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This is a skidder, It will do things that no tractor could ever dream of. But it would really suck to try to use one to till your garden. I'm guessing that you're not talking about a skidder though. There is no perfect tool that will do all jobs equally well. Some are capable of doing many...

Was the employee you talked to at a station that's listed on the Pure Gas website?

Yeah, it's user updated, so certainly worth verifying before driving far to a station. The phone number for each station is listed though, so it's easy to do.

It's certainly more than E10 or E15, but I've never seen it be more expensive than the canned stuff. None of these are near you? https://www.pure-gas.org/maps/MI

They do. https://www.pure-gas.org/maps/PA

Find the balance point and weld on a D ring, Easier to set implements onto a trailer with fenders, pickup bed or to set them perpendicular to the trailer that way.

It can last a lot longer than that. I've used diesel that was at least 3 years old. 6-8 months isn't an issue. If you're worried, use a couple gallons at a time mixed with fresh fuel.

I assume, by "14k axles" you mean tandem 7k axles. They don't make 14,000 lb. axles that will work under a trailer that small. But yes, it's very easy to overload a dump trailer with rock. Even the highest quality manufacturers don't necessarily make them to be loaded to the gills with rock. If...

Any dump trailer can easily be overloaded. I've never seen a 6x12 dump trailer that is rated to haul 12,000 lbs. But, you have a good point. The OP bought a trailer from a company that specifically advertises that it's products are cheap. "Affordable" and "inexpensive" is all over the place on...

Too expensive and complicated for what it's worth. If someone is green enough to need something like that, they should be limiting themselves to small loads in general or seek hands on instruction from someone with more experience.

It would help if we knew species and roughly the max size of the rounds you'll be dealing with. Also, do you intend to start selling wood or heating with it? If not, a splitter (either bought or rented) isn't worth it from a financial perspective.

I would rather verify that the lever is in the appropriate position for the activity rather than assume that the switch for a dummy light is operating correctly. Dummy lights like that quit working often enough, especially on off road machines, like a tractor, that I'd want to be verifying...

In the environments where I have run a tractor, mirrors are almost always useless in short order, no matter where they're located on the machine. Not necessarily from breakage, just from getting covered in dust and grime. If you were operating in a low dust/dirt environment, that might change. I...

Don't know what kind of conditions you're operating in, but everywhere I've ever used a tractor, a mirror down by my feet would be totally useless in short order. I'm still baffled by this whole discussion. Is there some reason that the 4wd lever can't be seen or felt?

It probably wouldn't damage the hub, but it would almost certainly break or bind up the bit. Your best bet would be to take the hub to a machinist. Do you have a link to the video you reference? I'm not 100% sure I follow what you're trying to do.

Can't you just look at the lever?

Lower flow still works with an auger. It just turns slower. My auger is rated for 7-17 GPM. My machine is rated at 11 GPM. His L6060 is 9.4 GPM.

Yes. Ideally, you should find one that is designed for the flow rate of your tractor. It'll still work with augers designed for faster flow rates, it'll just turn slower.

In that case, a boom lift and small, light saw should do the job. (y)

I haven't used one, but I spent 20 years doing residential tree work. Trimming and removals with chain saws, pole saws, pruners etc, running loaders, skid steers, boom lifts etc. etc. Those loader mounted trim saws look like they'd break on the first day and there's no way you'd be able to do a...

The Anderson connectors that @Fallon suggested are a great option. I have one wired into my pickup. Only downside to them is it requires jumper cables that are compatible with them. If you're in a situation where you're using someone else's cables, or just a "regular" set of cables, it won't...

https://everlasttarps.com.au/two-way-tailgate.html

There are ways to make a tailgate that will do both. Tough to describe in writing though...

Do you have steel fabricating capabilities?

Bring it to a welding gas supply place and ask them. It's not a rental tank, so you're good there. It's got relatively new-ish looking barcode stickers on it, so it's not way out of date. If I had to guess just based on the pics, I'd say Mig gas of some sort.

