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M7060 should work fine for what you want. Good luck with the purchase.

Save even more more with ROPS :-) What are you planning that needs the increased hyd flow?

Solid model, parts can still be had. No reason it won't handle 4x5's two high.

Looking at your prices and comparing the Canadian MSRP: M4D-071 is $74,079 + loader M7060HDCC12 is $62,466 + loader M7060HDCC is $59,702 + loader (8 speed model) For me, I can't see an extra $11,613 for 4 less PTO HP and a buddy seat. Cheap me would even go for 8 speed model to save $14,377...

Original lineage of that was IH/CIH, but that's an Italian built one post Doncaster plant closure, should have T4 emissions. McCormick was very popular here when they were former CaseIH tractors built in the former CaseIH plant, the original dealers here dropped them pretty well after they moved...

Taarup was associated with Kverneland...which in turn is now part of Kubota. Generally solid stuff....European import and parts would likely have to be sourced there if needed. If you knew a dealer that sold them back when new you might have some local input on it. Kubota sell disc...

I'd scrape it out with a metal square mouth shovel right after use and park indoors, or in a way that snow or water doesn't collect in it. Ice frozen in a bucket is just as bad.

Of course ground speed doesn't work for a snow blower :-)

If you are pushing the clutch pedal ALL the way (two stage clutch) the PTO lever should go in, might be some slight gear noise, then release clutch pedal from 2nd stage and PTO should start. You have to come to a complete stop to put the PTO in gear. Does the PTO stop turning when you push...

Footings/ poles go into the undisturbed soil. When I built I was on a 2 foot difference, my down hill poles are really two feet longer than the uphill ones. Onces the poles were all set, then I put and compacted fill.

I find if you turn yourself in the seat it's much easier to watch what you are doing, i.e. turn your whole body, not just your neck. I find at least with a rear mount blower you are driving the direction you are working versus something like a baler or plough where you are driving forward but...

Many small forestry operators here use a small fwa tractor and grapple wagon. My opinion is that are NOT an issue in the woods, at least in the woods I cut out of, normally you are going very slow and simply pushing the clutch in stops you in the woods. Most grapple trailers here are not used...

I priced a tractor years ago, a used one, got a price in person at the dealership, called back and was told a new price and when I asked about the original price they said it was "a pricing error" and they had to fix it.

You are correct, almost everyone with a 2wd has chains here in the winter, better safe than sorry. I see some leave them on all year round as snow removal is the main purpose of their tractor. I should have added my tires were loaded with calcium too, I would imagine unloaded tires wouldn't...

Yes, if it's never leaving the yard chains help a ton but you can get away without them. I did a lot of road travel and it was nice to do 22 MPH between driveways. The only time I wanted chains on the 240 blowing snow was backing up hill on ice with the blower down, I had to blow downhill in...

Yes, 1789 RPM on a MF 240 for 540 RPM, the 152 tops out @ 2200 RPM or so......even when it lugs back it PTO still turning 540+ I have an orange one that will turn almost 500 engine RPM over PTO speed, works good on blower too.

I jack the wheel clear of the ground and then I can rotate the wheel/tire chain easily and not worry about it being pinned down. I mount a pair of chains on a set of 14.9-28s every winter.

Yes, I had a 3 paddle and went to a 5 paddle one same width. The 3 paddle still moved a lot of snow.

The counter clockwise tach took getting used to when double clutching main box on the road :-) For snow blower, of the two reverse speeds, you have creeper slow (low range) and warp speed (high range). When I ran a 78" on the 240, Low reverse was perfect, I used foot throttle and just held...

"Hydraulic Shuttle" clutch pedal doesn't feel the same as a normal dry clutch, not as precise for sure. Things "feel better" when the oil is warmed up and you use low gears for precision work.

Some of those German Deeres are in 4x4 by default, the switch only holds it in 2wd, if that stuff fails it defaults to 4x4. I'd check wiring to the clutch pack that disengages the 4x4.

