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Your engine is the best tester you’ll ever find.. As long as u have fuel to the injection pump INLET, it should pump.. It work off of its own camshaft..& is usually held in place w 4 bolts on the corner of the pump.. If u have fuel GOING IN & nothing coming OUT.. It’s the pump..

If it has an electric shut off, check the solenoid... make sure u can feel or hear it clicking on or off..

I can rebuild that pump for u.. U can send me a prvt msg thru this site or use my screen name at aol dot com in your home mail service.

Tractor supply has the rattle can Yellow.. I call it burnt yellow. I haven’t been able to find the “orange” so I just use Chevy orange..

U put the same oil as u put in the engine.. I rebuild them.. U won’t find a manual, they aren’t for the layman to work on.. If u want to get in touch with me.. u can click on my screen name and start a conversation.. Or put my screen name at aoldotcom in your home mail service..

It’s not going into re-gen mode is it.??

Just cover the hole because “splash oil” WILL leak out..& check it often.. And remember, u won’t be able to shut it down unless u simulate the solenoid operation..

If the solenoid went bad, the pumps control rack would be moved to the “no start” position..But could be moved by hand to the “run” position.

Is there any way to access the side of the inj pump.?? Sometimes there is the throttle plate that’s removable, that will give u access..usually held on by 4- 10mm bolts.. If u can access the pumps control rack, u can make sure it’s moving freely.. It sounds as if the shut off solenoid went bad...

THATS not a problem at all.. It’s just excess fuel that’s being returned.. some are more than others.

That’s a good idea.. Remember, DO NOT GOBB ON ANY SEALER.. It WILL change the timing.. Good luck

It requires voltage to run.. And u cut voltage to shut it off.. Removing it will act as if it’s got voltage, your removing the plunger in the solenoid that push’s the control rack in the injection pump..

2nd picture is solenoid.. 1st picture is supply pump. To add a bit: if the solenoid has 1 wire.. it means it grounds thru the body.. So the body has to be touching something metal.. for it to complete the circuit.

Way to go Bmav.!!

Spencer Diesel.??

Where r u at now.. still no fuel thru/out of injection pump.?? Do u have someone working on it.?

Why not buy shims.. it’ll take u a good weeks worth of time to make them.. Aren’t they only a couple of bucks.??

Try the “orange tractor talks” site.. u may have to join but certainly someone over there will give u a copy..

Aaah.. nuthin a couple 3 stool softeners won’t take care off.. lol

GS cookies, LOL!!! The wife came home last week with a HUGE BOX FULL of them.. I asked her which kid wrangled her into selling them.?? She said, NO, these are the ones I BOUGHT.!!! Holy Smokes.!!! Lol I’ve been piggin out for days on these things..

Only 3 options.. It’s either the key switch itself.. Or the pull in coil in the solenoid is shot, so u have to replace it. Or u have a bad relay.. Good luck and let us know which one it was..

Find the throttle lever that hooks the pump to the pedal.. there should be 2 adj screws.. hi idle and low idle..

It’s possible that the timing is off.. if it runs good at lower rpm’s and starts popping and smoking at a higher rpm.. If it’s white, on most diesels, it means the timing is retarded (late).. and the fix for that is lower the pump.. (take out a shim, whatcha got to lose?) Have u checked the...

If your having a hard time running wire to the solenoid to test it.. u can unbolt it..it’s just a couple of 10mm bolts. Check your fuses too. BTW.. the fasteners are metric.. Good luck

Do u mean the pump to engine timing.?? Injectors don’t time to the engine..

Have u adjusted the hi speed screw.??

I musta been sleep walking last night.. I’m under the impression that it takes A LOT OF AMPS to pull in the plunger on the solenoid.. therefore it gets its voltage from the starter..?? So u won’t see anything on ur meter unless u crank the engine.. give THAT a try.. It just depends on if u have...

Yes, I think u r correct.

1 volt..?? R u checking it while cranking it.??