Yeah, hydraulic auger is so much better by a huge margin. They're also significantly more expensive. PTO augers are for occasional use by folks with no rocks and few roots in their ground.

Cutting a curve can be caused by an unevenly sharpened chain, a bent bar, or spread guide rails. You should not be waiting till the saw is "cutting poorly" to sharpen it. Your description of the saw sometimes throwing chips and sometimes sawdust is often indicative of spread or worn guide rails...

Exactly. I don't like the idea of mounting a winch to something that it can easily break if used at full capacity.

If you're going to mount a winch on the front of that tractor, I would mount it here, not on the bucket. Bucket mount like that is a good way to bend or break something.

Not using the tractor. Best way to avoid that with a PTO auger is to pull it out of the hole repeatedly as you drill the hole and clear the dirt. Don't just drill all the way down in one go, even if the tractor will do it.

What part failed? Have you called them?

I'm a little confused. Not sure exactly what you mean by "steel pole barn" and why would having one have an effect on being under insured? That's something that could happen with any type of building.

You're either a robot or have a robot answering for you. Why?

Ask yourself why every picture they have, in the ad, of a log being lifted, isn't a real picture?

I've owned and used a wide variety of tongs and various other things to lift, drag and otherwise move logs. (20 years doing tree work). You should not use tongs connected to a bucket. Your chances of damaging the bucket are real high, especially with the light buckets used for small tractors...

1.25 Gallon Gasoline Can – No-Spill These cans work great and have marks for the quantity of fuel in the jug. It's easy to pour from a larger container into one. Anyway, easiest way to do it is just fill the can like you do and mix in the correct amount of oil. Use it up in a year or two, if...

You can easily measure a half gallon in a one gallon gas container. I'm curious why you're only mixing a quart at a time though? Mix up a gallon and it'll be fine for at least a year or so. If you find that you don't use it in that time, simply pour it in the nearest fuel tank (your car, lawn...

Most gas cans (actually all gas cans that I've ever seen) have measurements marked on them. Measuring the gas is easy. Measuring the oil is a little more work, but not by much. One way to do it is to use one of the pre-measured bottles that all of the major chain saw companies sell as a...

Correct. You'll need to verify, of course, but more than likely they both have .325 pitch sprockets.

Doesn't matter, as long as the pitch is the same.

Swap the bars and chains and see if the problem follows. It's possible you've got a bowed bar or that the guide rails are spread a bit. Also, throw the green label chains in the garbage and get yellow label.

Yes, they should. Read my response to @hayden above. I made it crystal clear that I am not suggesting that people not be "permitted" to take out loans for toys. Correct. The banks only care about making money. The fact that a bank can make money off of the transaction does not make that...

Read my post again. I'll quote it here and emphasize the part you seem to have missed. There is a vast difference between thinking something is a bad idea in which people shouldn't engage and thinking that the government should prohibit that activity.

Because folks shouldn't take out loans for toys and banks shouldn't loan money for toys. And before we go any farther with this, I want it to be very clear that I'm not suggesting that there should be a government prohibition on such things.

Or there were more dollars than eggs. ;)

It should not even be possible to get a loan for a recreational fishing boat.

Can't post photos at this time unfortunately, as the crane is buried under several feet of snow at the moment. It's essentially the same thing as the truck mounted crane in the link that I posted. The tripod that you're talking about could easily be made to lift the weight. The problem would be...

To each their own. The vast majority of folks who buy small tractors to "maintain" their land don't actually need to do most of that "maintenance". When they do, they can almost always find used equipment to do the job, or hire it done for far less than the payment on a new machine would cost...

I don't speak Italian, so not 100% sure what the goal is here, but I'll give it a shot. If I was going to build a tripod similar to the ones pictured above that was capable of supporting 500 Kg. (roughly 1100 lbs., for us American savages still using the Imperial system), I would use 2" x 3" x...

Exactly. (y)

You can pull start an electronically injected automobile, as long as it has a manual transmission. I don't think it's the injection system that would make it not work on a tractor. You can pull start a gas or diesel automobile. Diesels can be more challenging, just as they're more challenging...

