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Sound level of the new exhaust seems roughly the same as the old one. The normal mechanical "dieseling" noise from the engine (which hasn't changed) sounds louder than the exhaust. I never really thought about that until trying to listen to the new exhaust. The LB1914's engine bay is just...

I'm assuming it will be an improvement since the old muffler was basically just a fat section of pipe with all the guts having rotted out. I got everything welded up this evening. They're no beauty-pagent welds, but they're solid and I did look down the outlet with my flashlight and there was...

Thanks! :)

Got the elbow cleaned up. Needle scaler worked great for getting crap out of the inside (soot + flaky scale). Used an angle grinder around the outside and a benchtop belt sander to square up the end. I cut the inlet pipe of the muffler to 2 inches long. Flared that on the anvil by holding...

Rolled over to Tractor Supply today and looked at what they had. Got a Stanley FO-3 for $50 and a 1.5" flapper for $12. Going to chop the inlet pipe (lower one with the bend) close to the bottom end of the muffler, clean up the elbow from the OEM and weld that there, and probably extend the...

In the market for a new muffler for a 1991 LB1914. OEM replacement is $400 and I'm not paying that. With the heat shield removed, the muffler is about 13 inches long by about 3.375 inches in diameter. Peering into the bottom end of the muffler (where the elbow that bolts to the exhaust...

AgristoreUSA now sells the cat 1 hooks in a kit (88057) or individually (88058): Cat. 1 Euro Style Quick Hitch Hook Kit The boxes for the hooks say ama Lo Snodo on them, which is this this facility in Italy: LO SNODO - AMA Balls are 1.732" OD [44 mm], 0.905" bore, and 1.375" wide. Here's...

'54 TO-30 with 4-cylinder gasser. Bunch of this stuff under the valve cover. Been trying to get out all I can with small spoon and scraper made by pounding the end of some round stock flat. Any tips for removing? Was thinking I'd turn to WD-40 soaked paper towels after exhausting the spoon...

Make something like this out of 1/4". Leave a few small drain notches where the socket meets the plate so water doesn't freeze in there. Or just slather everything with tar, undercoating, or elastomeric roof coating once installed.

Re-cleaned, rebuilt and tested injector 2 yesterday. Good pressure, spray good enough. Got everything back together this morning including new return fuel lines and clamps. The transparent polyurethane stuff is great - when I opened up the air bleed screw on the pump, I was able to watch the...

Got injector 3 re-cleaned and rebuilt. Spray is much better now. Pop pressure was around 2100 psi, which is on the higher end of the specified range. I made sure everything was well-aligned, especially where the butt end of the nozzle needle fits into the spring plate. Here's the assembly...

Tested injectors 2 and 3 tonight. 2 had good pop pressure (~2000 psi), but the spray was a little more "streamy" than injector 1, which was nice and misty. 3 was the worst of the bunch, initially popping at 2800 psi a few times and then popping a good bit lower than 2000 psi. The spray was...

Injector 2 hard line cleaned up: Closeup of hard line end:

Got a working injector tester and mounted it to a piece of thick pallet slat with 5/16-18 tee nuts and bolts. I bent the adapter line 90 degrees with a tubing bender so the injector would sit vertical. Wasn't sure what the return barbs on the injector would do so I stuck some aquarium tubing...

Forgot another measurement... topmost thread (for high pressure line fitting): M12x1.5 I took the frontmost injector apart to clean/check the inside and discovered that the top portion of the lowermost housing is ovaled (inside measures about 0.900" one way, 0.850" the other way). I had...

Looking at injectors for a '91 Kioti LB1914 with a 3-cyl 0.9-L TD950 diesel engine. Came across injectors for Kubota that look incredibly similar. Here's what I know about the Kioti injectors: hex sizes from top to bottom: 19, 24, and 27 mm marked with number: 2170 bottom thread size: M24x2...

Tried it out on the tractor yesterday and it works great. I'll have to lop off the handle and weld on a round one next time I have the welder fired up.

I really like the adjustability of the turnbuckle-style check chains on my LB1914, but found it hard to get the nut that jams against the center tube good and tight to lock the length adjustment (at least while trying to hold onto that little drawer-pull handle that's welded on there with one...

Looks handy! I would be careful relying on just the friction of the set screw to keep the inner telescoping member from sliding back into the outer. Most telescoping engine hoists have a cross-pin that goes through both members.

