along way toward answering your questions. If the valve is power beyond capable (this can be determined from out here with proper photos) then the cost will not be all that much. Just some creative plumbing, hoses...

Look for another steering valve, Right move. There are no user friendly seals in there that will affect performance. Not in that style valve. The only seals involved are there to prevent external leaks. They have no bearing on directing oil flow to/from internal ports and passages. Anyone...

Big difference there. Remote valve stuck on can not only warm the oil up, it can fry a hydraulic pump. You most likely took some of the life away from it. Don't be surprised if you have more pump related problems down the road. Interested to see what you come up with on the steering valve.

An SE tractor would be mechanical shuttle, yes? Your tractor has a dual section hydraulic pump. One for the high pressure system and one for steering and transmission related clutch packs. Running down the road with PTO engaged shouldn't adversely affect anything. That wasn't the cause of...

That's certainly worth looking at. Is it a LIKELY problem? I can't say because I don't know what's involved in that operation on your particular model. If it was done with O.E.M. parts and instructions, then probably not, but who knows? I'm wondering when did the first pump fail, and how many...

Well, I maintain that something is causing a great deal of pressure in the system. Possibly all of the time considering the results. Open center gear pumps are designed for intermittent high pressure loads along with brief periods of greatly reduced pressure to allow the pump's internals to cool...

That's the start relay. If it clicks when the key is turned to START then I'd say the key switch and safety switches are working. Relay contacts are bad or the wire from the relay to the solenoid spade has a problem. OR the solenoid is bad. The jumper wire connecting the spade to battery...

There will obviously be some differences between gear drive and hydrostat tractors, possibly a few other options involved as well. It might help if you passed on a few of those details. Assuming (if you're moving dirt) it probably has a loader as well? Tractor came with loader installed? Any...

The spade on the starter solenoid is always hard to access. I have a number of "home made" jumper wires (short lengths of wire with crimp on terminals on one end and just 1/2" of wire stripped on the other end) Male, female spades, different size ring terminals, etc. I take one with a female...

I'm not sure what you're asking. Those pumps all have a bigger port on the suction side than on the pressure side. I'm quite sure the one on your tractor does as well.

I can't speak to that possibility other than to say I doubt it. As far as I know, the tach has nothing to do with any DC circuits, but I can't confirm that.

You can replace the alternator as a "maybe", but if it were me I would first check the output from "terminal P" and see what you get. Most electronic tachs on other New Holland tractors operate from AC voltage from the alternator. Very low voltage at that, like 8 or 9 volts. 5 volts is not...

Okay, I'm going to double up on this post because both Mahindra and TYM are involved. I'm hoping there might be someone out there with some (any) experience working on the power shuttle system on this tractor. We'll see how that works out.

Okay, I'm going to double up on this post because both Mahindra and TYM are involved. I'm hoping there might be someone with some (any) experience working on the power shuttle system on this tractor. We'll see how that works out.

Well please forgive me for being stupid, but as I see it there should be no connection to ground with any of the wires to and from the buttons. I would assume all of that is totally isolated and insulated from ground. One of the three wires would be a common connection to one side of each...

Perhaps you could explain how that will help?

You're SURE the shaft, the front coupler, and the front axle pinion shaft all turn together and there's no problem with splines on either end of the front coupler?

Sounds like you need more information than I can supply. I would say the clutch pedal switches may need attention and/or adjustments. Probably the shuttle packs need calibration. That's just a guess based on experience with that TYPE of system, not necessarily yours. That would explain why they...

I probably can't help you much with this issue, but it might help if you provide a few details about your tractor. Like what transmission option it has. Dry clutch, power shuttle, cab, no cab, etc. It looks like dry clutch cab tractors have a hydraulic clutch pedal system. As in a master...

Before you get too excited about adding a valve, you need to determine how much oil flow (gallons per minute) the machine will require to operate. Most tractors similar to yours don't have much in that regard. In fact yours is listed at under 3 GPM. Probably not going to work.

You might get better results if you mentioned what transmission your tractor has. How would anyone out here know where to start?

You can remove that plastic cover after removing a few bolts. Then you can see what's going on with the cables below. I've seen a few problems with that package. Most have been fasteners coming loose and were easily resolved.

The easiest way I know of is to eliminate the start circuit entirely to begin with. Dig your way down to the starter, remove whatever plastic covers "Safety Sam" put there to prevent you from doing this. Find the start signal wire and pull it off the spade terminal on the starter. Attach a...