To my way of thinking, it's insane for a first time non-business tractor buyer to even consider buying new. They shouldn't be taking a loan out for any machine unless it's going to pay for itself.

He said "truck toolbox" so, I'll wager it isn't for a car. ;)

I have. I find that it makes it more difficult to be precise, since the auger tip can't guide the rest of the auger. I'm primarily drilling holes for post frame buildings though, where precision matters a lot. For a fence, it's less of an issue.

The challenge you'll have is making it sturdy enough to stand up to normal wear and tear. You could bolt it to the fenders, and it'd probably help somewhat in a rollover, but in the mean time, you're more likely to end up tearing up your fenders when the roll bar catches on overhanging branches...

Have you actually tried doing this?

The pressure isn't so much the issue as the flow, and that isn't all that big of a deal for an auger, especially for the small number of holes you're talking about. Just means the auger will turn slower.

Most of the jobs that I do are post frames. I either use steel brackets from a company called Perma Column or a build the brackets my self out of 1/4"x5" flat bar. There are two different kinds of brackets, wet set and dry set. The wet set brackets have four sections of rebar protruding from the...

I'm confused about the bearing. Aren't those pulleys driven by the shaft? Is the Makita shaft too large or too small? It it's too large, perhaps you could get one of the pulleys machined to fit?

@M59 said it well. I'll just also point out that we're talking about enough holes for a "small" pole barn. I don't know exactly what that means, but I'm going to assume that it's perhaps 32x32 or so, at most. A 32x32 post frame with posts 8' OC has 16 posts, not including any extras for doors...

No. I was suggesting that the OP rent the auger and run it with his tractor. That requires that his tractor have a loader, remotes, and SSQA. If not, that obviously changes things. Quite a lot of compact tractors have those things these days though so....... I asked him about it earlier in this...

Being willing to do manual labor in order to save money is admirable, to be sure, and something that most Americans should engage in more. Just for information's sake though, in my area a hydraulic skid steer auger rents for $165+tax/day. If the ground conditions are as the OP described, he can...

Of course. If it takes 8 hours of actual machine time to drill enough holes for a "small" pole barn, something has gone catastrophically wrong. Anyway, I'm talking about the OP renting an auger and running it with his tractor. The 8 hour thing doesn't apply to attachments, as the rental place...

Exactly. The thing that sort of throws a monkey wrench into this is that we have two potential pivot points for the teeter totter, the front axle or the rear. If we've got enough weight in the loader to take weight off the rear axle, (thereby transferring that load to the front) and we want to...

If your tractor has front remotes and quick attach, you can run the auger yourself. No need for a skid steer. @newbury, mentioned the learning curve taking time, and he's right, it does, but it's not that long if you're even semi competent at operating your tractor. Depending on what you meant...

Depends on the filter. Most are designed to be on the pressure side of the pump.

Kubota uses the SSQA system because it's become so common. It's wasn't originally Kubota's system. Pretty sure it was Bobcat who invented it. I've never used one, but I think the "Global" system would be better. Unfortunately, it is what it is now. If you're in the US or Canada and want to be...

The guy in that thread seems to be implying that the "pucker moment" was the rear wheel coming off the ground. Is that correct? I mean, that's not ideal, obviously, but it's something that anyone who has done much heavy loader work has experienced. I wouldn't even be able to begin to count the...

Probably missing the fact that concrete is going to cost him at least $7-10/sq. ft. Unless he's a concrete contractor (and given the question he's asking, it's a fair bet that he isn't) it's going to cost him far more to have concrete poured than it would to put down this plastic grid. I'm not...

Most of the collapse issues in our area are due to poor roof design, rather than posts. When it is posts, it's often because they rot off at the base. The days of putting wood in the ground for buildings should be past us in my opinion. The old, toxic treatment methods are no longer permitted...

Definitely wouldn't work for heavy truck traffic or if you were pushing snow off of it very often. It also is not going to prevent potholes from forming, and if they do, it will make them more difficult to repair.

