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Sure sounds like water has collected and there is ice.. but we'd sure like to hear back from you as to what your learn and do to fix it. Hopefully the lock is not due to a busted gear or casting. :eek:(n)

Broken rings? Valve stem problem? Firing on all cylinders?

IBM Welcome to TBN Suggest you explain your problem, if you want help. Give us some history of the GX345 under your care, and also history of what led up to this problem, if anything. History of oil/filter changes etc. Members here will try to help you with a solution, but will need good...

Me thinks your tire shop is full of it. Wanting to sell you something else. Find a second opinion (which you are getting here) and find a different tire shop. They likely believe they are right, but doesn't fit with my experience. Original tires on my '98 tractor and filled, but no splitting or...

I see chains as removing the ice/snow as the tire slips so the rest of the tire gets traction. Some think of them as riding on the ice/snow and getting traction that way. Different objectives.

Calling my chains 5-link chains? Didn't know that distinction between chains, but now see what you mean by 5-link. Has not presented a problem. Benefit might be they are lighter to carry and lay onto the tire, as well as pick up and hang on the wall. Win win for this old man. ;);)

gpjones76 Welcome to TBN. You might send a PM to the members that might know that answer. Otherwise they may not "see" your question. Member dls790 was last active May 2014, so been close to 10 years. Maybe someone else will respond if you give a bit of up-to-date info of your problem, beyond...

The fresh break in the casting will show rust very quick (couple hours) if sitting out in the wet weather. Maybe had set there for days before the dealer took pics to post in the ad. Just a thought. Being that the dealer has this ad to get rid of it, I would not be surprised if Deere hasn't...

The image looks like the tractor has been moved.. full snow pack in the first pic, not in the others (grass underneath and not driveway). No oil spill on the first pic. Some abuse that was beyond normal use, but hope insurance (maybe dealer financing handled that) was available. Would be a good...

My 4x2 '98 gator has never failed to fire right off. But it never sits for more than a two-week period before getting some use. Never has had ethanol fuel in it either, so I suspect that is a big possible problem. The TM1518 is the service tech manual of May '05 that I have. There are 45 pages...

You have more patience than I have.

A quote from something else I just read on a different forum. No idea if it is similar, but just another "thought" to ponder.

New member Apseydeere Maybe it would be polite to tell about your brake failure and what is up with your gathering of information ?? What is a "front brake" bellcrank?

Do you have an inline fuel filter that is directional, as some are? An arrow on the filter for direction of fuel flow. ??

First thing I jumper'd on my 4300 back in '98 was the seat switch. Mine is HST tranny but getting on/off on the left side with the step has little or no risk bumping something. If on a slope, will set the parking brake, but with forks in use and bucket on the FEL, driving seated just doesn't...

PTO possibly engaged, or switch bad?

Glad you found the problem, which a 1,000 buck part is cheaper than what it could have been. So, weigh that into your decision, but a shot at your bushing idea certainly seems worth making the effort.

Fabrication looks great. Would you share the procedure and tools you used to make the build? In your own shop?

Thanks, she's a beauty. May be it is something simple, but I'd think worth a look-see into the top of the tranny for anything obvious. Then try to assess any wear that can be fixed without opening up the tranny. For only the cost of the cover gasket, you can check out how the forks slide the...

50 year old tractor, and may have some transmission shifting or gear wear that needs to be addressed. Here is a link to JD parts that shows what the shifting forks look like and the cover plate to inspect...

LynwoodG Welcome to TBN A bit more description of problem, and sounds like dead battery, poor cable to battery connection, and maybe pedals not in neutral position. What is recent history, such as when it ran last, and how long has it been that it has not started, or cranked over? Battery...

?? Can you post a pic of that, if we are talking about the tilt cylinders without the bucket attached? They both should extend together and retract together.