Belt adjusting is pretty much as you stated. The alternator might require loosening the bottom bolt as well before the pry bar portion. Squealing compressor belt usually won't stop as time goes on. (It might stop if/when the clutch cycles off) The alternator load decreases slightly as the...

It's probably the alternator belt making the noise. Load on the alternator will be greatest when first started up. The compressor belt won't have any strain until you switch the A/C on. If the A/C is on, try switching it off before starting. If the belts feel loose before starting, tighten them...

Check the system pressures. If they aren't excessively low, then chances are good it's just a bad switch, and not low on charge. In fact if the pressures are normal, and no one has had to add freon for a good while, then it's probably safe to run it "as is" until you get the part, time, and...

Mahindra listing for the 7010 cab shows the drier part number as 16608303501. Does not show the switch as a separate item or number, so it probably comes with the drier.

An over running clutch isn't even a band aid against his list of other complaints. I think he made a wise decision to take the loss and get rid of it. There are a number of Workmaster 75 tractors in this area, and most have been pretty good tractors. However, I'm not aware of any being the...

You might get some usable answers if you post some pictures of what you have questions about. Ford offered the 3930 various engine versions over the course of production. The earlier tractors had the dual element C.A.V. filter base and at some point changed to a single element spin on filter...

If you have questions about your filter I suggest you post some photos of it. You will most certainly save yourself some grief if you know something about it before messing with it. Just a note. Anyone who tells you to replace a fuel filter, don't bleed anything, then start the engine, is not...

No, not really. And no, you're not the first person to make that complaint. Joystick packages are all too often very lightweight structures for what they often endure. It's a common failure regardless of brand or model. Sometimes the damaged parts can be welded or reproduced if they can't be...

If you don't have that terminal then something has been modified at some point in time. As far as I know, all forty series tractors, and many others as well had that temp sensor system. I'm betting yours did too. Both Lucas and Marelli alternators Ford used had the provision for it.

You don't want to convert to a one wire. Fix what you have. The problem could be as simple as the battery temp sensor circuit. There is a spade terminal on the regulator that receives voltage from the temp sensor mounted under the battery tray. If that signal isn't present the alternator will...

Assuming you have something like this...

If it is a/the relief valve, maybe you should consider putting a pressure gauge into the system to monitor what pressure is being developed while all this is going on. It will require some fittings and/or adapters on your part, but it's the logical starting point for any hydraulic trouble...

You might get some more accurate replies if you explain a little about what you're hoping/planning to do. The "port" you asked about is in the square block under the right side of the tractor. The one where the three lines leading to/from the loader valve connect.

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Has someone been changing, adding, removing, or otherwise modifying any hydraulic hoses or fittings recently? I get the impression it has a loader. what all (hydraulically speaking) currently works and what doesn't?

Sounds familiar.

It's not a thermistor you're looking for. It's a temp sensor usually found threaded into the thermostat housing. It has a short pigtail with two wires and a harness disconnect. Locate that, unplug it, replace the fuse and try starting it again. If that works, don't reconnect the harness. In...

If that's the case, then yes, I think you had both bearings in backwards. The wider, hardened surfaces on each of the sleeves should contact the levers. The shaft condition is a judgement call. The spline wear is noticeable, yes, but in my opinion not necessarily a "must do" repair. It does...

I see five photos. The first one appears to be the back side of one of your throw out bearings, probably the smaller, main clutch bearing (size is deceiving with no frame of reference ). The second one looks to be the front side (goes against pressure plate levers) of (probably) the larger...

I've replaced a number of clutches in TN series tractors, along with the respective release bearings. Depending on the supplier, the main clutch release bearing may or may not come with a new contact sleeve already installed that rides against the pressure plate levers. Those supplied by New...

Misprint? I would say so. I was looking at a PDF of the Kioti service manual on the same tractor in Kioti orange. It clearly shows two plugs on the diagram for the clutch housing, a large one under the gear section and what appears to be another at the very front. The smaller one looks like it...

The plug in the clutch housing (which SHOULD be dry, by the way) is right up front close the the point where the housing mates with the engine backing plate. It appears in service manual to be quite a bit smaller than the magnetic drain plug shown for the transmission case. That one looks to be...

Most people would simply remove the obstructing valve body from the lift housing before attempting to raise the housing. Putting it back with that bolt dangling will be nearly impossible, what with trying to get the standpipe back into place and the vertical links in place for the control valve...

