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I have tube, turn buckle and combination chains with turn buckle. Tube style wins for me. Yes you have to be careful what you are doing with the pins while hitching, that is only drawback. Threaded ones slower to adjust and often seize if you don't use them fully or often.

I can't tell from the photo, but sometimes there is a hole the size of the grease gun coupler in the shield, you have to rotate it the right way and rotate the shaft the right way and angle to line things up. Since you have blower off you have best access to look.

My mindset is older, basic stuff (mechanical pump, no DPF, DEF, dry clutch, gear drive etc) will last forever and average person won't wear it out, parts are still around for the legacy brands that are 30,40,50+ years old. Cosmetic parts etc might not common, but the mechanical stuff to keep it...

Not sure your budget and mechanical aptitude, that will influence what you want. 5k, 10k, 25k, 50k, 75k certainly provide contrast in age, size and features. New machine no issue to find, if you want used I find the local dealers do NOT have older, smaller cheap stuff any more. Central, Green...

Has a D206 German Diesel, used in many much newer IH tractors up to the 3230 in the 1990s. German built tractor, solid. I can't tell from the photos, but Agri-matic versions had a clutchless shuttle/power shift unit, that may or may not work. Regular dry clutch and 8 speed box still there.

Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a new piece with a tooth "in between 2 and 3", modify the original if you aren't fussy on originality.

No reason it won't work. I have pulled a 24 foot gooseneck stock trailer with a 350 4 barrel 4-speed C30. Job got done. New gas truck would run circles around that rig....

If the brakes will hold/stop the tractor on their own using your feet they should be ok, but sounds like they are at end of adjustment, should not require full pedal to floor to hold tractor in place. New brake material might solve it, otherwise I'd try welding up the floor board and grinding...

Fertilizer costs will kill you now. I cut way back this year because of it. I had no noticeable success with seeding an existing stand (late summer or frost seeding). The existing grass just smothered it out. Tried some disking only then seeding, harrowing only then seeding. Plowing and...

Vice grips and replace plug. It's likely at the hardware store plumbing section for a few bucks.

I helped do the ring gear on a Super A, same basic design. Think the whole job was done in less than 6 hours including flipping the ring gear over. Wide front is easier to split in my opinion, wedge the axle pivot, block rear end up and roll front away on a large floor jack. Super A was...

Need current soil test to know what you should be doing. I typically have to lime and fertilize. I have best results renewing land with this order. moldboard plow lime disk harrow fertilize spring tooth harrow seed with drill Edit: I often have to deal with rutted land so I want a level...

I'm in NS. You will be dealing with anything from 5cm flurries, 10-15cm light storm, 20-40cm winter storm or the odd 50,60 cm or more dump. Snow can be fluff, or solid packed drifts or slush. Rear mount 3pt PTO blower and front end loader with bucket (full hyd with down pressure!) is very...

I buy when on sale. #1 rule of CTC is never buy something there unless it's on sale. EDIT: #1 rule of CTC is don't let them touch your car. #2 rule isn't don't buy unless on sale.

Fully Synthetic 5W30. Same spec as your link. Canadian Tire usually has big sales on oil, it's not $17.99 regular price.

3.5 ecoboost, think it's got some fancy technology or something :-) Todays money, couple months ago actually. 5 litres full synthetic 5W30, $17.99 on sale at Canadian Tire (store that sells next to nothing made in Canada and tires that I wouldn't let their garage touch my car to install)...

Pretty well my experience as well. $130 oil change versus $30 Today: 1.57 / litre gas (4.58 USD a gallon) versus 1.82 / litre (5.31 USD a US gallon) My diesel didn't get better overall mileage my gas. If I towed all the time that might be different. Diesel fitted my "wants" Gas fitted my...

LS should be fairly common compared to McCormick or Landini. They built it and sell under their own name and colors. There are dealers in Eastern Canada if you can't find one in the US.

Agree, there should be a nut to tighten on the linkage, likely at base of the throttle level.

Factory global. Tractor pin centers are close compared to the global.

Any tractor PTO I've connected would either freely rotate when disengaged, or go 1/4 turn if engine was off. If you keep things clean and lubricated no issues. Many implements turn easy enough that you can rotate the machine by hand to line it up. Even the CV shaft on my baler has tubing that...

What I have ranges from 0 degrees to leaning forward slightly, i.e. 10-15 degrees. I have my bucket level indicator set for material bucket, it isn't accurate with the others so factory stuff does vary.

I'll have to look at my euro attachments, I want to say they are almost "0"

The two trucks I had, specs posted elsewhere on this thread, are close. I could find a F150 same year as mine that is half the tow rating as well. I won't disagree overall 250 is heavier and more capable.