Welcome to TBN The leaking under the rockshaft cover sounds familiar from reading other posts. Hang tight, as more expert help will be forthcoming.

rmonio Meaning the cylinders were not synched? They have a rod connecting both that keeps them in synch, unless the bolt has been sheared off. (see reply #2)

grizz Welcome to TBN Follow the neutral lever to see where it's movement disconnects a switch. Go to this link to JD parts and you will see two schematics for two of the 5085e tractors. Should help you locate the part # M132725 shown...

Curious what more alternator will do for you. Hope you take us along on the addition of the Hitachi.

Thinking foam filled and RimGuard are two different things here. The OP said

I see no need to add weight to the front wheels. But do as you wish.

I get along just fine with the JD replacement battery from my Deere dealer. But whatever trips your trigger.

Did you buy it used? If so, do you know when the last tranny oil change happened?

Then sounds like running in too high of gear selection, maybe Hi and should be in Lo. Or have you already done that Lo selection? Engines do lose power over the "years" due to wear and tear. A compression check on the three cylinders may lead you to the need for some engine work. Read recently...

How cold is it? And how long do you hesitate between forward and pushing the reverse pedal? And have you looked at snow packed in around the pedal linkages? Down side to using a snow blower is all the drifting snow that comes down on the equipment, which is warm and causes the drifting snow to...

Have you looked at the rockshaft linkage adjustment? That is what needed adjusting when my 4300 did the same thing. Just a thought.

Is your 855 a hydrostatic transmission?

Yes Dave. Get the R4's that go with those on the rear.

Never been a problem in the last 25 years using these chains. Appreciate your concern tho.

That doesn't happen. The next cross link doesn't so you don't just sit somewhere and spin. ;);)

The snow we have recently accumulated was wet and about 10", so after several years escaping the need for throwing on the tire chains, yesterday was the day. Went on easy and made a world of difference as the wet snow left a layer of ice that didn't provide good traction. Another 8-10" coming...

Here is a video that shows that wire lock ring in the older JD cylinders. And another And another And another And another (hope the OP doesn't have that lock wire, but if so, these should help for understanding.

There are several YouTube videos showing JD cylinder repair, but I failed to find one I've viewed before that shows the lock ring needing to be removed. This one linked here is one from a JD 430 FEL and may be close to what the OP has to work with. I watched several videos that were not well...

This link to jd parts fit with your cylinder ? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/80717/referrer/navigation/pgId/14390972 See that there is a seal kit available for repair. The ring (wire lock) key #11 may present a challenge removing it. Have heard that anyway.

Replace the bolt that keeps the right/left cylinders in correct timing. May be broken bolt. Also, sounds like you are not using the regen dump feature properly. Or re-set the quick hydraulic hose couplers. Sounds like one may not be properly connected. Those are just three guesses I have to offer.

Think I would go ahead and use it when needed, but carry a fire extinguisher. When not using it, then disconnect the battery. Sounds like there is an over-reaction but certainly don't want a fire risk.

Cedar Pete Welcome to TBN Tell us about your issue. What happened when the issue came up, and what is some of the history of your tractor?

I understood he wanted to update, and figured the 430 FEL style might fit, and he just needed to update his older 146 FEL. Now up to the OP which way he wants to go.

Suggest getting the forks attachment first, and then work from there. I have this for forks on my 430 FEL and like the quick attach (unlike the skid steer quick attach system). Shown in this link to jd parts...

Do you have the service tech manual for the 1070? Do you have the kit part number? This link may help, as it has pics. https://www.greentractortalk.com/threads/john-deere-870-970-1070-rear-remote-power-beyond-kit.197788/

Have you looked into doing it yourself? Or is that not a good option?

Welcome to TBN Help from the knowledgeable members will be along in due time. Sure sounds fuel related, but I'm a novice to help further. A decayed fuel line or some stray dirt would be my suspicion. Hope you get it back to the normal quick starts. Which Yanmar model engine?

TractorData help any? https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/6/61-john-deere-4010.html https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/6/64-john-deere-4020.html

Maybe the $400 seat is less than the rear window replacement? Maybe the SMV sign removed would give more room, or even trimming off some of the plastic backing on the seat. For sure don't want to put pressure on that rear window and risk breaking it.