The solenoid may well have some problems, but leaking fuel out or air in will not be one of them. It doesn't actually connect to any fuel passages. It merely pushes against a part of the pump that runs in engine oil. If it leaks anything it would be motor oil, and not much of that. Also, it has...

Clutch pedal too loose? Not your moist common clutch related problem. Usually as a clutch wears free play diminishes and pedal becomes tighter over time. If yours it too loose maybe you should investigate why. You should have something like this. The threaded clevis at the bottom should be...

The screws are there to retain the drum, not to remove it. And I agree, they are not all that necessary. Once the drum and wheel have been "married" to the axle for few years the drum won't fall off when you remove the tire and wheel.

You can't rule out a clutch problem. Any free play on the pedal?

Well I feel better today. I think I'm finally separated from the ball and chain. I went through the motions again, the neutral light is on, both brake pedal switches are working, PTO is off. Still the module refuses to let the starter operate. I'm done chasing circuits. The creative option was...

A little more studying last night and I made a couple more discoveries. The range shift sensor (that's what they call it) isn't directly tied into the start circuit at all. I finally found it on the diagram off in a corner near the cruise control/preheat unit. It operates mainly through that...

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The diverter is not causing the lift arm problem you're having. That's coming from the pump's control valve, and/or related internal linkage. I have some ideas on how you can narrow that down. I can explain in more detail if you're interested.

So much for what I think. Things are pretty much all assembled now, except for the plastic panels around the steering column. I have (at least) one more issue to resolve under there. The dreaded "no start" condition. As in "no signal to the starter solenoid". This was there the first time I had...

It's not complicated. There is a tin cover over the transmission. Remove four bolts and the cover. This will expose the rod and clevis that needs to be adjusted. Remove the pin, unscrew the clevis a couple turns at a time until you achieve an inch or so of free play on the pedal. If that solves...

The dealer will be happy to sell you a new one, no doubt. Will that solve the problem? Possibly, but who knows? Depending on the price of that little jewel you might want to consider adding another power source to the wire going to the starter. Something like a simple push button supplying...

I'm not familiar with the Iseki built tractors. From what I see in the parts lists I doubt anything would be available out there that would "bolt on" and do what you want. However, I do believe what you would like to have probably can be done if you're willing to do a little "creative...

Does it hurt brake linings?

Replace it with "something"? No not exactly. The title of the thing is friction washer, not lubed washer. Tightening the spring is not a solution, merely a band aid. Back off the nut holding the spring and all that together. Back it off far enough you can lift the handle, see, feel, and move the...

15 looks good.

I never said to power the white wire full time. I said "jump" it with 12 volts for a second with the key on. Anything longer than that will cause problems. I couldn't say how they engineered the system to work. Every manufacturer has a different plan when it comes to the "safety" circuits...

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/56782/referrer/navigation/pgId/2462029 Yes, assuming you have a dry clutch transmission.

Most likely powdered rust.

I would think there is a reservoir under the hood somewhere. There will be a line from the bottom of it leading to one section of the hydraulic pump.

I would treat it as a fuel problem first, even if there's plenty in the tank. Start by bleeding it out. At the filter first, then at the lower bleed screw on the injection pump. Maybe it's a simple fuel starvation issue, and you can clear it out and get back to work. If there's no air anywhere...

Go back to other forum.

The third wire should connect to the starting circuit somehow. It should get power when the starter is engaged. I have no idea how they did that on your model, but I suspect that if you can "jump" 12 volts to that third wire for a second with the key on, the solenoid will work just fine for you...

Look for one of these. It will be on the main starter post along with the positive battery cable. Everything switch or dash related passes through it. If/when it fails the result is what you described. https://www.newhollandrochester.com/shop/sba385603370/

More good news today. I had it running for a little while with good results. It shifts without issue, has forward, neutral, and reverse. No leaks (not yet anyway) that I noticed. I didn't run it long and couldn't do much without steering, but the transmission seems to be okay so far, The floor...

I don't know about how widespread an issue this is, but unless this guy is just blowing smoke, ours may not be the only one. Either way, whether it's repairable or not, I can think of more fun things to do than to try it again.

I don't know why there would be oil "around the injectors" unless it's getting past the valve cover gasket...

Okay, we're back. The owner has made the decision to spring for the $6K+ new replacement transmission. The local Bobcat dealer came through, produced the unit, and took his money. That was sometime last week I believe, and he has been on my case ever since. Gently, but consistently. So today I...

