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If you have a local hydraulic shop they can tell you whether it's practical to repair the cylinder or just replace the whole thing. I'm sure they're less expensive than Kubota.

There may be seat and PTO switches as well. Try cleaning the connectors for the safety switches. Pull them off and put them on again. You could even use a bit of contact cleaner from a spray can then work the connectors off and on a couple times. Sometimes it's the way a connector is crimped...

You cleaned the points. Did you check the gap, too? Hooking twelve volts to the coil only gets a spark by connecting and disconnecting the wire. The coil is not strictly a direct current device. It depends on the points opening and closing to make a pulsing DC. The condenser serves to damp...

I like Jerry's response. In your case starting to troubleshoot by replacing parts one after the other is the expensive way to trouble shoot. For Jerry's first step remove cables from battery. Clean battery terminals well then the cable connectors. Examine for signs of corrosion - it doesn't...

I agree with Willy but I'd go a bit deeper. Remove the connectors from the battery and clean connectors and battery terminals thoroughly. Inspect connector ends for signs of corrosion. This can extend under the insulation. Replace cables on battery and tighten securely. If you can move them...

Is there a fuel filter inside the gas tank? If you can get the engine brand and model you may find an inexpensive carburetor on eBay - I've done pretty well there. Lacking that try an eBay search using the part number you have.

I agree it's probably airflow through the radiator but when blowing or rinsing it out apply the air or water pressure from the engine side of the radiator to flush everything out the way it came in. Blowing from the front can drive dust and chaff deeper. If you have a screen in front of the...

How adept are you at wiring? When my Mitsubishi tractor switch failed to operate the glow plugs I went hunting. Not wanting to spend $75 or $80 on a switch for a tractor I opted for an automotive ignition switch. I then added a fifty amp spring loaded toggle switch to operate the glow plugs...

You will definitely need different rims.

I don't know what a small amount of response means. Usually when you depress the clutch pedal there is a certain amount of resistance for about the first inch of travel. We'll call this free play. Beyond this point you can feel the clutch begin to have more resistance. This is the point at...

I agree with Chewwy. Follow the manual's instructions exactly. They will probably give a sequence to the bleeding, not just the locations. I had a Mitsubishi tractor with three separate bleed locations. You could not skip any or shuffle the order.

I bought a Harbor Freight framing nailer fifteen or twenty years ago for some project or another. I've used it since - it's a really neat tool. If you just want a framing nailer for the one project it's probably not worth dropping a bundle of money on it. The warranty on the Harbor Freight...

You need to determine the amount of power you are allowed to have then get a gun within that range. I believe the UK has a 12 fpe or 16 joule limit while Germany only allows 6 fpe. From there you need to figure your budget. Generally fifty yards (or about 45 meters) is about the maximum...

Check the stations in your area - internet is the easy way. Use a search term like no alcohol gasoline near me. If you don't use the tractor a lot that could be a good way to go. Alcohol retains water and can corrode metal parts it contacts (fuel line, carburetor, etc.) but it can also...

Thoroughly clean the battery terminals and the cable connector ends. Examine cables for signs of corrosion which can eat the cables away inside the insulation. Replace cables on the battery tightening securely. If you can move or turn the connectors they are not tight. Follow ground cable to...

Hi, welcome to TBN. Check with a local alternator repair shop. If they can't source parts for your alternator or repair it they can probably order a new replacement.

The above suggestions are probably good. If you changed the fuel pump disconnect the output side and be sure it's actually pumping fuel. Some new pumps are defective right out of the box. That was my most recent Kohler experience.

A good starting point is monitoring the battery voltage when attempting to engage the starter. If it stays at the same point you have something keeping the starter from engaging. If it drops significantly - say below ten or so - the battery may have issues. Have it load tested. In any case...

It could be the PTO switch or it could be the solenoid itself. The switch is fairly inexpensive relatively speaking, the PTO itself not so much. My guess would be failure of the more expensive part. Trouble shoot carefully, maybe you'll be lucky and it's just the switch. If you're REALLY...

If a fitting is cross threaded it will continue to leak whether you tighten it or not. You may also further damage or crack the fitting by tightening. Whether the dealer is convenient or not I would contact them. You have a warranty, use it rather than cause damage you'll have to pay to fix.

From the description of your troubles I think it's time to arrange an appointment with the dealer or a mechanic. In any case I would not recommend ether. Its use can permanently damage an engine and require overhaul.

Check the battery voltage when trying to start. The battery can show good voltage with no load but may really go low with the draw of the starter. If you've added water and charged the battery it may be time to replace it.

