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I haven't fixed it. It actually went down with a fuel problem I haven't sorted out either and I just parked it and have been using something else till I have time to tear it down.

Yea I'm sure I'm pushing it a bit. The field I was in had a few things that were pinky sized and knee high. I've cut some 2" sumac trees with it it but always back over those so I don't expose the lines to abuse. Ironic that it went down on the easy stuff. I'll get some zip ties and try to...

Found it. Should I throw some tape on that connection so it doesn't unhook again? Or is it easier to plug that back in vs having the wires ripped out....?

Looks like maybe wire was connected somewhere and the end snapped off. I don't see where it was attached though.

Was engaged brush hogging and just stopped spinning. I had been doing some thick stuff earlier in the day but at the time it was mostly just broom straw. Light is on just no rotation. It's the compact 34HP 1250. What should I be testing first to troubleshoot it?

No rocks or trees to worry about. I'm reclaiming old pasture that haven't been maintained in 10+ years so lots of 1-5" saplings. Mostly sumac so they're pretty soft so 2" or so gets brush hugged. Anything bigger and I just picked up a Woodland Mills WM88 shipper for.

Right now I'm cleaning up tons of over grown brush and the brush hog cuts everything I can run over. The brush hog was a $250 marketplace find so I don't mind beating it up. However once everything is back to "normal" I'm thinking the flail mower may be better for regular maintenance. Shorter...

Been looking at flail mowers lately and it looks like people are driving pretty slow in the videos. I'm on the low end of the HP spec, 34, for the 6' brush hog I'm currently using but it handles what im cutting fine. If I hooked up to a 6' flail mower would it cut just adequately and allow the...

No it doesn't have a loader (and is still broke down lol) it'd be for a 34hp compact 1250

This one:

Would the cheap vevor be worth trying?

What do y'all like individual teeth or a bar? 6' bucket and 34HP MF tractor.

No problems mentioned in the listing. At a dealer that sells a ton of equipment locally.

I know location plays a big part in it but does $12k for a gear drive LS 4047 with under 1100 hours sound right?

Took longer that I wanted because there aren't too many radiator shops locally that deal with repairs but I found one that called me today and said that the core is ruptured and a repair wouldn't hold. So it'll be recored and hopefully ready at the end of this coming week. I honestly don't know...

One step at a time a guess. I'll try to repair the radiator if not I'll replace it. If that doesn't solve the issues we can go from there. Anything I can't do I can trailer to have done.

I can swap a radiator easy enough, probably a water pump, but not sure I'm confident enough to try a head gasket. I think I'll run to the radiator shop next week and have them look at it. The engine not turning over was a single time. For a few hours. It didn't even try to crank when it did...

Leak is at the seam where you can see the brass on the edge. Inside doesn't look great. Radiator repair shop said $60+ for a repair up to $400 for a recore. Not sure I should even try.

Pic:

Got the pressure tester and my radiator has a leak. I noticed some corrosion at the spot but never any moisture but by 5 PSI she was spraying. I'm not super mechanical but I assume this would account for all the symptoms and take care of things? One dealer told me it was discontinued and he...

Local Advanced Auto has a tester I'll grab tomorrow. Basically you buy it then get a refund when you bring it back. Theirs is a ridiculous $270 though lol

Completely different behavior cold starting it a few minutes ago. Within a few seconds I could see the water rising (had the cap off) and eventually start flowing from the over flow tube. I couldn't see any signs of water flowing through the system. Within 5 or so minutes the water was pretty...

Anyone know if like Autozone or Advance loan a tool program would have a pressure tester?

I've got the parts manual for it. Thinking about replacing the radiator cap and thermostat just because they're cheap and probably original. It is a low hour tractor though with only 600 hours. I'll also do the above recommended this evening to see if it could be the water pump.

Drained the water and it was still really dirty. Almost tea like.

I'll need to double check with the manual but I believe the fill tube and dipstick tube are the same on this model. It's jet black so probably needs replaced. But I believe that's a good thing in my case because white and frothy would point to a head gasket problem right?

Maybe I spoke too soon. Shut it off and a little smoke came from the engine.

Could I have gotten lucky and it was something simple with the fluid? Drained and refilled with water with the intent of just flushing it. I've been letting it running for 15+ minutes fluctuating between 1k-1.5k RPM with no over flow, no smoke/steam, and the temp guage steady between the T and E.

It did the no crank once. Dealer is sending me $1k partial refund to correct whatever is going on.

A couple weeks ago I bought the compact MF1250 that was a trade in at a local dealer. First few hours using it I noticed it was running warm so I kept an eye on it. When done I blew debris from the radiator screen. Second few hours the meter showed cooler than the first time so I thought a was...

What does suck is the rear lift arm speed. It's so slow even empty. Especially down. I'll probably also swap the brush hog attachment pins to the inside. The tractor arms were so spread out that I had to really take out the movement so they wouldn't sway contacting the rear tires.

Got it hooked up and made a few passes on one of our fields and it was fine. It was the easier of our fields but it scooted through better than I was expecting. The 1250 is geared pretty low and is essentially a 16x16 speed and I cut in 10 and probably could have gone higher.

I've got a 231 that's down for repair and I was looking to get something else to just replace it since in hindsight I needed a 4x4 and didn't realize it. I wanted a 40HP but the prices here stick and deals get gobbled up in minutes. The 1250 I grabbed as a bridge till I can find something...