F150 is 11,200 GN & BP, F250 was 12,900 GN & 10,000 BP F250 was 20,000 gcwr and was outfitted for maximum towing, manuals were still king towing when it was new. The 2001 7.3 was rated more power when manual (275) (auto 250) but 2K auto and manual were 235. F150 is max tow, only F150 with a...

Mainly because it's a closer comparison. A new diesel 3/4 ton is easily twice the truck towing compared to an old 3/4 ton diesel. A new gas 1/2 ton is twice what an old gas 1/2 ton was. New gas 1/2 ton on par with old diesel 3/4 ton capability wise. New diesel pickup pulls what used to...

Not wrong or illegal about anything. I compared my Ecoboost to my Diesel F250. I did not compare a 2022 F150 to a 2022 F250. Facts: 2000 F250 Super Duty 7.3L V8 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 6-speed Manual 3.73 axle. 235HP/500ftlb Factory bumper pull rating with WD hitch: 10,000lbs 2011 F150...

I have one of the first F150 ecoboosts, peak torque is 2500 RPM, I've never had it turning more than 3000 RPM pulling the same loads (much faster) than my diesel F250 did. Not sure what this screaming you refer to is.

Doubt any compact would have front brakes, full frame ag tractor they are available on some. https://www.deere.com/en/tractors/row-crop-tractors/row-crop-7-family/7r-350-tractor/

By mid 90s most fwa tractors that used an electrical switch to engage the front axle would also automatically engage the front axle when you pushed the brake pedals down(locked together, not split) Gave "4 wheel braking", was nice, especially for road work. Deere 6000 series for example.

30-40' Butterfly mower, 30-40 foot twin rotor rake etc I consider large here. Silage special baler with cutterhead is king. Almost everything is wrapped. I've cut 30 acres in one day with 5 disc mower. Still a day tied up regardless of size of gear. Plain mowers are trend now, prices went...

I'm running 64 PTO HP now, more than enough to run the 4x4 baler and 7 foot disc mower. The 64 is doing the exact same work the 42 PTO HP tractor did, just does it a little easier and quicker. I now also wrap majority of my bales so I am hauling and wrapping same day baled. I do not lack for...

I run beef and do hay. Budget is the biggest question. I could have a lot of stuff for a million, not so much for 10K. 30 to 40 acres of hay..that is a days work for large gear. Smaller gear that is a 3-4 day job. 40 PTO HP utility would do the whole job if needed. I put up way more hay...

Are there two petcocks on the side of the oil pan? You open the top one and see if oil runs out. The old IHs didn't have a dipstick. Looks like you F14 was an original rubber tractor from the wheels. You might might some owners on redpower

What transmission does the 202 have?

It will work, slow going but it will slice bigger stuff even though it's not made for it. 1" would be pushing it, but it should handle one or two at time, no way would you be able to mow a field of bushes that size without breakage.

Cultivators tend to work best in loose soil, you might not get penetration if the ground is hard. If it just slides on the surface it might rip some stuff out, but will plug quickly. If you set up the tines like a landscape rake it might help.

That is correct on a tractor, front axle is "overspeed" 4x4 truck is not.

Something has to give somewhere, either the tires slip or something else does. Perfect straight line and identical gearing/tires there isn't anything to bind up. I had an older truck with manual hubs & manual t case, you easily could shift in and out of 4x4 with zero lever effort 50 MPH on...

Turn as sharp as you want on loose/slippery surfaces. No issue. Since front axle of tractor generally runs a few % faster than rear tires, front axle helps you turn. Can't run 4wd on hard surface (high traction), even in straight line Pickup truck 4wd can run on hard surfaces in straight...

My experience is the tractor will practically pivot on one rear tire in 2wd, but in 4wd since the front tires are locked to the rear, the front tires can't speed up faster for the turn so it holds you back. I rarely have the brake pedals split on the 4wd unless I am in real tight quarters, or...

My memory was fuzzy on the range lever, I shifted F-R a bunch with the loader and I remembered the U pattern on the speed lever. Think this was it: 1830 would have to stop to shift in low range unless rolling while shifting and got the revs right. Not usually the case off pavement. On the...

Could be junk in the tank that keeps getting sucked into the lines

I used to drive an 1830 (Same as German 2030, but sold in Canada as 1830 to avoid confusion with US built 2030) I believe this was just a bigger version of the German 830. Trans was two sticks as described, 8 forward and 4 reverse. Been at least 20 years for me, but shift pattern was: Range...

Yes, they have made OEM loaders for at least one series of tractor for Case IH, New Holland, MF, Fendt, Valtra, Kubota that can think off. I should have saved the photo of a Kubota tractor with Massey Red and MF decal loader arms with Kubota orange cylinders, mounts and quick attach. (Owner must...

We have loonies and twoonies plus colorful plastic bills and don't use pennies so if you pay cash it's rounded to the nearest $0.05 :-) The tractors all arrive as skid units at the dealer here, smaller cabbed ones as well but they are more complete. Larger ones are on tiny rims/tires for...