Having never been near a Toolcat I don't feel qualified to comment on the machine or what it might be capable of physically or hydraulically. Basic hydraulics is another matter. My fourth grade math tells me the difference between 26 GPM and 27.9 is minimal at that stage. No doubt the spec is...

You might want to check crankshaft end play. If that seems excessive, maybe you should take a look at the thrust bearings?

A bad starter won't affect dash warning lights and gauges. It's hard to tell from here, but my money is a a wire that came off the starter along with the battery cable, got pushed around while the removal/installation process was going on, then didn't get put back on. Look for that wire.

What I've done is to pull the wire out (unless it's rusted solid) the cut the cable shell as short as possible. Slip a box end wrench over the cable and onto the retaining nut. Grip, hold, and/or turn the flange on the outside with vise grips. Sometimes they can be difficult.

The difference is not cab or no cab, it's the production years. CNH screwed up a number of things on the later year models. The earlier ones were far simpler to operate and maintain. I know of a few 75's in this area, and none are new enough to have any of the features that are complained about...

Those are pretty good prices in my opinion.

I wouldn't know about that. I bought my bottles a couple years before we moved here from Idaho. Had probably only exchanged the oxygen once, the others were still half full or so. I took the first empty one to TSC one day and they traded me a full one the same size for the exchange price...

I have two bottles for my torch and one argon mix for my small wire feed. I bought one of each many years ago. I refill all of them at TSC now, and have no problems. They charged a one time certification fee or some such, on each of them (because they weren't painted their shade of blue). It...

When you cracked the boom lift cylinder line releasing the trapped fluid the boom won't drop? Is there something under it other than the bucket? Is the bucket on the ground? Sorry, but you're not explaining your situation very well.

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There's a way to disable most anything. Particularly so on tractors old enough they don't have computers with over riding control over everything. If your experimenting leads you to conclude the issue is indeed electrical (I'm not convinced of that yet) you can actually bypass all of that with...

Well to me that sounds more mechanical than electrical. The tractor is old enough that it shouldn't have much other than a seat switch and the typical operator aggravation module that affect it electrically anyway. When it does this, can you recall whether or not you hear the fuel shut off...

Not that I know the answer (because I don't) but when you say it "stalls." Can you describe what that means to you? The engine suddenly quits like you turned off the key? Or it slowly winds down and dies out more like it's running short of fuel? The first symptom would indicate it's probably...

Wheel bearings in the 35 are really no different from cars or anything else from that era. Your front wheel wobble COULD be related to wheel bearings, but it could also be tie rod ends, even as far back as steering gearbox play. It would depend on just what you mean by "wobble". The easiest...

I have no first hand experience here either, but it looks like the whole shifter/shaft package comes off as a unit and comes apart from there. Looks like a replaceable sleeve on the shaft provides the wear surface for the seal should that be needed...

What I often find in that situation is the flats on the shaft are so short it requires a very thin wrench to fit behind the ball joint. When I find one that's really stubborn this is what I do. First, jack it up and remove the tire so I have room to work. I take two pipe wrenches, put one on...

Just being **** here, but I'm ASSUMING you know that you don't put a tee into any pressure in or pressure out lines. The only place you can use a tee is on the sump return (or tank) lines.

I don't think I've ever seen a valve (Euro or otherwise) that came with a built in power beyond that was plugged. Yes, most of them are power beyond CAPABLE, and often come with a plug in that port. In order to use it in power beyond configuration you don't just remove the plug, you need to...

You might get more (and better) responses if you mentioned what transmission your tractor has. Anyone (most people anyway) reading your post would need to know that before commenting.

Is there not an idler sprocket a little farther up that's not included in your photo? Most arrangements like that have one. Loosen up an adjustment bolt and the idler will move away from the chain and allow more movement.

There could be other reasons why it's not charging, not just a defective alternator. Suppose you take it off, get it tested, and they tell you there's nothing wrong with it? Then what? Why not do a little trouble shooting before you get that far? Personally, I know very little about JCB...

It's hydrostatic steering. No turnbuckle on a 265.

Simple. Run a short hose from the power beyond sleeve to the inlet port of valve number 2. A power beyond sleeve in valve 2 and a hose from there back into the block under the seat. Then you tee the sump return lines together and go back into the tractor. One think that hasn't been mentioned...

Yes, that is the valve block I use for this type of thing. It has all three ports, plus it has ORB ports, not pipe thread. (I literally hate pipe thread ports) No, the power beyond port on the valve (with the proper sleeve) sends oil back into the lift system. The sump return port on the...