If it shut off on u and u kept trying to start it.. you now have air in the system.. There should be a hand primer or electric pump on the engine somewhere.?? Loosen the fuel inlet on the LAST pump.. now run the hand primer or electric pump until fuel comes out & tighten the banjo bolt. Now...

It can be fixed in place, but where r u going to find the parts.?? Delivery valve holder oring. Delivery valve gasket..,

If u could post a pic of the inj pump, it would be helpful.. If u shut it off w the key switch, u have a shut off solenoid by the inj pump.. make sure u hear it click or remove it from the engine.. Take the air cleaner off.. Hold the throttle wide open..

Try removing the shut off solenoid.. it’s located to the left of the inj pump.. Looks like 2-10mm bolts holding it on..

Now there’s a man who likes to work hard.!!

The max fuel screw has another screw adjuster in it.. it’s the torque screw.. When u turn one up, (add more fuel) to which u actually BACK OUT the screw, u should only turn the whole assembly.. That way u turn the fuel proportionally.. fuel goes up, torque goes up .. It would make sense that ur...

What was it doing before.?? Why did u pull the heads.?? I almost sounds like the valves are floating.?? Could be pump timing.?? Did u reuse the timing shims that r under the pump.??

I would pull the injectors and hang them outside the engine and hook the lines back up..& crank the engine to SEE if they’re firing.. DONT GET NEAR THE SPRAY.!! IT WILL PENETRATE YOUR SKIN.!!

Is your solenoid “energized to run” or “energized to shut off”.??

U can get a kubota engine manual and it shows all the pre-sets..

That doesn’t apply to me.. They say possible “dis colorization”..but it is a “warning”..not for use with..

Great video.. It looks like you’ve done that once or twice.. (lol) How r u keeping the plow at the angle u desire.?? Thanks

The VE pump is great.. Only problem I’ve ever seen is: (35 years in a fuel shop) 1) leaking front seal which puts fuel in the oil.. but Bosch fixed that by upgrading the seal..and could be caught early enough by simply checking your oil on the dip stick. 2) the boost diaphragm freezing up from...

BTW.. I have that jig.. I’ll send u a prvt msg.

ROTFLMAO.!!! Yup..

The injectors have to be taken apart and retorqued IN A SPECIAL JIG that holds the insides from turning.. There are tiny alignment pins inside.. if u simply try to unscrew it, u break the pins and ur left with buying another injector..(cuz u can’t fix the broken pins) On top of all THAT.. u need...

That sux.!! Can u follow the wires thru the harness FROM the solenoid.?? They gotta go to some relays.. I was ALWAYS told that the pull in came right from the starter, do to the hi amperage required to “pull in” the rod.. THEN it switches over to low amperage thru a relay.. I’m mearly repeating...

Winston beat me to it.. EVEN IF the glow plug adapter has the wrong threads, they can sacrifice one and run it thru a die to cut new threads..

Harbor freight sell a powder for use in their sonic cleaner.. it must be strong because your only to use 1/8th..teaspoon.!!

THATS awful expensive for a “glow plug”..& the description says “nozzle”..

If u have fuel up to the pump inlet AND your solenoid is working properly.. Yes, time to pull the pump.

It could also be that the top nuts(delivery valve holders) have vibrated loose.. They torque to 30-35 ftlbs..

There is a tiny oring that seals the fuel in the supply pump.. U can remove the supply pump and have it rebuilt.. (I can do it for u) U can test it by removing it, blocking off the outlet side and applying air to the inlet side and dunking it in a pail of water( or spray w soapy water mix) and...

Whatcha NEED TO DO is take an injector out of the head and hook the line back to it.. now crank the engine and SEE if it’s opening the injector.

It’s possible your missing a spring.?? IDK.. Besides that, is the rack on the pump free.?? It must be very free.. if it takes any force at all to move it, that may be a problem..

Yes.. it’s got pictures for Gods sake..

What search engine r u using.?? I use Google and there’s a herd of injectors for sale.. Don’t click the pictures, scroll down.. Spencer diesel is the first one I saw..& there r a few.. but they’re over 100.00 each..pretty expensive compared to getting them rebuilt..