Simply not true dieselbob69.

Miltronic Welcome to TBN Note that member CMCattle has not been active on this site since 2017. You might try sending CMCattle a PM (private message) to reach out with your question.

More pics to show the new upgrade unit in place? Sounds like a real boost in performance.

Hay Dude The question to answer is in the subject line. Was about a JD Zero Turn.

Tell us more about the problem. When did it last move? Where was the tractor parked/stored since that time? Who had access to the tractor since that time? There must be more information you can offer to help figure out an answer.

Galan27 Welcome to TBN You have some good suggestions there, that will likely solve your problem. If cleaning the connections fail, get that battery load tested as it may be giving you false information showing 12v under no load.

I fail to understand what you are trying to do, and the pictures don't help me understand. Looks like loose bolts that maybe you are trying to thread into the casting. What gives?

Might be hydrostatic tranny.

tude Thanks for the pic Don't see the hand crank in the pic, nor a way to use it with the plow lifting frame in the way. Also don't see the L (or LA) with the starter package option. But brings back good memories of the plow I had rigged up on my LA that incorporated the cultivator and mold...

https://sizesworld.com/standard-cup-holder-size/ Sold my X lawn tractor, so can't measure the size. Do you have it handy?

Welcome to TBN The manual is cheap if you are wanting to do some or all of your own work without waiting on a busy dealers shop.

What is a branded mug? Have me curious.

BooHoo BigBlue1 Blame it on the engineer... we are becoming a society of needing comfort at all times. :):):) bigtiller has a good answer. ;);)

Been 60 years since I had mine, but it had a "pocket" for storage between the frame and the engine. I recall removing it and replacing it, but don't recall what exactly was there to store it. Sorry. Envy of your L tho.

Sounds like the rockshaft linkage adjustment is not correct.

From what little I know about injection pumps, you may have dived down that rabbit hole too quickly. But hope "thepumpguysc" member will chime back in, or you can seek his advice from other threads here, as to what to do next. Hopefully the recovery is poassible, but I wouldn't count on it...

Welcome to TBN What "pump" are you talking about? The injection pump, or a different one? Put up a pic or two and good help/advice should come your way.

Welcome to TBN Let's look into the John Deere parts, and see if some part numbers line up with the conclusion someone apparently has made about interchange between the two models. For the 3010...

forgensir Welcome to TBN Some pics to support your findings would be great.

Still a good thread for TBN'rs.

ernieatv I added spacers because of added stability on sidehills. For the tire chains on my r-4 tires, I built the chains to fit the tires and they didn't drape down along the sidewalls, so no problem with the fenders on my 4300.

If you like it, that is all that really counts. Hope it works out well for you.

Yes, the green highlighted key #13 and what is connected to it. It supports the deck when the deck is lowered, at the different set heights. Post pics of what is attached and around #13 and we can answer more specifically if that is the problem. But if you expose #13, you will likely see the...

I had it happen once back in the day, where the deck height adjustor got unhooked and was above whereas it needs to be below. i.e. the deck can be raised above the "hook" and when lowered the "hook" doesn't allow it to go below the set height. It is carried on that hook. If it is put together...

So are you saying you found the problem and have it fixed now?

There is a mounting kit for the 385A backhoe shown here on JD parts https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/72276/level/2/snp/MTUyNDk0NDM6Q0hBUFRFUlsxMDYxOiNCVVNJTkVTU19SRUdJT04sMzU0MDojQ0FUQUxPRyw3MjI3NjpFUVVJUE1FTlRd

Welcome to TBN "front table" meaning the front deck? and the side table means the side deck? Left or right side deck? Some more history and a bit more description of what is happening and what help you think you need. We'll try, for sure.

The Deere dealer working in parts isn't one you can expect to be a mechanic and know how to fix your tractor. Plenty of help available here on TBN. Otherwise, the dealer is available to take your tractor in for a tech to find the problem and fix it. But from your description, you may need to...