True..... Drilling enough holes for a "small pole barn" in fairly rock free soil takes less than an hour with a hydraulic auger.

Rent a skid steer with an auger instead, or, if your tractor has a loader and remotes, just rent the auger. They are far superior.

The thing about counter weights is that they don't lower the load on the front axle until you get enough weight on them that you're pivoting on the rear axle and actually lifting the front wheels. You can actually increase the weight on the front axle even more if you have a counter weight and...

I'd get the tractor warmed up (block heater, if it has one and tarp it and aim a torpedo heater under there), change the fluid and then go from there.

Thanks for posting. This will be a good thread to post for folks asking about increasing their front loader capacity. Messicks did a video a while back addressing the issue of factory loader capacity being higher than front axle capacity. You might want to consider a log arch for hauling logs...

I'm not sure if something is getting lost in translation or what. Don't just take the wire off and drive it. You need to actually get the chains installed properly BEFORE driving the tractor.

Ok. Now cut the wire off and finish installing the chains. Everything attached and tight, hooks on the inside, latch hook/cam hook on the outside, tensioners in place.

Which video? When you say that you put them on like they did in the video, do you mean that you got them onto the tires the way that they did or that you actually installed them (all hooks attached and tensioners in place) the way that they did. You have the cross links facing the right way, so...

It's all fake. Welcome to our new world, where you can't believe anything you see. Isn't technological "advancement" great?

You don't need to start a new thread each time you've changed something, just FYI. As I said before, you need to get the chains installed properly before you go cutting anything. Those are not installed properly. You should not be using tie wire for holding anything together on tire chains. Did...

The title had me excited for a minute. That's a mini skid steer. This is a skidder. It's common around here to mount snow plows on them for plowing logging roads.

Tough to tell without being there. It's normal to have to cut new chains to fit.

The manufacturer probably doesn't stock it because it's easily replaced. It doesn't matter that the retention type be the same. If you're having problems with the brush taking your pins, which is certainly possibly on a grapple, you can replace them with a grade 8 bolt and nylock.

The chain hooks in the picture on the right get attached to the chains in the picture on the left to form another diamond. They do not get layed on top, or form a double layer. To secure those hooks, figure out which link in the loose ends on the other side they will fit best with the chains...

Yes it has, and again, they can't keep doing that forever. Eventually, either the truck is no longer a pickup sized vehicle, or they reach the maximum that a vehicle of that size can tow. Are you suggesting that they can keep raising tow rating indefinitely? So some day, we'll have half ton...

Ok. While interesting, that isn't really relevant. We're talking about light trucks, under 19,000 GVW.

He's talking about 2 AWG THHN. Gonna be pretty tough getting that wrapped around the terminals on an outlet. ;)

I'm not following. What is an APU?

Certainly lots of pickups that have towed more than they're rated for. Believe me, I've done plenty. The fact remains, however, that manufacturers cannot keep increasing tow ratings with each new generation indefinitely. At some point, they'll have reached (or exceeded) the maximum that a...

Eventually they're going to have to stop doing that. You can only make a light truck capable of towing so much. The ratings already exceed the legitimate capabilities of the trucks in some cases. I have no experience with the newer Dodge's, but the new F150's are definitely rated to tow more...

Hopefully. I directed him to a bunch of videos on Youtube. Plenty of tutorials on there, and it's something that is better explained visually, I think.

The OP started another thread on the subject, here Loaded tires psi. He isn't understanding how the fasteners are supposed to work. Here's a picture of what he's got going on. He's got the "cam" type hook attached as if it's just like the hook on the non-cam side and then wired together. I...

Tractor tire chains are heavier and the tires have deeper tread to snag on.

The hook that you have the wire on is installed wrong. That hook is the "cam". It's supposed to go completely through the last link in the chain and hook back onto the chain. You really need to watch some of those videos carefully. This is something that is better explained visually. New chains...

Before you cut anything, you need to fix whatever is going on here. Your cam is on all wrong and appears to be held together with some sort of twisted wire? Take an hour or so and watch some of these videos before doing anything else...