What r u talking about.?? Google, ford 1910 injectors and they pop right up.. Although I can rebuild them cheaper..

Black is ground..- White is pull in.. Red is hold.. If your tester doesn’t have the amps to pull it in, it’s ok to apply a little pressure to the rod..to get it to snap in.. Next swap the white over to red, leave the black as ground.. Push in on the rod w the tester on the red and it should...

I don’t think the pump has been apart and put back together by a “qualified” inj pump tech.?? He also has the max fuel and torque screw completely out.. there’s no starting point.. It’s my “guess” is, that between the rpm’s and max fuel, he’s overcoming the gov springs with any load applied...

ANY inj pump shop will fill that order

If your inj pump stop solenoid has 3 wires, u have a relay that switches over from “start” to “hold”., If it’s a 2 wire solenoid, I would suspect the key switch.. Good luck

Thanks for thinking about me.. We’ve chatted about this on another forum..with no improvement, sorry to say..

That’s what I was going to suggest.. 5-10 minute epoxy and forget it..

I think it’s because someone told him power is still being sent to the gp AFTER the light had gone out..

THATS WHY I say, just pull'm out..& check’m w a battery charger.. Neg- on the body & Pos + on the spade..& count..1 1thousand, 2 1thousand etc.. They should be CHERRY RED by 10 1 thousand., If not, keep counting and figure out how long u need to keep them on.(if ur not gonna replace them)

FYI..it’s 300psi minimum for compression ignition.. Have u tried moving the throttle up to 1/2 and double cycling the glow plugs.. Does your engine have a supply/lift pump.?? It may be weak.?? And the fuel isn’t at the inj pump inlet at starting.. so it takes the extra cranking inorder to get...

Were the shims under the pump reused.?? I hope u didn’t throw them out.. Have u gone to the pump to make sure the throttle assembly is going to wide open and hitting the stop screw.??

Ur not supposed to fill it UP TO THE FILLER PLUG.!! Re-read it..

Your welcome.. it was a pleasure.. I wish I could/knew how to, do hydro pumps.. It might be a case of: u can’t teach an old dog new tricks.. I think I’ll “stay in my lane” for now.. Happy tractoring..

Did u remember to engage the shut off bar with the nub on the shut off shaft..??

When the lite goes off, so doesn’t the power.. U have diesel techs at work and ur asking questions here.?? The more u cycle the gp’s, the hotter the cylinders get..

Lol..nobody ever listens to me.. Glad u got it going.

After u add oil, stop and go do something else.. smoke a cigarette.. The oil has to make it thru 2 sets of bearings before it lubes everything.. it takes a few minutes..

Cuz nobody does it.. lol I’ve been rebuilding inj pumps for a living for 35+ years.. It’s the hex nut on top of the pump.. NOT the one with the adjusting screw.. the plain hex.. probably a 17mm.. 1/2 qt of whatever u put in the engine is good..

Did you remember to add oil into the pump.??

U could of had a fuel bleed back issue AND some burnt glow plugs.. Either one of those singled out will give u a very slow/hard start.. but together, it would make for A REALLY POOR STARTING ENGINE.. Time to pull out a 10mm socket..(usually the size of the glow plugs)

Personal, I think I would remove it from the engine. Under the pump is a camshaft and roller.. if the cam is on the hi point of it’s stroke, pushing up on the roller.. it’s very possible that once u loosen the top nut, the internals will get pushed up also..& u don’t want that to happen.!! The...

Hard starting, black, white smoke, skipping are a few symptoms of a failing ip.. If u could post a pic of it or a link to a picture of it, I might be able to help..

U HAVE TO GET NEW GEARS.!! Period..

Yes, the one w the arrow.. Clean it off 1st.. Move the throttle to at least 1/2 way off low idle. Next loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine until fuel squirts out and tighten.. it should start now.. When it does, slowly move the throttle back to low idle. Good luck

It’s a diy project for some folks.. Look on eBay/Amazon for: “CAV Top Cover Seals” It’s a mini kit that contains 4 orings, the tc gasket and the 2 fiber washers that go under the top nuts.. If u look hard, u can find them for 9.00 w free shipping..The avg price is 9-12.00. Get the gaskets BEFORE...