If I recall correctly, my JD 420U had an adjustment bolt/lock nut that would change the way the steering worked. Did you see that? Key 1 and 2 in this schematic of the front column, and it sits on that top cover you removed...

Welcome to TBN The lift pedal, and maybe is over the top of the height adjusting knob system. Put up a pic showing the two, so we can address the problem. Pls confirm the size of the deck on your X320 and what is meant by "new".

Hard to steer, or something broken? Could check in the steering box at the top of the steering column. May just need oil/grease, or an adjustment to the pin, or broken pin. Jacking the front end up to free the front steering wheels might be an easy way to determine what is wrong. Any pics of...

You can tell us, when you change it out. ;);)

That part number traces to this page in JD parts. European edition https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/63601/referrer/search/pgId/232055 screen shot here. Does that fit with what you changed out?

Is your question related to the one addressing the cover plate that was leaking? Did you replace the adjustor when you replaced the seal? Does this link to a power steering rebuild help any? https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/1967-john-deere-2020-power-steering-rebuild-guide.434114/

Welcome to TBN Find a way to determine what the pressure is so you have more info. I'd suspect the seal may still be the problem. What is the part number for the seal?

Put 12v on the starter to see if that can be removed from the equation.

Welcome to TBN Can you be more specific and describe the problem in more detail? Likely an answer that will help could come from a member or two. How long has it been happening, and what else can you tell us?

Welcome to TBN Can you describe in better detail your starting steps? The detail may help us figure out either the problem or the solution.

Deere had two choices for buckets when I bought my 4300. One was a light weight snow bucket and the other a heavy duty bucket. Think your Deere bucket shown is the snow bucket. Your new one looks good.

Green farm parts https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-lift-link-lva14231/ Or maybe get the parts that you need that make up the lift link. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/81708/referrer/navigation/pgId/240215653

And your question is ?? Welcome to TBN

Welcome to TBN $1151 at Green Parts Store. $100 shipping. Looks reasonable.

Try it, should not be a problem. Can't hurt anything. Likely it is a single acting cylinder and uses the weight of the bush hog to return the cylinder and bush hog. I use a single acting cylinder to raise my snow plow blade and only use one line to the cylinder.

Welcome to TBN

Would help to see just what is worn out, that makes it loose. Then decide on a fix.. just sayin.

Prolly designed to be driven in water so sealed with no vent. Who knows ?? But it does need some venting to stop warmed oil building up pressure from being forced out through the seals. Also probably not a problem unless working long periods of time on a warm/hot day.

Can you identify which part is worn to make it sloppy, or is it maybe just loose and needs tightening? Has it missed the grease routine? Think I'd see if it could be tightened, and then just use it until too loose to tolerate any longer, then get a new one if aftermarket cannot be found.

Just venting the front axle will go a long way to protecting the seals from being blown out due to warm oil causing pressure.

Search should include the model numbers 4200, 4300, and 4400. Same axle likely, but procedure likely the same. for example: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/replacing-mfwd-spindle-seal.312633/

Good post from a vet who knows. Loved ones don't stand around and observe a dead person being prepped at the funeral home for display at the service, nor do they observe being shoved into the fiery furnace for cremation. So, likewise, should not witness the carcass being rolled into the grave...

Welcome to TBN Best I can suggest is to get a pressure gage fixed up with quick couplers to plug into your hyd. system at different points. Then track down the pressures to find (hopefully) the problem. Seems you need to know where you have pressure, how much, and where you don't have it.

Welcome to TBN Search is your friend. There have been threads on TBN that address the task you are asking about. Similar.. are you saying you found yours with gear oil as well?

To each their own, and I find no real need for a ZTR and get along great with a 54" deck on my JD 455 AWS. Trees and rolling lawn and embankments yield to the lawn tractor, IMO. Some of the 6 acres of lawn would lend itself to a ZTR, but only about 2 at most. Add to that a lawn roller, sprayer...