It should be the same, should "plug and play" 72" will work but depending on your tire tires it might be narrower than the tractor. I ran a 78" on a 240, which is a newer 135 and it worked fine if you took your time.

When I was shopping the M60 series were all DPF etc. Kubota offered (at least locally) M7040SU without DPF at same time as M7060 with DPF up until 2015/2016. Pretty sure if you open the hood there will be an emissions sticker on it somewhere telling you what it meets.

Loaders that run off the rear remotes were a cheaper way to connect the loader and use existing controls, prior to the joystick era it made for a much cleaner installation especially on a cab tractor. If the remote levers are comfortable to use then no worries, biggest drawback is it ties up...

I have the round fenders as well. Should be a hole in each fender (facing backwards) to take the stud mount lights in your link. You could mount the light bar on top of the rad shell. If the original switch and headlights are still there, wouldn't take much to make them work as all the wiring...

Do you have the amber lights on the fenders? Years ago I added the old style lights to the fenders, found the wires were all tucked in the amber light boxes and the light switch on the dash controlled them. There were already holes in the fenders and amber light box to mount lights. You could...

Next one will have a cab....for stay in seat jobs.....but I am keeping the open stations. May or may not get a loader on a cab tractor either. Most jobs I use loader for an open station is far more convenient and visibility is better. Only loader work I do that a cab would be nice is snow...

5th wheel RV have to have the extension to allow the trailer to turn and not hit the cab during normal driving, something that was less of an issue when people only towed with an 8 foot box truck.

I was thinking that myself, local NH had a RF440 on the lot for a couple seasons, not sure where it went, looked odd compared to all the silage specials. MF has a budget 1745D 4x5 which I am thinking is the cheapest new 4x5 baler on the market now and is a tried Hesston design that has been...

Looks like about a $25K CDN difference between RF 450 Utility and 450 Roll Belt Silage Special. (50K versus 75K) The RF 450 is a fixed chamber roller baler, no belts, I don't see why it won't handle silage. People ran the old Krone and Gehl roller balers here to make haylage long before NH or...

The old disks I use have square nuts on the gangs, I use a 24" pipe wrench (I'd use it on hex too....) and as long of cheater pipe as I can find. Pipe wrench is directly in line with the nut and not off set like a socket or box end wrench, doesn't spread like a open end wrench or adjustable. It...

To go the same travelled distance (when rolling) smaller wheels will turn more often then larger ones since they have less circumference. If the driven axle shaft is the same rpm, a small wheel will rotate slower, but that would mean on a tractor the rear axle is pushing skidding/locked up...

Tractor front axle runs faster to allow the tractor to steer better, if it didn't lead(run faster) the front end would slide and be pushed by the rear axle when turning on soft/slick surfaces. Since gearing is "%" faster, the difference is greater the faster you drive, your 4wd engagement with...

That about sums it up perfectly. Also the "I really don't want to stop right now and I think I can make it through here in 2wd" which ends up with you locking the hubs after you get stuck.

Yes. Less to go wrong, bonus with mechanical hubs. Just a pain to preplan needing 4x4. I've had to replace the hub actuators in my current vacuum shift front axle.... Never had to touch the manual hubs.

Yes, drove a few with that mode. My last truck with the transfer case on the floor was fun driving in the urban areas after snow storm, side streets not plowed, main streets plowed, moved that lever quite a bit going between dry pavement and snowpack, every turn seemed to be onto dry pavement!

Tractor: Front wheels lead (turn faster) so you are binding up the drivetrain and the front tires either slip or something lets go in the driveline. Loader tractors used on concrete floors scraping alleys in barns that run in 4wd all the time tend to wear the front tires bald in a hurry. You...

Post a picture. I am going to guess it's a pin on loader and not quick attach. That will be a pain to take on and off if you do not have the right set up. I remove a pin on/off loader routinely and it requires something overhead (like building truss/beam etc) to hold the loader in place while off.