Good advice above. When reconnecting battery tightness is critical. If you can move the connector by pulling the wire or manipulating the connector it's not tight. I like to add a star washer between the connector and terminal for extra bite.

I don't know Hinmoto but if it's four wheel drive you need to maintain the proper ratio between front and rear outside circumference sizes. For two wheel drive it makes no difference.

I agree with WranglerX but am not sure about the need for an AGM battery. They are better but I'm not convinced they are enough better to justify the cost. In any case I would use a maintainer in the winter not a trickle charger. Your charging system works and you use your tractor frequently...

I'd twist the wires together, solder them, and heat shrink the joint. As far as stripping that wire, I'd use a wire stripper. The proper size will cut the insulation around the conductor without cutting the conductor itself. You simply close the stripper on the wire then pull the cut...

You can get tractor hydraulic fluid in different weights. Some is just hydraulic fluid and some is intended for use in the transmission as well. What you want depends on what your tractor wants. If you have an HST transmission go by manufacturer recommendations.

Let's start easy. Buy a meter. It doesn't matter is it's a $300 Fluke or a $5 Harbor Freight. We need a starting point. When you get the meter, charge your battery. Clean the terminals real well. Clean your battery cable connectors real well, too. Inspect carefully for any corrosion going...

I had starter trouble with my Mitsubishi tractor. I took the starter to a starter shop. He could get the parts but (the Bendix) but a complete starter with a new Bendix was only a little higher. I opted for the complete starter. He ordered it and it was there a week later.

It is normal for the mower to bounce a little when the tractor is driven with it in a raised position. Rough terrain and higher speeds will increase the amount of bounce.

I'd troubleshoot the problem before throwing money at it. If your starter and solenoid are good you'll have spares and still not have a running tractor. When you turn the key do you get any voltage to the solenoid? What happens if you jump from the battery to the solenoid? Do your dash...

Check your owner's manual, that feature may be built in if you know the proper combination. My Craftsman mower simply requires me to move the ignition switch counter clockwise one click. My Cub Cadet is the same but then I must depress a button on the dash. When the red led glows I can then...

It's not a critical requirement until it's too far to get a hot enough spark to ignite the fuel. I agree with JT. Get the 12 yc and gap at 0.030.

If a diesel has air and fuel it should start when cranked. I'd start by ensuring the air path is clear. Then I'd open a fuel line before the fuel filter to ensure you have good flow out of the tank. Sometimes crud will build up and not allow enough fuel to pass. After these you are into step...

The proper way to bleed the fuel system should be shown in the owner's manual. It can vary greatly among tractor brands and models. Some require no bleeding at all while others require opening various points along the fuel path to bleed off air along the way. You may wish to check with a...

Welcome to TBN. Did you take on any water in the fuel tank? How is the fuel flow out of the tank? Crud can grow in there and block the exit of fuel. Check the flow on the input side of the fuel filter. You will probably need to bleed the fuel system again after this test. Ensure you have a...

Lowering is by gravity not pressure. Most tractors have a valve to control lowering speed. Generally the control is between the operator's feet. It is commonly a knob but may be a lever. The adjustment range can vary from no drop at all to a very rapid drop.

Your owner's manual should show the bleeding procedure. If you don't have an owner's manual you may be able to get one from Kubotausa.com or kubotabooks.com

You could try retapping the existing hole with the appropriate tap. You could use a Heli Coil to replace the threads. You could go a size larger and tap for that size if you can find the next size larger drain plug.

Are you remembering to depress the clutch?

In the past I believe all tractor tires (and other tires) had tubes. Adding a properly sized tube should not be a concern. If a tubeless tire has a slow leak it can frequently be attributed to a poor seal on the rim either due to inadequate cleaning or rust buildup.

I wish I'd known of it before I purchased Pat's Quick Hitch. With Pat's I needed a longer drive shaft for my mower and a longer top link. That one appears to need no extensions for anything.

After installing the liners you could take the block with installed liners and pistons to a machine shop to confirm proper fit. Don't forget the end gap on your rings.

If you purchase straight ethylene glycol antifreeze mix 50/50 with distilled water, not tap water. Caution, it is also sold pre mixed in which case you don't dilute at all. If you flush your system with water be sure to use distilled water. Tap water contains minerals you don't want in your...

It depends on how original you want to keep things. If you have indeed welded things together it may be possible to get replacement sockets for your fuse box. You will not be likely to get them from Kioti but Kioti doesn't make the fuse box. The internal parts will be standard. I got spares...