The pedals can get sticky without lubrication. My 4300 has the magnet that holds the forward pedal in place and works great, or has for 25 years. Don't know of anything that is "poorly" designed on the pedals. Never had a fault with mine. But I always have the tractor kept in a shed so not out...

You could try to get $3500 for it, but think could only get $2500 at best.

Tractor with a front mounted snowplow blade. Ditch the snowblower idea for that length of drive. 32hp cut would be my suggestion with a 7' blade.

As mentioned, first grade the location of the new driveway so water is drained away, with enough slope that no water is standing in the side ditches. Put a crown in the drive so the water runs off to the side.

Just push it in the hole.

That information should be available from the Nebraska tests. Drawbar pull was one of those measurements in a "standardized" way.

The LX288 schematics and parts can be viewed on JD parts at this link. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/59660

What did you do to be able to keep the dash lit up? Welcome to TBN

billandrocky Welcome to TBN Manual can be purchased for the 790. Or possibly a free copy can be found. Worth the money if you plan to work on your 790 yourself. Tell us a bit about your 790, its history, and what the problems might be. A lot of members here willing to help you out.

Welcome to TBN You might start here, at TractorData.com https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/0/1/16-john-deere-400.html

Same result if you pulled the left side spark plug wire off while running? We're (or I am) missing something here.

Some adjustment needed. Hope you can track it down.

So what happened when you had it running and pulled the spark plug wire off the right side?

Excellent trick to use that #9 wire to fold trash down into the furrow for good cover. Used it in the 50's often. Don't think we really know enough about the OP's problem. Model of MF tractor for one. Pics of the problem setup is another.

Good suggestion, providing the left tires are up on 6" blocking to simulate the right tires in the furrow. Some two-bottom plows do not have the adjustments to set the plows up for good plowing. The cheap ones do not.

Sparks from a diesel are likely hot carbon from buildup in the exhaust system. Not likely fuel, as mentioned earlier in this thread. Work it hard doing something at night and you will see what is happening.

Duz1more May not be firing on that left cylinder. Next time, get it idling and pull the spark plug wire off the right side cylinder. If the engine dies, you found the problem.

Mystery to me.

Very respectable-looking repairs. Thank you for the pics and the method used.

Please post some pics of this repair so we can see the good results that you have.

No "repair" that I am aware of. Only replace the seat. (or put a cover over it).

I have my rear tires loaded with windshield washer fluid. Works great, not quite as heavy as water per gallon, but adds weight and doesn't freeze. Also cheaper to buy 50 gal than other fluids.

Need to plug it in long enough that it helps start the tractor or find out what other problem your tractor has going on that is keeping it from starting. Not much more we can pinpoint to help you solve the problem.

I don't find JD parts "obscenely" expensive. It's a myth that gets carried along.

Okay, how many operation hours are you putting into the budget?

KennyG Thank you for your post. Have that many hours on my 4300 now, so should give that a try this winter when I can work in a warm garage. Would expect some similarity in parts to remove and appreciate your pics with the post.

Welcome to TBN It has a 3-cyl Yanmar diesel that just sips fuel. Are you having an issue? Tell us more, and maybe a better answer can come from the members here.

Ross Welcome to TBN Give us some more feedback from your experience.. may be able to help track it down. Try putting in jumpers to keep safety switches such as the seat switch closed and see if the tractor still acts the same.

Green machine looks great. Glad you like it. I'm a fan for sure, but know there are others that work well too.

TX Jim LOL, it is upside down. ;);)

Welcome to TBN But best to send a PM to Joe, not rely on seeing your question. Click his forum name and you can send a PM as well as see when last active.

Not a good way to run the cutter.. The cutter should float with the ground and cannot the way yours is apparently set up. Waiting for a pic to make any further suggestions.

I also run the cutter with rear wheel on the ground, but have chains instead of the flat bars that are loose when that tail wheel is on the ground. Flows with the ground that way, and the leading edge is adjusted with the 3ph. When 3ph is raised, then the rear wheel is lifted off the ground for...