Personally, when I deal with this issue I cut the wires off the sensor so some fool doesn't come along, hook it back up and start the problem all over again.

I don't think it matters much how it works internally. About harm? I personally know of several tractors, some have had the system disconnected for years and have so far not reported any difference in starting or operation. If you're afraid of it, then by all means, replace the sensor and keep...

I would be even more curious to know how many people have actually experienced any starting problems with that sensor disconnected. It's my belief the system has no effect on cold starting, and was never intended to in the first place.

The reasons might vary a little depending on what type steering your tractor has. Does it have two cylinders, one on each side, or one single cylinder in the center behind the grill?

The design of the unit is such that toe in will not really be affected. The tie rod and steering cylinder extensions have notches that correspond with the axle bolt spaces. once you get them moving (that's going to be the fun part) you will see what I mean. Axle assemblies move one bolt hole...

That does make sense. My mistake on misreading your first post. I got the impression the loader was already back on and hooked up/ And mo, the loader valve is not properly plumbed. It may work the way it is now, but that doesn't make it right. It's obviously power beyond capable, it's even...

Just guessing here, but I know those systems pretty well, and the aluminum adapter plate probably has three (not four) lines connecting it to the loader valve. IF (and I say if) the loader valve was properly configured with a power beyond sleeve on the pressure out port, and if the loader works...

You probably need a new cable.

Appears to be? You would need to engage the 4WD, get ONE front tire off the ground, and try to turn it by hand. If it won't turn, that's what you want. If it does turn revisit the drive shaft and couplers. If indeed that's all secure, then you have bigger problems.

"Heard of - but not seen"? I'm not aware of any lift pistons being attached to the con rod. Any tractors I've had apart the rod is connected to the rock shaft arm but free on the other end. I'm not aware of any where manually raising the lift arms will cause the rod to fall out of place and get...

I don't know what removing the head again will accomplish. I think you can just remove the fittings etc from the head and relieve any hydraulic pressure in the cylinder. Then go back to forcing the arms up and down. I think it will take more than just a few cycles to make much headway. I ran...

Well if the supply line currently comes from a solenoid valve assembly, and supplies no fluid with solenoids off, then what happens with a solenoid on? The steel line with the banjo fitting in the other photo is probably the supply to the three point. I can't really tell from the photo, but...

I disagree. The problem is between bushings (item 2 and item 3) and shaft item 4. The arm, rod, and piston are merely going along for the ride. The piston seized in the cylinder bore is a possible, yes, but I'm betting on the shaft.

Somehow I doubt the problem is trapped hydraulic fluid holding the lift arms up. I find most often in cases such as this the cross shaft is stuck. Sometimes stuck so solidly it can be a major project to get it moving again. In MOST cases, there is a little "free play" in the lift arm travel when...

Well, I can't see the the valve or the coupler being the problem here. You apparently have no flow/pressure getting to the valve. If the hose that you're connecting to is the supply for your backhoe, then in my estimation that should be carrying everything the pump puts out. If suddenly it has...

Is that the case now, or how it was before you started making these last changes?

The coupler issue is one thing. A possible problem, yes. But you need to find out if the pump is actually producing flow. As I understand things right now, I'm not yet convinced you don't have a problem in that area.

I can I understand that part, but my main concern is this. With engine running and no flow out the coupler(s) then what happened to pump output? Is there another path for oil flow somewhere? A relief valve somewhere, or is the pump simply deadheaded? Has something in that train come off the rails?

From what I see there, if no flow is getting through, then with the engine running where is that oil going? Is that "backhoe supply" hose in the photo the main hydraulic pump output? I guess I don't fully understand your overall circuitry here. As for the couplers, the hose end side of things...

Start at the front drive line coupler that connects the drive shaft to the front axle pinion shaft. There should be a shield around it you have to collapse to get to it.

I'm assuming there is zero flow through this system or the hose I assume is the return hose would never stay in that funnel. That said, (again) assuming the lowest hose pictured, the one with the protective sack around it, is your supply from the tractor. As in power beyond pressure? And...

I think a ten amp is what they used.

No surprise on the toggle switch. The fuel shut off solenoid wiring is a bit tricky, not just a single wire from the key switch like the cluster. Lots of those tractors have been "toggle switched" because those working on them couldn't figure out how it's supposed to work. That's another matter...