Your owner's manual with the legalese should state when WD hitch is needed. My current and last Ford both required WD hitch towing over 5000lb on the bumper according to Ford. Trucks were rated to tow 10,000 & 11,200 on bumper with WD. Practically speaking, as long as your tongue weight...

2014/2015 M7040SU still had mechanical pump. Bought for that reason over M7060 at the time.

I was surprised to see how light the cross tube was on the Kubota SS attach, here is the Euro coupler.

I did a 32 x 48 pole building, poles ever 8 feet on the 48' side walls and 32' clear span, I did wall in the ends, but the spec allowed both ends to be completely open without any posts. Mine was speced for heavy snow load so if you don't have that worry that is awesome.

They've gotten carried away with them here. I personally hate them as most people can't/won't use them properly so when you do try to use it right you end up almost getting hit or have to slam your brakes on for people who stop in the wrong places. Best ones? Two local ones: One on a truck...

Where are you? There were sold in Eastern Canada and were common back in the day. If you can find a former IH dealer you might get lucky, and salvages yards might have some present. D-206 engine was also used in the newer 584,585,595,3230 etc.

If it was me I'd build the new 30x48 completely separate. My opinion is there are too many roof lines and joints and it will leak at some point, and you can't reliable extend the poles. If you need indoor access to both buildings, build a covered breezeway, I can see that being handy if all...

Must be true... a 1995 Kubota has lasted 26 years already where a 2005 one has only lasted 16 years so far? I would agree any pre DPF ones are all the same quality. I've been quite happy with my "teen" era M series. No issues of concern.

Do you have the operator's manual? My Kubota manual shows how to drain coolant from the rad and block. On the M7040SU there is a bolt near the oil fill plug that you unscrew and the coolant drains out.

I think some of this is a function of how much snow and how often. 24" and a 200 feet of driveway is different than 2" and 20 feet. Same deal as walk behind gas versus tractor. I had an electric snow thrower years ago that I was given, 120V, it would handle the 2" of snow, basically a broom...

If you disconnected it when the oil was cold and now it's sat in the sun and got warm, the oil has expanded and won't let the couplers release enough to connect. If you have female ends on the back hoe, simplest solution with basic tools that won't damage anything is to take two wrenches and...

Yes. faster to cut/torch bolts then trying to free them up usually. If anything is on the road after 10 years old it has had body rust repairs. Anything 20 years old is something either senior owned or seasonally used (convertible, some farm trucks) and never drove in the winter much. If...

Yes! If the "light" is in the up position front axle is engaged :-)

M7040SU doesn't even have a 4wd light, I don't miss it.

1986 or so Ford Motor Company bought New Holland and formed Ford New Holland, Fiat bough FNH and was allowed to use the Ford name for a bit but not the emblem until late 90s or so. I remember driving 5030, 6635 & 7740 all were solid blue with New Holland decals and emblem, but small Ford name on...

If it was me: 1) Make sure connections clean and try different battery or jumper cables. That will rule out battery 2) Try Jumper cables DIRECTLY on the starter lug and ground. That will rule out wiring amp drop. (make sure you have it in neutral!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) If it still doesn't...

If you have good coulters (big and sharp) you might get lucky after the grass has died and laid somewhat flat. You can plow right up until the ground freezes. You'll need to disc in spring. I prefer fall plowing to spring plowing, works for me when reseeding hay land. I'd mow it first :-)

Your engine will lug down and stall on too large of an implement a long time before you will wear the PTO clutch/clutch pack (what ever your tractor has) If your engine is holding RPM and the blower is losing speed....your PTO is slipping. Engaging PTO at idle with no load on the machine...

Try A&I parts site, they list generic rims and fit by model.

What HP do you really need and do you still need it to be 6 cyl? Most 20 year old + 4cyl cab utilities had mechanical pump, dry clutch, mechanical transmission and limited wiring.

Price and condition? Hyd shuttle (if equipped) and a newer model +more power in the M9000 would be more appealing.

I've always found the one on the lot is the better deal. "we can order a new one in, but it's at the 2022 price and freight went up etc. etc."