Seems upper end to me if a 2wd, but not unreasonable if it's like new.

Japanese built tractor, US built loader. In Canada Kubota offers both US built loaders and Orange painted and Kubota decaled ALO Quicke loaders.

Careful, you will trigger the SSQA fanboys.

I don't have it.

Your QA or loader arms could be slightly twisted, the bucket is heavy enough to force it into place, the bale spear is not. I ran into that exact issue on a loader, heavy buckets would latch on easy, the bale spear had to have weight on it to latch. The loader was tweaked slightly.

Depends on the age of the tractor. I'd say 1930's & 1940's almost all the plowing on the continent was done with 20 to 40 HP 2wd tractors. Keep in mind those were Ag tractors, not compact tractors of today. A 40 HP tractor was on almost every farm here in the 70s and 80s. You could do a lot...

2wd on ag tires with tubes loaded with calcium. No rust issues 30+ year old tractor. That log is 36" butt and think there was 2 x 16' and 1 x 12' saw log in it. $6000 will buy you a solid 2wd for what you want.

2wd or 4wd, ROPS or cab? Price is fair for 2wd ROPS.

A 6000 lb 2wd utility tractor is going to out pull a 2000lb fwa/4x4 compact I run 2wds. I pull logs with a 2wd. Yes 4wd is better. I don't run the nice 4wd in the woods, I prefer the smaller, more nimble 2wd.

Post on redpower, if you have not already done so, a few posters there use offsets. Seems to me the Mitsubishi built 265 didn't share anything with the 274 or 140, 130, SA, A etc. Should handle the other stuff, double check if IPTO, I know the 274 was trans drive which made PTO stuff harder to...

At least here in the east you can buy perfectly serviceable hay equipment for less than 10k if doing squares. CaseIH 8420 / Hesston 530 / MF 1734 (All same baler) only need 30 PTO HP and a compact would run it. They make 39 x 52 round bale $3500-$6000 price tags on the above machines in...

I looked at my single shaft unit, the bottom cover on mine (no shaft) covers that straight line part. You can see a straight line in the shaft you are talking about, does the cover around the bottom PTO shaft have a groove that would fit in?

Get injector pump expert to do pump work... No sediment bowl on diesel for sure. The true factory ROPS was a 4 post design. I can't say I've ever seen a 4 post ROPS with a loader. I have seen several 2 post SIMS ROPS & canopy with loaders on 674s. The 84 series and up had a two post ROPS that...

I'd try that over at redpower, you have dual shaft set up, I run a 95 series but it's only single 540. Don't recall anything like that spinning.

If it is the type that uses little balls to hold the shaft in, they are sticking/stuck and are not popping out. Huge pain, I have a shaft do this and 100 or so tries it finally came off. Took the coupler apart and cleaned the balls etc and no issues since.

Draft control is for ground engaging implements, it relies on implement feedback to raise or lower, since bush hog won't do this, draft control will be all "down" or "up" and nothing in between. Unless you have gauge wheels or decent skid shoes, nothing will automatically lift and lower a bush...

Doubt you will find any cab tractor that size that will clear an 8 foot door. I have an expensive Helly Hansen workwear snowsuit and ski goggles. Way cheaper than adding a cab and doesn't devalue the tractor. I usually just wear a t shirt and light pants under my suit or I get too warm...

Yes to Global.

I'd try HLA. They make all kinds of adaptors, ask them if they fit the 580. https://hlaattachments.com/item.php?prod=58

Your toplink can be shortened quite a bit yet, that will raise the blade a lot. You can also vary which top link hole on the tractor you use and see if that changes anything.

Good luck, take any puller slow and easy. You might also find the drum as worn internally that the shoes are holding it even when fully released.

Will it start with jumper cables? If the battery was run completely dead the battery might be toast. Easy thing to do is clean both battery cable connection and make sure they are tight.

I used to have a Suzuki 300. Rear drum was enclosed so the housing had to come apart, hub had to come off spines to remove cover, then drum could come off after getting it to clear the shoes. Very time consuming job as everything is usually seized. I had to use lots of penetrating oil and...

I have zero regrets with SB78. No issues with MK Martin, I've used it several winters now. Only repair I made was to weld up the skid shoes, but I do a lot of blowing every storm.

Have a 240 with 152 perkins, I'll have to look, I think the grease fitting bank for the front pivot bolts there.

It's a Canadian built plow, ACE-8 bottom. They were very common in eastern Canada. The bottom is likely UK inspired because of British Commonwealth links. Most plows that era were similar here, we tended to get UK things from MF, IH, Ford etc. Here is an MF I noticed come up for sale today:

Your green line (and purplish one) on the first photo are 12" on my plow. It's a 3x12" The long straight edge on my share/point runs parallel to the beam. It's not a flat piece of metal. Still isn't the width of the furrow on my plow. Brand new share, factory built IH plow.