I agree. It sounds like a problem within the differential. The tractors I've seen normally pull on the right wheel. The differential lock adds the left wheel.

With the fan belt off try rotating the fan. Check for smoothness and ease of rotation. Try spinning the pulley on your alternator as well. You'll soon determine which is loose or hanging up.

If you've not used the option you may still be able to get a VA home loan. I was in the USAF as an aircraft crew chief (KC135A) for one hitch. Over time I have hearing loss and tinnitus. I get a small stipend for that and talking to buddies find I'm not the only one who does.

When you figure your PTO shaft length remember when the implement is raised the PTO distance decreases. You must be sure when it is raised it does not put thing into a bind.

When you turn on the key your alternator and oil pressure lights should go on - it's a bulb check. When the engine starts they should go out which shows your alternator is charging and your oil pressure is up. Try cleaning battery terminals and connectors, then tighten securely. Don't...

You may need to consult the manual or the dealer for explanations of your readouts. It sounds like a possible fuel issue. It could be water in the fuel, a bad filter, or crud in the tank where fuel exits. You may wish to consider replacing the air filter as well - no air = no fire.

A thorough cleaning may help, too. Sometimes you'll build up a carbon trail which acts as a conductor for leaky voltage. As far as your rubber tape goes you may not get much help there. Tape is generally rated for 600 volts, your ignition voltage is much higher than that. As Alex suggested...

You should torque the front loader bolts, too. It's all pretty straightforward. I found mine a wee bit loose. I bought the appropriate torque wrench so I could check my own.

Did you short the battery directly to the frame at the battery terminal or at some point in the wiring? Assuming the battery is still good (confirm this) you may have blown a fusible link.

Try to score an electrical schematic for your tractor. Some vehicles use a separate lower voltage instrument regulator for the fuel and temperature gauges. It is about five volts. If it's shorted internally that could certain cause needles to peg.

I had internet beamed to the house from a local mountain. The speed was supposed to be 3 GBpS but one became far more common as more users moved into the area. I got with the local phone company (Ziply in this case) who connected me with a DSL link. The price was about the same as my beamed...

Jeff did a remarkable job describing the process. I will add that after latching the PTO shaft onto the tractor try to pull it back off. I've found the collar on my drive line doesn't always rotate back against the spring leaving the connection not completely latched. This can allow the shaft...

They sure will be shocked if the earth keeps warming due to natural caused even without all the carbon dioxide production.

The knob under the seat only controls the speed at which the three point drops not the drop distance. Check the depth control to see if there is a stop set there. It is movable on many tractors to set how far the three point can be lowered or raised - kind of a mechanical limit. It got me the...

Whatever you use as a protectant, your may wish to invest in an easily removable seat cover for when it's just sitting in the sun.

You can find it on You Tube:

You can try taking the pump to a local hydraulic shop, they may be able to rebuild it.

Disconnect the lower hose from the engine block and leave the thermostat out. With the engine not running but your garden hose into the thermostat hole and turn on the water. This can dislodge a lot of crud. Move the hose to the lower radiator connection point and repeat. Do this a couple of...

Koyker in South Dakota manufactures a variety of loaders. You need to decide how much loader you need. I find a 1200 pound loader like their 120 works well on a 20 - 25 horsepower tractor. You may wish to go a bit larger as your tractor is a bit bigger. You might also wist to compare the...

The tractor is a year old. You may wish to see if the part is on warranty. That could save a dollar or two. You may not be able to remove the loader as Lou suggested. Many require you to be able to manipulate them with the hydraulics while you are removing them. Check the owners' manual for...

The Chevy and Volvo only muddy the water and have no bearing on the tractor problem. Try putting the voltmeter on the battery. If all is well you should see your 12.6 volts from the fully charged battery. While monitoring the voltage note what it is when you turn the key on and again when you...

I'm assuming if it lowered the mower it must have raised it first. Check your hydraulic fluid level. Do you have a loader and does it work? Have you ever cleaned the hydraulic fluid strainer? A bit more information would be helpful.

I have an old pickup that does that. If I blow air back into the tank It blows the crud out of the strainer. I'm good until it finds its way back. You could try blowing air through the fuel line into the tank and see if it runs any better or longer.

Flip the seat up and look at the pivot rod. If one end comes out of the mount that can create a problem. Check for any junk caught under the seat. That can prevent proper operation, too.

Lack of use should not hurt the PTO. Sometimes if the three point lowering valve is not adjusted from time to time it can become hard to move.