I handle 500 kg ( 1100 lb) fertilizer bags easily with LA1153E loader on a M7040SU tractor, pins set on "power" not "height" I use tine bucket and keeps my load about a foot in front of the pivot pin, I lift them and suspend over fertilizer spreader so does it at height.......the bigger LA1353...

Pros and cons for sure. Own land, own equipment and full control of inputs and operations....just can't control the weather! I've had to buy hay before, was nice to have it show up and no breakdowns, no weather stressing and no effort....just pain of paying for it. Lack of self sufficiency is...

Yes you will need front weight if 3pt blower and you do not have loader or blade on front of tractor. As for RPM, fan speed should be 1:1 of PTO RPM, at least on the 540 blowers I've run.

Turn around in seat and blow snow. Done it for years. No different than turning around and watching anything else you are hitched to.

Gas or diesel engine? Dipstick and filter should be on right for diesel. It's a fairly big tube with a screw type cap, not a narrow tube with a ring on the end.

Watched the whole season, good entertainment, the farm market in the series is here, still going :-) Diddly Squat Farm Shop · 5-12 Chipping Norton Rd, Chadlington, Chipping Norton OX7 3PE, United Kingdom Market is up the road from the farmstead.

Think it depends on the size, any ag loader I've used had a "square" bucket, depth and height being about the same.

Exactly, used buyer at mercy of new buyer. Guess the used buyer knows what will last 30 years easy after buying 10-15 year old machine, new buyer always has warranty or $$$ to repair. Same as the manual trans crowd, no one bought new cause the people buying new wanted automatic.

You can still get that minus the manual transmission. As far a stick...up until 2018 model year Ram (Cummins...not gas) could have that combo....complete with rubber floor, vinyl seats and crank windows. Saw a 2016 new on the lot that config. One of two 6-speed Rams out of 100 and something...

Hope it's not "made better" with computer. I drove a 2wd GMC with a automatic locking differential, it would always spin both wheels until the computer shuts you off and you are stuck. Decent all terrain tires too. Turning off traction control and even the "long press" on the button still...

I use 4 low a lot towing, real nice backing up a trailer. Used to leave hubs unlocked for 2LO with manual trans/lever 4x4 truck, gave something like a 16:1 R gear compared to 6:1 Still works with auto hubs and auto trans, just haven't done a 2Lo mod for the electric shift.

I believe it. Run your house during power outage too!

2wd truck here is dedicated highway truck, dry gravel, hard dry grassland. Anything wet or slick is front axle needed. I'd consider a 2wd for dedicated tow rig if I was flexible on when I had to tow. I've never needed 4x4 towing RV, I need it almost every time I have stock trailer hitched...

100%

Hydraulic Shuttle should have decal on the hood, both have the similar FNR lever, sync shuttle requires clutch to shift F-R, hydraulic shuttle is clutchless.

Yup went from a 7.3 PS 6-speed manual to a 3.5 ecoboost 6 speed automatic. Hills the 7.3 was to the floor in 5th towing, ecoboost hardly has the pedal pushed. Pull in 6th gear 1800 RPM easy on the flat. I've had it sideways many times on pavement and you have to watch the speedometer since...

300 six and granny low 4-speed was best powertrain in the early 80s. For the Cummins Ram, more like they didn't update the transmissions to match since so few sales. So same G56 trans while they kept updating the automatics to handle more and more power. Used to be the manual was rated more...

I read a few posts on Eaton Fuller conversions, primarily on Cummins Ram applications. MD truck trans handles power easy and off the shelf parts for conversion but find an OD model. 4x4 is main challenge which is what I think killed an OEM using those or Spicer in a pickup.

I should have kept this, I had started to fix it all up but rust belt doesn't help life span. Truck was only 3 things away from being completely perfect for me, 8 foot box, rubber floor, keyless entry. Didn't want white but when you want a unicorn truck..... The 6 3/4 box though worked fine...