Agreed - those stamped terminals are pretty turdy. I'm sure they're cheap to make though. The worst is vehicles that have one of those with some kind of integrated fuse doo-dad on the positive terminal. Had to rig this up on my Frontier when its clamping mechanism self-desctructed. Flattened...

That sounds much better than digging with the shovel and chopping with the axe. I have a Nortrac middle buster plow. Their subsoiler (which they no longer sell) is pretty much identical except it has a subsoiler tooth instead of the plow on there. I actually have a chunk of steel set aside to...

Fixed the orientation of the lift rods today so that the yoke at the bottom of each faces slightly outwards. Lift arms sit straighter now. Thanks for catching that, guys. Turnbuckle check chains arrived yesterday. I would have put those on too, but one of them was missing the shackle on...

In the short circuit, the wire would probably melt / smoke and the battery could get hot from rapid discharge and possibly explode.

Pic of the redneckery. Boat is a project, like many of my other vehicles. ;) Hoops are attached to the 2x4s with two of these 2-hole straps at each end of the hoop:

Here's a drawing if anyone else wants to make one. The vertical box tubing is 2 x 2 x 1/4". I rounded the corners of the base plate and the top ends of the top link ears on mine.

I promptly put it to work removing a locust stump. I had previously burned the stump, but it still had a portion I didn't want to catch the mower blades on. The pictures make it look easy. Had to do a good amount of digging with shovel and trowel and chopping with the axe. Just when...

I've had the pieces sitting around for this and finally welded them up. Drawbar is a Tractor Supply Cat 1.

Yup, like the plastic version of one of these over-the-door racks: Single coat/hat hooks would be pretty cheap too (just screw to a scrap board):

Added this one yesterday: a hook for hanging 3-point pins while changing implements. It's just a piece of solid copper wire attached to the SMV sign bracket. Strong enough to hold the pins, but weak enough that it'll bend and not gore anyone if they caught an arm on it. Really need to make...

Lever and bracket are there on the rear of the engine, just no cable assembly running to the dash: 1) How useful is decomp? Should I bother pursuing the cable? 2) Any idea of part number / availability of the cable assembly? I looked through the entire engine and chassis sections of the...

Here are the currents I measured yesterday afternoon: front: 15 A initial, 8 A settled middle: 14.6 A initial, 7.6 A settled rear: 14.9 A initial, 7.8 A settled FYI - the little hex nuts that hold the wiring on are M4 x 0.7 (in case you happen to drop one and then can't find it). I did come...

Didn't see it in the service or owner's manual. Service manual had a line drawing of how to check it, but didn't give a value. P/N is E5205-65512 (replaced E5205-65511).

Anyone remember the movie Johhny Dangerously? Calling all cars, be on the lookout for Johnny Dangerously... and two accomplices in a black sedan. I repeat: in a black sedan. A black sedan, huh? We'll just see about that. I hope this works. It always does at home, Johnny. Come on, shelf...

Been tied up this weekend between being sick myself and then the Mrs. being sick. I did sneak outside for a little bit today and worked on a few of the items on my to-check list for this machine. None of the four tires had any pressures listed on the sidewall. The rears are Kumho 12.4-16 tube...

She's home now. Blade is a 6-footer. Looking forward to trying the scoop - never used one of those before. Stamped serial number tag on the left side of the trans has 9-digit number starting with "7", so I guess that makes it a 1991? Never heard back from MIE, so I might have to call on...

With my Ferguson TO-30 currently down (replacing rear axle seals is what started it all - then I got it inside to work on those and started getting into more quasi-restoration / freshening-up items from the dash forward), I was lamenting lack of the progress I was making on getting the driveway...

Here's how I held the brake rod while coating it. Left and right steel brackets from an old recliner mechanism and some 3/8" threaded rod and nuts. I radiused the ends of the brackets so they'd sit in the keyways on either side of the rod.

Here's a shot of the wrenchable top link. I replaced the teardrop locking tab with a 1 1/8-7 jam nut. I painted the ends while they were out and slathered up the threads really well with anti-seize before reassembling.

Thanks. I powdercoated the brake backing plate in August. Made a special hanger for it that looks like a waterski handle with a slight bow in the bar: Here are the top link tube (bored a big hex nut and TIG'ed it on so I could use a wrench on it) and the left side brake pedal (both...