The chains come from the factory intentionally too long in order to accommodate a variety of tire sizes, wear levels and rim widths.

The problem isn't with the tire or it's air pressure. As I mentioned in your other thread, the chains need to be shortened.

You can't pull chains too tight with rubber tensioners. They'll break before the chain is too tight. You need to take some links out of that chain and probably get bigger tensioners or add length to each arm using screws links and short sections of chain. .

The hooks that are circled in green should be facing the other way, out, away from the tire.

Yup. Inside out and a bit loose.

It certainly is. 4 ft. between the wheel wells puts it into the category of full size. If a mid size could do that, it would have to be magical, like a unicorn. ;) You can still easily haul a few sheets of plywood with a small or mid size pickup though. Just leave the tailgate up.

Perhaps. Or he could hire a contractor who could do it in two days.

$60k would easily get you both (not new, obviously) If, for some reason, you had to pick just one, I would get the excavator. Putting in a driveway with a backhoe is a giant PITA, especially if we're talking about a backhoe attachment on a tractor. In rocky ground, it's impossible to do it right...

You need an excavator and a skid steer or wheel loader, not a tractor. Once the driveway is in and site prepped, they could be sold and a tractor purchased to maintain the property. What's your budget?

Here's mine. Having the mount up high allows you to get a better angle when pulling the vehicle onto the trailer. The same design could be used at any height on the verticals. Not 100% sure what you mean by "hooks over" the deck frame. If you're not confident in your welding skills, it would...

Yeah, ducting in the unconditioned space of a building is a bad idea in a climate like ours (or really any climate, IMO). I agree with several of the other posters. Ducting for a shop with a fairly open floor plan doesn't need to be at all complicated, or even exist at all. The key is to...

Trailers are not rated that way. That's a pickup thing and even with them, has essentially zero basis in any sort of reality. Do you know what the axle rating is on this trailer? "A heck of a load" can mean an extraordinarily wide range of things, depending on who you're talking to.

Keep in mind that a single horse trailer is built to carry a single horse, tack and maybe some feed, so, 1500-2000 lbs or so........

How do you get the "core" out of the hole? If it's solid rock, it would still be attached at it's base.

How are you attaching the post to that base?

A standard dirt auger will not go anywhere in the conditions you describe. I've not used a rock auger on mine yet, but I'll probably end up with one eventually. I'll be curious to hear how it works for you if you get one.

I believe that's correct. My sister-in-law used to work there. As you say though, they're basically just put together there. The parts are made elsewhere.

I agree that you get what you pay for with welders, generally speaking. My newest Lincoln machine is made in Mexico. Unfortunately, I don't think there are any welders that are made in the US any more.

Do you store your tractor indoors? If not, do you get much snow? Either one is going to prevent the charger from working when it's needed the most. There's a good reason you don't typically see solar panels mounted horizontally, especially if they're going to be used in winter.

Are you a robot?

I've never heard of a flux core or mig machine that had a "non-hot" mode for feeding wire. Not sure why they would do that. So yes, it's probably hot when "jogging" (I've not heard that term either) the wire out. For drive roller pressure, refer to page 21 of the manual provided by @JimRB and...

No, it's original. They are not all created equal though. Some are more stable than others.

The hydraulic flow thing is true. I'm not sure why they design them that way, but they won't run high flow attachments. Mine does great on side slopes. That's one of the reasons I like it so much. It'll go places where a skid steer or tractor wouldn't have a ghost of a chance and it'll be way...

Look at small wheel loaders instead. I'd take my R410 over a tracked skid steer for everything other than grading. Much smoother in rough terrain, doesn't tear up the ground, better ground clearance, more precise side to side control, far better visibility. Add tire chains and it's nearly...

I'm about 30 miles from Kellog as the crow flies (so, an hour and a half drive). You're absolutely correct. Chains are awesome in almost every type of terrain where high traction is desired. Hard, slick, solid sheets of rock is the only place where they don't shine. Just wanted to be sure that...