I understand I'll need to go slower using a lower gear but could I damage a 1250 by using it to cut with my 6' cutter?

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Anyone have the part number for this line? It's the one that runs from the injectors, under the gas tank, and connects into the gas tank behind the battery. Rubbing the gas tank rubbed a hole in it where my finger is.

That little pump wasn't running. I followed it's hot line to a capped end. Put it on the hott terminal and I could hear it turn on. Within a couple seconds I had fuel squirting out of a pinhole in the line that must have finally broke through. So ill find somewhere to get that line fixed and...

That little pump wasn't running. I followed it's hot line to a capped end. Put it on the hott terminal and I could hear it turn on. Within a couple seconds I had fuel squirting out of a pinhole in the line that must have finally broke through. So ill find somewhere to get that line fixed and...

Would it do anything to open the line on the filter and the 2 bolts on the ejection pump at the same time?

Would it do anything to open the line on the filter and the 2 bolts on the ejection pump at the same time?

The lever on mine was replaced by the electric pump.

Yes I opened the line and the new green fuel is there

I pulled the tank and it did have some goop in it. The nyoln filter at the fuel shut off valve was covered in it. Got it cleaned and am having trouble getting the fuel system to reprime. The fuel that's entered the bowl so far is from the last batch as I put in road fuel this time. I've got the...

I have WIX oil and fuel filters on their way from Amazon.

Siphoned out the fuel I could. A little trash came out with it. Also included a picture of the inside of my tank. Should I go through the hassle of pulling it and washing it out?

Anyone with a link to the manual for the 231 I can print off? Ideally for free. Or can at least tell me the capacity for the engine oil and coolant system?

I hiked back to it just now and after 10-15 seconds she fired up. Still doesn't quite sound right though. Got it to the barn though so I'll change all the fluids and start my own records for it.

Brush hogging and she shut down after about 30min. Cranks but won't fire up. Fuel bowl looks fine. Oil is a little low but shouldn't be low enough to be a problem. I recently went from a 5' to a 6' cutter and could tell she was working harder but I didn't think it'd be a problem. What should...

Yea I don't believe that bottom weld is by Woods either.

After taking it apart and looking it over in the daylight I think I may just have a buddy weld it back together. May may an inch or so shorter but I think it'll be okay. What do y'all think?

The tractor end is completely gutted.

This is the bush hog end and should be fine once I pull the broken piece out.

I'll get pictures in a minute. The bush hog side of the pto has the square rod that slips into the tubing on the tractor side pto. The tubing is what shattered.

I bought a used Woods 72 off FB and like a dummy raised it too high for the top link setting and busted the PTO shaft. The bottom end (cutter side) may be okay but the tractor side is toast. Can I buy just the one side or do I need the whole thing? Recommendations on where to buy?

I've been cutting 2" with this old mower trying to reclaim some neglected pasture. I have no doubt that the Woods will handle a bit more.

It's actually built like a tank. I was able to find a few hits for them and it appears they're rated for 4". At some point they were made lighter duty and renamed 720X and the gear box on those is smaller and black. Those are rated for 3".

Looking at a Woods 720 that's probably from the late 90s or early 00s. It's needs some patches welded in from being stored out in the weather but doesn't have a lot of use on it otherwise. I don't think this is an X version. Does anyone know what size trees this is rated for?

Thanks for the reply. I'm leaning towards Pat's because I'm starting from scratch on implements and buying something old and not the right length is possible. Steering issue has been resolved. The rear diff had frozen and some soaking in PB Blaster freed it up. I contacted the pervious owner...

Anyone know if the Pat's Quick change will work on the arms of the 231? Just saw the email from the forum offering them on sale for the weekend.

Looking at my picture there's a quarter size rubber piece between the glass bowl and wing nut. I've watched some videos and it doesn't seem that it's an included piece.

Going to replace the fuel filter because I can't tell if it's an off road mix giving it that brown look or if it's just nasty. That bottom rubber piece is dry rotted and needs replaced. Anyone have a name or part number for it?

I soaked it overnight in PB Blaster and when I cut a couple hours this evening it had freed up and was working as it should. I appreciate the help from everyone. I'll keep putting the PB Blaster on it nightly to keep the parts from seizing again. Here's problem #2: My PTO is turning slowly even...

Not many thorns. It's a bunch of little sumac trees. Most are under 1.5" and the bush hog is taking them out. Anything bigger I'm going going around them and will cut with a chainsaw once I'm done with the tractor work. As far as the pedal goes I've been spraying it down and have 3-4" of...

Here's a field I'm cleaning up. Hasn't been taken care of in about 13 years.

I'm in SE Ohio. I pulled the lever up as far as I could into the position shown but I still feel like it's not opened up.

Bought a MF231 a couple days ago to manage property we bought to build and small scale farm on. I have a little experience operating a New Holland 65 about 20 years ago and have been borrowing a Kubota L2900 the last few weeks but I'm completely new to MF and have only figured out the basics so...

I'm new to tractors and bought a MF231 to manage some property we're buying. I'm pretty sure I'm having the same problem as the OP. Turn the wheels and the tractor just pushes forward making 2 big old ruts. Anyone have pictures of where exactly the lever is and what position it should be in?