If the pump is a CAV/Delphi.. And your handy with a wrench, follow the instructions above.. There should only be 2 nuts holding the rectangle cover on..& the throttle and shut off are on the top cover.. If it’s a RoosaMaster/Stanadyne pump, there’s 3 screws holding the cover on..& the throttle...

Inj pump.??

One very important thing I can add is about the filter.. Maybe you’ve run into this in your journeys around the web.. IF u have the 3 pc filter set up, filter head, filter, glass bowl with the long screw that holds it all together.. If your using a NAPA OR WIX FILTER.. THE TOP ORING MUST GO “UP...

Gotta know which inj pump u have inorder to get specific. CAV/DPA or in-line Simms

U have the step x step k0us was kind enough to print out.. Ur gonna have to get a manual

Trace wires or go buy a remote starter switch.. Hook 1 end up to the battery and 1 to the small post/spade on the starter.. and press the button.. vroom.. U can even leave it hooked up till u find your answer/problem.. a couple of zip ties and your in business.

Back in the 70’s.. I was ice skating at the local frozen pond.. I was dressed in a snowmobile suit..I fell thru the ice, completely under and was dragged out by some others that were skating.. I had a 4 block walk to home.. the snowmobile suit was frozen stiff as I was nearing home.. I looked...

I worked with a fella that delivered late/lost luggage in the evening and weekends.. He said he made 100.00 a bag + tips.!!!

Disconnect the fuel feed line and run it in a bucket.. turn the key to get the supply pump ticking and watch the fuel.. let it run a minute or so and watch the delivery out of the line.. if it slows down any, u gotta supply pump issue.. If it starts blowing foam, u have a clogged screen in the...

At around 80k for a test stand and 15.00-20.00 for a gallon of calibration fluid with a 25 gallon tank..& calibration injectors at 250.00 each.. I don’t put ANYTHING on my machine that I didn’t build.. There’s a level of cleanliness that has to be upheld.. Good luck

FWIW.. your probably not going to find anyone to calibrate your home built pump..but good luck

If it was that simple, there wouldn’t be a market for $80K test stands.. Your going to need the special splined socket to remove and TORQUE the top nuts on the pump..(delivery valve holders) Not to mention the gasket kit..& the plunger and barrel part #..

Yup..use your phone.. They’ll scan the bar code right off the screen..

I don’t recommend anyone fooling around with/in any injection pump.!! There’s just to much to lose. Especially trying it while the pump is still on the engine.!! When the pump is on the engine, the rollers are under “up” pressure from the pump camshaft.. & when u remove the delivery valve holder...

It’s a very common problem.. Unfortunately the pump should be removed to fix.. Inside the top cover is a tiny oring.. and it has to be changed from under and inside the top cover.. Sorry for the bad news..

As long as we’re telling stories.. I worked at a fuel injection manufacturing plant.. I took along my SNAP-ON torque wrenchs.. although they were furnished, I didn’t like the quality of them.. All the torque wrenchs were recalibrated 1/4 lee by the QC dept.. MINE was the ONLY ONE that never had...

Don’t give it a 2nd thought.. Torque away..

Do u know what cylinder is knocking.?? Loosening and tightening the line will narrow it down.. THEN swap the injector to rule it out.. Btw.. internet injectors r usually junk..

Loosen the injector lines 1x1.. Loosen, tighten up, move to the next.. That will narrow it down to “A” cylinder.. Next, swap the injector to the hole furthest away.. If it stays on the original cylinder at least u know where to go from there.

Once u own one, u get “the bug”.. wondered how u ever got along without one.!! My 2nd one is an Ez-Go all jacked up w knobby tires and rims, complete with a stereo.. it’s EXACTLY what I need to make the 50yrd trek to the mailbox and 50yrds to the shop.. lol

I got my 1st one for free too. I did a rush, rush job at the County Golf Course where they were holding a BIG tournament & 1 of their greens cutter was down.. I fixed it on site and was given my choice of bennies.. 1) A years supply of greens fees w golf cart. 2) entry to the tournament w pass’s...