Sometimes life gets in the way of hobbies. Still trying to get old Fergie back together. I got her moved indoors recently, which should greatly help that effort: I got the axle flange blasted and painted. Here's a shot of it just prior to paint: Jackstands make a nice set of tall vee...

Here's what the seal caps look like inside:

Getting there. Slowly. Got the axle bearing housing done today at lunch. Plugged the bore with two 4" tapered foam plugs (removed before cure) and also masked the OD of the projection on the opposite sides. Oiled up the bare metal this evening so it wouldn't rust. Daydreaming of nice...

Been tied up with some other responsibilities and distracted with some other projects, but have been making some slow progress on the rear end / brake parts: Need to get crackin' - I'm going through tractor withdrawl. Plus I've got a driveway to grade and four parking spots to level out. :)

Made the piece to hold the oddball ends this weekend and tried it out last night on the first of two springs like that: The piece of flat stock that I welded to the threaded rod was one I found while organizing some of my materials this weekend. Most of the length was 1 x 1/8" cross section...

Here's a mockup with one of the other springs: Just imagine the cardboard is metal and the masking tape is replaced by a good weld on each side. :)

Made a spring stretcher fixture today and coated the first of three brake springs: I wrapped the exposed threads with aluminum foil during coating and curing to keep them clean. The other two springs have kind of an odd-ball hook on one end, so I'm going to have to make a little strip with a...

How heavy was the backhoe? Did it have outriggers? Wonder if someone abused the rear end in the course of using my backhoe... My quest for info on the 3780 vs. 3795 cone hasn't produced much. I talked to Timken, NTN (who bought Bower), SKF, and even Agco. Speaking of the latter, I think...

I'll need a break from the snow and cold in order to get a chance to go snatch the other wheel off and pull the axle assembly. I'll probably finish getting this one all put back on there before I do that. It may be warm by then... To make a long story short on my search for a replacement...

Good point about the other side. No real good way to inspect the bearing without removing the shrink collar and pressing the shaft out. Guess I could chalk it up to preventative maintenance... Last night I clean-up machined the major OD and outboard end face of the casting. Today at lunch, I...

The casting has two convenient notches (180 degrees from each other) in the shoulder that the cup of the bearing seats against. Had the casting supported by the press plate on wooden blocks and used a scrap aluminum rod to tap the cup out with alternating hits in each of the notches.

Thanks! I'm glad it's apart and that the casting is intact. Even if I'd had to make the press plate by other means (torch/drill), it definitely would have been worth it. It was also handy for getting out the outer seal and the bearing cup. The 5/8" thick steel seemed adequate. The bearing...

This morning, I combed through part of the hoard and found a suitable length of 2x6 to make the support box from. Fabbed that with a little help from the miter saw and framing nailer. After that it was time to stick everything in the press. Which turned out to be just big enough - I couldn't...

Hopefully I won't bust more than what needs to be busted. :hammer: :) I put the studs back in the casting and put the plate on last night. Had to drop some 1/2-20 nuts onto the studs to act as really fat washers since the studs aren't fully threaded and there was still some solid portion...

After 2.5 days, the Omax tech and I (with a little help from co-workers moving the tank and setting the bridge) got the machine set up and running. Had some 5/8" plate (measured 0.660") sitting around that was previously covering a 2'x 2' hole in the floor (hole got filled in since it was in...

Here's a drawing that's actually to scale. Not all details are correct (the outer end of the bearing retainer casting is tapered, etc), but the important dimensions are correct. Brown blocks are a box made of 2x6 lumber (7.75" square inside) with a 3/4" plywood bottom (probably won't even...

shona - something like this? Axle shaft is gray, bearing retainer casting is red, that flange you were talking about is blue, and the brown pieces are wood.

Mike - yup, simple tools and lots of scrap 2x4s and plywood always seem to come in handy. Being a material hoarder has its benefits in that I often have random stuff sitting around that I can use for specialized purposes if I need it - and can find it... No love so far trying to pull the...

Success - I got it off with out damaging the shaft or the bearing! :D And I learned a new trick - will get to that in a minute. So first I removed what material from the collar I could on the mill. Then the portion that was shadowed by the shoulder of the casting got attacked with Dremel...