You are right you can plow what ever depth you want, sod is more sensitive to depth to turn over right though. I've gone 7" on my 12" but it doesn't turn the sod right. I run 5.5-6" and it turns nicely. Yes 144-128=16 less than being double, so not quite double, another words it's about 80%...

Agree with connecting the two hoses together. IF the loader was properly plumbed with quick connects on the loader valve, you should have had a male and female hose to connect together. I remove loader from tractor here that the valve stays with loader, I have to connect the hoses together...

12" x 2 no worries powerwise in good conditions. Getting your wheel spacing right might be the bigger issue.

Guess it depends on the bottom, my plows the moldboard is the width of furrow and point is only part the width of the furrow. The double comment stems from the old rule of thumb to plow only as deep as half the width of the bottom, while one 16" not quite double one 12", here is the theory...

You will normally carry the bucket higher than the snow anyways, otherwise the bucket cuts to the uncleared snow if you aren't blowing in a perfect straight line.

Any shape bale put up too wet can combust. Small squares were commonly associated with this since they were baled and taken to barn immediately and stacked tightly in a barn. Most round bales are left in the field for a few days before being put in a barn, in some cases they get left where the...

The actual gear box that the PTO shaft on the tractor connects to the fan and auger drive should be oil bath anyways, at least it was on all the ones I've looked at. The auger drive is typically open sprockets and roller chain on the end of the auger, but I've seen some augers driven off the...

Good plan, I haven't needed chains yet with 4wd. I do a lot of road travel in winter so sort of rules them out. I do run chains on a 2wd loader tractor, they make a huge difference between being tractor useless and useful.

LOFTNESS?

Tractor weighs around 8500lb with loader and 78" HD bucket + weight of snow blower. More than heavy enough for 78", others near me run an 84" on same size of tractor. The 84" usually are taller and bigger fan, might move more snow and take more power, but they were way more money when I priced...

Glad you got it back. No, I would not loan anything out. Too much to go wrong. Things wear out or break fast enough using them yourself, let along by someone who doesn't have a cent in it or even know what to do with it. I do not loan things, I have offered to do things for others to be...

Buy a blower the width of the tractor, no narrower, but not much wider. I have MK Martin. I run 78" on 64 PTO HP It's exactly the width of the tractor and was a lot cheaper than an 84". 4wd means next to zero need for chains. I do not run chains, loaded rears with cast wheels. I clear...

Drill is one ton empty and two ton full. 3307 lift capacilty. (1.5 ton) Might just be enough tractor if you don't plan on filling the drill to max weight.

Pollination Bees :-)

Cast wheels, fluid, loader arms with bucket is going to be between 9 & 10 K on my estimate.

A good set of LT tires on front likely stand up better than cheapo tri rib. Steering won't be as nice compared to tri rib. Can't beat the cost of used truck tire (free) I use them on farm wagons all the time. Have had on front tractor tires in the past

Glad you got some brakes. If they work good they can lock up the wheels and skid on pavement.

How many hours? If it's the first time they've been changed since new that would be normal from manufacturing. If you've changed it several times and never had anything, I'd be more concerned.

Think he bought it already, $2400, decent for a 62 PTO HP tractor if it runs and is usable. It's also a 45-50 year old tractor at this point. Likely going to need some work. At $2400 it's worth some work.

Hour meter could be broken at 1200 too. 2250 loader likely easily to find and get mounts for.

Solid tractor, the basic design was made from the early 70s into the 2000s under IH, CaseIH and McCormick brands. Main weak spots are brakes and parking brake. I run the 3 cyl version of the D239 (D179) in a smaller model and no worries. Have had work done to it over the years and parts were...

Ensure your auger is sharp, good edges make difference. You can hang some weight on the auger frame, I've drilled 4 foot deep in dry clay by running auger on one tractor at idle and using front end loader on another to apply down pressure. I really want a hyd drive auger that fits my...

I have the original operator's manual, has some content and trouble shooting, but most of it is based off a new machine versus a neglected one. Still good reference. Hope you can get it moving, once it's turning it is much easier to identify anything else it needs.

#9 will easily turn by hand on flywheel if everything is free. If the baler does not turn by hand with the flywheel, either forwards or backwards, and the baler has been sitting a while, the plunger might be stuck. I think my first comment with that the slip clutch was working if the tractor...

#9 will bale decent when set up right. But they are old and a parts machine is valuable to have.

True, likely the slip clutch plate would be seized anyways, it is under all these springs. Over run clutch is this ring with swinging "teeth" If the teeth are stuck, they won't swing into place to let the PTO spin the slip clutch or flywheel. Mine blew up so I learned more about it than I...

If you can turn machine by hand and the PTO will NOT turn the machine, your slip clutch could be shot OR the over running clutch is seized.