Anyone heard back from LarryMorrow?? K2man.. glad u got your problem solved.. I was questioning the cost to repair vs new.. but I saw where you were..& understand completely now.. The cost to fly in new parts and the labor will just about equal the cost of a new pump.. Happy Tractoring.

Ok, kool.. thanks for the update..

My wife loves the scratch offs.!!! Her boys give her and I 100.00 worth every year for a Christmas present.. She’s like a fiend with a habit.!! Lol

I’ve been tossing around getting one.. that is until UPS showed up w a Dewalt 60v chainsaw and blower.!!! The wife bought them for me for Christmas.!! She was PIZZED that they were in the Dewalt boxes and not in a plain box.!!! I thought she was gonna cry.. I made a big deal over the “presents”...

Lol.. I didn’t get past the 2nd sentence before I started laughing.. Your going to find that the fuel is bad..& the injection pump is more than likely frozen up.. If u have a service manual for it, THATS gonna be your friend..

The only thing I’ve run into is the injection pump wearing out due to dirty filters.. Filters are very cheap compared to replacing the inj. pump.!! Breaking a couple of 20’s 2x a year will usually keep u outta trouble.. unless u run Bio-fuel and let it sit..

They’ll run forever if u change those fuel filters and keep the engine cool..

If u lined up the marks in the window when you took it off and u lined them up putting it back on, in theory u should be timed.. UNLESS u had a relative rebuild it who doesn’t do this for a living.. U see, it’s possible to put the part w the line on it 180* out of time..!! Therefore, simply...

I’m confused.. has the engine ran AFTER the pump rebuild.?? If yes, timing isn’t the problem.. if it was 180 out of time, it wouldn’t have ran. If the machine sat, chances are the inside of the pump is gummed up..

When u put the pump on, was the drive shaft in the engine already.?? If yes, u might be 180* out of time.. There is a DOT on the end of the drive shaft.. There is also a DOT inside the pump.. The pump MUST GO ON DOT TO DOT.. to ensure proper pump to engine timing..

I’ve had/have the same problem w gps.

I just received a UPS delivery.. ON A SATURDAY.!!! Lady said they have them working weekends until after Christmas.. she wasn’t happy.!!

When I had my 60gallon compressor delivered, I got a call the day before telling me the driver has a 40ft trailer w a lift gate and it looked like I live at the end of the “no outlet” road.?? I said yes, but if he parks at the beginning of the road, I’d come down w a trailer to get it.. He...

I know when that happened to a friend of mine, I told’m to go get a “throwable” PFD, the kind u have to have in your boat. (Seat cushion) They’re comfortable, lots of fade resistant colors, AND PORTABLE..it’s a cheap option for ya..

I’ve seen them where they won’t hit on some “quick start”.. it’s just the nature of the beast.. U either know how to do it or u don’t..

200 rpm’s minimum..at cranking. That thing is like a WATCH.. 1 wrong thing will throw off the whole works. Now if u tell me your a watch repair man, I can work with that..

I’ve heard both good and bad reviews on the 33.00 ones. The good is, most of them have a 2 yr warranty.. The bad is, they have to USE the 2 yr warranty.!! The maker of your Oem injectors is STANADYNE.. formally RoosaMaster.. if that helps u any. For a 60.00 difference each, I would go w the...

What’s happening with your pump.??

I think what they’re telling you is, go see if u can borrow a test kit.. I know Advance Auto Parts loans tools .. call around and find out who rents/loans radiator pressure test kits.. They come with different adapters & don’t tell them it’s for a tractor, if u can help it.. Good luck

Roflmao.!!!! Are u “SURE” it’s a 3cyl.?? Better go check..lol

CORRECT.. depending on what and where u ordered them, they SHOULD have a dot on a gear tooth.. Good luck

“Dumby drops” I had a roommate that took my car after downing a bunch of’m.. he totaled 5 cars.!!

