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@DJ54 thanks for posting. That is an excellent setup you have. My hat is off to you gentlemen for doing that for your local people. That is honorable work. I hope ya’ll keep it going. Yes sir, it is a constant fight with Mother Nature, every sort of vermin, varmit, and pest, fuel prices...

@DJ54 It sure is good to hear from you. Glad you’re still getting dirt on the plows. A young fella down the road here wanted to try making a sorghum crop this year so I planted a small field…why I’ve needed that old SC. I‘ve skint a knuckle or three on getting my cultivators back on and adjusted...

Well after all this time and that SC sitting in the barn, I got motivated after seeing Canadian Redneck on YT. I dropped the pan, removed the oil pump, and there it was...the gremlin. The oil pump aluminum end cap had blown through the 0.001 thick gasket. I put the 180 grit sand paper on a thick...

I've purchased several TISCO D3NN17365C cables and installed them with the same results: twisted apart within first few seconds of operation. My opinion is this cable is too long at 48" and binds causing failure at the lower end. It is much longer than the OEM cable. Any suggestions on how...

The Tach on my 1977 3600 just stopped working. I made sure the cable is not broken. The failure must be in the Proofmeter Driveshaft Adapter (PDA). Has anyone replaced one of these? Appreciate any advice you have. This tach worked fine but became erratic (bouncing) and suddenly stopped...

I just bought a hydraulic remote for my 3600. I am in the process of de-greasing, cleaning, and painting. I am including some photos and have questions about the install. 1. Some of the recessed ports have O-rings in them (see the attached photo). Do all the ports need O-rings? 2. I don't...

When I check the fluid cold, it looks normal. After I run the tractor a bit and then check it, the fluid is milky. I did have the tractor split recently to have rear main seal and freeze plug replaced. There are no drips/leaks I can see. Any suggestions as to what I should check?

Thanks RickB, I need to study this a bit. I've attached a drawing from the Alma Ford New Holland parts site. Part #8 is the voltage stabilizer.

I have a 1977 3600 that is in need of re-wiring. I have the Ford Repair Manual. The schematic shows a voltage stabilizer in between the key switch and the fuel gauge. The manual says this is required to keep a steady 10V output for the fuel and temp gauges. My Instrument panel does not have...

I have a 1977 3600 with a "C" prefix serial number. Repair manual says I need a 3-position push/pull type light switch. The switch I'm able to find on the web is for the A and B prefix serial number tractors. Any ideas on a suitable part source. Trying to avoid the high-priced dealership...

Well my 61 year old tractor developed a knock this weekend while I was bush hogging. Sounds like it is coming from the bell housing area under the battery box and not under my seat (which would mean tranny trouble). I don't hear the knock when I move in reverse only when I'm going forward...

Last year (when I didn't have the cultivator), I planted less than half of this field and it was grown up in grass and weeds by late July...I simply couldn't stay ahead of them with a hoe and troy-bilt horse tiller. Here are the results of running the cultivator less than an hour:

I installed the new T-stat with homemade spacer (you'll need to think about which way the new T-stat should go in so that it opens properly to allow water flow). I also had to drill a small hole into the ground down fulton-siphon to allow for the knob-thing on the new T-stat to sit flush. You...

Well I'm too cheap to pay the $34 for the spacer, so I decided to improvise. The original T-stat is called a Fulton-Siphon and is 100% brass...so why not cut it down to act as a spacer for the new T-stat. Here's a look inside the t-stat housing. Note the groove for the retainer wire-clip to...

I am now into a "second order effect." In order to put a shorter alternator belt on, I had to remove the fan pulley assembly (three bolts that mount to the front of the engine block). When I removed this assembly, I noticed two things: the thermostat (original) had failed and the pulley shaft...

Sorry, but I've already disassembled. Here are the before and after of the alternator bracket. My original alternator belt is 13"-14". I will re-install the alternator, adjust it to a position that allows the cultivator to clear it, and use a rope to measure length my new belt needs to...

When I purchased my Super C, it had already been converted to a 12V electrical system and had a 3-point hitch system added. I think the 3-point is homemade. This year I decided to add a cultivator. My Super C has the touch control hydraulic system and is not a 2-point fast hitch tractor. I...

What is a reasonable price for a Super C cultivator set to fit a touch control lift? There's a guy near ATL that lists on ebay. He usually lists the front and back sections separately. His price is ~$400 for the front and ~$300 for the back. This seems way high to me but I realize there are...

From tractordata, the C123 was put into the Super C, 200, 230, and 240 tractors. The bore and stroke was the same in all however, the compression went from a 6:1 in the SC to 7.x:1 in the 240. What did they do to get the extra compression? Domed pistons? My SC service manual is the one from...

Worn a good bit, but still has life left I think. I'm gonna replace them anyway. This shows the shin wear. I'll replace the shins as well.

This is a Ford Moldboard 2-12" plow. It has no part number placard, but I believe it is referred to as a 101 series. Take a look at the shins and shares. Do they need to be replaced?

I mentioned in another post that my SC would cut out a bit sometimes idling and under a load...pulling my 2-12" moldboard plow. Another symptom was the SC exhaust was very sooty. It spat black specks all over the hood especially when I first cranked it. The Zenith up-draft carburetor has only...

Thanks. I bought the tractor that way. I used it this past weekend to turn about a half acre and the 3pt worked fine. I was able to adjust my old Ford 2-12" plow pretty close.

I think the gauge is the original. I notice that when I first crank the tractor, it takes the gauge about 10 seconds before it moves from the peg. Then, it will rise to about the middle of the "O" in "OIL." If I run the tractor for an hour or so, plowing, discing, and the like, the pressure...

Yes that is what it is. Thanks! I'd never seen this gauge on a C before. I like the Steiner site because they show you where the part goes on the tractor. Here is a picture of my Super C.

This is the left side of the tractor. I've circled a sending unit and wire that has been cut. What is this and where did it go? I have an old I&T shop manual that mentions a "heat indicator sending unit" but it doesn't give any further description nor is it shown in the exploded view. If...

I see the wire running from the right-front of the engine back to the gauge. The wire doesn't appear to be broken. How do I determine if the sending unit or the gauge is the issue?

I just changed the drive belt on my 1995 GT275. The belt I replaced had chunks missing but it still pulled fine. Thought I'd post this to help you save a few sawbucks. The drive belt part # is M119713. It cost about $60 out-the-door from your local dealer. Here is how I did it: Belt...

I need to pull a 2-row plow, 7 ft. disc-harrow, 7 ft. cultivator, 6 ft. bush-hog, and 2-row planter. I have been looking at older MFs (the 150, 165, and newer 245). These all seem to be real solid tractors. The 150 is the harder model to find, maybe because it is so popular. My Dad always...

My Dad has a 684 that was orginally bought by the State of Mississippi. It's painted orange and has a heavy ROPS with canopy including limb risers. The clutch has started to slip the last few weeks. I've heard that this model tractor comes with two different clutches. How do I identify which...