So I understand....can you spin the machine by hand at all?

I have run a 9 for years. The machine should turn over by hand by turning the flywheel counter clockwise while facing the flywheel. Sounds like the slip clutch is doing it's job.

If you use the 7 way trailer plug, make sure all the wires are active. Not every pin might be connected on the tractor end. Many just have ground, right left, taillight connected. If that's the case, wire your plug with ground and taillight, just turn your headlights/taillights on to run the...

You've have to know the source data criteria to decide if the list even makes sense. Skew of the sample can make anything come out on top. There are solid, reliable models in all colors, just depends on WHEN and WHERE that tractor was made. You can also have two identical tractors, one runs...

Ford / NH pretty well only had the bigger fenders by the time the "S" models came out. A 2910 or similar when new would have the same fenders you put on your 3010S. Likely someone looking for the big fenders you removed.

Depends if you are trying to break sod of not. Guessing if you've cleared trees there isn't a ton of grass. If the disc plates are new and sharp you might have less aggravation then powered tines of a rototiller with roots and stumps.

Must have been someone buying those manual F350s to sell them 9 years after you couldn't buy one in US or Canada. I agree new automatics can shift faster than manual, My ZF6 was a slow shifter towing from a dead stop compared to my current automatic. MPG is a factor of gearing and driver...

The big one is most new automatics have two or more overdrives, helps the vehicle do better at highway speeds as it gives more options at speed. The last 5 & 6 speed manual HD pickup transmissions had a 1000 RPM drop between direct & overdrive at 65-70 MPH. Newer automatics split the difference...

Still don't know why we couldn't have this. 2020 Manual trans F350. https://cedarsmotors.com/archives/car/2020-ford-f350-sd-xl-4x2-regular-cab-145-wb-drw-6-2l-petrol

They are a Ford Ranger. Edge is just a trim of the Ranger. Was basically a 2wd truck that had the stance of the 4wd among other things. I have the sales literature somewhere for them. The XL, XLT, FX4 are other examples of other Ranger rims. "Ranger" used to be a trim level of the F150...

Keys get removed to slow down thief or discourage joyrider. Doors get locked. Neighbor had battery stolen out of truck years ago, truck door was unlocked they popped hood and took battery.

Low overhead and existing assets you can make some money. Absolutely does not pencil out starting from scratch.

Wouldn't surprise me if that sold quick. Looked fairly decent. dual remotes. Most tractors that config used here are caked in manure and mud and front tires completely bald. I'd guess it was bought new as a fleet tractor hence number and fire extinguisher and was then later bought by a farmer.

Grain grass fed seems to be a preference thing. Pretty well everything is grass fed here, not much of a grain area. I do cow/calf and never leave bulls intact unless I want a breeder. I'd want steers for beef, 4 bulls are going to be aggressive. Horned one will likely know how to use them as...

Price a salvage yard wheel center. I had a 28" rear work loose blowing snow and do the same thing, several hours of back and forth wallowed the TAPERED holes out. Had a wheel disk couriered from salvage yard to my house for a couple hundred bucks. Had tractor back together in a few days from...

Thanks! One was 12.5 acres and irregularly shaped, took over a day to do it.

I plow with a 3 furrow. Plow should be set up to be level while in the furrow. If your top link is too long, the back bottom is in way deeper than the front bottom, vice versa if too short, back bottom is too shallow. Tape measure is your friend setting up a plow. Biggest impact on the...

Anything with a single hose wants float valve for ease of use. I have one valve that is double acting detent. The tractor hyd system "loads" when using that valve to lower a dump body with single acting cylinder. With the float valve just put it in float and it lowers smoothly. At the...

Jam nut was not used on the leveling sleeve. Your top link can do the same thing.

Trusses lift easy enough with front end loader with some chain and pipe. These were 4/12 32' span.

As mentioned, two issues: 1) The cheapo two piece lug nuts have the chrome cover swell and normal socket won't fit. Use bigger socket/half size, you can also knock the chrome off and expose the smaller nut inside. I replaced all my lug nuts with one piece ones...... 2) The lug nut is not...

Depending how how much anti gel you put it, it could have tied up the moisture and since the tractor ran some the filters and lines could be fine. Cover tube until you get a new cover, rubber glove works! Does the BX have fuel tank drain and water separator? Once things have thawed out, any...

Take old hoses off and have hyd shop make new ones. Since you know the wear point, wrap the new hoses in that place.

You are welcome, glad you got it cleaned up, they shift nice when the linkage is tight. I love running through the gears hauling. If you use range lever for "neutral", some gear clash is typical when putting into gear. You should not get any gear clash going L to R or R to L for example if...

Lever is for the 3pt response. Power steering pump (if like the ag tractors) should be on right side of engine and have it's own fill port (separate oil system) Check oil level by removing fill cap.

No, my bale shaft is CV on tractor end and regular one on gear box end.

