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??? A horse or mule can go work in places no tractor could even begin to. Please explain this.

I am a firm believer in Stihl products, I have 3 saws and depending on what I am cutting determines which gets used. Big saw for felling, little one for limbing and the middle one for when I am to lazy to bother stopping to change saws.

Hate to break it to ya but old Farmall A's and some other tractors, have no water pump to cool them and using that first style of heater is no different. Hot water rises and the cold settles, natural circulation same as when the engine is running.

DO NOT pay attention to the dipstick, remove the lowest bolt in the side cover the dip stick is in and fill the housing until the oil just starts to run out. The old Ford uses 90 wt. mineral oil or you can use 80w/90w gear oil even though many say not to which is BS. Anyway using the lower hole...

We call them a forestry flail around here.

Yep, chain and a pipe have towed a many ah car or truck.

Being an industrial as Rick said MANY parts are not there you would need to "make" it a farm tractor with lift and PTO. The best way would be to find a parts tractor so you could take two to make one. For the cost of that you could find a good farm tractor ready to go to work.

Ego is making their ZT in a 52" cut now, I know it is not quite a 60" but what is a few inches or couple of extra passes if it is quiet and gets the job done. Look on youtube for a video by Dirt Monkey to see the absolute butal stuff he does to one and it just keeps on going.

I understand about not wanting to mark up the asphalt but I just wanted to add back in the day when I was the one out on the motor grader clearing roads and parking lots (private and non-private. The powers that be decided that my old Cat grader need a rubber edge for much the same reason. The...

I have always considered Harbor Freight tools to be the Bic's of the tool market, use it once and throw it away. If I manage to get a second use then I have gotten my money's worth.

The color of the fuel makes no difference in how good or bad it is, it all comes down to what Jerry said about how the fuel is handled and stored. The bad off road fuel I got was from the co-op, they have above ground tanks that I doubt have ever been treated or looked after since it is not a...

I know of what you speak, a few years ago my neighbor said I should get my fuel at the local co-op to avoid the road taxes so I gave it a shot. Worst fuel I have ever had the misfortune of putting in my Deere. Went back to buying fuel where I had been and troubles went away. I think it had to do...

Same here when I bought my tandem new, used it the first time and all worked correctly, next day no brakes. Wire nuts were in place but the wires were barely stripped so the nuts were on the insulation. I replaced all the wire nuts with soldered and heat shrink.

I put LT's Michelins on my Tundra when it needed new shoes since it spent most of the time with a travel trailer on it and I really cannot tell much if any difference in the ride.

My take, any of those caught looting should be given a severe lead poisoning and left for the crows.

A short top link will angle the rake more toward the ground and if short enough it will clear the tires. I have to do this when I put the 6' rake on my 1025R

Yeah, BTDT and won't do it again!

Let me tell ya, back when I was working for AT&T the CEO made a statement to the affect: "We DO NOT care about the customer, the only people we are concerned about are the share holders." I saw first hand that to be a true statement as did many of the folks I worked with at the time but of...

Whatever you decide on just make sure it is wide enough to cover the width of your tires.

All dogs are GOOD it's some of the people that own them that are not. My little buddy I lost last year, he was a rescue. He never left my side when I was recovering from back and neck surgeries unless I needed my wife for something then he would go get her attention.

There was a time years ago that I did not use any battery maintainers and every year on the lawn equipment or anything using the small UH-1 batteries in the spring I would need to replace them as they would not hold a charge or even start the machine if charged. Since I have power to all the...

I'm stealing this idea (y)

I like the way you think! True but it really ticked me off when i heard one of them was complaining about how far away the hotel accommodations were from there, so they could have power, wifi, etc..

Mayfield caught it bad no doubt but there are a LOT of other communities that were hit equally as hard. A storm that travels over 200 miles on the ground and a mile wide at times affects a lot of people. There has been some small mention of a few others like Dawson Springs, Bowling Green, and...