They sell for 33.00 on the web.. They sell for 89.00 at the fuel shop..

I’m going w supply pump not feeding the inj pump when it needs more fuel. THAT or clogged screen in the tank..

I suggest u buy that core pump..at the very least you’ll see how everything goes.. Those VA pumps aren’t anything to fool with.. u either know how to do one OR U DON’T.. There’s shims and springs all over that pump..& if u get 1 wrong.. it’s game over.. U know where there’s a pump.. now search...

They bend extremely easy.. Look at the base of the injector, I’m assuming they’re PENCIL INJECTORS., There’s a slot on each side of the injector.. THATS where the tool slides into.. If u bend 1, throw it away, it’s no good.. There’s no harm in trying.. he’s gonna tell u they’re ALL BAD ANYWAY..

Yes, but they don’t produce anywhere near the pressures.. I’ve been doing this type of work for a living at a pump shop for 35 + years..

I’d be happy to have a look at it for you.. Simply write me here thru a prvt msg.. or my screen name at aol dot com.

I like Lou’s #6 post.. Give it a shot..

Why did u take them out.?? U must’ve had a problem.. If it was black smoking when you took them out and it’s black smoking when you putm in.. move on, the injectors aren’t the problem..?? THATS IF, the injectors were done by someone who knows what they’re doing..

Very nice!!!

Lol.. I’m guilty of that one..& I know better.!!

By far, fuel contamination & lack of basic maintenance.. No fuel filter changes, which lead to pumping plunger wear AND air filter changes which leads to cylinder wear and low compression.. ie: dusting the engine I guess we can throw in regular engine oil and filter changes too.. But being...

I’m still around and helping people with their inj pump problems.. I’d be happy to give u a hand.. I can contact thru here are at my email.. my screen name at aol dot com

A couple of 20.’s 2x a year will keep u outta my “in-box” & more of your hard earned money in yours..lol

If ur talking about the cost of the inj pump.. believe it.. The parts are “captured” and not available to the open market..unlike a Kubota, Mitsubishi or just about any other manufacturer.. U can only get a complete pump for the DK series.. Call around and ask how much a pump is.. It’s a hellofa...

All I gotta say is.. keep those fuel filters changed 2x a year or expect to break out a cool grand for an injection pump.!! Happy tractoring.

Go ahead and take it apart & get the number off the nozzle..& look it up on Google-Who..

Hold the top of the injector in a vise, watch the threads. Now use the flats on the injector to loosen it..(3/4”.?) Tighten it back to 50-55 ftlbs w a new nozzle..

My mistake..maybe be more specific next time..

Lol.!!! True, how true..

Check all the fuel filters and flow TO THE INJECTION PUMP.. I haven’t looked it up at the moment but, the pump requires about 6-8 psi at the pump inlet.. Good luck

Don’t b so quick.. Some keys turn to the LEFT for heating..& some have a spot between shut-off and cranking.. It’s gonna be a trial and error, poke and hope situation.. Good luck

If u put a clear line on it now and get it started, THEN let it sit.. you’ll be able to see the fuel bleed back thru the clear line. More than likely it’s gonna be a supply pump issue..

Basically it’s unburnt fuel.. U can tell by the smell and it burns your eyes.

Lol.!!!! Run aways are funny.. it WASNT the FIRST TIME tho.. I love watching people freak out.. I’ve had the pleasure of watching SEVERAL.. & putting out most..

If it does have that system.. it’ll be screwed into the intake manifold where the rubber ends and aluminum starts.. There will be a single wire and a tube for the fuel to enter the intake.

If your engine intake system has a “THERMO-START” .. Check it for proper operation. Unhook the fuel feed line and cap it.. Good luck

Lol.. that’s what I get for not looking it up.. sorry

Any 2-3 bolt puller will work, as long as it fits in the space. Take note of the mounting ear that has the timing line on it.. it should be lined up w either a timing mark in the block or degree marks.. Once u pop the gear loose, DO NOT MOVE THE GEAR..or the machine.. If it makes u feel better...