The tractors with which I'm familiar used a lever depressed with the heel to engage the differential lock. This is used to put power to both rear wheels to help eliminate one spinning alone. The 4WD lever on my tractor (Kubota L2502) is pulled up to engage then disengages by pushing back down...

Working from memory it seems there is hole on the bent over part of the washer. Are running the pin Ithrough the hole in the washer where it's bent over?

In addition to different implement ends there are various sizes for each type. Many are standard but you need to know which you seek. Drive line length varies with implement being used, too. If you have a local business dealing in agricultural drive lines that's probably a good starting...

Since you've narrowed down to the glow plug circuit you could try to determine if the controller or a relay is shorted to ground internally.

It's a Chinese shopping site with a very popular app. They get mixed reviews. Prices are good but many times stuff may be ordered and charged but never delivered. Check out some reviews before shopping there.

Do you have a stop on the control lever? Have you moved it? Many tractors have an adjustable upper and/or lower limit point on the control. You could start by checking for that.

I've not had it happen but suspect fifty amp fuses can run into money while troubleshooting. Try replacing the fuse in the circuit with a light bulb. The bulb will limit the current while showing you current is still flowing.

I got a longer top link off eBay. Have you considered using a length of chain?

Is the wheel touching the ground? Is the unit on a flat solid (preferably paved) surface? They do not move well on uneven surfaces.

I put a second (right side) grab handle on my L2501 and am very satisfied with the result. It is oem Kubota and was about $50. It's in the manuals for the larger L series Kubotas but it's identical to the left side one - other than the shape. Holes are pre drilled on the fender then covered...

I recall when I installed the inner filter alignment was interesting so I could get it in far enough to replace the air filter cover. My understanding was that it was to prevent dirt entry should the outer filter experience failure. Under normal use it should not need changed. Even so, it's...

My Mitsubishi D 2350 had three ranges selected by a lever on the left fender. If bumped (happened too often) it would end up between ranges and the tractor would not go. Check your range selectors.

I use Firefox by Mozilla and have had no issues.

It may actually BE silver. Silver is rather soft and after polishing will oxidize again fairly quickly. A jeweler may be able to identify percentage of silver though it may be fairly pure. I certainly would not waste it by attempting to use it for solder. Try to get a value first. You may...

If the pressure changes when you add oil your rings are probably shot.

You may wish to flip through Home - BoltOnHooks LLC especially the Kubota area for thoughts and options.

Instead of brand you need to determine what TYPE is compatible with your tractor. My Kubota recommends ethylene glycol antifreeze. Brand doesn't really matter so I get a name brand like Prestone which is compatible with ethylene glycol. I will not use the premix type as it's almost as...

You may find the transaxle is low on fluid. Many have a rubber filler plug on top but no place to check the fluid. so I drilled mint just below the seam and inserted a hydraulic jack plug. Now I can easily check the fluid - just fill to the plug. Mine uses regular 80/90W gear oil. The mower...

I sold my D2350 with loader for just under $3000 four years ago and was very happy to get it. Parts are indeed scarce which is why I sold it and moved to a newer Kubota.

What he said but also look carefully at what moves or may move when you depress the clutch. You may have a defective wire or a broken or intermittent contact somewhere.

Does the driveshaft going to the brush hog spin? If you manually turn the driveshaft does the brush hog spin?

Can you borrow a six foot brush hog? It's possible your existing tractor would handle it just fine. If so simply sell the five footer, buy a six and you just saved several thousand dollars.

Contact a local HVAC installation and service facility. Prices can vary wildly and generally your best prices will be from a smaller mom and pop type outfit. Some automotive AC repair shops may be able to help out as well.

Some gauges work on five volts not battery voltage. You may have a small voltage regulating device in line. A schematic diagram of the tractor would help if you can locate one.

I've never experienced the problem but from following posts on TBN I have a possible solution for you. Start the tractor and drive to a very large tree or other immovable object. Put the tractor into a high gear and attempt to move the object while holding the clutch down. Hopefully it will...

Congratulations on your acquisition. It may not win any beauty contests but it is a tractor after all. At least it's old enough it can be worked on by the owner.

Charge the battery. Clean terminals and connectors including frame ground. Reinstall cables and tighten securely. If it still goes to clicking replace the battery. If it's the original it's probably ten to fifteen years old.

If your tractor has the HST transmission stick with Kubota hydraulic fluid. I think it's their SUDT2. The HST can be picky about fluids.