The lock collar must be turned to unlock it from the bearing, a drift and hammer should be able to turn it. It only takes a little bit of movement to loosen provided it is not rusted tight to the bearing. If all else fails someone good with a torch can cut it off and not hurt the shaft.

My guess would be that a quality shop could build up the defects and re-grind the cam but for the cost of that it may be just as cost effective to purchase new. I for sure would not use that cam the way it is.

Using a clothes hanger ( done it many times ) is the same as using mild steel gas rods, I prefer to use the mid steel rods but clothes hanger are handy if you happen to be out of the other. Using gas is the same as any other welding you have to learn to read the metal to not get it to hot and...

IMHO that ROPS failed big time and Kubota needs to know. A ROPS is suppose to be designed to support he ENTIRE weight of the machine it installed on in a roll over for a reason and from what I understand from the description it was an easy low speed roll and that ROPS would definitely not have...

Clean up the cam and re-evaluate it, remember the lobes of the cam are slightly slanted so the tappets will turn and not put all the wear in one spot. I have yet to see a Ford block worn enough to worry about the cam clearances in the bore but I have heard of some that have had the block bored...

Depending on how hard you are going to work the tractor I would say you could get away with honing the sleeves and putting back standard rings and bearings matched to your crank. Seriously doubt you or the engine will notice any difference between doing that or boring it. As for the cam and...

I would avoid the Husqvarna, I bought on new and sold it less than a year later. It was a nice tractor but it had WAY to much frame flex to suit me plus it did not cut grass well at all.

Tires are going to cost way more than an engine overhaul but before I ran down that hole I would get running since the engine may be perfectly alright and the only way to know is to get it started. Beside any parts needed to get running will be needed if you do overhaul it. As for P/S the best...

Thing is, there are a LOT of us that have no access to ethanol free gas

happy to be of service, I tend to always download ALL the manufacturer documentation I can find about any piece of equipment I own

So far good, I have not had a reason to break down any of the tires loaded with it and at this time do not expect to find any corrosion if I ever have a need to.

Gotta check the label on what you are purchasing to see if it is HyGard compatible. (y)

Another BIG (y)(y)(y) for Mr. Funnel

Another vote for Sta-bil, I use the Marine version of it. In fact I add it to all my fuel cans so that all the equipment has it in the tank all year round. I also add a bit of MMO to provide some lubrication. I top off the fuel tanks when I get done with whatever it is I am using and keep all...

No it does not use gear oil it uses UTF. Look at this:

I checked on Rimguard a couple of years ago, nearest dealer was 2 hours away and they needed all day to fill the tires. That one was a surprise, guess the beet juice is thicker and the flow is slow. Anyway I could not see making two trips, 2 hours each way. RV antifreeze while not as heavy...

When I rebuilt, well replaced actually, the block I found was from a 64' 4000. Same engine only it does not use sleeves, bored it .040 over to clean it up and got the pistons from Tisco. Don't remember who made them but the cost wasn't bad, mind you the work was done in 2014.

I bought one from Tractor Supply (made by Tartar) this year to do the very same thing you are wanting to do, it is a 6' and my old Ford 850 twisted it like a pretzel. It was rated for a 40 to 60 hp tractor. I did manage to straighten it out for the most part and intend to pick up some metal to...

I see where you are going but the thing to remember is that the Ford tractors already had the hardened valve seats needed for unleaded fuel, came from the factory with em'. Nothing to change or add for unleaded fuel. Sometimes folks would remove the sleeves and put in an oversized piston to fit...

The thing is a lot of folks see the overbore and think it going to make a lot more power because it is "overbore" but fact is .010 is not going to make a nickles worth of difference. Bottom line is it is a gimmick.

You do not have to do anything to the block, you are correct the sleeves are slightly thinner to accommodate the larger pistons and rings. No more of a chance of damage, same PIA as other standard dry sleeve to install

Question is what is the ambient air temp when it does this?

Just remember when the system came out in 1939 it was cutting edge tech. Like all things tech, improvement have been made over the years.

I had not realized on how much lumber prices had gone up! It's getting ridiculous I tell ya. I started building a new bird house but had to stop when the bank called and turned down my construction loan.