I live in logging country and did residential tree work for most of my life. I've used chains of all kinds, extensively, on a wide variety of different types of machines, including tractors, skidders, heavy trucks, pickup trucks and SUV's. Chains like that work great in the vast majority of...

I meant that we don't know whose equipment is being used. She did not mention a chipper. She mentioned that they are "in the South so it's saplings and Small pine trees". I'm not sure what being in the south has to do with the size of the trees, but she seems to be implying with this statement...

Are we talking about unbroken, essentially paved, with just solid rock, with no soil or loose rocks on it, or are we talking about very rocky ground, as in covered in various sizes of rocks and soil?

Bare tires at as low of a PSI as you can get away with while keeping them on the bead. You want as much rubber on that rock as possible and lowering the pressure allows the tire to conform to the rock better.

We don't know. That wasn't specified by the OP. If he is doing those things with his own, or rented, equipment, then it would certainly make sense to bid those things.

Chains aren't going to help on solid rock. In some cases they make things worse, in fact. They can't dig in and just slide around. Ice is a different story. You'll have to decide which one is more of a problem and go with that.

That makes perfect sense.....in those scenarios. We have a fourth scenario here. 4. Joe Newbie has no mower at all. The customer pays him to run theirs. It's the customer's machine. There's a decent chance he has at least some idea what it can do. I'm all for bidding jobs by the job. It's how...

I certainly get what you're saying, and I agree, in general. It's worth pointing out that renting equipment for a job is quite a bit different than simply being hired by someone to run their machine. The OP's boyfriend may very well be looking to start a "business", or, perhaps, he's someone...

I'll bet you're not using your client's mowers to do those contracts though, are you? . Correct me if I've misunderstood, but I think you may be missing the part about the person in question having no equipment. His girlfriend, who clearly has no idea what she's talking about (no offense...

If you hired someone to run one of your machines, you would pay them by the job? Around here, that sort of thing is almost always by the hour or by the piece in some unusual cases.

I would agree, except she's talking about using the client's machine to do the job. That changes everything. Given the circumstances, an hourly rate seems like it would make the most sense, for both parties, assuming the client trusts the OP's boyfriend.

Of course she is. She's pandering to her faithful constituents, just like the Texas AG and Trump are pandering to theirs. Maybe, maybe not. Americans had a lot more issues at stake in the election than a border wall. Unfortunately, we don't have the option of voting for the "perfect" (in each...

You and I both know that's not going to happen, nor would it help if she did. The root causes go further back, to the early '70's and the beginning of the "war on drugs". Prior to that, no one really thought the border needed "secured" that much. In many areas, it was wide open (in an actual...

You're letting facts get in the way of the narrative man. Cancelled! ;)

No it isn't. It'll probably slow down some, maybe quite a bit even, but not because of a wall.

Yup. Easy to go under, over or around and it's being done regularly.

I'd like to have some of that material. Looks handy to have around. The border wall is a bandaid fix. It's not gonna solve anything long term.

Yeah, those sheds are like a square tin can. They start falling apart if you raise your voice too much around them.

Ribbed metal roofing/siding. No maintenance for decades.

What brand is that?

That and period pads. Many years ago I worked at a church camp as a maintenance guy. Period pads were the worst for clogs. First thing I thought of when the OP mentioned having a "house full of college girls".

Any reason you can't do the welding first and then frame around it? Are you building a steel box, of sorts?

Not all tractors, loaders or trailers are created equal. Tough to compare without knowing what combination of those three we're comparing.

That works as long as he's doing close spaced trusses on a wall (usually 2" OC). It won't work with a post frame type building with the trusses bolted/fastened to each set of posts. I've installed up to 36 footers using the method you describe. Much wider than that and you risk breakage when the...

I built a truss boom with a similar design and use it on my Kubota R410 wheel loader. Biggest trusses yet were 40 footers on an 18 ft. wall. The difference is that my machine is built from the ground up to lift heavy from the front. Tractors aren't designed to lift things from the front. If they...