It does sound like a low battery or dirty terminal issue. Charge the battery, with a full charge connect a voltmeter to the battery. It should be over twelve volts. While monitoring voltage have someone go through the start procedure. If the battery drops below ten volts or so a replacement...

Don't use starting fluid with a diesel. Make sure your air path is clear from the intake to the manifold paying attention to the air cleaner itself. Bleed any air out of the lines. Air in the lines can prevent fuel from getting to the cylinders. Fix or replace the glow plug switch. Most...

You could also take the pump to an actual diesel repair shop to be checked out - you know, the kind that works on semi trucks. The local one rebuilt the injectors on my Mitsubishi D2350. Good luck.

Many ignition switches have one or two letter identifiers by each terminal telling what the terminal is for. The letters may make no sense to you but they tend to have the same meaning universally. Compare them between the two switches. That may answer your question. If that doesn't do it...

If the prior owner used beet juice it should not be corrosive. Calcium chloride has been used extensively in the past and it is corrosive. Do you really know what fluid was used?

I don't know your tractor but on many levers they pivot on a bolt or are retained with a nut. If it becomes loose you may not have the necessary friction to hold things in place. You could start there.

Were things working before you drained the fluid? Did you check the strainer or filter for crud build up which would block fluid flow to the pump? I do hope you refilled the fluid to the proper level.

The sidewall of the tire usually gives the maximum load the tire can support and the maximum pressure which would be used to carry that load. It is not recommended that you exceed the maximum pressure. You may wish to run at or near the maximum to make steering a bit easier.

One side of the coil appears to connect to terminal 19. Current the flows through the coil and the other end ties to terminal 17 which also goes to the glow plugs. The current flows through the glow plugs to ground. The coil, besides being an indicator, acts as a voltage drop and current...

I suspect it depends on the brand and whether the vendor is still around and the identifying label is still attached and legible. I had a lawn tool from Fiskars. It broke on the second or third use. They shipped a replacement to my home at no charge and very quickly. That was the only lawn...

Check the lever on the three point. If it's in the full up position your hydraulic system may be in bypass mode. Pull it a little off of full up. If that solves the problem you need an adjustment on your rock shaft.

If you don't mind the existing truck and you're only using it as "farm truck" check the mileage and age and go from there. My "new" truck is a 2010 Ram with 180,000 miles on it. It used to be a road truck and it did make it from WA to So CA and back in 2021. I have a 1969 F100 that still runs...

Gravity pulls the three point down. The rate of descent is controlled by a valve which is usually located below and slightly behind the operator's feet. If you open the valve the three point should bo down, the valve controls how fast or whether it just stays up.

How difficult is it to depress the clutch? You should have about an inch of pedal before you start to feel the resistance of the clutch activating. If you have too much free play the clutch won't do its job. Check any linkages to see if something has slipped or become disconnected. If it's...

Since it stopped in the course of operation I'd probably start by checking the seat safety switch.

Back in the day 220 volt appliances - stoves, dryers, etc. generally had a light and / or an electrical outlet. These appliances were connected to a three wire plug. Ground and neutral were tied together at the panel. For these appliances the two hot wires provided 220 volt power and one of...

Have you got stuff stored in it? Does it have a floor? If there''s a floor remove everything from the shed before jacking. How it's jacked may twist it at an angle. If you can raise it you can block it or pour a concrete footer to let it sit on.

Normally it's moving the three point control to the fully up position that puts the hydraulics into bypass mode. I believe the fix is normally to adjust the rock shaft.

Try turning on the key then depressing the forward or reverse pedal. That may do the trick.

If you're running winter diesel in the summer you'll get a little less work per gallon but it's quite usable as the seasons switch. Winter diesel is used in cold weather to prevent the fuel from gelling. You can put an additive in your summer diesel as winter approaches to turn it into winter...

I don't know how warm is pretty warm - ninety degrees? Your glow plugs may or may not be good. You need to see if they're actually getting power. I believe you turn the ignition key counter clockwise to power them. They should see about ten volts. If they see nothing you may have a...

I believe Bill is deceased. What exactly is no pedal when pushing the clutch? Does that mean the pedal has no resistance or will not move at all? If it has no resistance check to see if something in the linkage popped out or became disconnected.

Be sure your air cleaner element is clean and you have a clear airway to the intake manifold.

The problem seems to be in the manufacture of the batteries themselves. For awhile Samsung had a problem with their phones burning in people's pockets. My phone lives in a belt pouch and my car is in a detached carport.

I believe in Echo strongly enough that I'm on my second one. They use a standard chain so replacement is never a problem. They start easily. I do prefer to run non ethanol gas in mine. I will also run it until the tank is empty or pour out the fuel then try to start it to make sure there's...