Kool.. Take care of that shut off bar question and hope it pumps.. Good luck

I forgot to mention that the pump will be full of fuel.. Was it.??

How did it look under the top cover.?? Rusty.?? Was the mv stuck.??

There’s probably a shut off bar that links the mv to the shut off shaft.. It going to move when u jiggle the mv free.. Just keep in mind that “hook” needs to be connected to the shut off “nub”.. when u put the cover back on.. Or.. seeing u have an electric shut off, leave the shut off bar out...

That # is the pump serial number.. The pump # will be something like: 3242F150

I had 1 I had trained from a wee kitten.. use to carry it around in my shirt pocket.. I had my own shop so I would take him to work with me.. He would sit on my shoulder and eat anything I did.. French fries, burgers.. anything.!! He use to ride in the truck with me, everywhere I went.. he loved...

If it sat for 5 years, I think ur pizzin in the wind.. I don’t mind helping, if u don’t mind put’n in the time. Just do a Google search for CAV DPA.. there should be a few videos of top cover removal.. U really don’t have to take it off.. just familiarize yourself w the mv..

If your not getting fuel out by now.. STOP.. U can lift the top cover and try to free the metering valve.. if THATS free..the pumping plungers are stuck & they’re deep in the pump..

Loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS and spin the engine.. watch for fuel to squirt out of the loosened lines..THAT will tell u if u have fuel TO the injectors.. If u wanna go a step further, pull an injector and hook it back up to the line outside of the engine and spin the engine to see if it’s...

Slip a deep wall 15/16 socket over the solenoid and loosen it.. finish removal by hand.. With any luck it’s the old style and the plunger and spring will come out.. On the new style the plunger and spring will NOT come out of the body.. BTW.. loosen ALL THE LINES AT THE INJECTORS.. not 1 at a...

South Carolina did away w safety inspections A LONG TIME AGO. That was the worst thing that could have happened.!! Let’s just say, if your traveling thru SC, just take a look at the junkers on the road..No lights, Bald tires, cracked windshields.. It’s REALLY BAD at night.. 1 headlight burned...

Shoulda NEVER took it out.!! U have to use a new gasket and a touch of thread locker.. And WAIT until it’s dry..before starting.. But seeing u already installed the pump, it’ll never dry.. so you’ll have to rely on the copper gasket to seal it.. Live and learn..

I keep telling people, unless you know how to build a watch.. leave the pump repair to the professionals.. EVERY piece and part inside the pump housing has a job to do.. if u get ONE part wrong, your “watch” won’t work..

Notary “Republic”.. “Safety” deposit box..

A 20 count is excessive.. I think the most I’ve gone is 6 1000.. The decomp is to heat the cylinders.. Don’t u count when using your thermostart.??

The long plungers go to the large discharge port on the rotor.. The discharge port is the one closest to the delivery valve end..

Yup, out here in the “rural” areas, all we have are height and how far back from the roadway it “should be”..

If u do have fuel at the feed line.. tighten it back up and go to the out side of the filter head.. got fuel there.?? If no, pull the filter down.. Don’t forget to keep cycling the key.. Good luck.. But experience tells me, once u get fuel to the injection pump.. it’s not going to go any...

Loosen the cap at the fuel tank.. Have a 5 gallon bucket ready. Take the feed line off the filter head.. got fuel?? If no, check to see if there’s a shut off at the bottom of the tank..(turn it on) If still no fuel, use some compressed air and back blow the line towards the tank.. u hear...

Which the key ON & the supply pump running, loosen the bleeder on the filter.. Once u get fuel there, move over to the injection pump.. It should have a bleed screw on the injection pump by the name plate.(CAV/DELPHI) it’s a double screw.. 7/16 body with a 5/16 bleeder.. Loosen the 5/16 until...

How about: hose pipe..?? Makes me cringe just typing it..

I had a 72” tv delivered yesterday by Fed-up.. I knew it was coming so I went and got a “hand truck” out of the shop and wheeled it to the front of the house.. When the truck got there, I watched him wrestle it out of the truck and stand there.. He didn’t have a helper OR a hand truck.. he just...