I have a heavy leaf load to clean up each year and hope the Mow & Vac would take some of the work out of it, WRONG. I got rid of mine ages ago, never could keep it from clogging up regardless of the deck size it was attached to. Toward the end I started blowing the leaves into piles and using...

I would start looking with Just8ns.com or dennis-carpenter.com, if you can get in touch with Derick at just8ns he is a real good source of information and might be able to point in a direction to find one.

The Ford 8N is know (well know) for what we today think of as low oil pressure, fact is the old engines will run for YEARS with as little as 5 lbs. of pressure. As long as you show some pressure on the gauge at high idle you'll be fine. You can put 10W40 in it to make it show a bit more pressure...

Follow this link, you will find a service manual for the P/S unit that should answer all your questions. https://ntractorclub.com/forums/manuals/manuals.htm#service

Looking at the parts book I cannot see anything that should prevent the valve from coming out once you remove the hex plug.

Reminds of how mine looked about 10 years ago, after rebuilding the engine I cleaned and painted it. Still looks good today , mostly dirty with just a few battle scars from bush hogging in the woods.

Get a piece of pvc pipe in a large enough diameter to slide over the PTO shaft, anything that will protect it from the weather will help. If it is like the finish mower I just sold the shaft has quick connects on each end of the shaft, remove it and store it inside.

They grow on ya after a while...

Not always, if this were on an 2N/9N/8N tractor the solenoid is wired differently.

For mine I got a long 1/8" pipe nipple and coupler to screw onto the end of my grease gun hose so it would reach the grease zerk, now the hardest part is getting the zerk pointed in the right direction. I try to give the drive line a shot of grease every 25 hours or so, which reminds me I need...

So far the only thing that is a PIA for me on my 1025R, which is the same tractor, is the primary fuel filter. It is located under the left floor board at the base of the fuel tank, there is NO shutoff in the line, so when you remove the filter you have the full flow of anything in the tank...

Unless it some off breed junk the cutting edge should be a standard bolt pattern, I have yet to run upon any blade that did not. Your local farm store should be able to get a replacement 6' cutting edge for you.

The hundred series tractors (6xx & 8xx) that came after the NAA did have the options of power steering and the x60 (1955-1957), x61 (1958-1962) of each series had live PTO's and the x71 of each series had the Select-O-Matic transmission which is the ONLY transmission available on these tractors...

Don't worry about the oil, GL-5 will work quite well and not hurt a thing, your problem is the lift cylinder needs the be rebuilt or replaced.

I tow that much and a bit more with my Tundra using only the receiver and no WD. I agree I would tow it, just get the tongue weight right.

I have used backhoes of all sizes and would never consider moving the machine any other way than with the dipper. Doing it any other way on a job site is a good way to be looking for an new job.

Yep, frame on the dually's is wider than the chassis cab, at least for GM's. Ran into that issue when I put a flatbed on the K3500.

The early 70's model 350's had soft cams but after they got that sorted out there they have proven to be very reliable. Never got put less than 200k to 300k on any 350 or 454 engine before I sold the vehicle. Best I ever had was on a 292, 6 cylinder that had over 500k when sold and I would have...

I fill up at the end of each use no matter if it ran 5 minutes of 5 hours, keeps bad things from developing in the tank and I never have to be concerned about does it have enough fuel.

Check this one out, https://egopowerplus.com/worththewait, there is a youtube video of a guy putting it through torture I would never think of trying and it kept on going with plenty of battery life left. I would have looked around to find one if I had know about them before I purchased the...

That is what I did last year, got a 92' K3500, 7.4L, 3.73 gear to use as work vehicle around the place. It was a barn find that had been parked by a couple that had used it to haul their camper to and from Florida each year. Only had 150k on it when I got it but sitting was not kind to it, had...

I have used a few different brands over the years the last being Slime, I will NEVER have any of that in any machine I intend to keep. The last time I used it to make it through the last of the mowing season with plans to replace the tires over the winter. Well things did not go as planned and...