That to me was the pinnacle of pickups, still reasonably simple, but reliable, decent economy, basic comfort options.

2018 last year for G56 6-speed with 350HP/660ft/lb 6.7 Cummins. The Automatics made WAY more power and towed way more so only a diehard manual guy would get one. 16,000lb or so tow limit. More than enough for me.

Yes, should have said to stop cranking, tighten the lines, the try and start it. I've had it pick up on 2 cylinders then 3rd picked up after a bit.

You have to bleed all three injectors on the head, crack all three lines, crank engine until you get fuel at all three, then tighten them.

Guess I'm old school, no reason the normal setup doesn't work if properly maintained with grease, including the tractor stub. Anytime I've had issues, it was on something new to me that I had to clean and lubricate. I've had several brand new PTO shafts, i.e. had to cut to fit brand new...

I may have to try #3.

This may not apply on a 245, but some MF that size had interchangeable ball ends, you just pull a pin and swap them out. Have a 240 built that way, top link switches end for end to be Cat i or Cat II balls.

If it's spinning wheels 2nd gear at an idle then it might be too wet (slippage) Extra speed helps in wet going. I will speed up in a wet location, in my case with gear drive tractor I'll just open the throttle up to gain speed. ( stay in same gear under load) No way would I slow down, you want...

I agree, my IH plow likes 4 MPH or so, I can pull it faster but fixed beam and rocks don't agree. 2MPH and the sod hardly wants to flip, 6 MPH it almost spins it over an extra 90 degrees.

2nd gear is hardly moving at idle. Too slow will also cause poor plowing. Have to see how the plow was set and what the wear parts look like. Plowing is an art and so it setting up a plow.

No harm in using any RPM within governed range if the engine isn't lugging. You will burn less fuel, "gear up throttle down" but I don't run a tractor at idle working it though, that makes no sense to me. When plowing I like the RPM up enough that the hydraulics and steering work properly and...

I've had calcium filled radials since tractor was new. Zero issues to date. Loader tractor, rears have fluid, front radials do not.

No experience running a Kubota round baler, too new and too much $$$ for me, but local orange dealers seem to move a lot of them. NH and Deere owned the market pretty well otherwise.

If your tractor has a remote valve there should be two unused couplers at the rear of the tractor that the backhoe doesn't connect to. You will also have a lever to activate this remote valve. I haven't been on an MX5800.

Sounds like you need a remote outlet with the ISO couplers and valve.

Could be weak battery too. Load test the battery to be sure.

My Kubota one has a "bump" in it so you can see the bucket is "level" everytime. Rod is adjustable. I find rod makes using a fork real easy since you quickly will know if the tines are going to dig in like a spear.

I looked at the smaller 5045E 5055E 5065E 5075E and the only difference I could find out was the pump settting, 3 cyl turbo with mechanical pump. Considerable price difference between a 5045E and 5075E.

Both filters are the same. Spin ons are easier, but I've had no issues with the MF cartridges. Just a pain to bleed fuel system, but that is what the hand pump is for.

That is a crazy OEM exhaust location. Doesn't make sense, almost like they forgot to install the exhaust system! Good job fixing it.

I did the same thing on an old craftsman, new battery had the posts backwards and I didn't pay attention. It cranked fine but didn't start....I feared the worst, hooked the battery up properly and the mower was running when I sold it years later with no issues.

Did you try on redpowermagazine?

You are lucky it is wired. I looked up the connector on one tractor here and not all the pins are even powered. Just has 4 pins of 7 connected.

I had looked into this model as a future purchase. Basically the tried and true M7060 with a nicer, bigger cab with buddy seat option. For whatever reason, the M4-071 only has 60 PTO HP where the M7060 is 64 PTO HP What I did find. is if you can "settle" for the less deluxe cab, the M7060...

I run one tractor with an underslung exhaust, horizontal discharge under rear tire. I really hate it to be honest. You get gassed hitching if you leave it running You stir up a cloud of dust in dry going You risk burning something up with hot exahust. Only two good things is you have an...