I'm not sure why you feel the need to worry about compression stroke, but that's your choice. If you plan to "work on the pump" to the degree that timing marks are in play, you need to take the cover off that's in front of the pump drive gear anyway, so just turn the motor over until the pump...

To all it may concern. I gave up following this thread about ten posts back. I thought that it would have faded out by now, but apparently not. For my part, I think I get the concept now, and am ready to move on. If anyone else cares to contribute here for the benefit of others equally as...

Both those manuals cover basically the same models. It could be the 714 manual predates the 716. The later printing may have information on tractors built during the last couple years of production. The 714 probably does cover your 2005 model, but so will the 716.

It seems I mentioned you should look at that area back at the beginning of all this.

Sounds to me like you need to be discussing this with whoever replaced the charge pump. That would be my starting point.

They have parts lists online, not service manuals.

If it's a warranty issue, I wouldn't suggest you should fix it yourself, but if you're looking for something to check, start with the compressor belt, and clutch assembly. Is the belt tight enough to run? Does it look like it's been slipping? Do you see any signs of scorched paint on or around...

No, not really. It means the cable offers no resistance to your ohm meter. That's all it means. Since you have a volt meter and know how to read it, you might try this. Go to the starter and locate the signal wire from the start circuit. Usually a single wire with a spade terminal. Find that...

Then the problem wouldn't be electrical. You can forget worrying about unplugging wires an harness clips. Where I would start is with a simple jumper lead with battery power. Do this with the key off. Place two finger tips on the pump cover, then touch and release the jumper to the post on the...

I'm not sure the plug under the pump will stop the problem. The connector at the temp sensor is probably first in line after the fuse, so if that's still in play the next fuse will blow too. Start with test light at the stud on top of the pump. One should get power, the other has a ground...

There's more. Okay, you used NAPA filters, no problem there. I use them almost exclusively. You did NOT put an O ring on the top of the elements, correct? If you got the filters bled easily enough, then I think you're good on that point. Next you need to bleed the pump as well. If you fail...

Actually, the characteristics of the three point are not at issue here. My questions about it were aimed primarily on determining if the lift system needs to be involved in the return plumbing from the backhoe. I think you now have a handle on how to properly get oil flow TO the backhoe, but...

Doing fuel filters? Depending on the brand of elements, be careful with the quad ring seals. With Wix or NAPA filters the top of the element is all covered except for the outer edge. Common rookie mistake is to place one of the seals on top of the filter before installing it. WRONG. Just because...

Next we need to discuss what comes after the backhoe valve. Need more information before we get that far. Like does the three point need to work? are there other remote valves on the tractor?

Well, my eyesight "ain't what it used to be" no argument there, but name on the tag looks like it says Chief. If you pull the plug from the port marked N and look inside I'm betting you find the counter bore machined in to it. If the plug is an ORB #10 thread, I would order the 220 915 sleeve...

https://www.northerntool.com/products/chief-power-beyond-plug-model-220915-4875402?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hydraulics%20%3E%20Hydraulic%20Accessories&utm_campaign=Chief&utm_content=4875402&ogmap=SHP%7cPLA%7cGOOG%7cSTND%7cc%7cSITEWIDE%7cOOT%7c%7c%7c%7c168638876%7c8715914...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/na/tractors/agricultural/naaa01agr089under100hp/international-diesel-tractor/drive-train/clutch-controls/cn/C835315A-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/B5CF6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 Is this the self adjusting clutch you're referring to?

Well, sort of. The power beyond will usually be in one of the ports on the right side of the valve. There are often two or three ports there, only one will accept the sleeve. From there to the backhoe valve, and back to the tractor. Exactly WHERE on the tractor depends on whether or not anything...

Free play is generally the distance you can depress your clutch pedal with two fingers. At that point you should be able to determine that the throw out bearing is in contact with the pressure plate release levers. Provided the pedal return spring(s) are functioning properly, you should be able...

Exactly, but he's not there yet, and on his own he's not likely to get there soon.

Sounds like more than slipping. I'd say it's toast. Was there any free play when you started?

I can't tell enough from that photo. The pressure in port is USUALLY on the left, the same side as the relief valve. I don't see a relief valve in the photo. The power beyond sleeve should be on the opposite side, and will screw into one of the out ports, sometimes labeled N, but not always. Can...

Consult a pump shop. Make sure you get the pump numbers and have them handy when you call.

And you're sure you have power to the shut off solenoid stud on top of the injection pump, right?