The truck I miss the most is the second truck I owned, a 1966 Chevrolet 3/4 ton with a 292 ci and 4 speed with granny gear and 4:10 rear. It wasn't fast but it was STOUT, I have regretted selling it everyday since.

I recently brazed an oil pan for my SIL's work place. It was going to take a month to get another, they needed the machine and none of their maintenance people knew what brazing was much less how to do it. Seems to be becoming a lost art around here.

I have tried almost every brand of tire out there over the years and finally figured out if you want a consistently good and dependable tire get Michelins. The worst brands in order have been: Cooper, Firestone and Goodyear. Michelins have always performed for me where the other brands have...

Yeah like on RV forums where you need a one ton dually to haul a 14' popup trailer...

I have used that screen material procedure many times to repair plastic parts, only I use my soldering iron instead of a steel bar. A little bit of a learning curve but it does work well.

Back in the 70's Ford's Louisville line (L) did have the 50, the quarry I worked at had a small fleet of L750 single axle dumps with 391 gasser for delivery to individuals and L800 & L9000 tandem dumps for the construction/paving crews and some of the tandems did have diesels (the 9000's) but...

Not just farmers also anyone not driving fast enough to suit them, many is the time I have been passed on hills, curves or with on coming traffic simply because I was not going 5 or 10 mph over the limit.

That is why the old tractors had two brake pedals, to assist in steering when the front got light. Also so the steering would not be hard when there was no weight on the back for none power steering tractors it can make a big difference. Personally I hate the fact the newer HST tractors do not...

That is the way all round bales are hauled around here, never a strap to be seen or found. Plenty of round bales on the side of the road and many times they don't know or care they lost one. Complaining to LEO is a waste of good air as they will not do a thing to address it, especially anything...

Don't get me started on RV drivers, truckers have to test and have a CDL, RV's all you need is a license and may have never driven anything bigger than your Prius.

I have been saying this for YEARS. There are so many people that THINK they can drive that are a real hazard to the motoring public, many of them are elderly and a lot not so much.

Most of the places around here (food, bank or other) there is barley enough width to get my dually through without scuffing the tires or rims.

Rule of thumb is get a cutter that covers the width of the tires, that applies to any type/style of cutter. If your tractor can handle wider that's fine if you and your wallet OK with the extra cost.

(y)(y)(y)

He's not older than dirt but was there when the patent was issued.

Under the battery box os a pivot point, there should be a fiction disc under that. You may need to replace it or might get lucky and just tighten it up a bit.

One thing you will want to do is put an in-line shutoff on the fuel so you can change the filters. The primary is mounted under the left foot/floor and the line comes directly out of the tank with no shut off. Remove the filter and you'll drain the tank of any fuel in it.

IMHO the 1025R is a really good little tractor. Plenty of power for its size and the 60D deck makes a BEAUTIFUl cut, much better than any zero turn of any brand that has been used on my place. I do not however use mine to cut grass much since the zero turn can do it faster and I really don't...

First start checking the fluid regularly so it does not get low, second add in line filters so that any debris in the system from the previously failed pumps cannot get into the new pump. Install the filter in the return line to the pump even if the shop flushes the system and lines. Also I...

That looks like a Dearborn 19-2 dozer blade except the frame on them was pipe, not channel. I am sure Ford was not the only one to have made blades like that. As for price that wholly depends on the person wanting one, a collector maybe if you could luck onto one but scrap most likely is its value.

There is a paint just for radiators, might take some looking around or Google-fu to find it.

Here's Mutt and L.J., can you figure out who is who? Both are members of the "family" so they had to have names. Sometimes you have to wait until you sus out their personality before you can name them.

If new belts are riding proud in the sheaves and the tension is correct the only other explanation is you are traveling to fast for the tall/thick grass you are trying to cut. Slow down or take multiple cuts to minimize the load on the belt, a little bit of pitting in the sheaves will not hurt...