The range lever (H L R) is not synchronized, you have to be perfectly stopped (even hold tractor with brake) when shifting it. Also, do not use the range lever as "neutral" since it's harder to put back into gear, even though it can be left in neutral (the later tractors removed "N" from the...

I lost a CV joint a while back on a baler, I ran a single joint for years, but severely limited turning radius. I could not rebuilt the original Weasler CV, was completely shot. I also could not easily find the CV end to fit my implement end. Ended up buying a complete replacement assembly...

I've used tape...but VERY careful with it making sure it is uniform and a thread or two from the end of the fitting is exposed to prevent tape from coming off into the line.

No ballast thing must be regional. FWA loader utility tractor here typically has fluid or/cast here. 10,000 is on the light side for loader tractors used on most the farms covering any amount of land. Most farm skid steers around here are just for farmyard work on concrete or pavement...

Depends on the size of tractor. Guarantee I felt way safer handling a 4x5 silage bale on the 75 PTO HP fwa loader tractor than the 5000lb skid steer I was running. Tractor way longer wheel base, heavier and wider. Compare same skid steer to a compact tractor handling same bale...skid steer wins.

Easiest to take the existing hose with you and have it copied. Regular ISO remote couplers are 1/2" NPT, most basic hyd stuff is NPT. If you know your tractor hyd PSI you will be safe buying hoses.

Only ran wheeled, would think a tracked machine would better on wet ground. Either machine might tear up the grass if turned aggressive. Another thing is I'd be hesitant to lift very high if land not perfectly level, I've carried very wet silage bales with the rear wheels hardly touching...

I handled many 4x5 silage bales on hard surfaces with skidsteer. Loader tractor did the field pick up and hauling, skid steer in yard loading wrapper. Lift height is an issue if you want more than one high on a deck. Skidsteer is light in front with bale spear, rode fine with bale on spear...

No reason it won't be solid. I'd rather deal with replacing parts that "let go" or repair leaks as they happen then buying something already worn out that will still need repairs and probably the same ones.... At least around here, something with zero rust, good frame and body is a decent...

If you are seeing a 4x4 truck spinning one rear wheel and not the front, likely not engaging, too many wires, vacuum lines etc. I had a vacuum hub seize, truck said it was in 4x4, but no power going to front wheels as open diff only would spin the axle that had the seized hub. Any true 4x4...

I do field work with loaded tires, it's not weight in the tires, it's the PSI of the tractor weight versus the kind of tires on it. I've rutted up places with a 2wd on narrow tires weighing 5000lb that the 8500lb 4x4 on wide rubber hardly left a mark. Enjoy your tractor. I've never ran into a...

I ran 78" rear push on 42 PTO HP and was ok power wise. I have same size on 64 PTO HP now and have power to spare, but gear drive so can only so slow. I will assume you are hydrostat, so less concern on width as you can go as slow as you want, having said that, you likely will want to be...

Sounds like a good way to run the power bill up and risk of fire greatly elevated. I use heavy duty timer, I program to come on an hour or so before I need it (for daily use for example) For emergency start use, it has to be pretty cold for it not to start with good battery, good starter and...

I'd be more worried about a naturally aspirated computer controlled diesel with emissions than a mechanical pump with turbo.

I'd try the weights and lower tire pressure. I had a small homemade snow blade on a lawn tractors many years ago, I had factory wheel weights and tire chains, plus weights on the back and it was still iffy. Mind you it wasn't a 1000 lb lawn tractor.

McCormick started out strong back in 2003 when it was a former CaseIH tractor built in a former CaseIH factory often being sold by current CaseIH dealer. Now they seem to be an orphan and sold by small independent or RV/sports dealers. The older CaseIH stuff I mentioned still has support...

You've twisted something, tube connecting the two sides is likely. Three ways to fix: 1) replace whole assembly 2) Put uneven strain (opposite what twisted it) on it and hope it doesn't further ruin it or cause other expensive damage to tractor and loader 3) Cut the welds on the assembly...

Guess it depends on budget and dealer support. 4x4 versus 2wd etc etc. I looked at a brand new MF 2607H, they make them smaller, the smallest one is basically a brand new MF 135. A real farm tractor built like the ones years ago. I'd also look at the Deere 03 series, think the 5103's are...

Two here as well, one is on and off the tractor multiple times a year, it's on when needed and removed when not. Same as you, don't like loader banging and clanging when it's not needed. The other loader is only on in winter months. I built a barn a while back and it was handy having two...

Even handier having two loaders :-)

Good question. If you have access the loaders might be easily to measure the width to see if the are even the same, i.e. if you were trying to mount 1854 on M7060 that has 1154 mounts, if loaders are different width than no go. I'm curious if the actual QA pin mounts are the same myself now...