It depends what you try to lift.

He pointed out, correctly, that a thick layer of bark, left over, presumably, from a deck of logs, isn't "natural", per se. It smothers everything out underneath it and, especially in a dry, high desert environment, takes a very long time to decompose and allow the plants to come back. In a...

True. Generally if the bark is that thick, the vegetation under it is already smothered out. What about just using a back blade? Scrape the bark off, burn it and let the vegetation come back, or plant some.

They are. It's called "re-mesh" here and it's commonly used for floors and slabs of 3-6"/75-150 mm.

In a "natural" setting, the bark and branches don't get hauled away, they rot or burn in place. How big of an area are we talking about?

I've had good experiences with East Penn batteries as well. I've got two Deka (made by East Penn) batteries in my pickup that are around 7 years old. Still going strong.

It isn't legal. State law doesn't trump federal. Pretty simple really.

I was talking about pouring a formed concrete wall, not just filling block cores, but the principle is similar. The difference is that you most certainly do need to be concerned with cracking once it's cured. You're not wrong. Commercial jobs like that are under far more scrutiny than...

It's not quite that simple. When pouring a wall, for example, if the slump is too high, the concrete won't fill out the wall properly, leaving air pockets. When doing flat work, it doesn't need to flow as easily, so the slump can be higher. Again, it's not that simple. "Doing it wrong" and...

Not gonna help. You'll just lose some of your control of the blade angle. If you had float capability on the curl cylinders, that might help, but I've never heard of that being a thing. You pretty much just have to keep your hand on the loader lever and make regular, little adjustments. I've...

The blankets that the contractor has are basically two layers of tarp with an insulation layer sandwiched between. They're used regularly at temperatures much colder than what the OP is talking about.

I'd look into trading back. Loader mounted plows kinda suck on light tractors. Putting pipe on the cutting edge will help prevent the edge from digging in. It will also pack down a thin layer of snow each time you plow. When you get a thaw and then freeze, this layer becomes a nice sheet of ice.

The conditions you describe aren't an issue, especially with blankets. You should trust your concrete guy.

I've never done this but that seems like something that could be done with a skid steer auger with an adapter on it. Might have to make the adapter but it doesn't look too hard to do.

How big of a building is this and how many anchors do you need? A new anchor from Lowes is $20. It's not going to take much messing about at all to get to the point where it'd be easier and cheaper to just cut the old ones off and buy new.

IMO, that's either a robot or a person who copy and pasted their answer from one, so I'm betting not. ;)

Why are you starting a new thread on this? I assure you, it won't go any different than the last one. I'll ignore, for the moment, the whole subject of what this is hanging from and say that no, those components are not strong enough for that application. BTW, what are you going to lift with...

Got ya. All of that to say, he should get a truck. ;)

10'x10'x6" is 1.86 CY, not 4.5. I was figuring the drive sections at 4", which would be 1.25 CY.

7'x10'x4"= 58+ 80 lb bags. Sidewalk = 58 bags Assuming that "some" means at least 3? = 167 bags +5% overage Total = 298 bags That's probably going to be roughly $100-$500 more than what it would cost to have a truck come (not including your cost to haul 12 tons of concrete and to buy a mixer...

Once you're over a yard, buying concrete by the yard is quite a bit less expensive, much better quality, and almost always easier than using bags. In many cases, this is true even with only one person. It's essentially impossible to do quality flat work bigger than 5-6 ft of sidewalk using bags...

There's probably a good reason for that. It'd be cheaper and easier to build a basic bandsaw mill to do this and it'd be a proven design.

For that level of use, most just use 5 gallon jugs. It's inexpensive, easy to do and certainly less mess and hassle than trying to insert and remove a diesel covered hose into and out of the fuel tank on a pickup.

Not sure why. A frame from which to hang a 1500 lb. machine does not need to weigh even close to 500 lbs. I've rigged (to be picked by cranes, excavators, log loaders, etc.) plenty of heavy equipment, logs, building materials etc. that weigh many times that much and in none of those cases did...