This could be correct I just checked some of my belts and the match code/numbers are not on any of them. Back in the day belts had an additional set of numbers molded on them and those had to "match" for the belts to be a matched set. So manufacturing must be holding tolerances to a more strict...

Tapping is NOT an option at this time, the threads MUST go completely though the hub so the bolts can push against the pulley. With it assembled the tap will stop short of completely passing through the hub. However I would re-tap to a common thread after it is off. Using a hammer is a risky...

Those smaller tapped holes are to push the sheave off of the taper lock hub. Use good bolts that will not mushroom as it could be really tight.

I have used their price match many times simply because they are close by and handy. Save gas and save money is a win win.

That's about how long the good ones are good for, a marine rated switch is the only one I have found that lasts for any reasonable length of time.

Considering that the pulley assembly on these is a two piece unit, the hub on the shaft should allow for some wiggle room to move it in or out some and since you are looking for about 3/16 I think there would be plenty to allow for that.

You might try something I have seen several times, try backing it on with the tail wheel hanging over the tongue, might not give you enough tongue weight or make the trailer tail heavy but you don't know till you try. As for how it looks now, I would not give it a second thought.

Unless the pulley is wobbling there is nothing to do there being as it is bolted up to the shaft it should be running true to the shaft. Shimming is the only way to correct the cant of the pulley and shaft to the lower pulley that I can think of. 195F is pretty hot.

Jumper around your key switch, that has always been a weak part of the ignition system.

Roller on the ground then adjust the top link so the skids are level but not touching the ground that gives a cut somewhere between 2 1/2 and 3 inches.

I would add shims under the pulley end to eliminate or reduce the cant of the pulley. Lastly you can add some shims between the extension tube and gearbox if you need the pulley more to the left after you have figured what is needed to get the cant out of it.

The gearbox needs to go toward the back of the mower while the pulley end needs to go toward the front. It will get straight, just takes some playing with to get there and keep the tension right. The .8 difference won't matter as long as they are matched belts and you can get them on.

This help?

No negative at all, drill away, if you can get straight on and centered to it. Sometimes if you can find a left hand drill bit as you are drill they will come lose and back out. Finding left hand drill bits is the hard part.

As said soak it and tap it with a hammer the vibrations will help to get the oil to penetrate along the threads. I have removed many frozen bolts and pins by doing this. It is slow and can take days, I prefer to leave heat until the ultimate last thing when working around bearings and seals. I...

Penetrating oil and a small hammer will work on the bolt. Spray it and let it soak for awhile then start tapping it with the hammer while gently trying to turn it with vise grips or small pipe wrench. Keep soaking and tapping until it begins to move, it will take time so don't expect it to...

Yep, got it covered (y)

To loosen the belts first you loosen the 4 bolts holding the gearbox and back off the push bolt, then loosen the two bolts holding the pulley end and back off the push bolt on that end and then you can slide it back enough to get the slack you need to remove or replace the belts. To tighten just...

In the current heat the draft might be comforting...

Hooked up to my new trailer, purchased in May, to take care of some property about 15 miles away. Got everything I thought I would need and immediately noted the brakes on the trailer were not working, had been fine the last time I used it about 2 weeks ago. Could not put off the work I had...

I never use any lube on them, it holds grit and acts like a grinding compound.

Yer over thinking it, been doing in frames for years and always used plastigage without issue to verify what I already knew by using a micrometer. However the bottom line is if you are doing an in frame there is nothing you can do to change the clearance, you have to go back with what came out...

That looks and measures out to be almost exactly the same as those used on Alamo/Mott fine cut flails. Check it against the measurements given in the Flailmasters catalog and see if you do not agree.

It's your tractor use whatever oil you want, if were me it would be a detergent oil. It will not hurt a thing to change.

I have found most of the time the switch itself is the problem, the internal connections get so worn they no longer will ground good enough to energize the solenoid. Easy to prove, ground the wire that connects to the switch and see if it works like it should. The switches are easy to change out.

Check the bellcrank under the battery box to see if it binding or that the battery box has not rusted and is letting the battery rest on it.

Check with Just8Ns.com, they have almost everything N related.