Those default to locking in 4x4 if solenoid or electrical issue (wire, switch, relay) So first thing I'd do is check electrical wiring, then switch/relay, then solenoid.

Did you get free?

Apply a coat of PBlaster or similar on the threads. Let it soak for a day, reapply, soak wait etc. Try to unscrew it, use a wrench/pipe wrench if needed. You may need to remove from tractor and put in vice. Heat will help if you have it. Once apart, clean everything up good, let it dry out...

That's right. I drove two tractors the same model years ago that wouldn't pull a slight upgrade EMPTY in high gear, too heavy for the power they had. Other thing is hill size comes into play as well along with bucket size. What some call a hill others may call a speed bump or a mountain...

Yes, they have dry drum brakes. The shoes may have oil on them if your axles leak. Shoes may be glazed too. The drums are a pain to remove unless someone has already removed the screws that hold them to the hub.

Power to weight ratio is key. Pretty sure any hill I can go up in high gear wide open throttle on a 70 HP gear drive tractor empty, I can go up with the bucket full. Function of size of bucket too.

I have a 78" HLA bucket with bolt on cutting edge on an LA1153E Works perfect, 72" is too narrow for me.

I'm not sure if I'd even care too much about that leak, it's an old tractor, they all leak. Ignition key does not turn off most diesel tractors built before 1995 or so. Hours are anyone's guess. I rather a 10,000 hour tractor with rebuilt engine, new clutch and new tires in good cosmetic...

Lighter tractor will stay on top. It's about PSI. Dual tires help floatation, but not usually an option on compacts. With narrow tires and low ground clearance, you are going to get stuck. I'd shed the counter weight and leave loader on, at least FEL can help you push out if you do get...

I ran Vicon tedder years ago and it was decent, folded a lot easier than the manual fold Kuhn that replaced it, and I consider Kuhn to be #1 in tedders. I saw a Vicon square baler around here years ago, was new in the mid 80s. Thought it was an oddball. I since found out Vicon bought the IH...

In the last 30 years I've had a tractor hauled to the shop 3 times, being the same tractor that's been here since new, and that was only because it couldn't be driven there due to failure. I don't worry about roading a tractor if needed, have driven it to shop too. I don't have a trailer to haul...

What didn't you like? I'm a NH haytool user but Kubota has a good local dealer and usually has haytools in stock on the lot.

Cars are decent too. I've owned three Mexican built vehicles, two domestic brand, one Japanese brand, all were reliable and few repairs. My others were domestic brands USA or Canada built.

Read an article about a clevis on end of tow strap coming off a hook (not captive) and breaking truck windshield and penetrating skull of truck driver. :-( I've also worried about the ball some how breaking and becoming a 2 5/16" cannon ball. I have a hitch slug with a screw in clevis for...

I'd go with Kubota/Vicon, good brand and they were considered the gold standard in 3pt spreaders. I run an older Vicon, very happy with it.

My next (used) truck will be a gas job unless I find a unicorn 2017/2018 G56 Cummins. Waiting to see if Ecoboost ever gets in the HD line. My 3.5 turns same RPM pulling that my 7.3 Powerstroke did and gets similar mileage. The 7.3 was to the floor anytime I dropped to 5th for a hill, hardly...

Been a few years since NV5600 been in a Ram. You are lucky you have no salt. A 15 year old truck is all but junk here unless never winter driven or you want a new cab, box, doors, fenders etc.

Yes, you are right, I reread it. He still didn't agree to buy it, and they revoked their offer since he didn't accept it and they felt he declined it since he priced it elsewhere.

Sounds like there was no formal agreement to purchase and the dealer had another sale lined up. Price quote doesn't mean they have to hold something for you for an indeterminate amount of time while details are sorted out. You are free to shop around, just as they are to sell to the first...

I would assume they have anything from a compact and up. I'd just assume anything under 200 PTO HP.