I ran 2wd utility tractors for years, still run them farming. Did all farm work, tillage, loader, haying with 2wd, it all got done with planning. Don't send a 2wd loader somewhere a 4wd loader is needed and you are fine. You are planning to main cut grass with it. That tractor will be...

For sure, you can buy a serviceable sickle bar for a fraction of a junk disc mower. If you are only cutting a few acres you can afford to take it slow and save $$$.

Only hyd on a mower conditioner like a 1209 should be to lift it, and you don't do that while running, PTO runs it. a 30 PTO HP utility with 4.5 GPM AND the correct PSI should pull it, power it and lift it. 8 to 10 MPH? Forget it. Maybe in perfect conditions when machine was new, but it's not...

I bet if you put the same exact oil in all the different brand containers someone would still insist the stuff that came out of "their brand's bottle" out performed the others.

Clean tank and flush lines, new filters and fresh winterized fuel. Fuel should gravity flow to the filter housings. Pre fill your filters with diesel to save time. I can change fuel filters without bleeding the system, but never ran it out of fuel though. Tank does come off without...

They had the Fiat era "New Holland" sign up last time I was there, but nothing on the lot but a pair of lawn tractors. A relative had bought always bought Ford lawn tractors from there, last one was in the late 90s. Was a contractor in Sydney River that had a couple of those A series Ford...

Guess you will have to drive it to know for sure. I wouldn't be scare of synchro one if you are good with a clutch. I have hyd shuttle and love it.

Neat, think I have some old sales lit with their stamp somewhere. Not sure when they stopped selling. Yes, McRae's was Cub Cadet last time I drove by a few years back. Eastern Industrial never had anything on the lot, wasn't surprised they closed.

Replace when the chain breaks and becomes lost in the snow. :) I keep basic roller chain, master links and half links on hand for emergencies, saved me numerous times when a chain breaks or the master link keeper flies off and comes apart. Parts are cheap and chain easy to work with.

I use Cat II to Cat I bushings frequently, my M7040SU came with a full set in the toolbox new from dealer. I pull a Cat I 3 furrow plow with it for example.

DT is Kubota speak for "Dual Traction" or front wheel assist. H in the model should denote hydraulic shuttle, and it should have "Hydraulic shuttle" decal on hood.

Likely be Green Diamond then, I was surprised they hadn't opened a store L&G homeowner type store like they have in metro by now. Carmichaels in Margaree was the last independent green one, but was told there was somebody selling "bootleg" for MacLeod's in Sydney mid 2Ks. NH dealer was in...

Sounds like the factory heater & blower isn't up to the task. Add a supplemental 12V heater and fan pointed at windshield if needed. I was in a wheel loader that had a 12v heater/fan combo screwed to the dash to keep the windshield clean.

Haven't been across the causeway in a couple years. Think orange is the only tractor dealer left in CB, the rest all closed as far as I know.

Does it still change with RPM after the oil change? I'd just set the RPM elsewhere it doesn't do it. Doesn't fix it, but at least you don't have to deal with it. I'm wondering if the actual shuttle lever is not 100% in neutral, i.e. 95% and when oil is cold and thick it's enough for the tractor...

You may have to ask NH parts if there is a float valve for that model. I added a float valve to a Kubota, you had to specifically order a float valve and install it, the regular detent valve did not have float position. Both types were fully interchangeable on the tractor.

I'd just take the stack off the muffler and then use a couple 90s and pipe to direct the exhaust forward and down. Pipes, clamps and elbows like only a few bucks at auto store. Barring that, I'd be cutting branches before driving under them.

I'd agree, especially if 2wd is very common in your area. Here a 2wd pickup is almost impossible to buy new the last few years unless you ordered it.

Seat and canopy should be the same, 395 is 3cyl version (D155) of the 4 cyl D206 in the 585. 35 PTO HP versus 52 in the 585. I think most of the other "bolt on" parts fit, but you can compare what you specifically want on the Case IH parts website by seeing if the part number is the same.

Raise response, supposed to control how quick the draft control reacts to lift a plow etc. I never use it. Brake pedals likely never greased, there is a hard to reach fitting behind all the cowling. There are no wiggle on mine, tight as new and greased often. Not sure if there is a bushing that...

There is the notch but it's not labelled start, sort of a zig zag and then you hook the lever around a notch. Part way does the soft start aspect. The lever is spring loaded so it goes back to off so you can't leave it partway engaged.

85 series IPTO is wet clutch pack, own separate lever, nice smooth engagement if you move lever slow, or instant engagement if you move it fast. You can disengage instantly at full engine RPM with no affect on travel speed. I usually let off RPM to engage, but it can be engaged smoothly with...

They were considered a very nice tractor when they were new, really a premium model at the time in my opinion. The tach is just a cable drive off the front of the engine, no wiring needed. If the needle doesn't move the cable might be broken. IPTO (right of seat, yellow knob) can be engaged...