Should be easy to get bearings and seals at a local shop, nothing special.

Fuel MUST, MUST come out of the injection lines or a diesel engine will not run. If fuel is passing through the filters and is getting to the injection pump but NOT coming from the injection lines when loosened while turning the engine over then the problem most likely is the fuel shut off...

The last 8N rolled off the assembly line in 1952 and never had a diesel option. If fuel is indeed getting though the filters and to the injection pump then it sounds like the fuel shutoff (the thing that kills the engine when you stop the tractor) is stuck in the closed position. Without know...

The first truck I ever owned was a 1953 Ford flathead V8, found it in a barn. A plain work truck to be sure. The second truck was a new 1971 Chevy Cheyenne half ton that i immediately lost to my then new wife because she could sit up higher and see better, she has had a truck ever since while I...

For filters mounted on the side I take some aluminum foil and fold it into multiple layers to form trough under the filter to the drain pan. I still sometimes get a little oil on the side of the engine block but not the hugh mess I get if not using it. Especially on the old GMC K3500 truck where...

Did you by chance replace the relief valve? With the side cover off look for swirling oil at the back of the pump. With a new pin and adjustment with Zane's tool it should be right.

Sounds like it is time for an R&R of the top cover linkages.

Make sure the little lever under the seat is in the implement control position (horizontal) and not in draft position (vertical), if it is in the correct position then the cam follower pin is worn out and possibly the cam is worn as well. To fix that you must remove the top cover and replace the...

I recently had two hydraulic lines I could not get to stop leaking, new fittings, new everything and it still leaked. Used every type of recommended tape or liquid sealant available, this went on for nearly 2 months, finally got some Loctite 567 and no more leaks.

I was at NAPA yesterday driving the the old war wagon a 92' GMC 3500 4x4 dually with flatbed and parked next to a new Colorado, it was every bit as big as the old truck if not more, it was definitely higher off the ground. My Tundra sits higher is longer and takes up more room in the garage than...

Check for a bad coil.

His point is to many times EI is put on to cover up other issues with a worn engine. I like EI and think it has its place but I will not have it on a tractor of mine. I have had conversations with to many folks that have converted from points to EI and have been left with a sitting tractor when...

That looks like the brother to my Mott fine cut flail. A little difference in the lift pin arrangement but otherwise the same.

DO NOT overfill the sump as it will most likely start leaking into the brakes. Take out the bottom bolt of the side plate and use that as your fill level. IF as you say the 3 point is working like it should then I am going to go out on limb and say you have a seperate pump and sump for the...

How have you connected the hydraulic bucket to the system? Did you connect using the test port or some other way?

Problem with craigslist at least locally is there were plenty of adds for trailers just none of them had stock, place yer order and wait was the reply from each and everyone I contacted when looking for one.

Last month I decided to purchase a 7K tandem to replace a single axle I had unexpectedly sold, a guy came up to me in a parking lot and made an offer for it I could not refuse, after calling around and being told by every dealer they were out or just sold the last one and would be months before...

The pump does NOT run off the engine, on the old 8N tractors it is run off the PTO shaft, the pump works only when the PTO is turning and there are NO screens or filters on the tractor. Fill the sumps with diesel or kerosene and drive it around for 5 to 10 minutes doing everything you can to...

There are exposed head bolts on the 134 engine used in the early 2000 tractors, put a socket on one, if a 3/4" socket fits it has 1/2" bolts, if an 11/16" socket fits then the bolts are 7/16". Simple as that.

I do not understand what you mean by idling high? You do not mow with the engine at idle. Now if you mean the engine is at PTO speed and it is increasing its rpm's by a small amount when you start going up a hill then I will assume the governor is doing its job and increasing the engines power...

Check the color of the spark, is blue or yellow? I know you said you have replaced the spark plugs but that won't fix weak spark if that is what the problem is.

Mine tends to run about that same temp give or take a bit. I have a 195 degree thermostat in mine and have thought about putting a 180 in instead but just have never taken the time. I put a new radiator, water pump and had the block tanked (cleaned) when I rebuilt the engine so I know the...