Welcome to TBN

No better way to learn, than to give it a try with the plan proposed. All that money invested in a good tractor, leaves little to "hire" it done. At least that is how I've gone about jobs around my acres over the last 55+ years. Most of my tools and equipment are a result of tackling the jobs...

Weld grab hooks onto your quick hitch to secure and pull on the chain.

This setup works like a dream and is about as low cost as one can get without fabricating something. For extra long hauls, throw a log chain around the log using the tongs to lift the log to get the chain underneath.

Fabricate a quick hitch on the front of the tractor that will handle a 7' plow blade and toss in a wing blade for those times when the plowed snow gets too closed in to handle with the 7' plow. Remove the FEL. Takes only at most 25 minutes to switch back and forth so no problem at all. Been...

Green with yellow for me.

Have your friend look for the service tech manual for the 2020. That should help both of you track down the problem.

reloader51 hasn't been back since the OP Wed.

Would suggest getting a copy of the service tech manual.. sounds like a good tractor

Try the lower hole on the tractor end. A pic of the mower and the connection to the tractor would help with more helpful answers.

mrhomefinder Welcome to TBN Did the JD kit include the float and needle valve? Something stuck under the needle valve so it cannot shutoff the fuel flow? Not fun to think about re-doing the carb, at least wouldn't be for me.

A service tech manual would likely help you locate the reason for the solenoid on the bowl, and what it needs to do )and when it needs to do it). Do you have one? Is this the solenoid you are referring to...

Whatever, it looks like it is toast. And looks to be cross-threaded too.

Get it load tested, as likely the battery is no good. Has some voltage, but not enough to do more than "click" the solenoid.

Didn't get a reply from you in your other thread you started, but now see it is a 5045E in this new thread. Need some help ?? Suggest you just start looking for the bolts and screws that hold it all together. This link to JD parts may help you figure it out...

rni Welcome to TBN Not finding what a JD 45e tractor is, or if it exists. Any more info?

Welcome to TBN Do you have the service tech manual for the 4010?

Repurpose to a "what"?

Are you up for taking the cover off and looking at the shifter and forks? To see if anything shows up as missing or out of place?

sotocon71 Welcome to TBN This work being done by the dealer? or yourself? Do you have the service tech manual? Assume you have it, as deep as you have explained the efforts so far.

Do you think that is supposed to happen? Check in your profile to see if it is an option.

irl3r Welcome to TBN When you cracked the lines, did you get fuel at each one? Do you have the service tech manual?

??? Don't understand the question. please elaborate.

Welcome to TBN Tell us more about the problem. History of what the 3ph used to lift? Has it ever lifted the rotary cutter, or only now? How long have you had the 2305? Recent transmission oil/filter change? More information may lead to a fix to the problem.

Am pretty sure I changed out the headlights with LED's.

To whom is the question?

If the oil cooler is plugged up, then it could cause overheating as the pass-through air cannot also pass through the radiator. Do you have an infrared surface thermometer?

Put up some pics of what you have available on the model 512 loader. Apparently no frame parts at all? Getting the frame fabricated from the schematics linked in JD parts could be a consideration, but at what expense?

Welcome to TBN Might find what you are looking for at JD parts https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75489/referrer/navigation/pgId/20613226 Looks to be available. https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Frame-AW33380.html

Shortcut? check out JD parts https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/61747/referrer/navigation/pgId/2503196

Looks to be a 1958 https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/4/43-john-deere-620.html We need, or would like, a video of it running.

Deere dealer close by? Or go to JD parts and get the part # so you can order the right belt from Deere.

Now set it off on a pallet with caster wheels and just roll it around wherever "out of the way" is for the moment. Helps to have the pic to see that the FEL looks similar to others.

Go to jd parts and look up the part number. Assume this line is not on the loader or you would give us the loader model, but you can match it up here. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/57184/referrer/navigation/pgId/14390244

Dianne Welcome to TBN Post a pic or two of what is causing you the problem. (Not sure what being Labor day or small town has to do with the problem. ??) Need serial number to learn what air filter you have. You should be able to track it down on JD parts linked here...