Take your starter to a local starter / alternator repair shop. They can probably identify and cross reference it. I had a Mitsubishi D2350. My local shop sourced one for me (made in Mexico) for a very reasonable price. It bolted right in and worked great. It seems he had just ordered the...

In addition to all the negatives mentioned there's also the possibility of breaking a front spindle when a loader is added. The problem is common with older Mitsubishi and Satoh tractors. They were not designed with a loader in mind.

I never thought about it - apparently it's not a common spark plug size. Home Depot sells individual sockets. Get a 7/8" deep well socket, preferably six point. They are available in 1/2" or 3/8" drive. Search Results for 7/8 deep socket at The Home Depot

A component called the rockshaft can be adjusted to prevent over travel. Some tractors even have a stop on the control itself you can set to limit how far up and down it goes. As far as the drifting down that is probably a leaky seal within the three point lift itself.

I'd start the troubleshooting process by disconnecting your existing gauge and connecting another oil pressure gauge to confirm the reading is correct. You might also check your schematic to see how oil pressure is measured. You could have a bad transducer, gauge, or an incorrect instrument...

If it was mine I'd probably filter it and use it. That's a LOT of fuel to use for just starting fires to burn brush. If it's that new it's probably even the low sulfur kind.

I'm not familiar with your linkage but if you can reduce the free play to less than an inch of free movement of the pedal and the clutch still seems not to work it's possible the linkage has slipped off somewhere or is broken or bent somewhere along the line - either internal or external. The...

Start by checking fuel level in tank. Make sure it flows freely by gravity - the filter is a good place to start. You could have crud in the tank. Bleed the fuel system per the manual - if you have one. If the pump is indeed bad it can probably be rebuilt. A local shop was able to rebuild...

Rotate the engine to the point where the timing mark indicates it should fire. Install the distributor so the rotor lines up with number one cylinder. You will need to compensate for the cut of the gears as it will rotate a bit as you put it into place. At this point you're either almost...

You might consider having the customer measure the battery or battery box then find the one with the mose CCA that comes in that size. Of course you'll want terminal configuration as well.

It sounds like a clutch issue. Depress your clutch pedal checking for free play, you should have about an inch before you start to feel the clutch's resistance. If the pressure is the same all the way check to see if you've dropped part of the clutch linkage. If it feels normal but just has...

Probably not on Friday or any other day unless it was completely free.

Lots of questions about my specific case. Yes, the inside door handles and lock control (mechanical) worked fine to get in and out of the car. Once I replaced the battery the driver's side door did again unlock with the key. I regularly use a key to unlock the door, anyhow, so when the key...

This is specific to the 2006 - 2012 Ford Fusion but probably others. I could not get into the car, button would not unlock it. The physical key in the driver door did nothing. How does one get in? The trunk has an actual mechanical lock. The back seat release is in the trunk. One must...

I have no idea when or if they treat diesel in my area (eastern Washington). I just platy it safe and start treating diesel when the temperatures approach freezing. I've not had any problems with that approach.

Personally I go for simple over complex. The turbo adds a degree of complexity and more things to break.

Have you satisfied all the saafety switches? You should be in the operator seat, PTO disengaged, clutch depressed, and possibly in neutral.

Measure your battery box length and width. Determine the available height. Make a drawing (basic two dimensional rectangle) of the space and where the positive and negative terminals should be in relation to your cables. Identify positive and negative. Now take the dimensions and your...

After working on the fuel system did you follow the manual steps for bleeding off the air?

Go shopping for a property that already has a well.

If the nuts don't fit they're obviously not the same as the originals. Return them and try again, perhaps elsewhere. Have you checked eBay?

You don't mention how many hours are on the engine. Is there any pressure in the breather? You could have rings or valves not sealing well allowing the bypass of some combustion products. A sticky ring can do the same thing.

Does your factory top link work with all your attachments? That's the length to get. I added Pat's Quick Hitch to my tractor then needed a longer top link and a longer PTO shaft for my mower.

I have a well with check valves to hold water in the pipe. There is a pressure switch to control the pump. I have two eighty gallon bladder tanks (my choice) on a T off the system. Once or twice a year I drain the system completely to remove all system pressure then check pressure in the...

If you've not done so, check the air filter and the air path to the engine intake. Sitting that long mice could have nested in there blocking air flow or the filter could be clogged with dirt.