That is when the trees get trimmed, standing rule here is if the ROPS hits it it gets its ears raised.

This tire looked just fine when starting out that morning but by the time the trailer was parked you can see it was not so fine. Funny thing is it never lost a bit of air until it was parked for the night and found it flat the next day. It was a Goodyear tire and it was NOT overloaded, just that...

I prefer this type of pin, I have had the lynch pins come open as well. Not so much since switching to these.

I raise mine up and let it rest on jack stands then a 3/4" socket and impact does the deed. In and out in under 5 minutes since I keep an extra set of blades ready then sharpen to old ones when I have a few free minutes.

There is nothing a man with a torch and welder cannot make work.

Now days my take is that if there is ice outside then I am inside but I know everyone cannot do that and more years ago than I care to think about I was one of them.

The thing to do is prevent the oil dilution to begin with and the way to do that is be sure to get the engine up to operating temp every time it is run. Short trips that do not get the engine up to temp for a length of time is the reason IMHO why it is happening. All engines on cold start have...

I would consider the FEL and a box blade a liability, yes weight is your friend but it needs to be low mounted a possible such as loaded tires and wheel weights are the way to go. Mowing steep slopes can be scary, just pay attention to the pucker factor, if puckered up to where your back side...

It won't know or care, just pour it and go.

Yes Sherman's most definitely do change PTO speed. Not sure I would want to use a 3 point mounted snowblower, all that looking behind would get old quick.

If it is indeed a a 4 cylinder 1964 2000 with a 4 speed the the only thing it could have is a Sherman which has the shift lever in front of your left leg. A picture would help.

Why here in KY those are thicker than fleas on ah coon dogs butt.

I wash mine all the time with a pressure washer and have never had any problems, just do not focus a lot of high pressure on anything electrical or fuel related and you should be fine. After all tractors are left out in the weather all the time.

That is not the serial number, the serial number is hand stamped on a flat place on the back left corner of the block. They can sometimes be hard to impossible to read. Use a wire brush (brass) on a dermel works good for cleaning off the numbers often making them easier to read.

I was looking at a new 7K trailer a couple of weeks ago and it had a 2" hitch, so should and is are two entirely different things. Only way to know is to put eyes on it for it could be either one.

I wait until they are all on the ground then blow them into a pile then I use the FEL to move them. Works a lot better than I thought it would when the idea blew though the dust bowl in my head.

Just simply remove a disc blade or two until you are at the cut width you want but overall the disc will still be a 12' just not cutting 12'

It is likely the points in the VR are burned and sticking, try removing the battery wire from the VR and see if the vampire drain stops.

It will handle it, an old 8N ford can and it is rated at 24 hp, if in really heavy stuff you might need to take a half width cut but other than that if it can pick it up it will cut with it.

How about one of these:

Do not make it positive ground if you convert to 12V.

Or find a re-pop that is made for 12V

I have to agree, I have not had a bit of issue from using blended gas from the pump after developing a strict regimen of treating all my storage cans with a mix of small amounts of Stabil, MMO and ATF. In fact it has cleaned up a few carbs that were acting up before I started doing it and I have...

The 641 tach is driven off the hydraulic pump mounted on the back of the engine, most all conversions us a delco 3 wire alternator available everywhere. Simple to wire, there are thousands of wiring diagrams and how to's on the web. If you do convert to 12V I suggest you remove the ignition...

Go to your local hydraulic hose shop and have one made up as long as you want, I made one over 20 years ago that is 30" long and it sure made greasing a lot easier back in the day when you had ball joints and control arm bushing to grease on cars and pickups.

I would just bolt the ones you have on with a support on the under side, so what if it hangs off a bit in the front or back it will still lift or pull every and anything you need to with a chain. Or for that matter weld them on and you will still have more strength than anything you should hook...

Find a manual, chances are you can change the width of the tractor by simply changing how the tires are mounted or post a pic of the tires and rims so folks can see what type of rims it has and thus give you more options.