I spend a lot of time on that basic tractor. Currently have a 495 on the place, next series newer and 10 less HP. The 4 speed lever is syncronized, shift on the fly using the clutch. The range lever is L-H-R since you don't have the column mounted shuttle lever. For loader work, set the...

I have one, it's well built, not low quality. Had zero issues with it, used it several winters now. Pretty well every farm dealer here sells them whether blue, red, orange, green. The Meteor line is more personal/farm use as opposed to the industrial/commercial models they also sell if...

I count 19 conventional ones. 54" to 87" MK Martin in black (they offer them in any color), not sure what brand the 3 red ones are.

Local dealer posted this today:

My old 7.3 6 speed manual was similar, biggest fuel suck pulling camper trailer was having to scream at 3000 RPM in 5th gear on every upslope on 70 MPH 4 lane. Idle up the same hills in 6th no trailer.

Haha, next will be the "my neck is better than your neck" competition :LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL: I look forward most of the time bush hogging, I'm less worried on what the bush hog is doing versus what I am driving over/into.

Never understood all these complaints about looking behind, that is what you have to do with almost every PTO farm implement if you want to monitor what it is doing. At least you are driving the same direction you are looking with a snow blower compared to a baler. Informal survey of brand new...

Do you have an actual tire dealer? (doesn't sell tractors) Not sure where you are located but I have multiple places in an hour drive radius that sell and install farm tires that do not sell tractors or equipment. Call the places that cater to trucks and heavy equipment. I buy from a "tire...

I'd see what your local tire shop offers and go from there. Have off brand 7.50-16 three ribs on a 2wd loader tractor, they've held up fine. Tractor is on 2nd set of rears and third set of fronts since new.

Some newer vehicles if you HOLD the anti-fun system button down for a long period of time it will cancel traction control and stability control, allowing fun to be experienced. Others, nothing aside cutting wires will shut the $#%Q#^%%$ off. I drove one pickup that the switch was there, the...

I've had a conventional 78" for the last few years, had since new. No issues all with it. Local dealer sells them and delivered it assembled, I did have to unload with front end loader and cut PTO shaft once mounted. Price was very good. In general shear pins and gravel are operator &...

Not in these parts anyways.

My manual for an M series has the same wording. I buy Kubota branded oil from Kubota dealer that sold the tractor new, rating is CK-4 and also has CJ-4 CI-4 etc etc etc on the label.

I remember the Tenneco merger of Case and IH and them pushing Case as being the official company history, took almost twenty years and the Case-New Holland merger for them to dig into the IH side ("red "I" logo, Farmall resurrection, Scout utility vehicle rebrand of a club car product etc) The...

Yes, Case New Holland Industrial (CNHI) makes Case IH tractors, which uses Farmall as a trade name.

Are both built in same place? X might be a different factory. I don't like CaseIH's "new" numbering system, seems way too many models that use the same number with different letter designation

Allied 594? https://www.agdealer.com/detail/1067172/used-allied-594-front-end-loader

Compact or Utility? R1 or R4 tires? 3pt is intended for heavy pulling and lifting, first three point implement was a moldboard plow. You'll run out of traction or power before you overload the hitch. I use 3pt cross bar on a cat one utility tractor to skid logs, put a clevis on the bar in the...

I'd guess the blinking N might mean some kind of electrical error causing the shuttle not to engage. I'd try starting with the range and speed lever in gear, shuttle likely needs to be in N to crank, might be a weird sequencing issue for the shuttle. If that doesn't do it....might be some...

Welcome! If nothing original is left of the factory cold start, I'd just put a recirc heater in and plug it in to electricity for cold starts. Have a D-179 here (1/2 a D-358 :-) with one of those installed at dealer when new and I just replaced it a few years back. You may have to do some...

I almost bought one of these series. Simple and basic. Indian built where that size of tractor was still considered big enough to farm full time with. Ended up with a nicer equipped higher HP orange one for less money. Think I still have all the sales literature for every generation of them...

The hyd spout tip makes a world of difference on an open station. My old blower didn't have it, new one does. I have open station as well, huge reduction in snowman effect with the spout tip, helps control the snow much better and lowering it even keeps the snow below your seating position on...

I did the water pump on a 495. 2200 loader was already off (mounts stayed on) I removed the hood and grill/grill guard, drained coolant and removed the radiator (it needed repair) Loader could easily stay on it you raised it fully and propped it up. I later had to replace the fan a few...

72" would be ok since you are hydrostatic. MK Martin are good, think most common on the local lots, Tidal Tractor and Fort Equipment carry them.

I agree with the "find if something leaks, that is what is doing it" responses, but as far as the rust, it is bothers you, sand it up and paint it.

Mechanical design is good...the lack of a warning light isn't. I make a habit of kicking the brakes off EVERY time I get in the seat, and then again once moving to confirm the pedals released.