There’s a timing line on the mounting ear on the pump.. And there’s 1 on the engine block.. just mate the 2 lines.. Does your “friend” have inj pump rebuild experience.?? Does he know “by sight” weather a pump is good or bad.?? Why put yourself thru all this instead of contacting me.?? I’ll give...

Good deal.. Seems like your on the right track..

U don’t ever put heat on a rotor.!!! Simply knock out the plungers w a soft punch and hammer.. & lap them back in the bore w 1200 grit lapping compound.. How did u get the rotor outta the head..??

First off, that IS the injection pump.!! NOT an injector.. Second, there’s an oring on the “delivery valve holder”.. AND. a copper delivery valve gasket.. They get torqued to 30 ftlbs.!!

A lot of times it’ll be stamped into the inj body.. it’ll have a “b” after the #.. Ex- 207b. “B” stands for bar.

When I was in the work force.. the manager hired this kid to do “busy work”.. One day he comes in and says with a big grin, I was done with the work u gave me so I took it upon myself to DRAIN THE WATER OUT OF ALL THESE GAUGES.. He was SOOO PROUD of himself.. lol He’s probably running the place...

Check a couple of Kubota mdls.

When looking for a manual online.. look up.. CAV DPA WORKSHOP MANUAL JUST REMEMBER, those manuals are set up for a technician that has access to special tools and a test stand to reset the fuel and pressures.. With that being said, not all proceedures should be followed step by step..

Yup.. but.. unless u have a book and a few special tools, and some parts handy, u probably shouldn’t..

Check that shut off solenoid.. If it’s clicking, u either have air in the system, a safety switch is not activated or a stuck control rack in the pump.. If it’s the inj pump, I can tackle that for you..just click on my screen name and send me a msg.. Good luck

Very nice job.. A buddy of mine has one that unlocks when his dog wants to come in.. He lives out in the country where all sorts of critters try to get in.. The release is on the dog’s collar.. it’s very cool.

I’ve heard: Out like lightning.. Instead of: Out like a light.. Another one that makes my skin crawl is: Chimbly Instead of Chimney.. Here in the South there are no shortage of bastardized words.!! Skrimps =Shrimp Strewdriver =Screwdriver

Get off the solenoid.. u know it works.. Google CAV STUCK METERING VALVE..

Check for a stuck metering valve.. (utube) If the mv is free, u probably have stuck pumping plungers. (Inside the pump)

The DR line of mulchers and weed wackers seem impressive..?? PLUS.. they have a “free” 90 day tryout.. Idk how your built, but u could get one on a trial, do whatcha gotta do and return it.. I’m sure that happens a lot..

It can b a different pn.. aslong as the physical size is correct.. U can probably get 1 at a salvage yard for 10.00.??

They won’t have the correct tip OR the right opening pressure.. I don’t know how they get away with it.??!! They list 25 different engines or tractors this 1 injector fits.. it doesn’t work like THAT.. There a pn on your injectors.. Ex: DES: 5222107 It’s usually stamped on the body of the injector..

After 3 years the fuel is definitely stale.. now u have a tank full of stale fuel.. Use the hand primer to get fuel circulating.. Pull the air cleaner out.. Loosen all the lines AT THE INJECTORS and spin the engine until fuel squirts out of the loosened lines and tighten them up..

Oh, I see it now.!! Kool pic..

My point being, if the oring fell.. u would think it went on the filter.. Good luck

Lol.. I couldn’t help it.. lol U DID say, any comment.. Your dead right about owning a tractor.. u either work on it or let it sit for 6 months to a year at a “stealer-ship”.. The reason I said THAT was u said u had mekinec coming out.. I can tell you from experience, I charge extra when the...

And the gas it produces..

U might get a better deal going they a fuel shop.. they get discounts that the end user doesn’t and they’ll usually beat the factory (Cummins) price..

When u took the filter down.. Did the oring come with it.?? The TOP oring MUST GO UP IN THE FILTER HEAD.. NOT ON THE FILTER..