That's a cheap 8860. Almost all them here were 4wd and on fat tires of course. I operated a brand new 5860 4wd years ago and liked it. I've noticed decent, lower hour tractors were always cheaper on Ontario compared here in the east. Were some IH 274's around here back in the day, always...

Kijiji is good. Rare to see a X860 2wd, I only ever saw a couple, a 5860 2wd in standard blue and a 6860 2wd, in optional red paint, Dealer had it on the lot for 3 years new! They are a solid tractor, dealer support hasn't been constant here for them.

I am assuming front 3pt is on the third remote with the hoses plugged in. That should not affect 3pt. Also curious what it does with an implement on it, might need "worked" if it's been unused. Sorry no real help, but what a nice lineup of solid tractors: m7040 4wd cab, m4700 2wd, landini...

Nothing less than a utility tractor, I'd want 60 HP class minimum. Open station works just fine, might help get a better tractor than looking for a cab model. You will hate life trying to handle round bales in snow and mud with little front tires and low ground clearance. Bigger tractor will...

I'd do two for the snow blower if you are going to use it a lot. I had a single remote for years and just the "turn" function. New tractor had dual remotes so new blower has "turn" and "tip" I use the tip function as much as the turn. The rest of the implements on your list don't really need...

Sounds like clutch master cylinder is bad? In that case the clutch is "engaged" all the time.

Thanks, may look into it. I've dealt with them before.

You shouldn't have any unreasonable overlap on a 3pt model if set right, your tractor wheels run on the edge of the uncut hay and you lock your mower hitch with the sway bars. My front tire stays right on the edge of the uncut hay. If you are knocking hay down with the tire, you are missing hay...

I like that.

I think the issue will be TRACTION, not power. Your R4 tires will spin out if it's the least bit wet, but I think if the ground is perfectly dry for limited use you'll be fine. If the ground is soft, your are not moving. Hydro would be my other concern, but if you are not disking for days...

Let's not confuse that there are two reports at play here, the OP (SkylineAcres16) report shows what is needed. ZERO lime is needed For three passes: First with 18-46-0 40lb/a of P 18-46-0 for example, 46% = P 46 lb/100lb of fertilizer by 40lb need= 87 lb/acre application rate Also get...

I'd pick IPTO whenever possible. I run both Live PTO and Independent PTO tractors for PTO work, Live works plenty fine as long as you do not want to ENGAGE the pto while moving (two stage clutch tractor). I have run both live and IPTO on manure spreader, IPTO wins every time, no need to stop...

I have them on a 40, metric R1W radials on all 4 corners, they were standard equipment on Canadian market tractors. Sales lit shows narrow bias ply, every M7040 or M7060 on the lot is on metric radials.

That is correct, however if you dish the wheels out they can interfere with loader mounts if fitted. The 20" R1W radials have pretty well been standard on M series that size in Canada since the 40 series. I test drove an M5040 a few years ago that had the 20" radials dished out to the wide...

Haha, must be regional, we don't call it hydro in these parts eh? :-) More like "power goes out and I start up the generator" Check out the back page of the 84 series operator manual. IH US book and printed in USA so technically my Canadian dealer would be right calling it a four wheel...

When would you say this occurred? My local dealers of all brands always called a 2wd tractor a 2wd and the same tractor with "front wheel assist" a four wheel drive. I think the line got blurred many, many years ago, and it wasn't the dealers catering to the city folk. See a page from my 1984...

It's practice. I've been doing it for years, only way to get good is to try it. I can back one up as far as I to go and then turn and put it in a gateway or doorway. I can do it with a pickup, but trucks aren't as nice to back with. I can also back a baler and wagon up to, but that takes a...

I replaced the box on mine, it was SWISS cheese. That what happens in salt country. Rockers and front fenders got work too. Old box had a piece of wood in place of the front cross rail since it was gone. New box was from Texas, I couldn't believe how nice it was, amazing the difference...

Do 99% of my snow removal with rear blower, have loader/bucket on front too. A blade would work REAL good for this kind of snow.....