Got the sheet metal bearing shield done. Making stuff like this by hand is tedious. Well, at least the ID was... Coyote - I'm hoping thinning out just the one spot will get it to stretch or break enough to get it off - hopefully I'll get lucky. kid - I may resort to some sort of torch if...

Started making a sheet metal (0.030") bearing shield today at lunch. Figured it'd hold up better than the cardboard one, especially if I need to put the heat gun to the collar. Just need to finish up the ID with the die grinder.

Did some whittling on the collar last night. Made a cardboard shield for the bearing and plunged the collar with a 1/2" end mill. Since I didn't have a big t-slot cutter, I took the shaft out to the garage and attacked the collar some more with Dremel cutoff wheels (bearing shield still in...

I succeeded in making the basement smell like burnt grease tonight (hooray for good 3M respirators). Hung the shaft from one of the rafters just slightly off the floor. Ended up removing the studs from the casting since they were in the way. Hit the OD of the collar all around with the flat...

About 0.4" of the collar's length is clear. The other 0.3" is shadowed by the shoulder. When I heard shrink-fit collar, I wondered if you could remove it with heat as well. My first thought was the intimate contact between the ID of the collar and the OD of the shaft would just conduct heat...

Thanks, guys. I stuck the axle up on the mill last night just to see what I'd be able to do with it on there. Looks like I should be able to take a decent chunk out of the collar with a 1/2" end mill. I think I'm going to take Coyote machine's suggestion and make a shield to cover the...

I'm probably most concerned about that shrink collar. I've replaced bearings and seals on stuff before, but never messed with any shrink-fit stuff. It's actually the removal that seems more difficult. The collar measures about 2" ID x 2.75" OD x 0.7" long. Wouldn't be so bad to set the shaft...

Okay, so from what I can garner, the seal that goes in the outboard end of the trumpet is the inner axle seal (2" ID) (find #18). The outer seal (2.375" ID) (find #14) is on the other side of that bolt-on bearing retainer casting (find #15). Bearing is find #16 and find #17 is a shrink-fit...

Ferguson to 30 Farm Tractor | eBay

Got the brakes off, axle out, and seal removed. Tied a plastic bag over it to keep it clean and dry. Might throw a slathering of grease on it tomorrrow for a little extra protection (the metal, not the plastic bag). :)

Jack adapter worked great, as did blocking the front axle (used some pieces of 2x3 and tapped them in there with a hammer). Also lucked out and the flat head screws holding the drum on came out easily with the impact screwdriver. :thumbsup:

Or more importantly, is it okay to use them for interfacing with a jack adapter plate? Holes are about 1/2" diameter on a 3.375" x 6" pattern. Need to lift up the back of the tractor to take one of the wheels off and was thinking about making a jack adapter plate that would have some...

This weekend while washing the tractor, I noticed some oil / oily dirt inside the left rear wheel. I checked it again today and there was some more fresh oil there (see attached pic). Assuming it's a seal and will need to remove the wheel to get at it. Would also like to check the brakes...

Had a cracked manifold (rearmost exhaust port). In the process of replacing that, I decided to try out a vertical exhaust. The manifold I bought was an aftermarket one that has a triangular exhaust outlet flange instead of the original flare-and-clamp connection. The 180-degree elbow is P/N...

Was cleaning this thing up and in the process of reading the manual, I realized the square portion of the valve stem and the knob that goes on there are gone. So I put the end of the stem in the vise and unscrewed it from the casting. The seals are looking pretty crumbly. And obviously the...

Finally got this coated and put back together. Started by completely disassembling then blasting the two castings. Outgassed them in the oven and blasted again (some pretty stubborn black junk inside the upper casting after outgassing) before blowing clean, acetone rinsing, masking, and...

I took the gas tank off so I can change the manifold out. Was looking at the hold down bars that go on the ends of the gas tank and thought they would be a little nicer with radiused ends. Need to powdercoat next...

Anyone know where I can get just this seal? I got the basic carb kit and it comes with the one for the throttle shaft, but I need the one for the choke shaft too. Either that, or I need to find a place that sells tiny little lip seals. The one for the choke shaft looks like it would be 3/16"...

My first tractor. Found it locally on Craigslist. Couple pics attached from the Craigslist post. Previous owner delivered it for free and I already started using the blade to work on my driveway. :D