Where did you see anything about hanging "over a ton"?

You might be able to replace it with a regular hydraulic hose.

A picture would help considerably.

Clamp on bucket forks would be pretty much the only option then, unless you have fabricating skills or want to hire someone who does. I would strongly encourage you not to do the clamp on forks. The capacity is going to be very low with that machine and you'll have a very good chance of bending...

Does it have standard SSQA?

With the amount of money you're considering spending on heat tape, you may be able to fix the problem. Heat tape is a bandaid fix. What is the roof pitch?

Didn't realize SK had been bought out. I've generally found that, when looking at Asian made tools, Taiwanese stuff is pretty good, Chinese is junk. There are probably exceptions that I'm not aware of though. Country of manufacture isn't always the best indication of what the quality will be...

Is this what you have? 3 Point Ballast Box Fits Category 1 Tractor Attachment - Quick Hitch Compatible - 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver - Use with sand, steel, concrete, gravel, rocks, etc. | Titan Attachments If so, if it were me, and I wanted a saw holder real fast in a pinch, I'd bore cut a slot...

With an attic truss, the top chord is the "rafter" on which the purlins or roof sheeting are fastened and the bottom chord is the floor joist for the second floor. Do a search for "attic truss" and you'll see what I mean.

You're going to want to reinforce that bucket before welding hooks on it. A piece of 1/4" or 5/16" x 3"-4" flat bar across the top would probably do it.

You have indeed.;) He has what are known as "attic trusses". The bottom chords of the trusses are engineered to also be the floor joists for the second floor living area.

Are you a real human?

Absolutely consider a deckover. Everything you describe, other than a vehicle, is far easier to load and unload from a deckover. It's challenging to find smaller ones but it's worth the search. Unless 90+% of my use is hauling vehicles and/or tracked equipment, I'll take a deck over trailer over...

In that particular case, it was a 1/2 ton pickup, towing a 14-16000 lb trailer with those Perma Columns (the concrete posts you see in the picture) loaded all the way to the front. No idea why he didn't at least put them further back. Still would have been way overloaded, but at least it would...

Ummm.You need to read the OP over again a little more carefully.

That's true, "as long as the trailer is reasonably level" being the key phrase.

It's worth noting that the reason for keeping the trailer level is to evenly distribute the weight on multiple axles. It doesn't really matter that much on a single axle trailer, other than for convenience of loading certain items.

True, although I think I've seen more newbies with the tongue way too low (usually due to way too much tongue weight) than too high. Here's a picture of one I saw in the Home Depot parking lot. He's definitely got the tongue low, that's for sure. :D

I have no idea if it's the same alternator, but on my machine, a Kubota R410 with a V1902 engine, the alternator is compatible with the alternator for a Suzuki Samurai, which is far higher output than stock. Wouldn't surprise me if it's the same mount on yours. The biggest issue may be hood...

No one is disagreeing about the need for tongue weight. @Too many Kubotas is just saying that the nose being lower doesn't automatically mean that there is sufficient or any tongue weight. It might mean that, but it also might just simply mean that the hitch is low.

Probably be less hassle to use a couple pieces of flat bar for each side.

Yeah, either she is a bot or she just copy and pasted an AI response.

Are you a real human?

I don't think he was saying that fires don't cause power outages. He was saying that power outages aren't always caused by fires.

If it were me, I'd just replace the single acting cylinder with double acting. Simpler controls that way, and a little cylinder like that isn't particularly expensive.

How short does the bucket need to be? I generally use 5 gallon buckets for that sort of thing. You can pull the tractor up on some ramps to get some more clearance if needed.

The screws holding the sending unit in appear to be accessible. Could you remove that and then take the line off of it? Should we assume that the leak is where the hose connects to the fitting on the sending unit? What are you showing us in the second picture?

Agreed. It just may be a waste of time to ask the OP questions about his/her situation.

The OP hasn't been back since the day he/she started this thread.

Hopefully that means you're working on equipment that was "maintained" by someone other than yourself?