Get the model number off the Kawasaki and search the internet for the engine manual. Should be easy to find. Post here if you want more help. Good luck finding the cause. And hope you let us know what it was.

Welcome to TBN Which model JD did you buy? Is it the x740 in your profile? Put up some photo's for us to see. We like pics. Do you know the model snowblower you want for this tractor?

There are no substitutes for genuine John Deere paint. Don't even go there and make that mistake. They all turn bluish color over time. Accept it or learn it the hard way. Your choice.

Welcome to TBN Do you have the service tech manual?

Welcome to TBN Wish you well with the desire. What stage are you at now?

Just get a Stihl (or other brand) battery operated non-telescoping pole saw. Much handier for limbs and much more useful for many other projects if you have trees and bushes around your home. Battery will outlast you, most of the time.

Match up what you have with the pumps shown in JD parts. Might be the AR78494 https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/58556/referrer/navigation/pgId/150104

My thought, have the battery load tested and clean both ends of the battery cables. Hope that one or the other solves the problem.

727a Deere Welcome to TBN Roadworthy likely correct, and the Kawasaki is only firing on one cylinder. To check that, start it and then pull one plug wire off. If the engine dies, the other cylinder is not firing. If the engine continues to sound the same, then replace that plug wire and pull of...

There is a difference between position control and draft control. Have you the operators manual for your tractor?

Think you have discovered the problem. Now good luck finding what is wrong with the repower conversion.

Not sure, but mentioning using the draft lever to lift may be the problem. Do you only have one lever, and calling it the draft lever? People have different names for things, so just asking.

Puzzled that the cause of the fuel pumps going bad hasn't been found. Do you have the service tech manual for the 425? Of several 425's I've owned, and the one I now have, not a problem with the fuel pump (knock on wood).

Star Welcome to TBN Not sure I understand, but from your #2702 pic, looks to me that the plate B needs to pivot clockwise to allow C to move into position, then plate B will hold it in place. However plate B cannot rotate with the pin or rod A in the way. Ignore if I'm off track here.

There are three bolts, just looking at the link of the parts in reply #2 Can also look at the subsequent "pages" in the parts schematics that show the transmission case as well as the transmission gears and shifter forks, etc. Lots of information there that could help. Shown again here...

Welcome to TBN Might try removing the gear shifter to see if it is worn, thus causing two gears to be locked together. Look at this parts list to get more familiar with what you are needing to look at in the tranny. May end up splitting the transmission case to solve the problem...

Just gander a look at the used prices for the off-brands, and should then understand a dealer's position not wanting a used one on their lot. True, it is disappointing, but its life.

A blade balancer is all of $8.19 on Amazon.

See one in Arkansas. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing/for-sale/225657891/1990-john-deere-7-backhoes-attachments

Will need to hear back from banditman to know for sure. TT may have it pegged correctly.

That the JD model 820 2-cyl diesel?

Should be able to go to your Deere dealer and ask them to bring up the schematic for you to look at, and usually they will print off a copy for you to take home. Or you can order your own copy of the service tech manual. Welcome to TBN

Me thinks you are chasing down the wrong rabbit hole. But sounds like you have the fix's that satisfy your equation. Good luck. I don't have a better answer for you.

https://www.wengers.com/fuel-tank-aa6480r-r.html

Added the Stihl MS261C to my other Stihl MS362 a couple years back and have no complaints or regrets at all. The MS261 is super performer and always starts and runs well.

Before chasing a switch, I'd have the "new" battery load tested. That is what it sounds like to me. So I would make sure the battery is not the culprit.

Try your JD dealer. https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-BRAKE-SHOE-M805898.html Also, M805898, M801894 Brake Shoe for John Deere 850 Tractor Welcome to TBN

Post some photos of what you are seeing. May get some helpful suggestions.