Shoot an email to NGK. They'll recommend the correct glow plug for your tractor. The got the correct one for an old Mitsubishi tractor I got with incorrect glow plugs.

Be sure the PTO is disengaged and clutch is depressed.

I only shoot target and don't put the batteries in my scopes with illuminated cross hairs. They are normal scopes if you leave the reticle power turned off.

If it has worked okay before I see no reason it would not continue to work. If you find things bogging down slow your forward motion a bit if possible while maintaining RPM for PTO speed. I think a five foot mower would be more appropriate for that tractor but if it can handle the six foot one...

If you have a starter - generator repair shop nearby they may be able to offer suggestions. My local shop was even able to source a replacement starter at a very good price. My Bendix had failed and the starter with Bendix was only about $50 more than just the Bendix. This was for a gray...

The tractor should run fine without the indicator lamps but you won't know if you lose oil pressure or the alternator quits if the circuit isn't operative. It sounds as though you have a shorted wire somewhere on that circuit. The insulation could be worn through at some point either from...

If you locate one you may need the associated tachometer. I think it counts pulses which would depend on the alternator speed. Of course the alternator speed is governed by its pulley and you need the correct ratio between the main pulley and the alternator pulley. You may need to do a bit of...

Generally the line plumbed at the house is 3/4". If you're running pressure tanks their opening is usually 1 1/4". I run 3/4" PVC from the pressure tanks to the house.

How did you test the glow plugs? Sometimes they will short out rather than going open. Did you check the voltage at the plug when energizing it or just assume voltage was getting there because of your switch position? How many volts are actually being applied to the glow plugs? Your...

It is my understanding that "back in the day" many ignition coils were designed for six volts even after the automotive world switched to twelve volts in the fifties. The ballast resistor was used in the coil primary circuit to limit it to six volts. If you have a twelve volt coil you should...

I'm sorry, I didn't know the 40 came in anything but two cylinder. It's the old "Johnny Popper".

The click type can indeed go out of spec. For that reason you should set it back to zero after use to prevent stretching the spring. I got a Craftsman at Lowe's for the lug nuts on my tractor. If you're worried about batteries and going out of spec you could look into an old fashioned...

I check my oil before I start - engine cold. I've never had reason to check it hot.. I check it again the next morning and it's fine. The only time I've noted an increase in cold oil level was connected to a similar lowering of my hydraulic fluid level - bypassing the pump shaft seal.

Is it the motor itself making the grinding noise or something else? The starter motor itself is usually next to the oil pan at the rear of the engine. You should disconnect the battery before messing with it. If you have to ask location of the starter I respectfully recommend you enlist the...

There is a significant difference between current draw for single phase versus three phase as well as for 240 volt versus 120 volt. Just remember you are feeding the freq drive from a single phase source and calculate your breaker accordingly.

Check battery voltage with the key on so you have some load. It should read about 12.6 volts. If that's good try cleaning and tightening terminals. Don't forget the frame ground. Do you have a main fuse, circuit breaker, or fusible link?

He will be missed. He was a fantastic asset to the Mitsubishi and Satoh owners as well as being a true gentleman.

Well, you could call Bill again but I'm unsure how the lowering valve works. There is a lever or knob (usually on the floor between operator's feet) which controls lowering speed. If it's all the way open it MAY prevent raising the three point. Just a thought.

Brass would work, it won't spark. Many fuel and hydraulic parts are brass or bronze. In any case if it works it's worlds ahead of plastic in my mind.

I think you did okay with your deal. The biggest problem with older gray market tractors is scoring parts. Most are commonly available but some are not. You can get some help from Valley Power. I've also found some new parts on eBay. I had a Mitsubishi D2350.

You could check in with a local hydraulic shop. They can probably get the seals for far less than your dealer and the rebuild itself may be surprisingly affordable.

I've had good luck in the past sourcing parts on eBay.

Any automotive battery vendor can help you out, you can even try Walmart. Put in the biggest battery that will fit and pay attention to the battery terminal locations so your cables will reach.

Do you have glow plugs? Are they getting power? Are they still good?

I had a Mitsubishi D2350 and removal of the screen meant all the hydraulic fluid came out with it. There was a plate on the right side of the tractor frame /reservoir held by four bolts. This was below the driver's seat. Check with Valley Power, you may even score a manual.

I could see it replacing part of the gas in a two stroke mix but not poured into the tank. I've used it in a couple four stroke engines with good results. If I can get an engine to start so it can pull some of the Sea Foam I can then kill the engine and let it sit overnight. It may be fine...