Very, very unlikely to happen unless you act like King Kong and even then it is unlikely to happen.

When all else fails pull the starter and use a pry bar on the flywheel.

That is how we started out, sold the RV and after adding metal to the sides we now have enclosed parking for the tractors and the generator is now out of the way of the car and trucks.

I do not have the LnL but do use a pistol grip with a long flex hose and so far even with arthritis I have no issues and unless I get to the point I cannot use my hands at all will never have/use a battery powered grease gun. I want to FEEL how the fitting is taking grease, if it is getting...

My money is on don't worry about it, drive it like you stole it until something serious comes along. You have power, not adding oil between changes and even if you were to add a quart between changes it is still nothing to be concerned about.

More good fuel systems have been screwed up because of bad ignition. Check the spark first, make sure it is blue and snappy not yellow and lazy. Unless you have tuned it up lately I will bet your points are worn out, you need to have someone that knows how to read the wear on the points to do a...

It (0w-8) was in the Amsoil magazine a few issues back when they announced the 0w-16.

Hold yer hat they are already working on a 0w-8 synthetic oil, it would not surprise me to eventually see vehicles using a straight 0w oil.

You need to give enough time to circulate the oil on startup and that should take only seconds, I usually give it about 15 seconds to a minute at most to stabilize the oil pressure and then use it gently for a few minutes, mostly driving it to where I need to use it, before putting it to hard...

There is considerable difference between the two, industrial chrome plating has a heavy doses of chromium to provide a durable surface while automotive bright chrome is a light coat of chromium over nickle and some copper to give it the bright shine.

A properly installed Sherman gets its oil from the main transmission there is no way to check or add oil to it once it is installed.

I hate those pull back collars! My solution was to replace the yoke with one of the push pin type yokes, I would have used the twist type if it had been available locally. If I remember correctly it cost about $40 to change it. Money well spent to no longer have to put up with the frustration.

You will better off doing the slow way of letting it soak and trying to turn it by rocking the wheel with it in gear, using something to pull it may just break something big time making it necessary to open the engine for repair.

Both, use causes wear even though everything is in oil, first a hydraulic system is not filtered as finely as the engine is so there are more particulates floating around in there. Then add to that the heat generated which causes seals and packing to harden and finally most hydraulic systems...

A static load, just holding something off the ground, makes no difference to the hydraulics, it is the same amount of "pressure/load" on them whether it is running or shut off. You will put more strain on the hydraulics by moving around and hitting ruts or holes bouncing the bucket or implement...

No harm to the system but it is a major safety issue.

I keep about 15 gallons of diesel on hand, one diesel tractor does not burn all that much. I get fuel at a truck stop to get the freshest fuel possible and add my own treatment. The local that sells off road fuel is higher than the truck stop, so why pay extra for red dye plus they do not have...

This is one of those things that ain't that bad but will probably get worse the more it is messed with. I would call it the tractors first war wound and carry on as long it is not interfering with anything.

A good healthy dose of Seafoam could clean up some carbon or Techron both are cheap enough. I personally use MMO added to all my gas cans, a small dose of 4 oz. per gas can helps the gas stay fresh and it also cleans. I have had zero problems with the blended gas getting funky since I started...

I can think of a couple of things that could cause it but best bet is you have a sticky valve. I would pop the valve cover and verify the valve clearance is correct and give it a good cleaning.

As it has been stated the rear of the cutter should be higher than the front also the connection on the tractor should be in the lowest link position on the tractor. The link position on the tractor affects the draft control, which is something you do not need/use with a heavy cutter, but...

I am sure others have talked about this before BUT, John Deere designers have to really have their collective heads up their back side to put a fuel filter right against the outlet of the fuel tank and NOT put in a shutoff valve. I had the misfortune of somehow getting moisture and the...

First of all I like the forum, gained quite a lot of info before deciding to join. Second it y'alls fault that I bought this flail mower after reading every page of the mega thread about them. I finally found and picked up this 1996 model New Holland/Ford 918H from an estate sale, was used to...