Terrain varies a lot in NS, pretty well all red clay on this farm, go a few minutes away downhill and it's sandy and gravel. The best ag land tends to be near the river bottoms, here's the photo you were asking about, the field being plowed is downhill from this. You can see it's up in the hills.

IH 510 semi-mount, uses lower draft links, no top link. A rear caster wheel shares the weight. The ground engaging parts are out of the ground when turning, also stops the drill from seeding (ground drive) The drill will tip / twist on the 3pt arms if you turn aggressive.

Thanks. That tractor almost floats...rears are loaded plus the cast centers. The fronts carry the loader very well. I've driven over places with the loader on that the tractor hardly made a mark, and the other 2wd tractor with 7.50-16 fronts was sinking in.... Kubota offered the R1W radials...

That's me...pretty all the M series sold in Canada came on Metric radials, 360/70R20 was the standard front tire size despite not being listed in the operator's manual or sales lit....

CV shaft is the biggest bill on them. Blew it on ours, was going to be $1000 for a new one. Don't have a CV joint anymore. Check the belt splices, and check for hot bearings after you've run it a while. There really isn't much to these balers.

See "yours" has the 24" front rubber as well. Most of them here were sold on the 20" Metric R1-W radials Make sure you get rear work lights! The tractor is wired for them, they just don't come with it. You can get the factory kit (one per fender) or add your own LED in the existing holes on the...

Almost bought one. (M5640SUD) Very basic tractor with no garbage on it. I wouldn't be afraid of it. One I looked at had 14.9-28 tires and the 11.2R20 fronts. Left hand range lever with reverse inline with low for sort of a shuttle between say L4 and R4. Main shift partially synchronized...

We bought a new M7040SU last year, hyd shuttle, fwa, metric R1W radial tires, cast wheels with fluid plus LA1153 loader. Wanted to avoid the pollution junk on the 7060. Regular M7040 wasn't available new at the time. Only put 200 and some hours on it so far doing loader work, haying, tillage...

I've run a Kuhn GF22N for years, the older version of your tedder. They used to be made in 3pt or pull type, 222 only pull type now. Are you taking TWO mower swathes at once, or straddling one windrow? A 222 is wide enough to grab 3 swathes from a 7 foot disk mower in two passes if the...

You can plow with a tire in the furrow that is wider than the plow bottom. What is critical is the distance from the tire side wall to the width of the furrow you are trying to cut. Your leveling crank does the rest. Plow here with a 3x12" plow. Normally run on a tractor with 14.9-28's...

Picture in link. Stolen tractors disguised to avoid detection, police allege - Prince Edward Island - CBC News Compact MF repainted and decaled as New Holland to throw police off. CAT dealership there was MF dealer as well, so was likely new machine at the time.

Thanks DT86 and ovrszd. Might see if I can either do a couple of 90's to point down, or just get a straight pipe a few inches shorter than the factory one (it's about 5" too long and I don't want to cut it.......) I don't want to modify the "normal" exhaust since I am fine with the upright...

Does anyone have some up close photos of the underslung/down swept exhaust piping on an M7040SU? Just curious, have to clear a low door and the vertical stack has to be removed, it's just a straight piece of pipe so I can put a shorter one on it, but wanted to see the factory set up.

Check out the 2015's with the oversized hood, tiny fenders and Tier IV DPF etc. I had a new 5E on my short list, looks like that isn't an option any more.

I am looking at a 5055E with 16.9-28 tires and 9x3 Transmission I had it for a SHORT test drive around the dealer's lot. Speed chart seems ok, but looks like C reverse is useless for anything, B reverse seemed fast, A reverse slow (snowblower?) B range looks like only "field speeds" C range...

I'm looking at 5640SUD's I am hoping to get a "simple" tractor, so I am concerned with computers and emissions equipment and what years had what. I have 3 pieces of sales lit, 2009 M5640SUD V2403T E-TVCS Indirect Injection 2011 M5640SUD V2403-T E-TVCS Indirect Injection 2014 M5640SUD-1...