If you have the valve cover off watch the rocker arms. When neither is attempting to open a valve you're about there. Go for the point when the rockers are furthest from the valves and set your lash. That's how I do it with a four cylinder engine and it seems to work for me.

You should probably check your operator manual or check in with the local dealer.

Mice like the headlight wires in my Charger. I put a small box of D-Con behind each headlight. Problem solved, at least until D-Con is all gone.

I'm with Lou. See what acceptable oil viscosities for your tractor. If you're running 15W-40 and 5W-40 is an acceptable substitute try that. It starts out at the thinner viscosity but as the tractor warms the oil becomes 40.

If your tank is water logged it will add no more capacity to the system than an old hot water heater. When the bladder goes the tank is useless as a pressure tank. You may also get bad tastes in your water from the metal in the tank reacting to whatever hardness is in the well water. I know -...

For the first oil change the filters may be painted along with the tractor. You may need to cut around the edge with a sharp knife so the paint isn't holding the filter. To remove filters I just use a plumbing type strap wrench. Mine is by Rigid but the Harbor Freight ones will do the job...

The size of the lawn being mowed would affect the recommendation.

It does indeed sound like a safety switch. The PTO must be disengaged, an operator sitting on the seat, and the clutch depressed. It may also need to be in neutral. As far as physical switch locations, I haven't a clue on your tractor.

Whatever you do for maintenance I recommend draining the tank and running it until the carburetor is empty before putting it away for any extended period - say over a month.

The tilt on your loader will probably continue to stick regardless of the fluid age. You may wish to run the tractor long enough to warm the hydraulics just to help the fluid flow out. If your container has not been opened it is highly unlikely to have any water in it. Oil and water don't mix...

I'd look for the biggest battery with the greatest number of amp hours that will fit into the designated space. As Lou said make sure the terminals are in the correct locations.

I have no idea how your tractor is wired. My L2501 worklight connector is powered through the ignition switch. Yes, I have a separate fuse marked Work Light. I suspect power comes from the switch to the fuse panel then separates out via the various fuses. Since your fuse is good I suggest...

If you can stand the commercials you can try Spotify. Otherwise you can try downloading individual tunes to your MP3 player then putting it on shuffle.

Could you adapt an after market shift boot for a floor shift automobile transmission?

Your local building department will be able to tell you how it should be done. Someone who builds pole barns can probably suggest appropriate dimensions to maximize the use of materials, like the most effective dimensions near your proposed wishes. The standard here is 6 X 6 posts. You drill...

I'm sure it's possible, I used to start the old Farmall that way. I was young and didn't even know tractors HAD electric starters until after I was married. As stated above, you CAN break a wrist that way. Be sure your timing is correct. Of course you could also push start the tractor.

I brought eighteen thou home to pay the contractor for my driveway. I paid cash for my pickup. If you want cash that should be no problem - if you trust your buyer.

I had the D2350 and it sounds like a completely different tractor from yours. I did replace a hydraulic pump due to leaking into the crankcase. If you check with Valley Power you can get more information and perhaps even a manual - I did.

The type dirt you're digging will come into play as well. I live in an old lake bed - 14,000 years ago at the end of the Ice Age my place was submerged. There are virtually no rocks and the digging is pretty easy. Trenchers work well here for burying pipes here, too.

Who provides the conduit? What type cable goes into it? If it's just RG-6 drop cable two inch conduit is gross overkill. When I did cable that's what we used for the main feed or hard line. Have you thought about how they'll get the cable into the conduit? Usually a piece of twine will need...

Tractor Data can help: TractorData.com Ferguson TO-20 tractor information

By all means check in with a starter - generator repair place. They can possible even guide you to a starter intended for twelve volts but the proper physical fit for your tractor. You may need a different ignition coil or ballast resistor as well to reduce point burning.

I've got enough invested in my tractor I stick with Kubota filters. If you have to order filters try Messick's. They sell genuine Kubota parts.

I would flush the radiator and block with garden hose pressure. Run water in through one line until it's clean coming out the other. Now flush it the other direction. You can repeat this a couple times if needed. Put it back together and fill with distilled water. Run until warm to be sure...

Had I waited a couple years I could have saved money and had the edge protectors match my tractor (orange). As it was I ordered two Edge Tamers (red) and paid a bit more. These appear to be a great value though the material may not be as thick - I've got nothing to compare.

If you're fishing with a magnet on a string it probably won't work as you've learned. You may pull it off if you attach your magnet to a somewhat stiff wire. The piece will not be in the oil pan as the flywheel is outside the oil pan behind the rear seal.